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Appears to be on some applications that you may have to run a diode

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Come on guys, let's hear some long-term reviews ! Diode or no diode I need to know if the pattern through a stock lens is adequate or better. Is the brightness blinding oncoming traffic on a dark night? Do they flicker? Do they last? Are they worth the price? -BA PS- What is an "ET machine"? ty

Last edited by BAinLA; 01/29/21 1:42 pm.

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Originally Posted by BAinLA
PS- What is an "ET machine"?
ET means Energy Transfer. It was used on competition machines and provided 6V alternating current to power the lights. The original lighting was weak so ET guys would appreciate an easy upgrade to bright LED lights if possible.

A non polarity conscious LED bulb sounds like it would fit the bill because it implies that it will work with + or - ground systems. Since AC power continually changes from + to -, it's possible a LED bulb would work but I don't think anyone has reported on this yet. Magnetoman may at some point report his findings because he is curious about the possibility himself.

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Originally Posted by Stuart Kirk
Originally Posted by BAinLA
PS- What is an "ET machine"?
ET means Energy Transfer. It was used on competition machines and provided 6V alternating current to power the lights. The original lighting was weak so ET guys would appreciate an easy upgrade to bright LED lights if possible.

A non polarity conscious LED bulb sounds like it would fit the bill because it implies that it will work with + or - ground systems. Since AC power continually changes from + to -, it's possible a LED bulb would work but I don't think anyone has reported on this yet. Magnetoman may at some point report his findings because he is curious about the possibility himself.

Thanks for explaining that to me Stuart.

I'm not very interested in theory at this point since I have a bike sitting here that I can't (won't actually) ride until I replace the burnt out BPF Lucas 370 45/35 bulb. The guys that purchased LED for a stock config. classic need to report back, please! -BA

Last edited by BAinLA; 01/29/21 10:44 pm.

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I spent some time deciphering the 446 LED issue and found the answer which I tell our customers about. If your bike has a high beam warning light you must fit a diode to it to let the low/high beam switch work. The warning light path let's the LED decide the power is coming from the warning light instead of the switch (remember it's logic chip is looking for positive or negative ground). Install a diode between the warning light and its ground so current cannot come from the ground to the LED. I recommend the small spade fuse type used for Ford air conditioning compressors as using an in-line fuse holder keeps the assembly small enough to hide in the headlight shell.


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Originally Posted by The Bonneville Shop
I spent some time deciphering the 446 LED issue and found the answer which I tell our customers about. If your bike has a high beam warning light you must fit a diode to it to let the low/high beam switch work. The warning light path let's the LED decide the power is coming from the warning light instead of the switch (remember it's logic chip is looking for positive or negative ground). Install a diode between the warning light and its ground so current cannot come from the ground to the LED. I recommend the small spade fuse type used for Ford air conditioning compressors as using an in-line fuse holder keeps the assembly small enough to hide in the headlight shell.

Great, thank you sir. When I do the upgrade I will do just as you describe. Still not sure what to use for a lens/reflector but I'll worry about that when the time comes.-Brian


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Can someone explain what wire in the headlight shell should I be looking for to install the diode?

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Woodsie, I believe it should be the Blue/white tracer wire branching from the BPF bulbholder up to the warning lite bulbholder, depending on the model year of your bike.
-Dave


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BA, I just recently bought the following bulb to update my 1965 TR6SR with 12v system, still positive ground:

https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/coll...-unit-replaces-lucas-oem-446-414-370-312

It works, but I am not impressed. Just as happy with the old filament bulbs. The low beam is weak- it's dispersion in an original Lucas reflector is not a good pattern. The high beam is great, that was an improvement on the filament type. The colour of the beam thrown out also takes a little getting used to- it is more of a blue/white versus a yellowish from a filament type. I am undecided on how the beam works in rainy weather, I have not noted any improvement over filament. Cannot comment on whether I am blinding oncoming traffic, but anyone with these Damn leds are constantly blinding me. My ammeter tells me the current draw is nice and low, roughly 1 amp movement versus 4 amp movement for a filament. Just a couple days after installing the bulb, my battery was completely flat (NOT DUE TO BULB), and I had a nightime run home of 17 miles. I am running a stock charging and points ignition systems, the bike started roughly and the bulb did flicker using only alternator output. With battery recharged from riding, no flicker evident.
Above usage was 17 miles per night, four to five nights a week, for maybe a month and a half as of this writing.

Notes on bulb construction- this particular bulb has leds on top and bottom. Low beam uses roughly 50% of leds, high beam uses 100% A poor design feature is that the sides of bulb do not have leds, this seems to make the low beam relatively ineffective.

Personal note on Led headlights- they should be illegal. Too much light for oncoming traffic in unlit rural areas, I have to pull over and come to a near stop every night because they are too dazzling, whereas I don't have to with older filament beam equipped vehicles using proper low beam for oncoming traffic.


So in a quick summary, the bulb sold by Lowbrow is what I have based my writing on. I'll keep running it, but not impressed by any means.

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[i][/i] Thanks Deadstiffcatt, That's the info I was looking for. I'll keep this filament bulb until it burns out I guess and I don't need to ride at night or in the rain so it's not a critical issue. If I was in your position, I might talk to someone at Lowbrow and get their suggestions as I'm sure they have heard it all by now.
A new reflector and lens has been discussed here but with my flat headlight bucket there isn't much room. You, on the other hand, should be able to upgrade with minimal trouble I would imagine. -BA

Last edited by BAinLA; 08/24/21 9:39 pm.

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Originally Posted by Deadstiffcatt
Personal note on Led headlights- they should be illegal. Too much light for oncoming traffic in unlit rural areas, I have to pull over and come to a near stop every night because they are too dazzling, whereas I don't have to with older filament beam equipped vehicles using proper low beam for oncoming traffic.
.
Know what you mean. Here in Australia there are regulations for headlight adjustment (i.e. top of low beam not to be higher than 750mm at a distance of 30 metres), but the Authorities (you know, the ones that get excited when you exceed the speed limit) either don't know or don't care that maybe 10% of the vehicles on the road have headlights that create a dangerous situation for other road users.

Unfortunately, the manifestation of people not caring for the well-being of others can also be seen in other areas as a result of the current difficult times that the world is facing due to the Pestilence.

Last edited by sammysnail; 08/29/21 5:13 am.

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