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Mark Z Offline OP
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Every so often, my rear brake starts groaning at almost-stopped speed, and if I let it go too long, the brake gets grabby. When I take it apart, I find a bit of oil on the brake shoes (it doesn't take much to cause a problem). After cleaning everything with brake cleaner, it's ok again, for a while.

I assume that the oil is coming from the chain. I use the best chain lube I can find (Chainwax), but I use it often, and it just occurred to me as I'm writing this that I haven't been wiping the chain off after lubricating.

Anyway, I just wanted to know if any other A65 owners have experienced this problem.


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Never had this issue, are you using sealed ball bearings and the seals are not sealing letting grease out which liquifies when hot.

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I have had a few A65's (still do) and never had this problem

What lube are you using for your chain?

If no lube, are you getting oil from the trap door seal or high gear seal?

Is the oil now impregnated into the liner material?

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Originally Posted by C.B.S
Is the oil now impregnated into the liner material?

Plus 1. If you have impregnated the shoes with oil and/or brake clean (which is for cleaning the metal surface, not the pad/shoe surface) then you’ve probably vastly reduced the life of the shoes and increased the chance of them breaking up.


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Originally Posted by Mark Z
I assume that the oil is coming from the chain. I use the best chain lube I can find (Chainwax)


Originally Posted by C.B.S
What lube are you using for your chain?

If no lube, are you getting oil from the trap door seal or high gear seal?


C.B.S.,

He says he is using Chainwax.


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I don't understand how it's getting inside the brake drum?

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Oil on the shoes could be coming from the solvents that have penetrated the linings themselves
Centrifugal force throws things away so chain grease is usually flung off the chain & away from the drum so all that could dribble in is what was on the hot chain when the bike has returned from a ride .
Drums generally get contaminated by lubricants from the cam bush or the hub bearings


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There is a gap between the edge of the brake backing plate and the drum, and the sprocket is right there. Nevertheless, as you say, centrifugal force would tend to keep the chain lube away from the drum rather than into it.

When I grease the brake cam and spindle, I'm careful to use only a smear. I may have to look at the bearings. Since this is a QD wheel, I believe the bearing in question would be the brake drum bearing. I've never wanted to get into that because it means drilling out 12 stakes (two on each nut).

Allan, is there something else I can use to clean the shoes besides brake clean?


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Originally Posted by Mark Z
Allan, is there something else I can use to clean the shoes besides brake clean?

Not as far as I know, just new shoes. though until you can find the root of this issue this isn't much help.


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Mark Z: What would you need to drill out to get at the brake drum bearing? Stakes?

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Originally Posted by Gordo in Comox
Mark Z: What would you need to drill out to get at the brake drum bearing? Stakes?

Gordo

Right, the six nuts that secure the brake drum bearing housing are staked, two stakes per nut. There are also three double lock-tab washers (each washer secures two nuts).

I understand this is something you really don't want coming apart, but Jeez Louise!


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The 6 bolts with the tab washers and centre punched nuts hold the drive spline in place. Nothing to do with the bearings


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Mark: As per Andy above the drive spline does not need to come off to push out the bearing. On the hub side of the drum there is a large circlip and a thin washer that covers the bearing. Once they are out the bearing can be pushed out the back of the drum.

I agree with you that taking off the drive spline is a lot of work.

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Originally Posted by Mark Z
Originally Posted by Gordo in Comox
Mark Z: What would you need to drill out to get at the brake drum bearing? Stakes?

Gordo

Right, the six nuts that secure the brake drum bearing housing are staked, two stakes per nut. There are also three double lock-tab washers (each washer secures two nuts).

I understand this is something you really don't want coming apart, but Jeez Louise!

Got a photo mark? There should be 3 sets of tab washer. Each tab washer covers 2 sets of nuts, then a small flat on each side for loss prevention.


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Originally Posted by Allan G
Originally Posted by Mark Z
Originally Posted by Gordo in Comox
Mark Z: What would you need to drill out to get at the brake drum bearing? Stakes?

Gordo

Right, the six nuts that secure the brake drum bearing housing are staked, two stakes per nut. There are also three double lock-tab washers (each washer secures two nuts).

I understand this is something you really don't want coming apart, but Jeez Louise!

Got a photo mark? There should be 3 sets of tab washer. Each tab washer covers 2 sets of nuts, then a small flat on each side for loss prevention.

I think we're saying the same thing Allan, about the locktab washers. Are you saying there are no stake punches?

I'm planning a trip to the annual All-British Meet in Lancaster, Mass. on Sept. 19 (riding in from Boston, about 1 hr.), and I'm thinking about not messing with the BSA until afterward. After the trip I'll pull the wheel and take a picture.


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Mark: The nuts that hold the spline onto the back of the brake drum are punched but the point is that they do not need to be touched to push the bearing out of the brake drum.

Gordo


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Originally Posted by Gordo in Comox
Mark: The nuts that hold the spline onto the back of the brake drum are punched but the point is that they do not need to be touched to push the bearing out of the brake drum.

Gordo


OH! I wish I had known that years ago! Ok then I will definitely deal with the bearing (this winter).


Mark Z

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