You're labouring with some misapprehensions that should've been clarified, should make the wiring simpler to understand:-
where i mounted the positive battery connection years ago, whether i had headlights or stop lights
. Assuming the rectifier you're wanting at present (different recommendation further down) is the circular(-ish) plates one pictured by Quinten, whether or not it has a spade terminal on the central bolt is irrelevant; the rectifier "grounds" through that central bolt to the frame.
. Cycle and engine parts are by-and-large metal so - at least in theory - if you connect a wire between the battery
positive terminal and any
cycle or engine part, all cycle or engine parts are "positive ground". So it's irrelevant what's connected either to a spade terminal on a standard rectifier's central bolt or to a ring terminal under the nut that secures the rectifier's central bolt to the frame.
before i strap the electrical harness down
. However, in practice, cycle or engine parts are either painted or corrode, neither conducts electricity, so Lucas
didn't rely on them as electrical conductors:-
.. If the harness is either original '69 Lucas
or modern pattern copy, it should contain a network of Red wires connecting most electrical components to battery
+ve (the notable exception before about mid-'71 was the rear lamp
. No wiring diagram shows this Red wires' network but it was present in one form or another in every original Lucas
.. If you've built the harness yourself, it also has a (Red?) wires' network connecting components to battery
another section of the manuals i,m trying to use say that the 4th spade as above is used for the capacitance ignition system.
. As I say, nothing special about any terminal on a rectifier's central bolt, except mounting the rectifier connects it to one of the battery
terminals (+ve as standard '69).
. A capacitor used to back-up or replace the battery
is simply connected across or in place of the battery
.. it's -ve terminal is connected to the Brown/Blue wire, which is connected to battery
.. it's +ve terminal is connected to a Red wire, which is connected to battery
my fuse is connected between the negative battery terminal to a brown blue wire in to main frame harness,
Standard from about '68 on. Regrettably, it can't stop two important things:-
. Short-circuit caused by any contact between the battery
-ve terminal itself and another metal cycle or engine part. Past posts in this and other Britbike internet forums indicate this contact can be by a loose tool, attempting to charge the battery
on the bike (open seat falls on the battery
-charger connections), seat pan bending or breaking.
. Short-circuit anywhere on the bike when the engine's running; fuse will blow but rectifier and Zener connected in standard positions (between fuse and ignition switch), the alternator can keep the engine running.
. Bike without an electric-start (any '69 Brit), if you reduce the number of wires actually connected to the battery
's +ve terminal to one and put the main or single fuse in this wire, it will at least protect against the first short-circuit type.
To prevent the second type of short-circuit and - more importantly?
- save you a great deal of money, don't buy another standard rectifier ...
. I just looked online, the standard rectifier Quinten pictured is stunningly-expensive;
more than the cost of even an expensive combined regulator/rectifier like a Podtronics
. If your bike needs a rectifier, it must also have a Zener diode (in the finned heatsink under the fork yoke?). Bear in mind if that goes twang, you've negated your investment in the new rectifier unless you pay more money for a new Zener, the current new ones have a piss-poor rep.
. Otoh, paying either similar money to a new rectifier for a Podtronics
reg./rec., or about one-third for a reliable pattern Honda
reg./rec. from Ebay, you'll replace both rectifier and Zener diode and you can prevent the second type of short-circuit mentioned above.
. And you won't need to:-
order colored wires on the 3 rectifier spades
... reg./rec. comes with its own AC and DC wires.
wiring connections i installed 40 years ago
Did you use bullets and snap connectors then? If yes, it's wise to have replaced the snap connectors, because the connectors' internal steel sleeves can split and then make only intermittent contact between the bullets.
Hth but post again if you want greater detail on any of the suggestions.