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If the company "Forks by Frank" is still in business, They would be my first choice. A few years ago, when I asked about fork tubes for a 1949 Norton, they had them in stock!


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Originally Posted by Morrisey
Triumph changed the damping hole arrangement in 68 - the 70 stanchions have a different part # so there was other changes.

I think the post 1966 bikes had quite a few changes. I am having to be very careful with parts ordering.


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Originally Posted by HughdeMann
If the company "Forks by Frank" is still in business, They would be my first choice. A few years ago, when I asked about fork tubes for a 1949 Norton, they had them in stock!
My friend Debby thought of Forking By Frank. I went to their web site. It seems that they are not processing orders at this time.


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Hi,
Originally Posted by Big_Jim59
didn't know that the damper cone would hold the stanction in place?
Doesn't. All Paul was saying is you'll need the deep socket to reach over the cone to its hex. and the extensions to get the socket down the inside of the slider, to hold the cone while you undo the cone's securing bolt through the bottom of the slider.

Originally Posted by Morrisey
70 stanchions have a different part #
'70-on stanchions were hard-chromed, pre-'70 weren't originally. Thankfully, even the pattern parts makers hard-chrome both pre-'70 and '70-on stanchions. thumbsup

Originally Posted by Morrisey
top nut thread was also changed in 68 from earlier models.
Fork stanchions and damping were changed completely from '67 to '68. Educated guess says the opportunity was taken to change threads from 26 tpi British Standard to 28 tpi Unified?

Hth.

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I am pretty convinced that the sliders will not come off and even if they did the state of the inside is going to be bad or worse than what I have already seen. There is an assortment of parts on eBay that I have been thinking of buying just to have enough parts to get a build started. The number on the triple clamp matches the number on mine so I think I am in the right ballpark.


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Originally Posted by GrandPaul
Love that 515 Flange Sealer.

I’m not familiar with this particular product. Is it Loctites equivalent to Hylomar?

Ian


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I lied. I started working on the forks and I have both of them sliding in and out. It's amazing what a little heat and a strap wrench will do. I have not been able to pull the stanction as the bushing seem to be stuck pretty good but I will work on them. What I need is some kind of reverse hydraulic press to push them apart.

I was a little worried. When I poured the contents of each fork leg into my oil bucket nothing but water came out. I had the cap on one tube as I had installed the top triple clamp to give me something to hit against. I was concerned that my heating the tube would generate steam that might blow the fork tube through the ceiling of my garage.


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Originally Posted by Big_Jim59
I have not been able to pull the stanchion as the bushing seem to be stuck pretty good but I will work on them. What I need is some kind of reverse hydraulic press to push them apart.

I leave both forks attached to the yokes, and clamp the top yoke in my heavy vice (with soft alloy jaw protectors).

Grab a leg and slide it in 3-4 inches, then smack it out like a slide hammer. You're going to replace the bushings anyway.


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Originally Posted by GrandPaul
I leave both forks attached to the yokes, and clamp the top yoke in my heavy vice (with soft alloy jaw protectors).

Grab a leg and slide it in 3-4 inches, then smack it out like a slide hammer. You're going to replace the bushings anyway.

Yep, I did it a little different but on the same principle. I blocked up the slider in my vice between two blocks of soft wood. I sanded the rough spots off the fork leg down with emery cloth until it was sliding better and not sticking at the end of the stroke. I attached the top yoke so I would have something to grab on to. It took about 10 good hard slamming hits and it was out. I didn't try the second one. I need some more emery cloth but I will get some tomorrow.


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I hit a slow patch on my Triumph project. I am still trying the "slide hammer" the right fork tube out of the slider. I have managed to shift it a 1/16th of an inch but it is being a real bear.

I also placed my for parts order which depressed me a bit. The only thing salvageable on my forks is the sliders and, in all fairness, they should be replaced as well. It takes a bit of the fun out of the project when it becomes a giant parts catalog order. It also is a testament to what neglect and outdoor storage will do to a British bike from the 60s..


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Yep, ordering parts BEFORE you COMPLETELY tear the bike down and inspect each and every part, is NOT the best idea.

You need to do the teardown & inspection, then go thru the parts book page-by-page, line-by-line and put together ONE or two large parts orders.

Otherwise you waste a significant amount of money on multiple shipping charges that are higher for smaller lots. Plus, you can sometimes negotiate a significant discount.

I used to offer free tires & tubes, drive chain, and battery if people had me order their whole project in one go. (retired now, sorry)

Last edited by GrandPaul; 02/01/21 1:28 am.

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A complete tear down, cataloging of all the parts, making my parts list and ordering all at one time makes sense if A) I had the money to do that and B) if I was going for a full on frame up restoration. As it is, this is a work in progress that may never get done. (But it is progressing.) It gives me something to do in the garage. It gives me strange enjoyment.

There are corners I am willfully cutting, mostly when it comes to cosmetics. I am using some rusty but serviceable nuts and bolts. I sourced some beat up (but correct) tank badges for my beat up tank. I am going to need new chain, rear sprocket (I have the front one already) tires, tubes and battery among other things. It has to be safe to ride.

The thing that gets me the most about my parts order is how neglect lead to the utter ruination of so many components. These bikes are cool and they work well, for what they are, but there is a limited supply. Letting one just disintegrate is sad.


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Originally Posted by Big_Jim59
The thing that gets me the most ... is how neglect lead to the utter ruination of so many components. These bikes are cool and they work well, for what they are, but there is a limited supply. Letting one just disintegrate is sad.

Well, we don't always know the story about why some bikes are left. Sometimes the owners pass away and no family members care or know whats in the old shed till way after the fact...


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Hey Big Jim, fellow piper and bike guy here. We don't charge for shipping at all.


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Originally Posted by The Bonneville Shop
Hey Big Jim, fellow piper and bike guy here. We don't charge for shipping at all.

I am sending you some of my business. I divide my meager disposable income between reeds and piping goodies and bike stuff.


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Originally Posted by GrandPaul
Well, we don't always know the story about why some bikes are left. Sometimes the owners pass away and no family members care or know whats in the old shed till way after the fact...

So true. Mine was built badly and then abandoned.


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I have been piddling around with the T100 project these last few weeks. I got side tracked by a new band set to memorize and a few band gigs but i did manage to get back in the garage.

I finally had to sent the head off to the machine shop. I had a valve cover bolt broken off in the head. The bolt it self stood proud of the head a good 1/8" and after drilling the center through I thought a pare of vice-grips and an EZ-Out would do the trick. It has in the past but I was wrong. I ended up snapping the EZ_Out off and making a simple job for the machine shop a lot harder. Lesson learned. In the end they put a 1/4 - 20 Helicoil in it.

I am going to pull the rocker shafts, clean that all up and install new seals.


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I cleaned, buffed and replaced the seals in the rocker boxes. I stripped the head and wire brushed the crud and filth from the combustion chamber and passageways.but that was some time ago. I have spent the last few weeks moving my shop.

A year ago, when we moved from the country to the city, I lost my shop, This was my 20' x 20' work space that I had all to myself. My new house had a garage that I had to share with cars and lawn mowers. The work bench fit bit only just and the lack of electrical outlets made life unpleasant. We decided to spend the stimulus money on running power to what has become known as the shed. It is a wonderful space but it lacked power.

So I guess you could say that this is part of the T100 project. I now have power outlets for everything and lights, beautiful, wonderful brights lights for this pre cataract surgery old man.

I have moved in this weekend and set up shop. My next step will be to finish stripping the frame (just the shocks and the rear fender are left) and then I will get serious about cleaning, painting and getting parts back in place.

Last edited by Big_Jim59; 04/26/21 12:03 am.

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The front hub is apart and the front brake stripped. The wheel bearings are the only things that were not complete trash and I am replacing them anyway. The inside of the brake drum is rusty but is cleaning up with a wire brush, likewise the rim. I used a rotary wire wheel on the rim followed by a little abrasive polish and it's going to clean up very nicely. This is good news on a bike that seems like what ever I touch is ruined by rust and neglect.

The rear brake plate may be a lost cause. It was bent out, presumably to try release the stuck brake and the brake shaft is rusted in place. I'll take the offending backing plate to work and see if I can press the shaft out.

The rear shocks were a rusted mess and so I have ordered pattern ones. In fact I placed a pretty sizable order with Classic British Spares for items needed for the rolling chassis. This includes the above mentioned wheel bearings, dust covers, rear sprocket and the like but also has engine components like a new duplex primary chain (the old one has a huge rust spot in it) plus .040 pistons and rings. In short I have enough stuff to move the project along.

Oh, I also ordered new tires, tubes and rubber center strips (from a different vendor). I got a couple of Shinko 712s. They have a more modern profile and will leave me with some cash to put toward a charging system upgrade. The Shinkos will work fine on a bike of this power.

My next step is to start cleaning the frame in earnest. The base, around the swing arm pivot is a caked on dirty mess. When I get that clean and the whole thing given a few coats of semi gloss black I will be ready to build upwards.


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I tried to cut a corner. It was a tiny little corner. Given the actual mileage estimate of the bike is pretty low and since it has spent most of it's life sitting I decided to try and get away with just replacing the balls and not the races in the head bearing. That was a stupid mistake as one rotation of the head stock will attest. I have new bearings and races on order.

The good news is I can use the original rims. Yes, there is some surface rust but most of it buffed out. The inside is a bit worse but it's not destructive. They are in usable condition until such time as I want to replace them with new spokes.

I got my cylinder back from the machine shop this week. I had two new .040 pistons fitted. I have them painted and they are ready to install.

The frame cleaned up well enough and is good enough to make a rider which is what I am after.


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