Well, let's see, it has been a while since I posted. The snow melted in Alaska but it is still low to mid 40's most of the day, and I made the mistake of figuring out the wind chill to be -19 at 50 mph, the one day I went riding (it was danged cold) so I haven't really ridden much yet, so it is still good garage weather.
On my '79 T140D, I had slipping problems with the 7 plate clutch. Turns out I have been using a super slippery moly grease in the garage, and I used that on the rollers in the clutch, and it got on and soaked into the clutch fiber plates with its special slickum. It pretty much reacted like I had put some kind of super slippery modern oil in the primary--the clutch slipped. Had to fix that, obviously. Put new T140 springs on it, and while I was working on the clutch, I replaced the complete clutch center. No grease on the rollers this time. It truly works nice now, perhaps the best Triumph clutch I have ever had.
I mounted my AMAL
Mk 2s, with Euro jetting (3-1/2 cutaway slide, 106 needle jets, 2A1 needle in the middle, 15 pilot, 35 choke jet, 120 mains, removed the air jet, and some Uni sock air filters) and got a chance to ride it to see how they worked. Wow, what a difference, the JRC Keihin flatslides had worked nicely, but this set of Mk 2s worked really, really well, with better power everywhere bottom to top. I can see why people like these carbs. I have a thread on the forks so I will do that there.
Also on the T140D, the change from a 47 (4.7:1 ratio) to a 45 (4.5:1 ratio) tooth rear sprocket was nice, it is getting the gear ratio closer to what I wanted. Everything is a compromise, and still gets away from stop signs well, but it is a little fast in second gear in the neighborhood at 3000 (I like to ride at least at 3000 to keep the battery
from running down). On the other hand it is maybe not quite as relaxed at higher speeds as I wanted, so I will try a 21 tooth counter at some point. That will give me something like a 4.3 ratio, which is about what I think I would like to try. Oh, it got a headlight bulb too--I always ride with the lights on and they go quickly.
Finally, the drain plug stripped so I replaced the sump plate with a Charlie’s filter, the British one using a modified stock plate and an acorn nut projecting out the bottom. That nut hits the center stand—any recommendations how to solve that?
The 70 T120--same 7 plate clutch slipping problem, same cause, same fix. Sheesh, I will never use that slippery moly grease on clutch rollers again--nothing but JASO 2 oil.... And again, while I was in there, I replaced the clutch center.
I think I already posted on most of the winter's fixes on the 68 Spitfire Mk 4, so I'll wait on that until I ride it. It also got a new clutch center. All of them were grooved and the rubbers were all dead, it was time, and I was tired of the way these 50 year old clutches work (or don't work) in that condition. It also just got an oil change and new battery
The 73 Commando
awaits the stand getting empty. I am not sure I want to spend the time now to replace the front isolastic gaiters, that is a sort of major job, maybe that will happen next winter. I got a new stainless fender for it the other day--the original rear fender has been broken since I got this bike in 1989, and I thought I would finally fix it, since it has continued to crack and now it would need welding if I kept the old one. And it needs a headlight bulb, and the warning light assimilator, and a fresh bolt for the sidestand. But then again, I might just ride it like it is until fall and do all this then (except the headlight).