Spares you will need, Gearbox main bearing oil seal, clutch back door oil seal, might as well change them while you are in there.
Clutch thrust washer, the old one is probably worn.
Tab washers for rotor and sprocket nuts.
Gaskets for primary and clutch back door.
Stator leads grommet.
Cush drive rubbers, or new complete centre hub unit ( recommended), these are often well worn.
The clutch will have some wobble on its bearing, you might assume they are goosed, unless obviously worn/ pitted dont bother replacing, the new ones will wobble as well.
Tools you will need,
a big screwdriver with a slot ground in the centre for the clutch springs.
Clutch centre puller/ pusher.
1 and a 1/2 " AF deep socket for the sprocket nut, a british leyland Mini Ball joint socket works for me. Or saw the square drive off a short one and weld it to a tube .
A couple of 1/4 BSF
screws and a strong back or two legged puller to get the motor sprocket off.
A 2 foot batten for the rear brake pedal
Some means of warming the Stator leads ( hot air gun?) , these get brittle , before removing the stator warm them up so you can move it out of the way without cracking any brittle insulation.
A proper Work Shop manual
Fix the footrest first it will be handy.
Slacken foot rest, leave dangling down, drain case, remove screws and inspection caps, knock around joint, pull case with fingers in cap holes.
Note long screws to front, short to rear.
Refit brake pedal and footrest temporarily, use the 2 foot batten pivotted off the footrest to apply the rear brake when undoing rotor nut..If you have an impact gun , the brake may not be needed.
Warm the stator leads and remove the stator, there are small cut outs in the casing to allow small wedges , it should be tight on the studs, the wedges help unseat it from the housing, , ideally remove it completely, I sometimes leave it connected and park it on the top of the cases, but it needs to be threaded through the chain if still connected. If you remove the tails , fit a new grommet on rebuild
, knock back rotor nut tab, bike in gear , apply back brake to undo nut.
Back off and remove chain tensioner, watch for spacers, one on the spindle and the red buffer at the top of the adjuster ( this is often missing)
Slacken clutch springs a turn at a time, if you fully slacken one the others will be more difficult to get off, slacken evenly,keep a blunt knife handy to ease the locking pip on the screw past the spring end.
Before removing pressure plate and springs / cups, mark them so the same bits go back in the same holes.
Remove the plate stack, use the two magnets to draw out the plates, if you are reusing it, mark one row of tabs and the drum slots so they go back in the same place. Bag this as one lump for the time being.
Undo the clutch centre nut, this will be tight, again , impact gun or back brake to lock shafts. there should be a thick spacer washer under the nut remove it.
In theory this is when you use the puller / pusher tool, screw it into the female hub threads, clean these first. Buy this tool from a reputable supplier , and make sure it is for your model year, threads changed over time and Makes, . To use it , screw in the body to the centre, turn the jacking screw to touch the shaft then tighten as much as you dare, bang the jacking screw with a 4 lb hammer, dont go mental or you will knock the bearing housings to bits.
Good luck , be very cautious of this tool, they never work for me, some shafts have very minimal threading to allow it to engage , if you get lucky the clutch comes off completely with a bang.
If you get unlucky and the puller threads strip you can pull the clutch cush drive drum off its spline, allowing the chain wheel to fall off the bearings, plan for this with a magnet under the drum to catch the 20 loose rollers, you are now left with the chain in the way, pull the motor sprocket and chain.
if the centre is well stuck on there be prepared to sacrifice it , split with cutting disc and chisel, or try a 3 legged puller, either means buying a replacement.
Once the clutch is off the rest is easy, remove back door, gearbox sprocket tab/ nut, sprocket , oil seal, fit new bits, clean all joint faces, rebuild.