Britbike forum

Classic British SparesKlempf British PartsBaxter CycleBritBike Sponsor SteadfastCyclesThe Bonneville ShopLowbrow CustomsSRM EngineeringGirling Classic MotorcycleLucas Classic MotorcycleHepolite PistonsIndustrial tec supply

Upgrade your membership: Premium Membership Gold Membership


New Sponsor post
Cyber Monday Sale - 10% off at The Bonneville Shop
by The Bonneville Shop - 11/29/21 5:34 pm
New FAQ post
How to find my own threads?
by reverb - 11/20/21 3:55 pm
Manuals on DVD - Buy 4 for 3
All 4 DVD Manual
Member Spotlight
JD
JD
Maryland
Posts: 1,996
Joined: January 2006
ShoutChat
Comment Guidelines: Do post respectful and insightful comments. Don't flame, hate, spam.
Top Posters(30 Days)
NickL 79
Rohan 78
Top Likes Received (30 Days)
kevin 22
Newest Members
TomV, old ion limey, muzz750, Motorcycles and Art, SteveDee
11,925 Registered Users
Who's Online Now
8 members (triton thrasher, L.A.B., reverb, Norri Robertson, John Healy, bsalloyd, BeezaBryan, hunter h), 31 guests, and 17 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
BSA newbie here. REALLY happy to have found the Britbike community. Thanks for having me as a member! My first post:

Could not resist making an offer on an advertised Craigslist 68 basket case 650 Lightning. The seller, an obvious bike nut with a row of Ducatis and BMWs in his garage sold it to me for $550 with an anecdote that it was sitting in the basket for years and he got it from uncle with no time to mess with. He said there was no title and no serial number on the frame which almost killed the deal for me, and no idea how complete it is. No seat obviously. I thought the dual port head might be worth enough to save me and took it all home with a signed bill of sale. Also has a new front fork and nice Dunlops.

Turns out the engine is a 71, has an OIF with serial #83 2109 stamped on the bottom of the weldment fitting at the kickstand and GR 5 on the top. Also stamped on the frame on the weldment fitting directly opposite the kickstand is the same #83 2109 with GR 23 on the bottom. The tank is also from a third bike, I think.

Will post some pics when I figure out how to drag and drop or upload, no?

Anyhow, any thoughts on the OIF stamping would be highly appreciated.

Probably should put some personal notes in my membership folder. I'm x-Norton Atlas from 40 years ago; drove it across the USA. x- 65 Panhead, so I know how to chase oil leaks. Still have a 93 FXDL and a R1200RT. Last motor I built was a Porsche 911 which is still in the stable. Drive BMW and Mercedes cars, all wrenched by me.

Will buy forum staff a pint or three! Cheers!!!

BSA on eBay
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 730
Likes: 19
M
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
M
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 730
Likes: 19
Welcome to the forum. Unless you are a premium member you must use an outside service to host pictures. You can then post them here using the external URL.

I can't speak to the OIF VIN but I don't think the numbers you've found are it. I believe the numbers should be up near the steering head. Maybe this helps: http://classicenglishbikes.com/tech_file/bsa.html

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,728
Likes: 40
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,728
Likes: 40
Welcome! You did find the right place for queries related to a find as you describe. Lots of info and interested Folks here, Photos always help as you mentioned. If you look through the FAQ board at the top of the list, you can get some idea how it works.
At the bottom of a new post, find and click the Use Full Editor, the window should open with the choice to load from your photo library. If you are using iPad, PNGs will not load in my experience.
Sounds like you have already fixed on the Oil in Frame ID. Good luck!

Here’s one post in the FAQ on that subject. Be sure to only look at recent dated posts, as the Photo topic has been revised over time:
https://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/784154/number-of-photos-per-post#Post784154

Last edited by KC in S.B.; 08/23/21 1:54 pm.

Down to 1 BSA, 2 Triumphs, 1 '56 Chevy
1 '65 XLCH, Hernia Gift, on the way to Japan!
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,268
Likes: 191
A
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
A
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,268
Likes: 191
I have a 68 Lightning and a 71 "lightning" but with Thunderbolt head, soft tuned cam long stroke crank and bigger bore.

Both are fantastic bikes in their own way so you haven't lost out. I like the 68 for the cafe racer style (I fitted all the clubman spec parts to it) great fun for that. The OIF is a far better touring bike, especially if your carrying a pillion, much more room on that seat than the humped seat. Both years handle well, though the 71 OIF has the edge and more like a modern bike. Also if your building one from scratch the OIF is easier to assemble, fewer bits to fit and many parts modular (like the side panels). Also a lot of parts like those that form everything but the engine are identical to the Triumph T120/TR6 of the same years, so you can use that as an avenue for spares. You could also fit a Triumph T140 front end if you want better braking without having to do much more than fit the thing and plumb in the hydraulic system.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Thanks for the replies and the link to the serial numbers. Seems I may have a frame with no serial number. I will take another look.

Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 7,412
Likes: 183
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 7,412
Likes: 183
Originally Posted by Bustednukel
Turns out the engine is a 71, has an OIF with serial #83 2109 stamped on the bottom of the weldment fitting at the kickstand and GR 5 on the top. Also stamped on the frame on the weldment fitting directly opposite the kickstand is the same #83 2109 with GR 23 on the bottom.
The engine number should be stamped on the drive (left) side of the engine cases, at the bottom of the cylinder. If the engine is indeed a '71 the number will be alphanumeric, two letters followed by the numbers.
The number you have posted sounds like a casting number for a specific part.


Santa Claus wears a red suit, he's a Communist

72 T120V cafe project "Mr. Jim"
72 T150V "Wotan"
92 BMW K100rs "Gustav"
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,440
Likes: 157
Q
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Q
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,440
Likes: 157
examples of frame and engine stamps

68 lightning ( the B after the L is for 68 )
[Linked Image from i.ebayimg.com]
68 Firebird ( again the B is for 68 )
[Linked Image from i.ebayimg.com]
matching 68 Firebird frame ( on front left engine mount lug )
[Linked Image from i.ebayimg.com]
example of a 71 ( raised number pad .. G is month E is year )
[Linked Image from i.ebayimg.com]

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,728
Likes: 40
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,728
Likes: 40
Dry Frame number may also be stamped up on the head stock. Left side, at the fork support, on the sheet metal wrapped around the head stock. Fwd of tank.


Down to 1 BSA, 2 Triumphs, 1 '56 Chevy
1 '65 XLCH, Hernia Gift, on the way to Japan!
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 102
Likes: 24
50+ years experience
Offline
50+ years experience
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 102
Likes: 24
Hey Bustednukel, the serial number on the frame usually appears in the vicinity of the headstock on the oil in frames, possibly on the gusset, or the top or down tubes, even on the headstock itself. The 83 2109 number you see could be a production reference number, as the frame part number is 83-2802, as listed in the 1971 and 1972 parts books. BSA used casting numbers on various parts that were usually similar to the actual part numbers in the parts catalogues. As mentioned previously, the engine numbers are on the raised pad below the cylinder base on the drive-side crankcase. The 1971-72 A65 engines are easy to identify, as they had the Triumph-style clutch actuator, where the cable exited the outer timing cover vertically, as well as 3/8" UNF cylinder base studs. Aside from the A70 750cc engine, they are perhaps the most sought after A65 engines due to their refinements over the previous iterations. Good score!
-Dave


[Linked Image from thebonnevilleshop.com]
1 member likes this: gavin eisler
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,440
Likes: 157
Q
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Q
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,440
Likes: 157
a 68 and 71 engine looks about the same from 20 feet
a 68 and 71 frame are completely different and look it from 50 ft.

i dont thing the the frame numbers moved to the steering head till the OIF in 1971 .
[Linked Image from i.ebayimg.com]
image example shows a 72

if the numbers are missing , it's time to make up a story
like they probably "accidentally" got rubbed off .

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,971
Likes: 47
G
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,971
Likes: 47
First determine if the frame is Oil in Frame (OIF) 1971-1972 or not.

OIF frames have the engine oil supply in the frame tube. No removable oil tank.

1970 and older frames have the engine oil in a removable oil tank on the right side of the frame under the seat. The oil tank is sort of triangular in shape with its filler spout on the top and two oil line tubes on the bottom.

This info will get you out of the starting blocks on frame ID.

Then, if the frame is 1970 or older we can help you ID it further.


1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 Cyclone Competition Build
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Engine is a 71 A65L. Frame is OIF. Will likely hot tank the frame. If there are any more numbers beside the ones on the weldment casting near the kickstand, 83 2109, they will easily be seen. Plus all layers of paint and the tads of rust down low will be gone. I was thinking dove grey paint, but since its probably a mismatch on the serial numbers, and the tank is not a 71 then maybe prime and shoot with gloss black. Tank seems to be from a Spitfire or Firebird. Any dream of a pure Lightning seem dashed. BUT...it will still putt nicely when done.

I pulled the oil pump laying in the basket heap of parts and disassembled. Looks acceptable after cleaning and soaking. The engine will be disassembled, inspected and restored to factory tolerance.

Any thoughts on repo speedo and tach? $400 for nice rebuilt Smiths might be a little high for me, but sure desire to have the Made in U.K. script. Seems easy to get the wrong ones, original or rebuilt. 3 to 1 speedo? Want a 150 MPH and a 10K tach, but intend to avoid the wrong stuff. Need a matching rev thingy on the wheel to match any speedo.

Want to go with an electronic ignition but have the dual points laying in the basket in case I don't. Would change the tach selection if electronic. Any thoughts on electronic ignition?

I have the rectifier from 40 years ago from my Norton Atlas days. At least I think I have it. Maybe the zener diode too. Will have to come up with something. The ancient spark coils are there in the basket.

Thanks to all for the responses!!!

Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,268
Likes: 191
A
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
A
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,268
Likes: 191
What is “hot tank the frame”?


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,449
Likes: 193
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,449
Likes: 193
Radiator shops have hot tanks with an alkaline solution, good at removing paint, grease and rust.

Last edited by kommando; 08/29/21 8:33 am. Reason: spelling
1 member likes this: Allan G
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,440
Likes: 157
Q
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Q
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,440
Likes: 157
Originally Posted by Allan G
What is “hot tank the frame”?

Something along the lines of a big tank of caustic hot water
or other cleaning solution , that can be agitated
while the whole part in dipped
[Linked Image from s19529.pcdn.co]

1 member likes this: Allan G
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 730
Likes: 19
M
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
M
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 730
Likes: 19
Originally Posted by Bustednukel
Any thoughts on repo speedo and tach? $400 for nice rebuilt Smiths might be a little high for me, but sure desire to have the Made in U.K. script. Seems easy to get the wrong ones, original or rebuilt. 3 to 1 speedo? Want a 150 MPH and a 10K tach, but intend to avoid the wrong stuff. Need a matching rev thingy on the wheel to match any speedo.

Want to go with an electronic ignition but have the dual points laying in the basket in case I don't. Would change the tach selection if electronic. Any thoughts on electronic ignition?

I have the rectifier from 40 years ago from my Norton Atlas days. At least I think I have it. Maybe the zener diode too. Will have to come up with something. The ancient spark coils are there in the basket.

For the gauges, the cheap knockoffs seem good enough. Like you said, the only real difference is the font on the odometer (and the size, slightly). Personally I'd go with the cheap option, knowing it's likely to vibrate itself to pieces relatively soon anyways. Though, I have been tempted by the electronic versions if I could get past the prices: https://www.smiths-instruments.co.uk/motorcycles/classic

For electrics, I'm in the "upgrade where available" camp. I run the Wassell Vape EI and am happy with it so far (replaced the Boyer that failed after almost 25 trouble-free years). I also run a three-phase Sparx alternator with a solid state reg (now in place for 20 years). Get rid of points, rectifier, and zener. Maintenance- and trouble-free so far.

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,879
Likes: 193
G
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,879
Likes: 193
What MarcB said. I have the Smiths electronic tacho, spendy , but, very good, rock steady and accurate. If you add up the price of a cable . drive gearbox , and cheap instrument then the electronic one starts looking less spendy. Plus the stock tach cable is not a thing of beauty , I dont miss it.
ive used Boyer EI since 1979 with no regrets or failures,.


71 Devimead, John Hill, John Holmes A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Found smoking deals in India (not Indiana) on ebay for 150 MPH speedos with Made in England script. Found one tach from India with Made in UK script but it revs to 12k. When I get the engine back to factory spec I might rev to 5500 since it ought to blow just North of 6. But 12K, no way.

The Indian repo speedos that really look cool are the pre-unit Chronometric Smiths. The script is artful and fine with matching tach. Leaning that way. They look so cool and are so cheap.

Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,268
Likes: 191
A
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
A
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,268
Likes: 191
Originally Posted by Bustednukel
Found smoking deals in India (not Indiana) on ebay for 150 MPH speedos with Made in England script. Found one tach from India with Made in UK script but it revs to 12k. When I get the engine back to factory spec I might rev to 5500 since it ought to blow just North of 6. But 12K, no way.

The Indian repo speedos that really look cool are the pre-unit Chronometric Smiths. The script is artful and fine with matching tach. Leaning that way. They look so cool and are so cheap.

Just ensure that the cabling position is where it should be and the ratios are correct as original chronometrics wouldn’t fit in the A65
Binicals.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Alan G, yes, ran right into the cable nut size being larger on a chronometric.
Also, the ratio....Looks like the ratio on the wheel bevel gear speed transmitter is 1.25 to 1 for 1971 and later, right? And the ratio for the speedo itself is...2:1, right? Just guessing cause I don't really know the speedo ratio for a 71 Lightning. The tach would have to be right too.

I reassembled my oil pump after cleaning and inspecting. Felt OK about not using a gasket or sealant assembling the worm drive section to the oil gear section. There was no gasket or sealant when disassembled and the workshop manual makes no mention of gasket or sealant. I was tempted to put a little dab of Hylomar on the end plate but could see it would likely squeeze into the gears. Of course there is a gasket when the pump is mounted to the case.

Spent about 2 hours cleaning the pistons and cylinders to verify if they can be reused. Not knowing which piston was in which bore added some thought. Turned out one piston eyeballs in spec, but the other has a drag on the very bottom of its skirt, No sense snap gaging the bore and miking with one piston dragging no mater which way you orient it in either bore. So, will need a machinist to bore to the next oversize.

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,703
Likes: 81
M
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
M
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,703
Likes: 81
I don't know about PA, but in New York you can register a bike by the engine serial number. The inspectors don't care; in fact I don't think I've ever had an inspector look at the serial number.

You're fortunate if that engine has a cast iron oil pump. If it works, well, you know the saying... In fact I would not have even taken it apart, but as long as it still turns smoothly, you're ok. No, no gaskets between the pieces! That would result in excess clearance around the gears and reduce oil pressure.

Tachometer drive is 3:1 on all A65s.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,449
Likes: 193
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,449
Likes: 193
Quote
Looks like the ratio on the wheel bevel gear speed transmitter is 1.25 to 1 for 1971 and later, right? And the ratio for the speedo itself is...2:1, right?

Speedo's do not have ratios, only Tacho's do. What Smiths MPH magnetic speedos have is the number of revs per mile marked in the small numbers at the bottom of the dial, 1000 and 1600 are the 2 main variants, as the rear wheel normally turns 800 revs per mile then you need to match the rear wheel gearbox to the speedo revs per mile. 1000 needs a 1.25 ratio gearbox eg 800x1.25=1000, 1600 needs a 2:1 ratio gearbox eg 800x2=1600.

So look at the small numbers at the bottom of the dial and match this to the rear wheel gearbox ratio.

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,728
Likes: 40
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,728
Likes: 40
We ever going to see this thing?


Down to 1 BSA, 2 Triumphs, 1 '56 Chevy
1 '65 XLCH, Hernia Gift, on the way to Japan!
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
All you guys are AWSOME!!!

Mark Z, I like your idea to just try rolling thru with engine serial number only; no frame serial number. Also, thanks for confirming no gasket on body sections of oil pump. Its an aluminum pump although the workshop manual says its cast iron. It was dead and dry in the basket with the mouse nest. Good to go now. Copy 3 to 1 drive on the tach. Will probably go with electronic ignition, but have the dual points stuff in the basket

Kommando, thanks for the guidance on the speedo. I was scratching my head looking at the front axle thinking no place for a speedo drive. Oh, its on the rear!!! Also, was wondering why the cable in the basket was like 6' long.

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,703
Likes: 81
M
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
M
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,703
Likes: 81
Some '71s had the cast iron oil pump and some didn't; I guess they changed mid-season. So yours could be OE. The older pumps are zinc BTW.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 102
Likes: 24
50+ years experience
Offline
50+ years experience
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 102
Likes: 24
If the oil pump was disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled without any hint of drag on the gears (when turning the spindle by hand), you got lucky! Every one I ever tried to refresh and inspect always had a little drag after putting back together. I learned after the first couple of A65 engine overhauls that if the pump turns smoothly and the drive gear is not knackered, flush it with solvent and leave it together. The gears wear in a pattern, and essentially are "married" together. When the pump is reassembled, if the gears are not precisely fitted as they were originally, the result is a slight drag. I agonized about this on my first BSA engine overhaul, a 1970 A50, but just refitted the pump and never had an issue with it during the year I rode it as a daily rider, nor did the guy that bought it from me. The reproduction black-face gauges are available from us for around $150 for the pair.They are, by the way, a bit taller than the original Smith's instruments, so they stand a little proud in the binnacles.
-Dave


[Linked Image from thebonnevilleshop.com]
1 member likes this: gavin eisler
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,703
Likes: 81
M
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
M
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,703
Likes: 81
Originally Posted by The Bonneville Shop
If the oil pump was disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled without any hint of drag on the gears (when turning the spindle by hand), you got lucky! Every one I ever tried to refresh and inspect always had a little drag after putting back together. I learned after the first couple of A65 engine overhauls that if the pump turns smoothly and the drive gear is not knackered, flush it with solvent and leave it together. The gears wear in a pattern, and essentially are "married" together. When the pump is reassembled, if the gears are not precisely fitted as they were originally, the result is a slight drag. I agonized about this on my first BSA engine overhaul, a 1970 A50, but just refitted the pump and never had an issue with it during the year I rode it as a daily rider, nor did the guy that bought it from me. -Dave

Yes Dave, I kind of hinted around at the same thing, but I didn't want to give Busted heartburn. I had the same experience with the first oil pump I took apart. It never turned again, after four or five attempts at reassembly, and I then had to toss it in the junk bin and replace it. (I still have that oil pump, circa 1973!)


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
1 member likes this: The Bonneville Shop
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,268
Likes: 191
A
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
A
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,268
Likes: 191
I’ve found assembling them on a sheet of glass helps. The later pumps with dowels shouldn’t be so much an issue but if you can push all 3 components flat against a glass plate then carefully torque the bolts up, I’ve found I’ve not had an issue. I haven’t had to flatten any end plates as yet so I’m not sure how much drag if any the gears will have against the end plate.

I’m a big advocate of sonic baths for cleaning engine components, I’ve even returned AAU units that were jammed tight into good serviceable condition with just the sonic bath.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Well, Dave, yes there was a drag on the pump when disassembled, inspected and cleaned. Thought maybe might have to get another. Disassembled again and flipped over one of the gears, reassembled and still drag, Disassembled a third time and flipped the last gear that could be flipped, still drag. Disassembled a 4th time and rotated one gear 180 degrees and voila, spins free.

Might still buy a new pump. The worm gear has a fork on the end to drive the tach and one fork is missing. Thought it might have been original to have only one fork. Cleaned up lots of bits and bolts and found what might be the piece that exits the gearcase to drive the tach; it seems long but has a configuration that seems like it will fit. My basket bike A65L is stored in a residential basement about 10 miles away. Have also happily discovered the cam gear nut which may be the last part missing for both the drive side and the timing side internals besides washers. I have yet to split the cases; the end thrust on the crank feels good. The bottom of the case is missing the screen mesh cover; but, am hoping for good news once the cases are split. Found my valve spring compressor in the very last place I could remember where it was, and will disassemble the head which is on the bench. Found a stud in the basket with pulled aluminum and it matches the striped hole ln the head for the valve cover. I still have the helicoil kit I bought in Denver to fix a similar situation on a Norton Atlas I drove cross country in the 70s. Might work on the BSA. If not then a weld shop can fill the hole and I'll tap it. So, back to the oil pump worm gear and its lack of a proper fork....might find a proper worm gear with the right fork. But if the basket case motor turns into a no rev in anger type, then the tach might just be plated up and forgotten as I granny shift around town and stay off the interstate. Found a used trans countershaft bearing in the basket and wondered what it was. Figured it out: The trans is in the case and rotates fine but the nuts are missing to hold it into the case. Need a slim jaw puller to get the clutch off the input shaft and key. Hopefully a new counter shaft bearing is in there and all the rest of the trans is 100%. Hope all the drive and timing and crank bushes are good too. LOL.!!!

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,449
Likes: 193
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,449
Likes: 193
You want a certain amount of drag to show the clearances are correct, the test on a Norton pump is to put a spanner on the nut and then at 2 inches away from the nut a single finger on the spanner should be able to turn the pump. The drag should be consistent through 360 degrees.

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Clutch centering hub is stuck on the main shaft. Did not really need a slim jaw puller, but a normal little 2 jaw puller fit right on it. Put enough tension on the hub to pop it but no go. Rechecked the workshop manual and not much is said if anything. Thought maybe a 3 jaw puller might do better. Saw a used main shaft on ebay and noted that the hub is keyed to a taper near the end of the shaft. Will pretension the hub with the 2 jaw puller and add some heat with a heat gun or a torch if need be. Should pop off. Probably been on there for 50 years.

Got the rear wheel off and the brake shoes look almost new. Gave a tug on the speedo angle drive but attached to the hub in a way as yet undiscovered. Also, got the front fork off and disassembled.

Tried to post a pic, but...

Since this bike is OIF hot tanking the frame might be a bad idea. Any recommendations for a chemical brush on stripper for paint and rust?

The bolt for the swing arm is also tight. tried tapping with a wooden dowel. Guess I need a bigger hammer and a steel flat nose punch.

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,703
Likes: 81
M
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
M
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,703
Likes: 81
Another motivation to get a new oil pump is that a worn pump will cause the engine to wet-sump on sitting. Both of my A65s had this problem until I scrounged a cast iron pump from a '71 for my bitsa (and I had tried the other remedies like replacing the check ball and spring and lapping the seat). For the first time in 45 years, my bitsa does not wet-sump... at all, even after sitting all winter.

Cast iron BSA pumps being hard to come by, you may have to spring for an SRM pump.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,879
Likes: 193
G
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,879
Likes: 193
The main spine of the frame is pretty easy to clean internally with a bottle brush and pressure washer. Externally i used stripper and wire wheels for most of it.

The seized swinging arm spindle/ bolt. Do not use a steel punch you will bell out the end, if you must hit it,I certainly had to, use a brass intermediate sacrificial item. mine was so seized, it had never been lubricated, that it took a 10 lb hammer and lots of heating to break it free.

If it has greaze nipples/ zerks fitted, use them , if it doesnt have them, fit before going any further and get as much grease in there as you can.

Use an air hammer / socket wrench/ windy gun on the bolt end to try and get it turning, if the rubber seals are still present cut them off before attempting to use heat. In my case the steel dollies had seized to the bushes, instead of the dollies/ bobbins gliding against the bushes, the dollies rubbed steps into the spindle rendering it FUBAR. new spindles are still out there and not too expensive, beware the " rhymes with fossils" steel dollies, my replacements were oversize.If you can get NOS dollies, pay the extra.
If you fit new bushes, you may need a 1 inch reamer , the manual says no, but I certainly did, wouldnt go otherwize. given how medieval the extraction was , possibly / probably there was some co-lateral distortion..

I ended up replacing everything except the swinging arm. The new bushes were fitted with a stepped pusher and some long bits of screwed rod.
That was forty years ago, they have not worm much since then with regular greasing, at least once a year.
best of luck.
if you have the wheel spindle removed the speedo drive will pull right off the hub, a few love taps from a soft faced hammer should jar it free, it may be hung up on the drive tangs.


71 Devimead, John Hill, John Holmes A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Got the swing arm bolt out. Was careful not to mushroom the bolt. Got the speedo drive out with a nudge.

The drive side crank nut was laying in the basket. It has no raised circular portion past the flats and is unlike the input shaft nut which has a raised potion past the flats. Likely not an original crank nut?

My OIF A65L basket case was a jigsaw puzzle with front end and swing arm attached. Case stripped but un-split. Somwhat of a research project. Thanks all for your input!

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,703
Likes: 81
M
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
M
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,703
Likes: 81
Originally Posted by Bustednukel
Got the swing arm bolt out. Was careful not to mushroom the bolt. Got the speedo drive out with a nudge.

The drive side crank nut was laying in the basket. It has no raised circular portion past the flats and is unlike the input shaft nut which has a raised potion past the flats. Likely not an original crank nut?

My OIF A65L basket case was a jigsaw puzzle with front end and swing arm attached. Case stripped but un-split. Somwhat of a research project. Thanks all for your input!

Only the center clutch nut is "shouldered" (raised part past the flats). If the nut in question threads onto the crank, then it's probably the crank nut.

Did we talk about getting a factory spares manual or finding one online? Looks like you're going to need one...


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Thanks, Mark Z, for letting me know about a shoulder not existing on the drive side crank nut. Did get a service manual and found a parts list at BaxterCycle.com , WOW, what a resource!!!

Yikes! Being a BSA nimrod on da' loose with a basket OIF A65, I did what a nimrod does: saw what looks like the right stuff on CL and could not resist buying, same as how I got the basket case. To be fair to myself seasoned folks may have bought this item and that is an A65 head that is rebuilt with new oversize intake valves, new exhausts, new seats (!). The intakes are about .1" oversize and as big as you can stuff an oversize valve in since the spark plug hole is right there. I think the guides, springs and keepers are probably new too; can't imagine they are not but will verify by disassembly. Anyhow, on CL its easy to negotiate, and was thrilled to have a rebuilt head since my basket case head has one pulled stud for the valve cover. As I set the rebuilt head on the bench, a little panic hit me when I recalled that head gaskets changed dimensions at some point during A65 production. So, I slid the new head onto the jug; yup, snug but goes. OK, so put some more studs on and no go on the front 2 center studs; holes are too small. Plus the valve cover studs are smaller. So, as far as my basket rebuild, the rebuilt head is a storage item, clean enough for my sock drawer. Maybe another member might want it; trade for something I need or think I need. HaHa! Rebuilt head is a 68-701. Basket head is a 71-2202

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Day 2 of ownership back in July

[img]http://https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/51437493233/in/dateposted-public/[/img]

Hope the pic shows up. Joined Flickr today so I can post pics. NOPE

Try this:
My basket lightning

That didn't work either.

Guess I'll have to read the instructions.

Last edited by Bustednukel; 09/08/21 8:47 pm. Reason: Messin' with pics
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 208
N
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
N
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 208
The early heads had 5/16 rear bolt holes and 1/4 rocker cover studs.
Just get an early rocker cover and drill out the rear bolt holes to 10mm if you want to use that head.

Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,186
Likes: 122
D
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
D
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,186
Likes: 122
A '71 twin carb head is 71-2309 (71-2307 for single carb).
He said front two centre stud holes were too small?

Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 208
N
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
N
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 208
Must be looking at the head backwards.........

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Yes, had it backwards. Its the rear 2 that are smaller.

Apparently, the casting numbers are not the same as the part number. My numbers on the heads were casting numbers.

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by Bustednukel
Day 2 of ownership back in July

[img]http://https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/51437493233/in/dateposted-public/[/img]

Hope the pic shows up. Joined Flickr today so I can post pics. NOPE

Try this:
My basket lightning

That didn't work either.

Guess I'll have to read the instructions.

One more whirl on posting a pic:

[img]http://https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/51437493233/in/photostream/[/img]
Another no go. I give up.

Last edited by Bustednukel; 09/09/21 11:32 pm.
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Figured it out: Copy and paste to a command line... BAM there she blows!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/51437493233/in/photostream/

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
The clutch centering hub is still stuck on the input shaft. I don't feel too bad about it being stuck there. Especially since a fellow named Angus D. Campbell has a video on Youtube about the primary side of an A70 and has a similar experience as myself, a total BSA nimrod. My case primary side was disassembled in a basket along with the detritus of decades of sitting in some warehouse, Just the clutch hub was still on the primary side. Campbell's video at one point shows doubts that he has the right methodology to pull the clutch hub as a complete assembly. and shines a light to find if machine threads are on the inside circumference of the lip of the hub where a special puller can be attached. I checked my hub this morning and of course the same threads are there, about 2 of them. Campbell pretensions the special puller, cautions there are only a few threads and whacks the puller end with a large hammer a couple times and the hub pops. Campbell's videos are fantastic!

Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,186
Likes: 122
D
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
D
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,186
Likes: 122
You need a link image to an file. Left mouse click on the picture in flickr, in the lower right there is a down arrow (download this photo). Click on that. When the picture comes up, select a size (medium is good), then right mouse click on the picture. A menu comes up. The forth line down is "Copy image link". Selelct that then in Britbike use the picture icon. It will bring up a window. Paste the image link there.
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

1 member likes this: Bustednukel
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,186
Likes: 122
D
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
D
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,186
Likes: 122
You do need the proper puller for the clutch hub.
The outer timing cover looks to be earlier than '71. A '71 would have a 1/4" screw just below the shift shaft.
Also, by posting the way you did allows anyone to see any other pictures that you have in your photostream.

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 783
Likes: 14
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 783
Likes: 14
You could become a premium member. Pay the dues and easily post your pictures
Good luck with your project. Your in right the place for lots of help

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
DMadigan, givin' it a whirl:

[Linked Image]

Another no go; I think I did that once already. Will just indicate a copy to command line on my links until I upgrade.

Only opened flickr account to post BSA pics.. Also, I think flickr allows public and private access levels.

Liked your head shot! Nice threads! Had an Atlas in the 70's and stripped 'em. Machinst/welder redid the Atlas and made them beautiful again.

Will take a closer look at the maybe not a 71 cover.

Thanks, All!

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

Thanks DMadigan. Got it!!! I figured if you could do it, I should be able to too!

This pic is the 68 head I picked up on CL with the oversize intake and new seats. Just realized that the exhausts are set back in the seats, bad rice! The guides are steel; never seen steel guides.

Am heading to the BSA Club of New England show next Sunday the 19th. Show is advertised on Britbike. Will tote the 68 head with me and hope to swap for 71 stuff I need like bars, front fender, and seat. Maybe a 71 72 tank.

Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,268
Likes: 191
A
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
A
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,268
Likes: 191
All the guides were iron until the oif models. Nothing wrong with iron guides, they work quite well. You also seldom find an issue with them. Most bronze guides I’ve dealt with have either been replaced or K-lined.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Happy to have the clutch hub off! Progress!! I went ahead and used a my 2 jaw puller with a heat gun and hit it with a hammer as in Campbells video only not as hard. Popped right off, but had a panic when I looked for the shaft and it was gone; thought the shaft must have broke, but no the trans popped out to the timing side. The trans nuts were all off from when i got it.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]



[img]https://[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51449386426_63f80ac2e3_c_d.jpg[/img]


[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,268
Likes: 191
A
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
A
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,268
Likes: 191
The main shaft looks like it’s been running hot, either running dry/insufficient oil or too thick of oil maybe.

You’ll likely want to change that clutch hub too as there is limited chance it will be perfectly flat since you’ve had the 2-jaw puller on there.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,186
Likes: 122
D
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
D
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,186
Likes: 122
Possibly his high gear bush does not have the spiral oil groove?

Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 208
N
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
N
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 208
It's more likely that the clutch has spun on the shaft at some time looking
at the keyway and the taper.
Nice round dogs on mainshaft 2nd too.

1 member likes this: Allan G
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Clutch hub is still flat. Picked up a gearset at the BSA Club of New England show last Sunday for $40 (WOW!). I think my gearset is fine, not excellent, but fine. Will probably not use the $40 set, but I could.
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

Picked up some other goodies at the show.
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

100 foot of nickel plate chain with 6 links for $80

The front fender looked sorta close to what I thought I needed so $30 and home it came.

The grab bar ran riot through my mind at $5. God only knows what it will fit?!

The vendor who had the T140 mufflers new in the box was firm at $50 so i gave it to him.
The other mufflers were unknown by the vendor and have a little bend at their start, but i could not say no at $30.

The other bits were $5 and under. The Hawaii inspection sticker will match my Hawaii plate back when I ran a panhead on Oahu. Just have to figure how to avoid 5Oh. (LOL)

Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 208
N
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
N
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 208
Pick the best of the sliding gears and fit them so the best of the dogs is in the driven direction.
Make sure you shim the layshaft from the driveside for minimum endfloat .
Use the best of the selector forks and the better cam plate, the one with the least clearance for the forks.
Then pick the best quadrant of the two.
Use some fine grinding paste and lap the clutch centre onto the mainshaft, ensure the keyways are allowing the key to seat.
Just my 2c.

Last edited by NickL; 09/22/21 4:49 am.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,034
Likes: 123
B
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,034
Likes: 123
While the set is out weld a bridge across the thin section of the cam plate .
Some where lurking around here is a copy of the BSA service notice covering the repair .


Bike Beesa
Trevor
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,268
Likes: 191
A
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
A
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 8,268
Likes: 191
The 68 cam plates have it, the ones that followed don’t need it. But if you fit the bridge or a 68 style cam plate into an oif then you’ll also need to grind away some of the casting inside the box To clear the bridge


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Split the case. Progress!!! The good, the bad, and the ugly.

Crank and race:

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

Iffy cam (not Isky); breather just farts at the drive sprocket; why didn't I think of that!

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

Case front mount to frame:

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]


[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

Since the frame is not stamped with a serial number, knew I was not involved with a concourse bike. The tig weld adds character to putt to the IGA and pick up groceries.

The photos were taken as the bolts came off. No light on any of this for decades, I'm thinking.

Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 208
N
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
N
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 208
Originally Posted by Allan G
The 68 cam plates have it, the ones that followed don’t need it. But if you fit the bridge or a 68 style cam plate into an oif then you’ll also need to grind away some of the casting inside the box To clear the bridge

You should check any of the camplates for full clear movement, later plates in early engines are also prone
to fouling. The best places to weld bridges is where 2nd and 3rd are selected, but only really required for racing.
The beezer 'fix' was rubbish, too thin and bent should be a solid strap just filed out enough to clear the fork roller.

1 member likes this: Allan G
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,770
Likes: 55
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,770
Likes: 55
Archeology.

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
Would like to submit my Britbike archeological doctoral thesis in brief.
Here goes:
Basket case BSA purchased with seller stating "Been in the family warehouse for decades, dissembled, laying in a corner. Its a 68 with no numbers on the frame". Newbie buyer hauls BSA basket home and dreams he has hit paydirt after seeing a cherry 68 Lightning original paint with even original air in the tires for sale online for eight grand and after not even knowing anything about BSA except saw one in college with air cooled front brake. Signs up at Britbike and quickly learns the engine is a 71; the frame is OIF with no serial number. Cases for engine were unsplit, with engine stripped otherwise and only clutch centering hub still attached to mainshaft and even the trans cluster nuts removed from the opposite side. A special tool being required to pull the clutch centering hub, thus relegated to the warehouse corner decades ago. Buyer splits case and finds tig weld on internal part of case where nose would mount to front frame downlegs. So, no frame serial number, damage to front case nose therefore ipso facto.... A dealer was contacted in the early 1970's to get a new frame which was shipped transatlantic by BSA with no serial stamping on the frame. The dealer also was going out of business, as was the supplier, BSA. The dealer was supposed to stamp the new frame, but did not since he was paid already by deposit to order it. Please send my Britbike Phisophiae Doctor certificate aka Bhd if upon review found to be good to go, and with all due humility and dignity submitted. Also, can I borrow a set of stamps with reasonably accurate script? HaHa

Check out how nice fine grit emery cleaned up my cam!
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
B
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
B
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
I love my basket!

I'm thinking painting all Ivory, frame tank side covers swingarm. Only color to be shooting star inset on tank and Union Jack crossed with Stars n' Stripes on side covers. Maybe a lightning bolt, too. Paint target: sharp bitchin' Brit!

First sorting back in July:
[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,879
Likes: 193
G
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,879
Likes: 193
On an OIF the frame number is stamped in a vertical pattern on the headstock left hand side, its faint at best, try scuff sanding that area.

The engine case damage was probably caused by a con rod letting go, this usually happens because the timing side crank bush wears and oil pressure to the big ends is reduced , this usually happens because dirty oil promotes rapid wear. years ago a firm called devimead engineered this flaw out by converting cranks to end feed with a combi ball/ needle roller bearing, in the USA there are folks that can still do this Ed Valiket for one. Others swear that the bush is fine so long as its correctly fitted and decent oil filtration is installed, a paper cartridge filter unit on the return line.

The tank propped on the frame pic is from an earlier dry frame model, the tunnel will not clear the OIF spine correctly ,because later triumph twins used basically the same running gear you have some better option for tanks.


71 Devimead, John Hill, John Holmes A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3

Moderated by  Allan G, Jon W. Whitley 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Job CycleBritish Cycle SupplyMorries PlaceKlempf British PartsPodtronicVintage MagazineBSA Unit SinglesBritBike SponsorBritish Tools & FastenersBritBike SponsorBritBike Sponsor






© 1996-2021 britbike.com
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5