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Mmmm ... without knowing what the problem/s is/are, lots of money doesn't fix problems except by chance. The aforementioned 43-year-old 4V coils are connected to original (i.e. 46-year-old) HT leads and plastic Champion plug covers ... on the basis of "If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It" ...

These components were not replaced to resolve any specific issue, they were simply intrinsic parts of a wider restoration where the original items were either missing, beyond service or simply upgraded to newer items to take advantage of technological progress since 1975.
Although I will admit being a victim of the endorphin rush of receiving and opening new shiny parts !

That aside and with my sensible head on, I simply couldn't see the point for example, in overhauling the original AMAL Carbs ( the time, expense, variation of outcome ) against simply buying brand new items and taking out all the possibilities of variance further down the line.
The cost benefit points to buying new every time but in saying that, I'm not an originality obsessive though I do understand that view in principle, I just feel that a T160 is probably not that "valuable" in that respect.
But hey, I'm a sucker for a rusty patina, maintained not restored classic when I see one.

Incidentally---do you live in Northampton itself or on the outskirts?
For many years I lived on the Northampton side of Rugby in a little village called Grandborough.
Small world eh?

Trident Man, yep I know Grandborough. I'm South N'hants right on the border with North Bucks. Still good motorcycling country and easy access to the Cotswolds and even nicer roads and routes although everywhere starting to be the victim of ever creeping industrial and housing developments.
Oh for time machine to go back to the 70's, having said that I couldn't afford a T160 then, ha.

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I questioned the value of changing to premieres, but last night when I fired her up for the first time after fitting them and she went easily to idle I was smiling, cost long forgotten. I'd got them about 6 months ago when I realized spares were running thin all over the place. Even then I had the get the slightly more expensive light aluminium ones. They really are amazingly light, but that idle....😊


3D TV: A format that lost a format war without even having an opponent.
Bikes: '69 T120 on average (1967 rolling frame and 1971 Bonnie engine) + '56 1/2 T110 on average (58 rolling frame - with 55 iron head engine) + 74 T150 Home model.
SJS #841754 03/03/21 1:30 pm
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Hi Steve,
Originally Posted by SJS
simply upgraded to newer items to take advantage of technological progress since 1975.
The cost benefit points to buying new every time
Replacing the carbs., thumbsup because the current AMAL licencee does make better even than new ones in 1975.

Otoh, there hasn't been a single step of progress in the standard electrical components. Even if you don't buy, say, a 'Wassell Lucas' harness, the 'better' ones are still exact copies of what 'original Lucas' made 35+ years ago, which was crap. frown What NVT had Lucas supply them for the T160 was old tech. in 1975; NVT had Lucas supply better even for the contemporary Commando; that standard T160 wiring is still peddled in the second and third decades of the 21st century is proof-positive of at least the first part of the well-known Abraham Lincoln quote ... If you want to take advantage of at least a half-century of electrical progress, to paraphrase the punchline of an 'Irish' joke, 'fraid you're wasting your money starting with the standard electrics.

Hth.

Regards,

SJS #841758 03/03/21 2:22 pm
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Originally Posted by SJS
The aforementioned 43-year-old 4V coils are connected to original (i.e. 46-year-old) HT leads and plastic Champion plug covers ... on the basis of "If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It" ...

(Assuming mean 6V coils)

In which case those HT leads could be resistor wire as the caps aren't?

T160 parts book:
"60-3924...51320144...Lead-high tension (resistive) ...3...Except N. America"

Boyer Bransden recommends copper HT leads.
http://www.boyerbransden.com/faq.html
"For all our motorcycle ignition systems, copper wire leads with 5000 Ohm suppressed plug cap is our preferred method, although the MK4* systems can be used without any suppression on the H.T. leads if required. When using Suppressed spark plugs, non-supressed caps are recommended. We don't recommend carbon core HT leads because the resistance of the core will vary with the length used and can increase greatly with vibration and age. Although this increasing resistance should not damage an ignition unit, the ignition coil will work at higher voltage and the spark at the plug will become progressively weaker as the core degrades. All Micro Power kits are supplied with copper core HT lead."

*(and MkIII)

SJS #841760 03/03/21 2:33 pm
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I had to fit a new loom as the "original" one was a mess of 30 years of other peoples tinkering and the degrading from the passage of time.
Last thing you want to see is your pride and joy go up in flames due to dodgy old electrics.
The replacement "Lucas" loom I purchased, I had no problem with at all, in fact it was a whole lot easier than I thought it would be to fit.
The quality of the wiring, connectors etc was spot on, in that respect I can't really see how it could have been improved on unless you are referring to the actual design of the system but that was surely just "of its day".

Surely you must view the Madigan Starter Motor as a vast improvement on the original ?
I certainly do.

I agree with your point about the current "misuse" of the Lucas Brand name, although some might say thats difficult do, Prince of Darkness comes to mind !
But I thinks its misleading and I have a well documented thread on here regarding so called "Lucas Girling" brake calipers.
But on the other hand, maybe we should just be grateful that spares, regardless, are still available for our era of bikes, other more obscure, lower volume produced bikes don't have that luxury.

Ya pays ya money, you makes ya choice.

Off to Clive Scarfe now, he's got a new easy tick over adjustment gizmo for T160's.
More new shiny bits to anticipate the arrival off.
Not much else to look forward to until this flipping "lockdown" ends !

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Hi Les,
Originally Posted by L.A.B.
Originally Posted by SJS
The aforementioned 43-year-old 4V coils are connected to original (i.e. 46-year-old) HT leads and plastic Champion plug covers ... on the basis of "If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It" ...
Regrettably, "SJS" Steve quoted my post #841700 by copying instead of clicking on the "Quote" button, so the "43-year-old 4V coils" are the ones fitted with Rita to my first T160 in 1978, and the "original ... HT leads and plastic Champion plug covers" are just that.

Hth.

Regards,

SJS #841768 03/03/21 4:01 pm
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Hi Steve,
Originally Posted by SJS
replacement "Lucas" loom
The quality of the wiring, connectors etc was spot on,
You at least got one made by Autosparks (Wassell can do worse). Nevertheless, I hate to rain on your parade but the wiring quality is not "spot on", it's barely adequate ... because the boss of Autosparks told me he copies the original Lucas wire sizes, just in modern metric. So, for example:-

. The main Brown/Blue wire - that's common to every circuit - is undersize, because 'original Lucas' made it that way ... frown

. Are there one or two Red wires connected to battery +ve? If so, that's the fire hazard you didn't want; 'original Lucas' made it that way and NVT issued a Service Bulletin in May 1975 to correct it.

. The loom had separate connections for rectifier and Zener diode, even though current new Zeners are unreliable and reg./rec. have been around almost as long as T160's.

. The loom had all the wires to connect each coil to points, and the ballast resistor, and its bypass when electric starting; you had to cut off and/or tape up most of that, even though electronic ignition has been commercially-available for Triumphs longer than T160's ...

You might've had to replace the original loom, but 'fraid you haven't "taken advantage of technological progress since 1975" and your thread indicates the necessary modifications have made a home for several gremlins?

Originally Posted by SJS
Surely you must view the Madigan Starter Motor as a vast improvement on the original ?
I certainly do.
Based on what? Dave's one of The Good Guys but the originals on my T160's still do what it says on the tin - "If It Aint Broke, Don't Fix It" ...

Originally Posted by SJS
current "misuse" of the Lucas Brand name, although some might say thats difficult do, Prince of Darkness comes to mind !
on the other hand, maybe we should just be grateful that spares,
I refuse to be "grateful" for junk. People like Dave Madigan, Clive Scarfe and companies like L.A.P. show all this stuff can be made to bolt on (pretty-much). It isn't that Wassell and similar can't also ensure their stuff bolts on (pretty-much), it's that they can't be arsed; they'd rather pimp old British automotive component makers' names to rip off the gullible end of the human spectrum.

Originally Posted by SJS
Clive Scarfe now, he's got a new easy tick over adjustment gizmo for T160's.
Mmmm ... I always knew that as "a spanner" ... cool

Hth.

Regards,

SJS #841793 03/03/21 8:53 pm
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Ha Stuart, I know well about your infatuation with beloved Lucas Rita system, unfortunately no longer available. Talking about Lucas products, specifically wiring my opinion changed with time - now I think it's really well made and a main problem were penny pinching bike manufacturers, not Lucas itself.
Together with my original coils I have original HT wires and caps and main part of the original loom and it still works well, however I had to discard a big part of it going to Trispark ign system, 3 phase alternator and solid state regulator rectifier.

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Originally Posted by Stuart
Hi Steve,
Originally Posted by SJS
replacement "Lucas" loom
The quality of the wiring, connectors etc was spot on,
You at least got one made by Autosparks (Wassell can do worse). Nevertheless, I hate to rain on your parade but the wiring quality is not "spot on", it's barely adequate ... because the boss of Autosparks told me he copies the original Lucas wire sizes, just in modern metric. So, for example:-

Thats interesting, I recently purchased a brand new wiring loom for my 1981 Morgan +8 from Autosparks

. The main Brown/Blue wire - that's common to every circuit - is undersize, because 'original Lucas' made it that way ... frown

. Are there one or two Red wires connected to battery +ve? If so, that's the fire hazard you didn't want; 'original Lucas' made it that way and NVT issued a Service Bulletin in May 1975 to correct it.

. The loom had separate connections for rectifier and Zener diode, even though current new Zeners are unreliable and reg./rec. have been around almost as long as T160's.

I've done away with the Zenor diode and upgraded to 3 phase star and Podtronics unit so that bypasses that little lot

. The loom had all the wires to connect each coil to points, and the ballast resistor, and its bypass when electric starting; you had to cut off and/or tape up most of that, even though electronic ignition has been commercially-available for Triumphs longer than T160's ...

You might've had to replace the original loom, but 'fraid you haven't "taken advantage of technological progress since 1975" and your thread indicates the necessary modifications have made a home for several gremlins?

When I mentioned taking advantages of new tech I was speaking in overall general terms, not specifically the wiring though things like the Podtronics and 3 phase stator, Gel batteries are an improvement on the originals, likewise the AP Racing Calipers and lighter brake discs I have fitted, oh and Hagon adjustable shocks. This is developing into Monty Pythons what did the Romans ever do for us sketch !

Originally Posted by SJS
Surely you must view the Madigan Starter Motor as a vast improvement on the original ?
I certainly do.
Based on what? Dave's one of The Good Guys but the originals on my T160's still do what it says on the tin - "If It Aint Broke, Don't Fix It" ...

Based on your old ones shagged out and is not worth the expense to refurb, weighs a ton and Dave's DOES do the job far better than the original as you have managed to acknowledge.

Originally Posted by SJS
current "misuse" of the Lucas Brand name, although some might say thats difficult do, Prince of Darkness comes to mind !
on the other hand, maybe we should just be grateful that spares,
I refuse to be "grateful" for junk. People like Dave Madigan, Clive Scarfe and companies like L.A.P. show all this stuff can be made to bolt on (pretty-much). It isn't that Wassell and similar can't also ensure their stuff bolts on (pretty-much), it's that they can't be arsed; they'd rather pimp old British automotive component makers' names to rip off the gullible end of the human spectrum.

You're obviously a more discerning punter Stuart and much wiser than us mere gullible types.

Originally Posted by SJS
Clive Scarfe now, he's got a new easy tick over adjustment gizmo for T160's.
Mmmm ... I always knew that as "a spanner" ... cool

Clives Gizmo merely requires a twiddle of the fingers whilst sat on the bike, far easier than faffing around with a spanner trying to access the awkward original adjuster. I'm not certain but I think thats why Clive designed and marketed it ....... to be an improvement.

Hopefully I've got the hang of the quote facility now as well.
Hth.

Regards,

SJS #841824 03/04/21 5:20 am
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As far as plugs go, I've never used anything but Champion N3 on my Tridents. I tried some B7EV and B7EX on the A65. They didn't seem to make much difference, maybe they last longer?
I've never had a Boyer on a Trident. My first one got a Rita soon after I bought it. As mentioned, that kit came with 4V coils. The Rita lasted longer than the engine. I still have everything but the rotor, If I can find one of those I might be tempted to use it again. As I remember Mistral advised against using resistor plugs or caps in the fitting instructions, but that was in 1980.
My current '72 came with 4V coils, and points! crazy
I just happened to have three 12V coils, so I fitted those to fire it up. Then I bought a Tri Spark with the separate black box. So far, so good, except the black box now lives where the tool roll is supposed to go.
The wiring is original, with the original charging system. All I've done is to disconnect and reconnect the bullets and put some dielectric grease into each. It even charges with an H4 headlight, for now.


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72 T120V cafe project "Mr. Jim"
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SJS #841851 03/04/21 12:08 pm
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Stuart, lets start again, as I think we are drifting massively off point.

Firstly, to set the wider scene of which you cannot obviously be aware but may now enlighten things.
When I purchased my T160, it was a fairly recent US import and was sold "as a project" due to its condition of having been stood for a very long time, plus it was incomplete in respect of various parts.

It necessitated, with the exception of the lower engine, a full frame up restoration, hence the many new parts and indeed upgrades that have been fitted, so for example, despite your obvious knowledgable expertise of the inadequacies of certain aspects of the original electrics, I had little choice in the matter but to replace with whats currently available as alternatives and for which indeed, 95% of, I have no complaints, nor have I proffered any.

If in your experienced view, those new alternatives in someway repeat the "problems" of the past then surely thats down to a lack of innovation and benefit hindsight of those currently now producing such items but hey, that was the very approach of the British Motorcycle Industry back in the day and which ultimately caused their demise.

In the defence of some of these new after market manufacturers and with specific regard to wiring looms, the various new optional innovations now available, like Podtronics for example, make it difficult, without offering a bespoke product at great expense, for those manufacturers to account for all eventualities so they go for the default original to provide a uniform product which satisfies the largest demand.
If as an individual with a more bespoke system that does not require certain aspects of the original design, either don't use them ( wheres the problem there ? ) or devise your own bespoke loom. In my view, its not a deficiency on the part of the current manufacturer.

So back to my original post, for which LAB's valuable advice ( again ), steered me down an easy alternative route to a procedural issue, not a fault issue.
In the course of that procedural issue, I had to replace the spark plugs with like for like that I had in stock whereupon the bike runs perfectly satisfactory and therein I have no "problem" as such to solve.

I consequently pondered as to whether the apparent short life span of those replaced plugs MAY have been something to do with the Boyer system placing some sort of additional demand on them which you and others more qualified in such areas, eloquently concluded that was unlikely to be the case, "ponder" duly sorted.

Being of a naturally inquisitive nature, I further pondered ( you'll gather I do a lot of pondering ) that these new fandagled Iridium Spark Plugs that I see mentioned everywhere, with claims of providing a stronger spark, could possibly be worth a try, the Jury on that seems to be out, so without being flippant on the cost, which was an over estimate anyway, I thought it might be worth a shout on a nothing to lose / may improve basis.
The principle on which all engineering innovation progresses.
We can theorise 'till the cows come home but in the end you can't beat giving something a go in the search for marginal gains and improvements.

Back to your Starter comments.
You appear to have a totally original bike with all of its original factory components in excellent working condition and good for you but a wooden wheel "does the same job" as a carbon fibre wheel but one does the job a whole lot better !

If tomorrow your starter motor packed up and proved to be terminal in terms of repair, what are your choices ?
Chuck it and just use the kick start ( kick start's cool by the way ), buy a second hand original, refurb it maybe to be sure or purchase a nice new shiny Madigan one which is significantly lighter, more compact and with the benefit of electrical innovation since 1975, is proven to be far more superior in doing the same job.
For me, its a no brainer, but hey, as I said before, you pays your money and makes your choice.

I don't accept that all Wassel stuff is rubbish, they have their place in the market and live and die financially accordingly but I do take your point on the quality differences but again, you pays your money and makes your choice or maybe you simply cannot justify the outlay of a more expensive equivalent.
My own personal bone of contention, which indeed you touched upon, is when you can be mislead by a false misrepresentation of them using an historic brand name out of context but one assumes that they have not crossed any legal boundaries in doing so, its a tad disingenuous to blame the naivety of the buyer acting in good faith.

So to summarise, I don't have a problem to resolve, it was more speculative inquisitiveness which the took on its own momentum beyond the original enquiry but for which I'm grateful, as always, for the comments, advice, recommendations or otherwise from all those who have commented.

Maybe its me Stuart, I'm more of a "glass half full" kinda bloke and as a consequence I interpreted some of your comments as a tad negative, criticism is always to be welcomed but I feel it needs to constructive.

Maybe you should channel your obvious expertise and knowledge into addressing the many deficiencies in the products as you see them, therein offering a win win outcome for all, ala Dave Madigan ( sorry to keep dragging you in as my case prove example Dave ) just a thought but interesting chatting with you regardless.

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Coming back to short lived NGK plugs from your question I just remembered they don't like to be used for start an engine only, they need to get to engine operating temperature ( so in Trident example 15 - 20 minutes ride ) to start properly next time. So if you just managed to start your engine for a short time, you could kill them quickly.

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Hi Adam,
Originally Posted by Adam M.
I know well about your infatuation with beloved Lucas Rita system, unfortunately no longer available.
You are mistaken, Rita is available if desired; just takes a bit more effort than clicking on "Add To Cart", "Go To Checkout" and typing in a credit card number ...

However, more to the point, you haven't understood what has been posted:-

. Your post #841677:-
Originally Posted by Adam M.
points ign system fires only one spark plug for a cylinder working in this particular moment, Boyer system fires 3 spark plugs every time one of the cylinders works - hence the difference in quality of spark between them, Trispark system again fires only one spark plug for a working cylinder.
... this is incorrect extrapolation and Steve The OP's subsequent post #841692 shows you also misled him.

. To repost the explanation in my post #841700, it makes not a blind bit of difference whether an EI on a triple fires one coil or three as long as multiple coils in series are '4V'. My posts #841619 and #841663 encourage Steve The OP (and anyone else who cares) to buy '4V' coils as a less-expensive and proven-reliable alternative to costalotium resistive spark plugs and scrapping his bike's existing EI (especially given a Tri-Spark will also require new coils ...).

. While Rita is available if desired, I haven't suggested it to Steve The OP as an alternative; I'm merely using my personal first-hand experience of EI with '4V' coils to illustrate the advice I've posted.

Originally Posted by Adam M.
Talking about Lucas products, specifically wiring my opinion changed with time - now I think it's really well made and a main problem were penny pinching bike manufacturers, not Lucas itself.
It depends on the point you're trying to make:-

. Are terminals well-crimped on wires? By-and-large, yes.

. Could design and implementation be better? Very much:-

.. The '71-on reduction in wire sizes saved the proverbial ten per cent of bugger-all; modern harness makers should not copy it, especially given the easy availability of modern thinwall wire.

.. Provision by 'original Lucas' of return ('79-on supply) wires instead of relying on bits of bike has been a God-send in principle on these old heaps; however, the implementation was unmitigated crap, wasted far more than was ever saved by the wire size reduction; again, modern harness makers can easily do better without sacrificing connectivity.

Originally Posted by Adam M.
main part of the original loom and it still works well, however I had to discard a big part of it going to Trispark ign system, 3 phase alternator and solid state regulator rectifier.
Precisely a point I've made already.

Hth.

Regards,

SJS #842100 03/06/21 5:46 pm
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Hi Steve,
Originally Posted by SJS
I think we are drifting massively off point.
Firstly, to set the wider scene
Thank you for this; however, like Adam, you have entirely missed the point of what's been posted for you - your bike has an actual electrical fault; ime, likely somewhere in the wiring loom, possibly because you have had to alter it so much for the non-original components you've attached to it.

If you don't understand my previous posts, from "Tridentman" Richard's post #841667:-
Originally Posted by Tridentman
I dont want to damn Boyer EIs on triples because there are many bikes running fine with these---using either 6v or 4v coils
... from my post #841619, I have tried to steer you away from wasting yet more money treating a symptom, towards changes that'll eliminate potential causes of the problem you're experiencing - the idea is: you follow my advice, you eventually locate the actual electrical fault(s).

Originally Posted by SJS
If in your experienced view, those new alternatives in someway repeat the "problems" of the past then surely thats down to a lack of innovation and benefit hindsight of those currently now producing such items but hey, that was the very approach of the British Motorcycle Industry back in the day and which ultimately caused their demise.
On this wider subject, you are mistaken; many of the electrical "innovations" you've bought and fitted were developed and available when there was a British Motorcycle Industry - both Lucas and Ernie Bransden offered their EI from the early 1970's; the 3-phase alternator you fitted was originally developed and launched by the original Lucas company in 1978 (my own T160's have had them since 1982); I believe Podtronics was developed in the US during the 1970's.

Originally Posted by SJS
In the defence of some of these new after market manufacturers and with specific regard to wiring looms, the various new optional innovations now available, like Podtronics for example, make it difficult, without offering a bespoke product at great expense, for those manufacturers to account for all eventualities so they go for the default original to provide a uniform product which satisfies the largest demand.
On the contrary, the "largest demand" hasn't been for rectifier, Zener and points for many, many years; at one time, it was possible to ask British Wiring in the US to leave out these connections; for some reason, that option is now not available.

Having considerable experience of wiring not just British bikes, ime it would be very easy for loom makers to make several beneficial changes without compromising connectivity for the few who still choose to use original components. 'Fraid no idea why certainly the British loom makers choose to ignore these possibilities.

Originally Posted by SJS
If as an individual with a more bespoke system that does not require certain aspects of the original design, either don't use them ( wheres the problem there ? )
You might not have had a chance to notice yet but ... many connections in a standard loom unused by common upgrades (as you have made) are still live; if not traced and insulated, capable of causing a short-circuit, at best bringing the bike to an unrequired halt, at worst causing damage. Ime, better they weren't even present in a brand-new 21st century- manufactured loom.

Originally Posted by SJS
In my view, its not a deficiency on the part of the current manufacturer.
We'll just have to disagree.

Originally Posted by SJS
I have no "problem" as such to solve.
Originally Posted by SJS
Its just that the plugs that were in the bike, previously fitted brand new, could only have covered 200 miles max.
:shrug Ok, that isn't a problem ...

Originally Posted by SJS
I don't accept that all Wassel stuff is rubbish,
cool

Originally Posted by SJS
one assumes that they have not crossed any legal boundaries
I'd like to see the legal explanation for a cheap copy of a Lockheed caliper with "Girling" cast on it ...

Problem particularly with Wassell is, not only don't the management seem to have any moral boundaries, they are completely immune to any criticism ... and, depending who answers emails, this might be encouraged in the staff. frown

Originally Posted by SJS
a tad disingenuous to blame the naivety of the buyer acting in good faith.
Mmmm ... something expensive I'm going to buy, I don't know the maker, I type an appropriate question into Google ...

Originally Posted by SJS
I'm more of a "glass half full" kinda bloke and as a consequence I interpreted some of your comments as a tad negative,
As at the beginning of this post, you've entirely missed the point of what's been posted for you - your bike has an actual electrical fault; if the plugs do at least 10,000 miles for you, thumbsup

Originally Posted by SJS
Maybe you should channel your obvious expertise and knowledge into addressing the many deficiencies in the products as you see them, therein offering a win win outcome for all, ala Dave Madigan
laughing Thank you for the career advice but as the old joke goes, as I'm already a billionaire, I don't have any desire to be a millionaire manufacturer of parts for old Britbikes ...

And, again trust me, unless Dave's life has changed radically, parts for old Britbikes don't pay for his tooling and knowledge; he makes parts for old Britbikes just for the love of it.

Regards,

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Hi SJS, Hi Stuart,
As the moderator of this board I would like to suggest that following posts concentrate on the technical problem(s) raised. This hopefully will prevent the thread descending into a more acrimonious exchange.
After all as triples owners we nearly always have more than enough to deal with having to sort out three of everything!

Last edited by Tridentman; 03/06/21 7:42 pm.
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Hi Richard, Steve,

No acrimony on my part - Steve had clearly put time and effort into his previous post, I thought it deserved the courtesy of a reply. We have different opinions on some things ... smile

Hth.

Regards,

SJS #842132 03/07/21 12:07 am
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Hi Stuart
To clarify things a little
- my comment about E.I was related to SJS situation, so Boyer firing 3 x 6V coils against point ign / Trispark firing 1 x 12V coil. So I don't thing I misled him. smile
- my comment about wiring was just explaining who is IMHO to blame for the cost cutting of looms of that period ( not Lucas because looms and all the rest of the parts bought from outside suppliers had to be made to the price ).
I still don't believe any electrical fault caused demise of his NGK plugs, simple killing his engine to quickly after a start could accomplish that.
Like always find your comments valuable, painting bigger pictures of the situation during seventies in GB, something I was unable to see with my own eyes.

SJS #842185 03/07/21 4:02 pm
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The problem the thread began with was of a grossly wet-sumped engine.
LAB’s advice to drain via the primary case while on the side stand would have allowed the majority of the oil to be released.
However I suspect there would still be rather more residual oil in the crankcase than usual.
On initial start-up, it is possible that an overdose of oil found its way to the plugs, causing their premature fouling.
I suppose the proof of the pudding would be if the new plugs continue to perform long term, assuming the bike is used frequently enough to avoid further wet-sumping episodes.
The issue may not have been electrical at all, though I would agree that you would be best to avoid any additional resistances in the HT leads, caps or plugs.

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Originally Posted by koan58
The problem the thread began with was of a grossly wet-sumped engine.
LAB’s advice to drain via the primary case while on the side stand would have allowed the majority of the oil to be released.
However I suspect there would still be rather more residual oil in the crankcase than usual.
On initial start-up, it is possible that an overdose of oil found its way to the plugs, causing their premature fouling.
Only if Steve The OP didn't follow Les's advice.

Engine that's been standing unused for any length of time, the advice repeated on several Britbike internet forums for many years is to start with some oil in the crankcase, that oil immediately lubricating splash-lubricated components such as the cams, rather than those components running with unknown residual lubrication for the period until pumped oil drains into the crankcase.

In the case of a triple engine that's been unused for any length of time, the recommended quantity for such a start-up is around two pints, this does not cause plug fouling; Les's advice to drain through the primary would leave less than two pints in the crankcase.

Hth.

Regards,

SJS #842432 03/10/21 12:29 am
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Thanks for that clarification Stuart. 2 pints seems a lot in the crankcase, but I'm sure you're right.

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