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#824367 09/21/20 5:17 pm
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Hi all,

I'm having a bit of trouble refitting the back wheel on my 1963 3TA. The manuals I have are not a huge amount of help and I want to make sure I do it properly, so if anyone has experience of doing this I would appreciate some tips.

I have replaced the speedometer gearbox as the old one was faulty. I haven't done anything else to the hub or brakes.

There are two spindle nuts on the right hand side (not brake side). The Manual says to tighten the inner nut that secures the speedometer gearbox and check that the gearbox works satisfactorily. It doesn't give any indication how tight this should be. Logically, as there is a "distance collar" between the gearbox and the bearing, it would seem that the nut can be done up tightly. However, if I do this the gearbox doesn't turn freely. I can't work out why though. Am I tightening up against the bearing too much?

Should I only tighten the nut lightly? I am guessing the other spindle nut (outside of the chain adjuster) will effectively lock the spindle to the frame.

Not sure if I am explaining this very well, but if anyone can make sense of my ramblings and give me some advice I would be very grateful.

Regards
Peter

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The wheel is probably similar to my 67 and I normally tighten the nuts on the brake plate and gearbox together whist holding the brake on with a tube on the lever. This centres the brake plate and locks the spindle, too. The gearbox should still be free however tight you do them up.

If you have only changed the gearbox then this must be at fault. Have you tried temporarily refitting the old gearbox and seeing if this starts locking up? Check that the slotted part that drives the gearbox is tight. Maybe the spacer isn't quite right for the new gearbox.

Dave

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Thanks Dave for confirming this should be tight.

I think I have found the issue. The spindle hole in the speedometer gearbox is not central. It is offset by a couple of millimeters. Once the nut is tightened it pulls it to one side and it binds on the wheel hub.

It's an L.F. Harris part which I thought are supposed to be pretty good quality. Hopefully a one off and the replacement will be correct.

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Peter- The slotted part I meant was the speedometer adapter that screws into the wheel hub. It engages with the pegs in the speedo drive itself.

Dave

Last edited by dave jones; 09/26/20 7:35 am.
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Originally Posted by dave jones
Check that the slotted part that drives the gearbox is tight. Maybe the spacer isn't quite right for the new gearbox.
Dave

Turns out the replacement speedo drive did exactly the same thing. Dave, as you suggested, the spacer isn't long enough for the new drive. I drilled out a washer to a 3/4" hole and added this between the drive and the spacer. Tightened everything up and all is good.

I stripped the hub down before doing this to clean the bearings and re-grease everything. I think I may have a grease retaining washer or something missing on the RHS as the speedo adapter does not screw far enough in to touch the bearing completely, there is a small gap of maybe 0.5 mm. I think it may be this that my washer has compensated for.

Not sure how or why the original drive fitted ok though.

All seems ok now it's back together. Might have a closer look at the complete hub at some point. It is difficult to see exactly what should go where from the diagrams in the manuals I have!

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Glad it is ok. When I fitted sealed bearings I still put the grease retainers back in just to make sure everything would line up.

Dave

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Everything on the axle should have and retain pressure on the inner bearing races

Although there should be no pre-load minus the exception of the brake plate


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