Hi John, Good the pump turned out ok.
Your first step is to diagnose the exact point(s) of leakage.
Since you’ve had this ongoing you need to be very accurate on diagnosis. Been down this road more than a few times. New oil makes diagnoses harder.
Looks like you have a complete shop with air compressor. Keeping paint damage in mind the area must be cleaned bone dry. What to use?? Normal parts cleaning solvent or paint thinner?? Parts wash spray often damaged paint do that’s out. Solvent outlawed here. I hate to use it but gas on a small paint brush & compressed air. Will take several attempts at cleaning in many cases. Since leak is fast cleaning may be futile, but for certain you must determine the copper seal is not seeping.
Lowering hose slightly on nipple for testing will help isolate hose seep from nipple seep.
As was stated over tightening nut can make things worse. Generally you start over tightening because it leaks. But loose was not root on. The tube can crack around the “flare”.
As was also stated oil hose looks overly deformed from clamp. If hose is too loose on nipple to start with it will really tend to seep. Hose works best with a snug push fit over tube, then clamp. Factory type band clamp was very good & doesn’t damage hose. Clamp size must fit hose. I’ve now been using Gates 5/16 fuel injection hose to very good results. Just did some recently. Sold in bulk at many Auto parts stores behind the counter. I’ll tell you straight up clear hose is a disaster waiting to happen. Replace with real hose. Gates sells the hose in skinny sizes also. Personally I clamp them as well. Small clamps are sold.
Loctite generally takes 24 hrs to cure. Again as was stated
It’s the flare that seals, not threads or underside of nut.
It’s looking like the hose is seeping or nipple is cracked. You might be able to replace both without draining tank.
I’ve reused oil many times. Carefully drain into a clean container. I use a fine paint strainer in clean funnel such size it doesn’t block strainer. Catches any dirt too large to pass through strainer.
Chrome on a new nipple may or may not chip when tightened.
Trial fit it & see. I put a bit of grease on flat of nipple whet nut shoulder is, on flare face & threads. This helps flare conform to filter tip & reduces galling. Together produces better seal with correct torque