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Appears to be on some applications that you may have to run a diode


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Come on guys, let's hear some long-term reviews ! Diode or no diode I need to know if the pattern through a stock lens is adequate or better. Is the brightness blinding oncoming traffic on a dark night? Do they flicker? Do they last? Are they worth the price? -BA PS- What is an "ET machine"? ty

Last edited by BAinLA; 01/29/21 1:42 pm.


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Originally Posted by BAinLA
PS- What is an "ET machine"?
ET means Energy Transfer. It was used on competition machines and provided 6V alternating current to power the lights. The original lighting was weak so ET guys would appreciate an easy upgrade to bright LED lights if possible.

A non polarity conscious LED bulb sounds like it would fit the bill because it implies that it will work with + or - ground systems. Since AC power continually changes from + to -, it's possible a LED bulb would work but I don't think anyone has reported on this yet. Magnetoman may at some point report his findings because he is curious about the possibility himself.

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Originally Posted by Stuart Kirk
Originally Posted by BAinLA
PS- What is an "ET machine"?
ET means Energy Transfer. It was used on competition machines and provided 6V alternating current to power the lights. The original lighting was weak so ET guys would appreciate an easy upgrade to bright LED lights if possible.

A non polarity conscious LED bulb sounds like it would fit the bill because it implies that it will work with + or - ground systems. Since AC power continually changes from + to -, it's possible a LED bulb would work but I don't think anyone has reported on this yet. Magnetoman may at some point report his findings because he is curious about the possibility himself.

Thanks for explaining that to me Stuart.

I'm not very interested in theory at this point since I have a bike sitting here that I can't (won't actually) ride until I replace the burnt out BPF Lucas 370 45/35 bulb. The guys that purchased LED for a stock config. classic need to report back, please! -BA

Last edited by BAinLA; 01/29/21 10:44 pm.


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I spent some time deciphering the 446 LED issue and found the answer which I tell our customers about. If your bike has a high beam warning light you must fit a diode to it to let the low/high beam switch work. The warning light path let's the LED decide the power is coming from the warning light instead of the switch (remember it's logic chip is looking for positive or negative ground). Install a diode between the warning light and its ground so current cannot come from the ground to the LED. I recommend the small spade fuse type used for Ford air conditioning compressors as using an in-line fuse holder keeps the assembly small enough to hide in the headlight shell.


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Originally Posted by The Bonneville Shop
I spent some time deciphering the 446 LED issue and found the answer which I tell our customers about. If your bike has a high beam warning light you must fit a diode to it to let the low/high beam switch work. The warning light path let's the LED decide the power is coming from the warning light instead of the switch (remember it's logic chip is looking for positive or negative ground). Install a diode between the warning light and its ground so current cannot come from the ground to the LED. I recommend the small spade fuse type used for Ford air conditioning compressors as using an in-line fuse holder keeps the assembly small enough to hide in the headlight shell.

Great, thank you sir. When I do the upgrade I will do just as you describe. Still not sure what to use for a lens/reflector but I'll worry about that when the time comes.-Brian



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Can someone explain what wire in the headlight shell should I be looking for to install the diode?

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