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#846936 04/23/21 4:33 pm
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Nick H Offline OP
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This is my timing cover at the oil pressure switch. 1970 T120
Don't know why I have this male fitting or what to do about it. Seems to be 27 TPI.
Take it out with vice grips (ouch!) and install switch (or blanking plug)?

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Last edited by Nick H; 04/23/21 5:34 pm.

1966 BSA Lightning
(2) 1967 Triumph "Choppa"s
1974 Indian ME125
1960 Harley Servi-Car
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Possibly the thread is different on the hidden section or a press fit repair for a stripped thread.

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That’s a plain old 1/8” NPT close nipple. Someone probably had a gauge with a female NPT fitting and that was their solution.

Chris

Last edited by Chris Johnson; 04/23/21 6:34 pm.
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Was nothing connected to it when you got the bike?

It was possibly to adapt for a compression fitting at the end of a universal plastic oil pipe, tor feeding an oil pressure gauge.
If so, it will have a short taper at the entrance for the olive.

It looks home-made, and some of the threads look a bit rough.
It seems excessively long for any usual purpose.

If you don’t intend fitting a pressure gauge, I’d suggest removing it and either fitting a OP switch or blanking it.
Check the thread on the inner end of the adaptor, so you know what thread you have in the case.

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Hi Nick, This gets tricky. For starters there is a straight thread pipe thread & tapered pipe thread. Both are 1/8 pipe 27 tpi. So there is 1/8 straight & 1/8 taper.

A ‘70 would have come from factory with straight thread 1:8-27S. The pressure switch would use copper sealing washer.

Early covers had taper. 1/8-27P

A straight male thread usually will bind in tapered thread before bottoming.

Putting tapered male thread into straight hole will split the cover before it feels fully tight.

Back to photo it looks like a 1/8 tapered nipple. Meaning 1/8 each end. You won’t know for sure what thread your hole is until you remove nipple.

Many have broken straight thread timing cover installing tapered oil pressure switch or using tapered nipple!

However a skilled mechanic can often get away with using tapered male thread in straight hole using good sealant & deft touch tightening. Don’t count on it’s risky!!

The nipple was used for needle type gauge fitted to a 90 deg fitting, or to a oil line adapter for bar mounted gauge or the like.

What is your plans now, meaning oil pressure switch gauge, blanking plug?


Should you want pressure switch for oil pressure light the pats book is often wrong!!!

Straight thread switch is 99-0772

Tapered switch 60-2133

Blanking plug 70-2615 is 3/8-26 thread. Sellers claim 69-73. It will screw in, but is it right?

My ‘70 TR6C had blanking plug. What was part #??
That’s all I know about this.
Don


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some form of 27 tpi would be expected .
maybe someone wanted to add a tee , now missing ?

or more likely ran a remote oil pressure gauge .
and not having the perfect connection kit
needed the stub to connect with the tubing they were using
[Linked Image from britcycle.com]

maybe they used a tee , now missing , to run the idiot light and a gauge at the same time .

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Nick H Offline OP
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Thanks for all the great replies! I see Alan is having similar issues with a BSA.
I tried to fit a 1/8 NPT cap but it started to bind quickly. Can't find a straight thread cap.
Nervous about trying to force it out as it could be locktited.

Almost forgot that I had taken off this beauty.
For now maybe I'll shine it up and put it back on as a conversation piece.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Engine came off this Ebay find:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


1966 BSA Lightning
(2) 1967 Triumph "Choppa"s
1974 Indian ME125
1960 Harley Servi-Car
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Might have been helpful to have seen that from the start. Thanks for posting it now. Taking the rubber sleeve off would be even better.

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Again, that’s 1/8 NPT. I can see the taper from here, and you won’t find any other common fitting that’s fully threaded like that. If a cap bound up, the threads are beat up. Anything NPS is pretty much obsolete for pressure applications, and requires an o-ring or other face seal when you find them. Remove the nipple, determine what threads you have and go from there.

Chris

Last edited by Chris Johnson; 04/24/21 2:00 am.
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Hi All, The TR6C Trophy had the plug in timing cover ‘69 & '70. John’s ‘69 Bonnie had straight thread.

I know for a fact British straight pipe 26 threads will screw into 27 but it feels wrong. My oil pressure test set had that. Can you locate cap an original Triumph one for ‘69 on? That might be simplest route? A search shows from all sellers I could find they use 3/8-26 thread plug.

Does anyone have a plug they could check threads on?
Don

Last edited by TR7RVMan; 04/24/21 3:51 am. Reason: changed sentence

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I got fed up with the Mickey Mouse pressure switches supplied by the Bike shops. In the end I ran an M10X1 tap into the cover and fitted a metric switch. Did this to both my 66 650's.


And pray that there's intelligent life somewhere up in space
'Cause there's bugger all down here on Earth'

An interesting point given recent events.

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lol [Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
this is that very special bike , build of bits and bobs ... with a battery riding pillion .

that pipe stub could very well be a piece from a lamp or Chandelier .
lamps use 1/8" IPS thread ... an extremely common but less-accounted for thread form .
most us have a piece of this pipe left-over from a light -fixture , in a junk drawer ...
... a normal pipe cap , in lamp language , is called a finial [Linked Image from cdn.shopify.com]

IPS thread is ( Iron pipe straight) ... the same as british non-tapered thread ...
somewhere in the past they have a common ancestor . ( early town gas pipe ? )

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Originally Posted by koan58
Might have been helpful to have seen that from the start. Thanks for posting it now. Taking the rubber sleeve off would be even better.
Not rubber.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
(Weed legal in Mass)

Last edited by Nick H; 04/24/21 12:33 pm.

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1974 Indian ME125
1960 Harley Servi-Car
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Hi, Isn't Iron pipe straight same as National Pipe Straight? Lamp pipe parts are also NPS same thread size & tpi just like the normal NPS pipe. The wall thickness may vary though.

The fitting that was on the bike is a hodge podge of common pipe fittings that are sold at most hardware stores in USA. This looks like the set up some would use for gauge mounted near front of timing cover. There obviously would be simpler way of doing this. Probably putting 90 into timing cover didn't give clearance. They seemed to use what was at hand.

Regarding finding a 1/8-27 straight hex plug is pretty much impossible. I wanted an adaptor to use with my oil pressure test gauge. I gave up trying to find one. Finally bought a 1/8-27 NPS tap & die to make one. It worked good. Don't really have use for the tap, but I have one in case I do.

Lamp parts triggered a thought. What about lamp parts? Close as I could find. Not enough threads....

https://www.grandbrass.com/item/fi1%2F8plugnp/

Don


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I would heat the case around that fitting and carefully try to unscrew it with some Vice Grip pliers. With any luck you'll only need some sealant to use a new pressure switch.


Knowledge speaks. Wisdom listens.

72 T120V cafe project "Mr. Jim"
72 T150V "Wotan"
92 BMW K100rs "Gustav"
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Nick H Offline OP
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Lamp parts don't surprise me at all. Saw this on the lamp parts link TR7RVMan provided which looks like the bowl on my hash pipe:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Other parts resemble auto hydraulic brake fittings and brake line pinched closed.

I will take the sensible advice to carefully remove the threaded piece and fit a stock switch.
But will it be the straight or tapered?


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There are certainly more elegant ways to adapt for a pressure gauge.

Looking at the first 2 or 3 threads on that adaptor-insert, I wouldn’t worry about trying to save it. Just want to get it out and see what the thread is, and how far it penetrates the case.
That will guide your choice of taper or straight switch.

Possibly some sort of thread sealant(or Loctite) was used on installation, so it might be worth torching the adaptor and surround to >100 degC, then applying a mole wrench/pipe wrench.
There looks to be a bit of plain shank nearest the case, perhaps get a grip on that?

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Originally Posted by Nick H
Lamp parts don't surprise me at all. Saw this on the lamp parts link TR7RVMan provided which looks like the bowl on my hash pipe:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
I had a few bongs and pipes which were made using similar fittings back in my youth.
Kinda begs the question, "What were they smoking?" laughing


Knowledge speaks. Wisdom listens.

72 T120V cafe project "Mr. Jim"
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Nick H Offline OP
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Only thing this thread is missing
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


1966 BSA Lightning
(2) 1967 Triumph "Choppa"s
1974 Indian ME125
1960 Harley Servi-Car

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