Hi Dan, Sorry my last post didn't stick for some reason. I see you got the ball cam out. Removed the pawl plate, the the 2 counter sink screws. These can be very tight & I've found later bikes like T140s they are often loctited from factory. I heat the screws until spit steams they use impact screwdriver with cover sitting on my lap with a folded towel to protect my legs. I sit in a chair while doing this. I'd use blue loctite on the screws 242 or 243.
The balls wear. They also tend to rust. I expect the hard surface corroded off. They will pit & wear. The ball ramp will wear. The center pivot will wear. All this adds up to lost motion.
Regarding the rod, I've observed T140 rods starting in 1973 are shorter than spec in Manual
. This is from new, not worn, yet part # is exactly the same. The T140 rod is often 11.750" long, while Manual
spec is 11.812-11.822" long. So T140 rod tends to be about 1/16" shorter. I wonder if factory did this due to the adjuster screw hitting plug?? That's a guess.
Still the adjuster screw hitting plug is very common. I've shortened the slotted end of adjuster screw on several bikes. You can see rub mark on plug & I've seen 2 plugs worn through. I take a 3/8-24 nut, cut it half way through starting a point of hex. Run a bolt through it to deburr cut. . Now screw adjuster screw into nut. Clamp in vise such the slot will squeeze on threads & hold screw tight. This allows you to easily cut slotted tip of screw short. Then reslot screw with hack saw. I usually make screw just a tad longer than lock nut is thick. Adjust rod & lever, put dab of grease on tip of screw. Install plug. Pull lever a few times. remove plug & check for grease transfer.
The length of rod doesn't effect lift. The bar lever & cam movement produces lift. So long as you get rod adjustment good, Have enough threads on adjuster screw & nut, screw doesn't hit plug rod length doesn't really matter.
One way to "cheat" & get more lift is modify the lever or perch. Lever is easier. File lever thinner by about 1/32-3/64. maybe even 1/16". File it such the cable nipple pivot moves closer to perch. However keep enough metal to not unduly weaken the lever that nipple can pull out. The lever will be farther from grip. However you won't feel that really. This allows for more inches of cable pull. It doesn't take much more pull to get more lift. I've done this a few times when all else failed.
Of course a "spongy" cable will give lost motion as well. I will only use Barnett clutch cable. They are lined & give same easy lever effort as Venhill featherlite, yet the ends are much stronger as they are swaged steel, not soldered. Way stronger! I lube with motor oil like shown in shop Manual
. I find it works well. You choose your lube. Lube definitively gives even easier pull.
On a side note it is very common to have a fair amount of rust in the outer cover area above the oil level. No cure I know of. The rust & wear weakens the gear shift centering springs. Early bikes have "normal" centering springs. Works ok. However in about '77 or '78 factory installed a much stiffer spring # 57-7051. Fatter spring wire & it has a decided curve to fit cover. These really helped left foot shift bikes & also work excellent for earlier years. I use them 100% of time. Positive centering of shift lever is essential for best shifting & really helps in finding neutral. I'd recommend fitting them. It is common for the springs to rust through. The sides wear thin as well.
I'd also put new oring on kicker shaft. It's a special X ring profile. I just buy from a parts seller by part #. No need to remove the tin seal retainer. Just pick out old ring with a pointed tool. Fit new ring back into cover. Very easy. Smooth shaft if/as needed with fine emery cloth followed by a quick rub with grey scotchbrite pad. Ace hardware sells the grey scotchbrite. (fine). Take very detailed photos of kicker shaft/spring, relationship to flat of kick shaft for cotter bolt & inner tip of spring. Looks really obvious how it goes until it falls off.... Get new cotter bolt just in case. Often they groove & don't tighten well. Nut goes towards front of bike. This lines up kicker arm correctly. Cotter backwards the arm slopes to rear too much. Some owners like it back though.
Regarding the loose nut that is bad. It should be tight. Very common to loosen. Sometimes it wears lock tab such nut backs way off.
Not so simple as just retightening... The loose nut allows the kicker gear bushing & washer against bearing to spin & wear. Almost certain to have wear with loose nut. Look at washer where bushing presses. If grooved, replace it. Look at end of bushing. It often wears tapered. So tightening tends to not hold as well in future. Also look very close at ratchet gear spring. The spring tends to wear on the center flat area. Tip of spring is not so critical. Center wear is serious. It will wear thin & spring breaks into 2 pieces. This reduces pressure on ratchet gear which can allow slipping of gear. A slip of gear will cause grave damage to the knee. Can easily end kicking with that leg the rest of your life. If any of these parts are damaged/worn replace them. If ratchet gears are worn, replace.
I put non gasketed covers on with loctite 518. Notice any screw threads that are not blind, but go to outside of motor, put sealant on the screw threads on these screws. Prevents trans oil from wicking out threads & leaking. I know on paper it shouldn't do that, but.... I've seen it a lot. I hate leaks.
Keep at this & you'll have a perfect working clutch. Makes bike so nice to ride.
Tip: 5 speed gear dogs are steeply back cut. This prevents gears from jumping out if even slight pressure is on gear teeth. This fights you getting neutral at times. If you blip throttle at stand still clutch pulled, then select neutral just as motor rpm peaks the gears are unloaded for a moment. Makes finding neutral a snap every time. This works even with a poorly adjusted clutch that is dragging some.
In neutral at stand still, it often takes 3 full seconds for gears to coast to stop after pulling clutch lever. If you can read the red light & pull lever at right time, it will go into gear without clunk. However wait too long & if dogs are not lined up, you'll have to clutch it & select first again. Often the light is now green & you must get first with a clunk & go or get rear ended. Lower idle rpm reduces gear momentum & shortens their coasting time. But too low & motor can die if motor gets too heat soaked.
I find clutch work really interesting & fun.