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johnu Offline OP
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After getting my engine running properly after a light overhaul the clutch is now not working. I don't know if it was working when I purchased the bike as all I did was start the engine. I replaced the clutch plates when I did the overhaul. The clutch is not releasing when the lever is pulled in. With the bike in gear (engine not running) and and lever pulled in you cannot move the bike. I tried rolling down the driveway with the bike running pulling the clutch in and clicking into gear but it just stalls. I can see the plates moving when I pull the clutch in. Any ideas?

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Is the pushrod fitted? And have you taken the slack up in the rod? Also did you remove/alter the 2” actuating arm off the outer timing case, these are “timed” in the fact that there’s only one correct position to set it up in with several chances of getting it wrong.


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Originally Posted by johnu
I can see the plates moving when I pull the clutch in. Any ideas?

Originally Posted by Allan G
Is the pushrod fitted? And have you taken the slack up in the rod? Also did you remove/alter the 2” actuating arm off the outer timing case, these are “timed” in the fact that there’s only one correct position to set it up in with several chances of getting it wrong.

Hmmm.


I am guessing thats its all there, but just stuck from sitting, try leaving the lever pulled in and cable tied to the bar overnight, see if it frees the next day.


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Originally Posted by johnu
I can see the plates moving when I pull the clutch in. Any ideas?
For starters, I haven't read the full thread so I may be repeating other advice. But having said that, have you balanced the clutch pressure plate yet?

The idea is to adjust the 4 springs so the pressure plate lifts evenly. Do this with the primary cover off, you sitting on the bike and kicking it through with the clutch lever pulled in, all the while eyeballing the pressure plate for any side to side wobble.

Put a paint mark on your high spot so you don't lose track and tighten the nearest spring or springs a little, maybe a half turn. (You could also loosen the opposite spring.) Then check it again repeating the drill until you are satisfied it is as true as you can make it. I will use a dial indicator for this, but that's just me. Opinions will vary.

If the clutch lever pull becomes too difficult, you will need to unscrew the adjusters evenly to the point that lever pull is tolerable and do the balancing drill again.

This whole process is typical for old Brit bikes but entirely alien for Jap and most other machines.

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Strip out all of the plates and check that the inner & outer are fee to rotate without any plates in there
Never trust a clutch that you have not rebuilt .
I have seen all sorts of highly dubious things done to clutches over the years .


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I would start at the handlebar lever and work forwards from there, here are some ideas of what to look for, and check the parts list diagram on the Draganfly website Here:-
- check the clutch cable is free and isn't trapped or kinked anywhere
- have a look at the rack and pinion lever mechanism on the timing cover. It may be that the adjustment is wrong and that the rack (item no 59 in the diagram) is bottoming on the inner timing cover when the handlebar lever is pulled.
- check the ball bearing which fits between the clutch pushrod and rack (item no 60 in the diagram) is present.

If all of the above are present and working then with the clutch pressure plate removed, ensure the pushrod moves outwards when the handlebar lever is pulled in.

Before refitting the clutch pressure plate check the spring lengths are all the same and the cups all have identical depths. It may be worth buying new springs & cups from a reliable source as often the wrong ones are fitted.

Refit the pressure plate and screw in the adjusters equally until bottomed, check the handlebar lever has some free play, and then unscrew each adjuster so that the clutch fully disengages when the handlebar lever is pulled in. You may need to further adjust the screws, handlebar lever & cable adjustment so that the pressure plate fully disengages and runs true with the handlebar lever pulled in.

That's how I've adjusted the clutches on my B44 and A65 to ensure maximum spring pressure and also full disengagement, just my way of doing it, others may have different thoughts.


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He said the plates were moving when the clutch is pulled in so presumably the lever to the pressure plate components are working.
How much pressure plate lift is there?
What, exactly did you do on the clutch, just replace plates? Remove the hub? Any chance you put a steel plate in first and is stuck between the hub and chainwheel?
Remove the pressure plate and plates, see if the hub is free of the chainwheel.

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johnu Offline OP
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Originally Posted by DMadigan
He said the plates were moving when the clutch is pulled in so presumably the lever to the pressure plate components are working.
How much pressure plate lift is there?
What, exactly did you do on the clutch, just replace plates? Remove the hub? Any chance you put a steel plate in first and is stuck between the hub and chainwheel?
Remove the pressure plate and plates, see if the hub is free of the chainwheel.
Ok I think I found the problem! After removing the clutch plates I still could not turn the basket and center hub indepentantly of each other (as you mentioned). When I loosened the nut and wiggled the center hub it became free. I hate to admit this but when I reassembled the clutch I think maybe the thrust washer dropped off of its retaining lip so when I tightened it all up the hub and basket were locked together! And yes I have new plates and a new primary chain. I just ordered a new thrust washer and rollers. I'm going to stick the thrust washer on with grease this time to stop it moving.
[Linked Image]

Last edited by johnu; 06/09/21 10:22 pm. Reason: spelling
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All good now with new thrust washer and rollers:)

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