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So, right spark plug is running rich af. Flat black carbon build up on right spark plug. Left plug is color of toast with very light signs of white ash on arm. After cool primed start up it will idle for a moment without any throttle. It won’t sputter at all but will suddenly stop as if the flooded prime in throat of carb ran out. Kicked over again no prime with some throttle it cranks back up. After warm up it has trouble idling when coming to a stop. It is rather nerve racking having to turn up throttle while squeezing front brake as I come to a rolling stop. This (warm) IS when it sputters to a kill unlike the cool start.

I have:
1. Cleaned and Rotated plugs still same results.
2. Cleaned carb bowl by removing bottom plug and sprayed with carb cleaner.
3. Moved air mixture screw out for leaner mixture (this is when the light ash now on left side while right is still heavy carbon).
4. Sprayed carb cleaner around all carb gaskets looking for leaks via engine kill. No leak.
5. New air filter.

Should I unscrew jet from bottom bowl plug and spray cleaner up? Remove air adjust screw and blow out orifice with cleaner? I’m thinking the prime tickler could not be sealing all the way up after pushed being on that right side. Does the primer flood from center of throat or from somewhere on the right side near button?

Don’t know how important or if there is a connection but before the rebuild the readings where just the opposite with lean on the right and rich on left. Then the right wrist pin cracked piston skirt and came out. This was the reason for nearly complete rebuild.

Last edited by splash; 03/13/21 11:27 pm.

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As you only have one carb your problem is probably not carb related. Don't remember if you have points or EI. Points might cause that mixed plug condition. Or plug wires. Or valve adjustment. Is compression about the same on both sides?


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splash Offline OP
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No, compression is slightly higher on right side last time I checked. I have points. Maybe I should start there 🤷🏻‍♂️. Right side does miss it seems as left side is on time. After cleaning the right carbon fouled plug it still misses. I’m good on valve clearance also. That was one of the first things I checked.

Hot compression test:

60/90/120 right side under 5 kicks

60/90/110 10 kicks (Left side)

Last edited by splash; 03/14/21 8:16 am.

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Compression is close enough. Why, in 2021, would anyone still be running points in one of these old turds?


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splash Offline OP
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Inexpensive and original 🤷🏻‍♂️

Don’t know much about electronic ignition.

Last edited by splash; 03/14/21 4:45 pm.

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I replied to your PM but I don't know if I did it right. I'm old. Let me know if you got it.


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EI is easy. It either works or it doesn't.


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Hi Desco, Points allow starting with dead battery, & running with low battery. You can fully loose spark on one side & keep moving under its own power.
If you ride in remote areas with no cell service that can be important. Occasionally we ride were no other vehicles pass for a week.
I don’t know what splash has done with electrical system, but prior in was a mess. All the wiring issues need proper repair. That is a foundation of good operation.

Properly serviced points work fine. EI relies on good electrical system even more than points.
Don


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TR
I have ridden in parts of Nevada, Idaho and Mexico where I never saw any sign of civilization for hours on end. Once in Nevada after hours of no towns, no cars, no nothing I thought "what the hell am I doing here"? I imagined the head line in the paper," bones found bleaching in the sun next to nice old Triumph". This before cell service. Screw points.


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I have been around the US extensively and I believe there hasn't been any civilisation there since about 1776


Sorry I couldn't resist it - no offence intended!! Please don't shoot me.......


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splash Offline OP
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I’m offended. You have not said if you were on a bike with or without points. We don’t have any kangaroos to throw boomerangs at over here in our parts of anti-people civilization. 😁 just snakes and scorpions here and there so they don’t count as civilization 😁. When did y’all start counting the kangaroos in y’all civilization? At what age can a Joey buy a beer?

All jokes aside, the whole world is still at civilization level 0.

Last edited by splash; 03/15/21 6:32 am.

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Originally Posted by desco
TR
I have ridden in parts of Nevada, Idaho and Mexico where I never saw any sign of civilization for hours on end. Once in Nevada after hours of no towns, no cars, no nothing I thought "what the hell am I doing here"? I imagined the head line in the paper," bones found bleaching in the sun next to nice old Triumph". This before cell service. Screw points.

You would be able to get those points working though ok enough to get you out of that Desert, with EI youd have had no chance of fixing it.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

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Originally Posted by desco
TR
I have ridden in parts of Nevada, Idaho and Mexico where I never saw any sign of civilization for hours on end. Once in Nevada after hours of no towns, no cars, no nothing I thought "what the hell am I doing here"? I imagined the head line in the paper," bones found bleaching in the sun next to nice old Triumph". This before cell service. Screw points.

You're kidding right? They'd find your bleaching bones next to a set of recent truck tire tracks and 'NO' nice old Triumph but only a small puddle of oil....

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https://hermit.cc/tmc/technote/igtiming/index.htm

I found this very informative tech help. Under the static timing I got lost at (5/G).

Under dynamic timing #4 where are the marks? I can only find one mark on the timing cam lobe.


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Been using the points that were in my T100R when it was parked in the 80's and 33,000 miles later I'm still using them. They are Lucas. When I travel, I carry a spare set of Lucas original points, and a spare condenser which, of course, means I will never need them as long as they are in the bag just like the new tube and tire irons. I have experienced a bagged battery on a cold night in November 80 miles away from home with points and arrived home without a problem except that I couldn't use the heated vest if I also wanted to have lights when I came to a stop light.

Of course, I only use film to make photographs and draw pictures with pencils and pen and ink so, as I approach my 80th birthday, I guess I'm just too old to change......As an old classic bike restorer/machinist friend says " If it ain't broke, don't fix it " a lesson I have learned finally.

Cheers, Wilf


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On the static timing, think about what you are trying to do. You have set the engine to the fully advanced timing positio, now you want the points to be JUST starting to open at this point. By holding the cam to full advance (clockwise) the piece of ciggy paper should be just staring to release from the points, you are rotating the points plate so that this happens at the right time. On the dynamic timing, the writer has assumed you know what you are doing! The timing marks for strobing are on the drive side, where a pointer has to align with the mark on the alternator rotor. This is pictured very clearly in the service Manual.
HTH

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Come to think of it, I have not been stranded by either points or EI in almost 50 years of Triumph's. It's just the never ending messing with points I can't stand. I used to ride a lot and it was every few weeks in the garage adjusting.


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Tinkerer too, is this at TDC of the combustion stroke with the cig paper? Then says rotate 360 degrees...? Well isn’t this back where we adjusted the same points??? Should it not be 180 degrees?

I got it running with trial and error but my primary plate is way off to one side almost maxed out of travel. 🤷🏻‍♂️ I turned timing side secondary while running at idle to max RPMs and locked it down there. Drive side sounded good so I barely messed with secondary on that side while at idle.

Last edited by splash; 03/17/21 7:41 am.

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Should be at 38 deg before TDC on the compression stroke, with the breaker cam locked fully clockwise.

The breaker cam moves at half the rate of the crankshaft, so when 360 deg crank is mentioned, that means the other set of breakers at 180 deg camshaft are concerned.

If you're just guessing your timing you are taking enormous risks, and no diagnosis is possible.

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splash Offline OP
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Ok, at the 38 degrees mark in flywheel (first mark) this is where you line up the contact breaker arm with...? Line on cam after advancing clockwise? Or is this where you adjust the gap to where only a piece of paper can fit between points and this is on which ever piston is on the compression stroke?

Is it not preignition if it is firing 38 degrees before TDC? Something else I didn’t understand.

Last edited by splash; 03/17/21 1:53 am.

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Originally Posted by desco
Compression is close enough. Why, in 2021, would anyone still be running points in one of these old turds?
All right Desco. I respect a man who speaks his mind.

But. all my "old turds" have points, partly because I am cheap but also because they can be fixed out on a desert ride if something goes wrong. Several times over the years, I have seen electronic ignitions fail out in the middle of nowhere. It's awkward. At least points give you a chance to get things going again.
And, (I probably shouldn't say this) but I have not had a terminal ignition system failure in years, using all Lucas components.

So I guess that is my reason. I'm sure others have their reasons too.

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https://ibb.co/wSbhGDn

In photo, after centering the pillar bolts, I try to set the timing side secondary point plate. Flywheel is at 38 degree BTDC notch and timing side piston top of compression stroke almost at combustion stroke. I am advancing timing holding clockwise with screw driver. Notice there is nowhere the arm of the timing side points are touching the cam. I can fully deflect secondary plate on timing side in both directions and arm still does not touch rotor cam. Points stay completely closed.


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Hi splash, set the 0.015” gap when the points are closed, if you try and set the gap when the cam is on the ramp you will never open the points.

You’ll need to strobe time each cylinder after setting the timing, there’s little chance that you’ll get it spot on by eye alone. That said a well setup set of points run sweet as a nut and are still my preferred use... the only reason I don’t use points any more is I haven’t got the time to keep on top of keeping them in time. The points on my little Honda 4 hardly ever need touching and they operate off the crank so work twice as much for the same revs as they do on my beeza, yet still the beeza needed much more attention to keep them in tune.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

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Originally Posted by splash
https://ibb.co/wSbhGDn

In photo, after centering the pillar bolts, I try to set the timing side secondary point plate. Flywheel is at 38 degree BTDC notch and timing side piston top of compression stroke almost at combustion stroke. I am advancing timing holding clockwise with screw driver. Notice there is nowhere the arm of the timing side points are touching the cam. I can fully deflect secondary plate on timing side in both directions and arm still does not touch rotor cam. Points stay completely closed.


That left hand set of points looks like it makes contact at the top but not the bottom. I’d be looking at using some 800 wet and dry folded over a few times and run them through the points, effectively sanding some
Of the contact material away and ensuring you get a good flat closure across the whole of the points.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

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