Classic British SparesKlempf British PartsBaxter CycleBritBike Sponsor SteadfastCyclesSRM EngineeringLucas Classic MotorcycleHepolite PistonsIndustrial tec supply

Upgrade your membership to: Premium Membership | Gold Membership | Life Membership | Vendor Membership | Site Sponsor Membership
Welcome to BritBike Forum!
Britbike forum logo
Member Spotlight
perfect.tommy
perfect.tommy
vancouver, canada
Posts: 67
Joined: September 2013
ShoutChat
Comment Guidelines: Do post respectful and insightful comments. Don't flame, hate, spam.
Search eBay for motorcycle parts in following countries
Australia, Canada, France, Holland, Italy, United Kingdom, USA
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Kevin E Offline OP
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Hi all,

I'm wondering if anyone can shed any light on a problem that I am having fitting the chrome rear mudguard to my 1966 A65 Lightning.

I will start by saying that although my bike is a 1966 registered model, it is in no way original and has had lots of modifications since I have owned it.

When I first rebuilt the bike back in the late 80's I changed the frame for a later one (I believe it is a 1968 frame) because the original was in poor condition, having been abused by previous owners and suffering from a poorly fitted sidecar.

When I bought the bike it had a universal alloy rear mudguard fitted and I replaced this with a chrome one, that I bought at the Stafford Bike Show autojumble back in the 80's. It was not an original BSA A65 mudguard but was close and I managed to get it fitted but not with the standard brackets and fittings.

This time, on my current rebuild, I have bought all the standard rear mudguard fittings from Burton Bike Bits, which consist of the 68-6767 bridge and all correct bolts and spacers, along with their 68-6856 chrome rear mudguard.

My problem is I cannot get the mudguard to fit with the toolbox in place. If I remove the toolbox everything fits perfectly and the mudguards centre front hole is perfectly in line with the lug on the frame below the oil tank.

If I fit the toolbox, I cannot get the mudguard far enough over to that side for it to line up with the lug on the frame below the oil tank.

It is like the toolbox is too wide. when it is bolted in the frame the dzeus fastener is in the right place for the side panel, so it appears that the back end of the toolbox is protruding too far into the frame and preventing the mudguard from coming over to that side enough for it to fit properly.

I have checked in the parts books and the toolbox from 1966 all the way up to 1970 has the same part number, so I'm not sure what is going on?

Can anyone help please?

Support Your #1 BritBike Forum!

Check out British motorcycles for sale: British Motorcycles on e-Bay UK, British motorcycles on e-Bay North America
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 57
Likes: 13
50+ years experience
Offline
50+ years experience
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 57
Likes: 13
Hi Kevin, is the mudguard "dimpled" for clearance, where the back of the toolbox is interfering? 68-6856 is listed as the rear guard for US-spec, and 68-6857 is the home-market designation.I don't know what the differences are, but it sounds like some "fettling" will be required to get this pattern part to fit correctly. Could the hole in the toolbox be stretched a bit, or the hole in the mounting tab be ovalized to adjust the placement of the toolbox to get better fitment? Reproduction sheet metal parts often need slight adjustments to get correct alignment. Just a suggestion.

Dave


[Linked Image from tbsphotos.s3.amazonaws.com]
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Kevin E Offline OP
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Originally Posted by The Bonneville Shop
Hi Kevin, is the mudguard "dimpled" for clearance, where the back of the toolbox is interfering? 68-6856 is listed as the rear guard for US-spec, and 68-6857 is the home-market designation.I don't know what the differences are, but it sounds like some "fettling" will be required to get this pattern part to fit correctly. Could the hole in the toolbox be stretched a bit, or the hole in the mounting tab be ovalized to adjust the placement of the toolbox to get better fitment? Reproduction sheet metal parts often need slight adjustments to get correct alignment. Just a suggestion.

Dave

Hi Dave, yes the mudguard is dimpled to clear something on that side, which I assumed is the toolbox?

I’m not sure what the difference is between the 68-6856 and 68-6857 mudguards? In the 1968 parts book the 68-6856 is listed as U.S.A. models but there is only one toolbox listed, so you would assume that both these guards would clear it?

I’ve measured the distance (roughly) between the mounting holes for the toolbox to the mudguard and it’s about 10mm less than what the holes in the toolbox measure to the back of it. This would fit in with the amount of interference I’m getting.

Everything else lines up and the mudguard looks a very good quality item, so I may have to modify the toolbox in some way.

Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 57
Likes: 13
50+ years experience
Offline
50+ years experience
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 57
Likes: 13
Looks like you are pretty close Kevin. You may be able to slot the hole in the tin toolbox to move it outwards a bit, shouldn't affect the fitment of the side cover by moving the "oddie" receptacle out by 10mm. Good luck!

Dave


[Linked Image from tbsphotos.s3.amazonaws.com]
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 7,861
Likes: 123
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 7,861
Likes: 123
Your lucky it fitted at all. The one I bought years ago just wouldn’t line up, all the holes were out of centre. My mate bought one not too long ago and this was so poorly made that he sent it back. With the one I had I had to re-bend the guard for it to clear the chain guard and the tool tray.

We both bought our guards instead from Autocycle who were one of the original makers of this guard. Whilst they come Undrilled the shape and profile is 100% match to the original old ones that I have. Unlike the BBB one which uses the wrong profile.

If it was my money I’d send it back.

Buy one of Chris at Autocycle unchromed. Drill all the holes you need, tack on the support plates if you desire or use large penny washers like I did (you can buy square ones to keep the original theme) then send it off to your favourite chromer. Cost will be comparable to the guard sold by BBB, but the fit will be correct.

Their front guards are the right profile though and a decent fit. Just the rears are terrible.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Joined: May 2013
Posts: 7,861
Likes: 123
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 7,861
Likes: 123
Originally Posted by The Bonneville Shop
68-6856 is listed as the rear guard for US-spec, and 68-6857 is the home-market designation.I don't know what the differences are,

The uk spec one has a hole at the bottom of the guard for the much larger British number plate. The US spec ones do not.

Last edited by Allan G; 02/26/21 7:44 pm.

Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

1 member likes this: The Bonneville Shop
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,083
Likes: 62
I
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
I
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,083
Likes: 62
If in the USA, depending on the license plate size where you live, if that UK spec fender has that un-needed hole, just pop a bolt or a rubber plug in it.

Or, make a stiffener plate to mount the license on, make it a bit longer, and use the hole to mount the bottom of it to prevent both it, and the license plate, from "flapping."

Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Kevin E Offline OP
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Originally Posted by Allan G
Your lucky it fitted at all. The one I bought years ago just wouldn’t line up, all the holes were out of centre. My mate bought one not too long ago and this was so poorly made that he sent it back. With the one I had I had to re-bend the guard for it to clear the chain guard and the tool tray.

We both bought our guards instead from Autocycle who were one of the original makers of this guard. Whilst they come Undrilled the shape and profile is 100% match to the original old ones that I have. Unlike the BBB one which uses the wrong profile.

If it was my money I’d send it back.

Buy one of Chris at Autocycle unchromed. Drill all the holes you need, tack on the support plates if you desire or use large penny washers like I did (you can buy square ones to keep the original theme) then send it off to your favourite chromer. Cost will be comparable to the guard sold by BBB, but the fit will be correct.

Their front guards are the right profile though and a decent fit. Just the rears are terrible.

It’s a shame Allan, apart from the guard and toolbox interference it fits well and the chrome looks pretty good quality.

I’m not really keen on butchering the toolbox but may consider it.

I have sent Auto-Cycle an email to see what they can supply me and may go that route.

I bought the rear mudguard from BBB a few months ago and I’m not sure what their returns and refund policy is? I may have to write it off and put it down to experience. Nothing new with these kind of rebuilds eh?

Cheers, Kev E

Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Kevin E Offline OP
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Originally Posted by Irish Swede
If in the USA, depending on the license plate size where you live, if that UK spec fender has that un-needed hole, just pop a bolt or a rubber plug in it.

Or, make a stiffener plate to mount the license on, make it a bit longer, and use the hole to mount the bottom of it to prevent both it, and the license plate, from "flapping."

I don’t have an unwanted hole and my issue has nothing to do with the rear number plate mounting. I wish it was that simple 👍🏻

Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Kevin E Offline OP
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Originally Posted by Allan G
Originally Posted by The Bonneville Shop
68-6856 is listed as the rear guard for US-spec, and 68-6857 is the home-market designation.I don't know what the differences are,

The uk spec one has a hole at the bottom of the guard for the much larger British number plate. The US spec ones do not.

I did wonder why that hole was missing, as I have an original A65 number plate that has the stud at the bottom for that position. I wasn’t too concerned about it and was going to fit a smaller number plate. I did have a BSA with the number plate mounting at the bottom, as well as the two on the top bracket and I remember the mudguard split at this point. This was why I was going to steer clear of it.

Kev E

Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 46
Likes: 4
C
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
C
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 46
Likes: 4
I would butcher the after market fender before the stock tool box.

2 members like this: Allan G, Kevin E
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,031
Likes: 52
Britbike forum member
Online Content
Britbike forum member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,031
Likes: 52
Toolboxes are.more readily available and cheaper.


Bill
1974 Norton Commando
1966 Lightning
1965 Lightning Rocket
1966 Norton Atlas
1967 Norton Atlas
1948 Panhead
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,560
Likes: 60
M
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
M
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,560
Likes: 60
I'm with Chip on this one, assuming you can't return the fender. Is the whole dimpled area not dimpled enough, or is it hitting at the back edge of the dimpled area? Are you aware that there's supposed to be a spacer at the front fender mount between the fender and the frame lug? On mine, the spacer is about 7/8" long.

Depending on the above, you might be able to pound the fender to fit with a mallet without breaking the chrome. Or if the damage is very slight, you could cover it with paint; this area being not visible. More drastic would be to cut and weld. I had a chrome chain guard welded by an expert who TIG'ed it with stainless steel filler rod, and you could barely see the repair.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Kevin E Offline OP
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Originally Posted by Mark Z
I'm with Chip on this one, assuming you can't return the fender. Is the whole dimpled area not dimpled enough, or is it hitting at the back edge of the dimpled area? Are you aware that there's supposed to be a spacer at the front fender mount between the fender and the frame lug? On mine, the spacer is about 7/8" long.

Depending on the above, you might be able to pound the fender to fit with a mallet without breaking the chrome. Or if the damage is very slight, you could cover it with paint; this area being not visible. More drastic would be to cut and weld. I had a chrome chain guard welded by an expert who TIG'ed it with stainless steel filler rod, and you could barely see the repair.

Hi Mark,

Yes I have the correct spacer at the front mounting point and it’s actually identical to the long left hand spacer that fits over the left hand top shock absorber bolt that offsets the rear mudguard bridge, which spans the shock absorber top mounts. The mudguard obviously needs to offset towards the right hand side because of the offset on the swinging arm for the rear brake drum and drive sprocket assembly.

It’s really annoyed me because apart from this interference with the rear of the toolbox the mudguard fits well, all the holes line up with everything on the frame & rear grab rail and the chrome is really good quality. At least it looks good but I guess time will be the test on just how good it is.

I’m really not keen on butchering the toolbox. I’m not keen on butchering anything. I’m going to take the mudguard off again tomorrow and see if there is anything I can do.

I have emailed BBB and explained the problem, so will have to wait and see what their response is?

If they will take it back I will go down the route that Allan G suggested with the Auto-Cycle option. Just knocks me back a bit time wise and is a little frustrating, but I think I’d rather wait and get things right rather than bodge things.

Even if they won’t take it back I will probably use an auto cycle guard on this bike. The BBB guard could be used on another A65 that is short of a few bits and pieces but will be a future project. I may be able to use it on that one with a modified toolbox.

Last edited by Kevin E; 02/27/21 7:15 pm.
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 7,861
Likes: 123
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 7,861
Likes: 123
Originally Posted by Kevin E
Originally Posted by Allan G
Your lucky it fitted at all. The one I bought years ago just wouldn’t line up, all the holes were out of centre. My mate bought one not too long ago and this was so poorly made that he sent it back. With the one I had I had to re-bend the guard for it to clear the chain guard and the tool tray.

We both bought our guards instead from Autocycle who were one of the original makers of this guard. Whilst they come Undrilled the shape and profile is 100% match to the original old ones that I have. Unlike the BBB one which uses the wrong profile.

If it was my money I’d send it back.

Buy one of Chris at Autocycle unchromed. Drill all the holes you need, tack on the support plates if you desire or use large penny washers like I did (you can buy square ones to keep the original theme) then send it off to your favourite chromer. Cost will be comparable to the guard sold by BBB, but the fit will be correct.

Their front guards are the right profile though and a decent fit. Just the rears are terrible.

It’s a shame Allan, apart from the guard and toolbox interference it fits well and the chrome looks pretty good quality.

I’m not really keen on butchering the toolbox but may consider it.

I have sent Auto-Cycle an email to see what they can supply me and may go that route.

I bought the rear mudguard from BBB a few months ago and I’m not sure what their returns and refund policy is? I may have to write it off and put it down to experience. Nothing new with these kind of rebuilds eh?

Cheers, Kev E


I forgot to put the flat back headlight shell in my pile of stuff to be re-chromed, so for £40 I thought what the hell, these new shells can’t be bad... this one I bought was fine until I put the glass in the rim that came with it. I then couldn’t get the rim with glass onto the shell. The shell was actually more oval than square, probably being thinner steel than the original doesn’t help.

I tried an original rim and it went on, but trying to tighten the screw meant that needing a third hand to hold it all together (which I didn’t have) and slipped and scratched the rim. Needless to say I phoned the chromer who said I could add my old headlight shell to the chrome pile.

Everything else on the oif is original (or near as damn it) the rear guard was a T120 painted guard that’s gone for chrome. At least that way I know things fit first time without trouble.

The Autocycle guards as good though. As I say order the unchromed one, then drill 2mm holes and hold everything in place with self tapper screws. When you know you have all the guard squared as you want it. Take one screw out, drill it to size and put a bolt in. Then do the next one till they are all done, the bolt shouldn’t move at all. Also if you screw up with a 2mm hole chances are that your sized out hole will cover it anyway. Or a spot of weld would certainly cover it.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

1 member likes this: Kevin E
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Kevin E Offline OP
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Hi all, just an update on my rear mudguard.

I have found out what the problem is after comparing the new BBB mudguard with the old one that was fitted on the bike before I stripped it.

The dimple on the tool box side on my old mudguard was bent in and was parallel with the rear of the toolbox and cleared it ok.

The dimple on the new guard is not bent in properly and is actually getting more angled (outwards towards the toolbox) as it gets towards the front end of the mudguard.

I have attached a picture of what the old guard looked like and how the new guard compares. You can see how it interferes with the toolbox.

Its only a rough sketch to show what the problem is. Imagine your head is inside the mudguard. The top of your head is just about touching the top of the guard and you are looking forwards towards the front of the bike. The image on the left of the picture shows the original guard and how it clears the toolbox. The image on the right shows the new guard and how it is interfering with the tool box.

I am going to make up a couple of wooden formers and clamp them to either side of the area in the toolbox side dimple. I will then use these to bend the side of the dimple to where it should be and this should cure the problem.

I'll keep you posted.

Kev Ev

Rear Mudguard.JPG (15.21 KB, 208 downloads)
Last edited by Kevin E; 03/04/21 9:30 pm.
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Kevin E Offline OP
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Originally Posted by Allan G
Your lucky it fitted at all. The one I bought years ago just wouldn’t line up, all the holes were out of centre. My mate bought one not too long ago and this was so poorly made that he sent it back. With the one I had I had to re-bend the guard for it to clear the chain guard and the tool tray.

We both bought our guards instead from Autocycle who were one of the original makers of this guard. Whilst they come Undrilled the shape and profile is 100% match to the original old ones that I have. Unlike the BBB one which uses the wrong profile.

If it was my money I’d send it back.

Buy one of Chris at Autocycle unchromed. Drill all the holes you need, tack on the support plates if you desire or use large penny washers like I did (you can buy square ones to keep the original theme) then send it off to your favourite chromer. Cost will be comparable to the guard sold by BBB, but the fit will be correct.

Their front guards are the right profile though and a decent fit. Just the rears are terrible.

I emailed BBB last week about the problem with the mudguard Allan but so far I haven't heard anything from them. They get back to me quickly enough when I am enquiring about stock but they don't seem to be interested in responding to me on this one?

I also emailed Auto-Cycle enquiring about one of their guards at the same time but I have also not heard anything back from them?

Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Kevin E Offline OP
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Originally Posted by Mark Z
I'm with Chip on this one, assuming you can't return the fender. Is the whole dimpled area not dimpled enough, or is it hitting at the back edge of the dimpled area? Are you aware that there's supposed to be a spacer at the front fender mount between the fender and the frame lug? On mine, the spacer is about 7/8" long.

Depending on the above, you might be able to pound the fender to fit with a mallet without breaking the chrome. Or if the damage is very slight, you could cover it with paint; this area being not visible. More drastic would be to cut and weld. I had a chrome chain guard welded by an expert who TIG'ed it with stainless steel filler rod, and you could barely see the repair.

Hi Mark,

I received an email this morning, saying that you had made a post on this subject but when I clicked on the link it said that the page couldn't be found?

Am I going mad, or has your recent post been removed for some reason?

Kev E

Last edited by Kevin E; 03/05/21 9:33 am.
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 7,861
Likes: 123
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 7,861
Likes: 123
You'll want to call autocycle, they do answer emails but are quite old fashioned in some respects and you'll do better with a phone call.


If Only I can get Feked to reply to me.....


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Kevin E Offline OP
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Originally Posted by Allan G
You'll want to call autocycle, they do answer emails but are quite old fashioned in some respects and you'll do better with a phone call.


If Only I can get Feked to reply to me.....

I’ve not had much to do with Feked but the little I have has put me off dealing with them again.

I had a call from Carolyne at BBB yesterday. She told me that they weren’t ignoring my emails but were just very busy and have been inundated with emails lately. She told me that they had sold a lot of these rear mudguards and not had any complaints. She said that mine may be a rogue one. She also said that if I posted it back to them they would give me a full refund. I told her that I am now going to do what I have to in order to make it fit and thanked her for getting in touch with me about the matter. Even though it took 3 emails for her to do so.

I did mention to her that previous emails, enquiring about stock had been answered quickly, as opposed to my email complaining about something. She ‘assured me that it was only because of the current workload’.

Anyway at least they did get back to me and offered me a refund, so I’m happy to continue using them, so we will see how it goes.

Kev E

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,560
Likes: 60
M
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
M
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,560
Likes: 60
Originally Posted by Kevin E
Hi Mark,

I received an email this morning, saying that you had made a post on this subject but when I clicked on the link it said that the page couldn't be found?

Am I going mad, or has your recent post been removed for some reason?

Kev E

My reply was about bending technique. After posting, I re-read your post and saw that you had already figured out the same, so I deleted my reply.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Kevin E Offline OP
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Originally Posted by Mark Z
Originally Posted by Kevin E
Hi Mark,

I received an email this morning, saying that you had made a post on this subject but when I clicked on the link it said that the page couldn't be found?

Am I going mad, or has your recent post been removed for some reason?

Kev E

My reply was about bending technique. After posting, I re-read your post and saw that you had already figured out the same, so I deleted my reply.

Thanks for that Mark,

I was just curious as to what was going on with the email alert leading me to a blank.

Thanks also for taking the time to advise about the bending. Pleased to say it all went well and the mudguard now fits ok.

Take care.

Kev E

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,560
Likes: 60
M
Britbike forum member
Offline
Britbike forum member
M
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,560
Likes: 60
Originally Posted by Kevin E
Thanks also for taking the time to advise about the bending. Pleased to say it all went well and the mudguard now fits ok.

Take care.

Kev E

You're most welcome, and I'm glad to hear it's sorted. Having built a bitsa, I can appreciate the challenges that mixing and matching parts presents.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Kevin E Offline OP
Britbike forum member
OP Offline
Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 156
Likes: 19
Just a quick update on the rear mudguard. As you can see it's all now sorted and the rear end is looking quite nice now.

The grab rail is a stainless one from Classic Bike Racks in Cumbria. It was a perfect fit out of the box.

A65 Rear End.JPG (67.26 KB, 61 downloads)
1 member likes this: Bob E
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,914
Likes: 35
G
Britbike forum member
Online Content
Britbike forum member
G
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,914
Likes: 35
Kevin,
I recommend having doublers in the mounting holes where they are on original fenders, especially the very front one. Over the years I've seen multiple severely cracked rear fenders in the front area.


1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 Cyclone Competition Build
1 member likes this: Allan G
Page 1 of 2 1 2

Moderated by  Allan G, Jon W. Whitley 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Job CycleBritish Cycle SupplyMorries PlaceKlempf British PartsPodtronicVintage MagazineBSA Unit SinglesBritBike SponsorBritish Tools & FastenersBritBike SponsorBritBike Sponsor






© 1996-2021 britbike.com
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5