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bsalloyd
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Inquiring for some more knowledge of how to reassemble my TLS front wheel bearings. I been possibly been reading too much but still not able to picture how to properly reinstall new double sealed bearings. As i,m prefering to use cold spray to shrink the OD of the bearing and tap them in with a 1 1/4 socket I would like to do it right the first time. What I have been reading is to start with the l/h side and tap in the bearing 5/16th past the circlip groove, then install the dust cap and circlip then tap again from the r/h side to move the bearing up against the circlip. I see that point as you would want to have the bearing as further outside a possible, but do i really need this grease retainer also, As i really see no spaceing issues on the l/h side or reason if useing double sealed bearings.

How ever on the R/H side the inner hub has a milled stop incorporated which is makeing me think there needs to have proper axial spaceing with either sealed or unsealed bearings that it was designed to have useing p/n 37-3337 bearing support ring, That I guess will provide correct clearance for moving parts once the r/h side bearing lock ring 42-6335 is jamming all these part down.

Keeping in mind the axle bearing journals on each side are free floating ( no interference fit at least on mine ) with the new bearings both sides, and in mind the inner bearing race needs to stay locked to allow the the wheel hub with interference fit outer bearing to rotate around on its ball bearings, ( at least in my mind they should) I,m not seeing how these bearings are working properly, Maybe on the r/h side once the retainer collar is tightened down or the brake hub nut with help of the flange incorporated on the axle. And if so Which is the correct orientation for this 37-3337?, Does the flat go to the inner r/h bearing or the step/ recess end.

No idea whats captureing the l/h side inner race, maybe my axle journal has on this side lost its interference fit

dscn1298_f.jpg dscn1298_f.jpg
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When you put the brakeplate on and tighten the retaining nut the shaft is pulled against its datums and locked to the fixed bearing, until that nut torque is applied then the shaft can float even if you need to apply a rubber hammer due to an interference fit. The bearings should be a light interference fit on the shaft but a sliding fit is acceptable, if you don't have that and there is play between shaft and bearing then either get the shaft copper plated or a new shaft.

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Thanks for your reply Kommando, Appreciate the help, Yes tunnel vision got in the way and forgot to consider the brakeplate retaining nut being torqued down. The bearings have a tight slide on both ends of the axle so think my axle is ok.

I,m thinking from what i,ve read that the l/h grease retainer F2 should be reinstalled despite haveing double sealed bearings for spacing purpose which would be attained with the slight machined stop on the axle. The picture shows the cupped or open end be positioned to the bearing side, Is this correct?

Also the R/H F3 bearing support ring came out of the hub with the stepped side faceing the center of the hub and the flat face towards the bearing. Is this correct?

Some major ocd going on at my end but finding too many things not correctly installed this time around either by me 40 years ago or PO, Having a correct year parts Manual now helps to find these things, Plus this Forum.

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I keep all the spacers etc when fitting dual sealed bearings, grease them as otherwise they rust. I can't remember the spacer orientation, the site where you got the photos may have the info.

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As a matter of i got that photo from the triumph site on this forum on a thread you replied to. heres the link,

https://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/751431/wheel-bearing-fitment

In this thread there is references to photos that i,m unable to open, if i could the photo,s may show how they are orientated.

The member Kermit has some great reference material, you may have it, i can try to send his link if not. its called the bonnie ref

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Originally Posted by kommando
I keep all the spacers etc when fitting dual sealed bearings, grease them as otherwise they rust. I can't remember the spacer orientation, the site where you got the photos may have the info.
Unless you are sure they are genuine branded bearings ( bearings are the most counterfeited product on the planet, not watches ) always take the seals out & check for grease.
If there is nothing in there but a slip of Vasoline then clean them and pack in some quality bearing grease beforer replacing the seals


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Hi BSA_WM20, Thanks for reply, You for sure nailed that important information, After waiting and getting my new TLS threaded bearing retainer lock ring today so i could reassemble the whole front wheel assembly and reading your reply i decided to pull off the plastic seals from the bearings that i,ve had for last 3 weeks, and as you say what i see looks like vasoline. I cleaned it all out and repacked it with a wheel grease. I do not understand why anyone would go through the effort to build and seal a wheel bearing plus pack it with grease which would be only be used for a 10 year olds bicycle.


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