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#847988 05/03/21 9:08 pm
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johnu Offline OP
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I have a 1959 A10 rgs replica that I inherited from my dad and I would like to use a Lithium Ion battery on it. Will it be ok on the A10 and if so which battery would I need get. I'm rubbish at any mc electrical stuff!

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You'll need a voltage regulator setup to suit the battery or you'll shorten it's life.

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And note that most lithium automotive batteries are Lithium IRON type batteries.

The high-power little jiggers in phones etc are lithium ion type, quite a different technology.
And more $$ for a much much much smaller package.

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If you are running the original magneto set up then the only demmand on the battery will be the lights .
So run the battery total loss & sharge it back up at home
Fit an LED stop / Tail lamp & Pilot light if daylight running ligtsare law in your area
I run a single cyclon in the M20 & it will run a full 3 day rally , lights on on a single charge .
And remember if that Lithium battery finites, there is no putting it out which is why you keep seeing all those Teslas burned to a crisp .


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i do believe that unless you have some sort of e start conversion you would be just as happy with agm type. its a good thing to remember that batteries store electricity they dont makeit. the generator/alternator ideally supplies the electrical power at speed but if a generator model it will discharge at idle..doesnt your a10 have an alternator?? seems to me the later b and a series did. it would be a better deal to upgrade it IF it has the alternator fitted to a more modern type as they will fit, if it hasnt been done already.if it still has the Lucas e3 generator your options are pretty limited but the leds wm20 recommended are a good idea.

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The only advantage to a Lithium battery is in a deep-cycle application, as in powering an electric motor. That is, a lithium battery supplies the same amount of amp-hours as a lead-acid battery with two to three times less size and weight. This is more or less meaningless in a situation where the battery is constantly being charged. Lithium batteries are expensive and require a special charger (and probably a special voltage regulator, as mentioned above.)

An AGM battery is a lead-acid battery; it's just that the acid is absorbed in a glass mat instead of sloshing around. They are therefore maintenance-free and, IMO, less subject to vibration. Most important, they're internally vented and have no external breather through which to spit acid on your chrome. I'm very happy with the Motobatt AGM 11AH battery in my A65, but I don't know what's available in 6 volts.


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Thanks for all the replies and info. Decided to go with the AGM battery instead.

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Originally Posted by johnu
Thanks for all the replies and info. Decided to go with the AGM battery instead.

A much better option in my opinion


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

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I have experience with lithium iron batteries in several bikes. First of all they need a steady well regulated dynamo/alternator , something suspect on many Brit bikes.
People say LI batteries need special chargers...Think about it, vehicle charging systems are nothing special....The main concern is a charger that never exceeds 15 volts for a 12 volt battery and no special charging pulses.


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Originally Posted by Hillbilly bike
I have experience with lithium iron batteries in several bikes. First of all they need a steady well regulated dynamo/alternator , something suspect on many Brit bikes.
People say LI batteries need special chargers...Think about it, vehicle charging systems are nothing special....The main concern is a charger that never exceeds 15 volts for a 12 volt battery and no special charging pulses.
I also have experience with Lithium batteries. I use them on my HD XR 750 tracker. It works great. Just replaced it with a new one of the same. The previous one went 6 years. I use a recommended charger for it as it has a 7 stage charging process that the lithiums like. The battery weighs less than 3 pounds compared to the AGM at 17 pounds.


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I guess none of you have seen a hover board catch fire?


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The OP went with AGM........good choice IMO. I use the Motobatt AGM batteries with good results. Love the fact that there's a good chance your chrome won't suffer from it.

WARNING.......long mostly boring story.

BUT ......When I built up by B50 I wanted to get rid of that awful stock electrical box.......space was limited and the Lithium batteries were still kinda new. The size and weight was perfect for the spot I had picked out to mount the battery along with other ignition bits so I went with one. Pricey little devil but damn it was sweet. I ended up getting the correct charger used off eBay for a song.....that helped in making the decision too. Fast forward, the bike and battery did fine. Maybe I got lucky but nothing seemed out of place and as far as I could tell there was nothing wrong with the set up. I had fun with the bike but as time went on I found I wasn't riding it much and wasn't smart enough to hook it up the the charger/maintainer. I have a Trail Tech computer on that bike and it was drawing a "tiny" bit of current. Bike sat there long enough unused that the Trail Tech ran the battery down past it's KILL/DEAD voltage. When I finally got around to checking it, it was toast. Putting it on the CORRECT charger would just make it go into fault mode....and do nothing. What's a man to do.......as far as I know it was my fault not the battery so I purchased another. For some reason I didn't throw the other one out. THEN one day I ran across a thread on one of the other boards I'm on about bringing one back to life using the regular ole battery Tender type charger???????? Really?????? I had nothing to lose so I tried it since I have a couple of those here. It brought that poor thing back to life over night and I swear I'm STILL using it in the B50. I carry that new one I bought in my tank bag as a spare now. Try that with a glass mat.

I've read all the horror stories and pretty much believe them all...........I also know a fellow that ended with some very nasty acid burns from a regular car battery blowing up on him in his own garage when he had a trickle charger on it......you've heard those stories too.

After all I've read I will probably stick the the AGMs but until they fail I'm using these two Lithiums.

Gordon

Last edited by Gordon Gray; 05/08/21 1:27 pm.

Gordon Gray in NC, USA.........as Lannis says “Gordon is either all in or all out.....there’s no in between”
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Yes Gordon, I failed to mention the incentive to go lithium when there's very limited space. And lithiums do have extraordinary longevity.

Working at a shop where we make and sell electric mobility scooters, I've had an intimate relationship (and many pairs of ruined bluejeans) with batteries, and the only time in eighteen years I've seen a lead-acid battery burst is when someone left a charger on a worn-out battery overnight. Fortunately no one was there at the time and we just had a mess to clean up in the morning.

Lithium "accidents" are of a different nature; they're typically caused by an internal short and a rapid discharge of energy, resulting in combustion.

Greetings Gordon, "still at it" in Owego,


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Mark, always good to hear from you.

When I got mine that brand was new on the motorcycle market and not many real life reviews were out there. The number one priority on this bike was space. At the time the battery was twice as much $$$ as a glass mat. Now after all this time and considering I have some of the early ones( I think)....... I'm lucky they are still working. But after reading and seeing first hand some of the problems folks have with them on our older bikes.....I don't trust them and will wait for the technology to get better (and I do believe it will) before I buy another one.

I'm in commercial construction ( I'm a project superintendent) 85-90% of the hand tools used by the trades I deal with are battery powered. I was around when they first came out......I'm amazed how far they've come. Not "quite" the same environment.....but.

I don't trust them so I keep them out of the bike, on their maintainer and away from combustibles.

For my purpose, at the time.....the size difference was the deciding factor. The yellow battery is out of my B44R for comparison. beerchug

Figure the OP already made his decision and a thread steal wasn't going to hurt anything.

Take care.....stay safe and healthy........your friend down here in NC.......Gordon smile

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Last edited by Gordon Gray; 05/09/21 3:53 am.

Gordon Gray in NC, USA.........as Lannis says “Gordon is either all in or all out.....there’s no in between”
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I built a FrankenLightning about 20 years ago that had very limited battery space. the early Boyers need a steady electrical, so a battery is a must to stabilize the system. doesn't need to be much, but needs to be good. my solution for that was a battery made for emergency lighting. there were lots of small sealed lead/acid batteries in emergency lights at the time . the one I chose was 2Ah, and about 2x2x4 inches and cost..... something like $11. I ran it a couple years & was working when I sold the bike

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I hear ya Mitch. Mike Carter used those type of batteries too. Not sure how they held up with the vibration but he and I both had access to those because of our jobs. I actually have one here I keep charged to power my timing light but have never used one in a bike.

I’m thinking the technology will advance to a point where all batteries will be stronger, safer and smaller. They sell a bunch of those LI batteries now. But from what I read and been told they are not compatible to our old charging systems. To date that has not been my experience but that could change next ride.

Later my friend........Gordon

Last edited by Gordon Gray; 05/10/21 12:12 pm.

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I got my first Lithium battery a bunch of years ago when I was looking for a 12 volt battery that would fit inside the case of my old tar top 6 volt battery on my Velocette. The only lead batteries were tiny and they wouldn't last long. I got a Shorai 11 amp hour and it was like a revelation. All of a sudden my headlight was bright. The battery would last all winter without a charge. The JG 12 volt converter and Lucas generator seemed to keep it charged up.. I was sold. I started buying them for my other bikes. Some issues began to arose. My B50 killed them in short order. Don't know if it was the vibration or the charging issue, but after the second one on warranty I gave up on them for the B50. The special charger was a problem. If the battery was low, the charger would tell you it was no good. Put it on a regular battery tender and it would charge right up. I was told by Shorai that the difference between the chargers is that the special charger charges each cell individually, while a battery tender charges all of them at the same time.
The killer for me was a Shorai in my '68 Suzuki TC 250. Had I read the Manual, I would have known that it had a very primitive regulating system. I didn't, and I installed the Shorai. Took the bike out for a couple of 30-40 mile rides and it was fine. Used the bike in the East Coast Moto Giro. 80 miles out in the middle of nowhere, the battery blew up. Of course the fact that I didn't properly research the suitability of the battery for that bike and the fact that there were problems with the chase truck and I didn't get rescued for 9 hours isn't the battery's fault, but it kind of soured me on them.
On my bikes where they are still working, they are remaining, but I wont be buying any more (except for the Velo).

Ed from NJ

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