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Here I go again. I appreciate all of the advice I have been given with the final start up stage of my 1970 TR6R refurbishment.

The bike is now running and I have been for a shakedown run and everything seems to be working as it should.

One challenge is a pesky oil leak at the oil feed line junction. I am getting a slow oil seepage where the upper tube is connected to the fitting at the bottom of the oil filter screen. It leaked right from the start, so I drained the oil, took everything apart and installed a new upper tube and nut. After re-assembly and putting the oil back in, i had the same issue.

I repeated the above and thoroughly cleaned the threads on the oil feed and because the new upper tube was chrome, I thought i would use the original upper tube with a good clean up. I took the extra precaution of coating the threads with Loctite sealer.

Reinstalled the oil and after sitting for about 10 minutes ... here comes the slow seepage again. It appears to be coming out the bottom of the nut holding the upper tube against the oil filter fitting. Everything is super tight, so am wondering if I need a more aggressive sealant on the oil filter fitting threads?

Thank you for any advice.
John

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The threads are (should not be) involved in the sealing.

The sealing is done by the external tapered end of the spigot being clamped into the internal taper of the filter fitting.

There may be a fault in one of these tapers, inspect them closely.

The clamping of the hose doesn’t look convincing, it is possible that it leaks from there, confusing the issue. Is the hose a good tight fit onto the spigot?
Also there are better hose clamps available.

You could leave the hose off, and block the hole in the spigot. You would then see if the oil is leaking from the taper.
If it doesn’t leak from the taper, then its leaking from the hose connection.

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This guy has some nice looking oil pipe as well as some clamps.
https://burtonbikebits.net/herringbone/


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By the look of the angled clamp and the offset position of the pipe in the nut, it appears the pipe is warped. As Koan said, the seal is on the taper, not the threads. Any slight scratch in the surface will cause a weep.

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A quick fix would be to replace that clamp with a fully screwed jubilee clip type to see if it fixes it. That clip looks slightly too big to do the job. Jubiliee clips are also called hose clamps, depending on what part of the world you are in. a 6 - 16mm one I find does the trick, I get these from the local hardware store (Bunnings in Aus)


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Do not overtighten the taper joint. This makes it worse. It is sometimes hard to see where the oil is coming from. Mine leaked at the joint between the filter and tank. You can put a bit of thread sealant on the tank joint and something on the fibre washer. Someone sold me a copper washer for the tank and it was hopeless.

Dave

Last edited by dave jones; 06/09/21 5:42 pm.
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Hi John, Good the pump turned out ok.

Your first step is to diagnose the exact point(s) of leakage.

Since you’ve had this ongoing you need to be very accurate on diagnosis. Been down this road more than a few times. New oil makes diagnoses harder.

Looks like you have a complete shop with air compressor. Keeping paint damage in mind the area must be cleaned bone dry. What to use?? Normal parts cleaning solvent or paint thinner?? Parts wash spray often damaged paint do that’s out. Solvent outlawed here. I hate to use it but gas on a small paint brush & compressed air. Will take several attempts at cleaning in many cases. Since leak is fast cleaning may be futile, but for certain you must determine the copper seal is not seeping.

Lowering hose slightly on nipple for testing will help isolate hose seep from nipple seep.

As was stated over tightening nut can make things worse. Generally you start over tightening because it leaks. But loose was not root on. The tube can crack around the “flare”.

As was also stated oil hose looks overly deformed from clamp. If hose is too loose on nipple to start with it will really tend to seep. Hose works best with a snug push fit over tube, then clamp. Factory type band clamp was very good & doesn’t damage hose. Clamp size must fit hose. I’ve now been using Gates 5/16 fuel injection hose to very good results. Just did some recently. Sold in bulk at many Auto parts stores behind the counter. I’ll tell you straight up clear hose is a disaster waiting to happen. Replace with real hose. Gates sells the hose in skinny sizes also. Personally I clamp them as well. Small clamps are sold.

Loctite generally takes 24 hrs to cure. Again as was stated
It’s the flare that seals, not threads or underside of nut.

It’s looking like the hose is seeping or nipple is cracked. You might be able to replace both without draining tank.

I’ve reused oil many times. Carefully drain into a clean container. I use a fine paint strainer in clean funnel such size it doesn’t block strainer. Catches any dirt too large to pass through strainer.

Chrome on a new nipple may or may not chip when tightened.
Trial fit it & see. I put a bit of grease on flat of nipple whet nut shoulder is, on flare face & threads. This helps flare conform to filter tip & reduces galling. Together produces better seal with correct torque.
Don


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Thank you all for your help and advice.

I always try to use original parts when reassembling a restoration (refurbishment). However, I did not notice how deteriorated the end of the hose was until I saw the close up photo on my post! Duh!!!

Following Dave's and Koan's advice, I backed off the hose on the upper tube and it was easy to determine that the oil was seeping back up the hose past the clamp. i removed the hose and trimmed away the soft rubber. I didn't like to, but used a gear clamp instead of the original. I now have no seepage.

I was so confident, that I parked the bike outside my garage on a clean cement driveway and attached a photo ... no oil drip!

Hopefully, all of my "tightening" didn't create any new issues, but if it did, I now have two new upper tubes and fastening nuts in stock, so will be an expert on this item at least.

Thank you all again!
John

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Hi John, Good going!
Good diagnosis leads to correct repairs. They showed you well.
Are you saying that’s an old hose?
Old hoses deteriorate on the inner lining. #1 problem I’ve seen in oil pumps is rubber chip from hose stuck in ball. Don’t let that get you. I’ve seen 2 cases of clear hose even with thread in them fracture while riding.
Don


1973 Tiger 750

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