Interesting. So...the batteries--would there have been one on each side of the tool box? This would explain the bad corrosion on the right hand side of mine.
Interesting. So...the batteries--would there have been one on each side of the tool box? This would explain the bad corrosion on the right hand side of mine.
The Interceptor shop manual calls for a pair of Lucas MKZ9-E which are 6 volts each, to be wired in series to produce 12 volts. The physical dimensions of one of these is, 5" long x 1.5" wide x 5" high.(taken from Baxter's website, who list these OEM batteries @ $ NOT CHEAP) Since the original batteries were fairly diminutive, it would make sense to keep them together. H's online parts books for '64/'65 USA spec Interceptors has a toolbox illustration that shows the battery strap to be on the RH side of the toolbox, which would agree with your toolbox showing corrosion on the same side.
Last edited by oilyamerican; 10/18/203:27 pm.
They say every dog has his day.. Trouble is, nobody tells the dog which day it is !
Finally turned some wrenches on it yesterday and already stymied. How on earth (see what I did there?) does one remove the magneto? There are 3 nuts I can see to remove but the one forward and down towards the crankcase is completely inaccessible by wrench and a socket won't fit over it because of the shape of the magneto body. Does it somehow get removed by accessing something inside the timing cover?
Your post suggests that you have not removed the timing cover....
So, to be clear....you cannot remove the magneto by just undoing the 3 visible nuts. You need to remove the timing cover to access the timing chain and magneto sprocket/advance unit. It's been a while since I worked on one of these, but I "think" your machine may have an adapter plate between the magneto mtg flange and the actual crankcase surface.This may allow removal of the magneto without having to release the advance unit from the mag spindle. You will be able to judge that situation once the timing cover is removed. Either way, the timing chain obviously needs taken clear of the sprocket.
Regarding the PIA third nut, you will probably have to modify a spanner or possibly use what is called a "crow's foot" to access it.
Let us know how things work out .
Last edited by oilyamerican; 10/21/201:05 pm.
They say every dog has his day.. Trouble is, nobody tells the dog which day it is !
My intuition was correct then. Thank you. With my Bullet I could rely on the parts diagram for things like this but the one for the Interceptor only shows the mag as it's own thing on a separate page. I couldn't judge at all how it came out. Yes, mine does have the spacer. I'm not bothered taking more apart, just didn't want to do unnecessary things.
I took the fuel tank and the carbs off since they needed attention anyway. The carb slides were gummed up tight. At least the cables now function freely.
Seeing those broken bits reminded me of the time I was riding my bike home at a leisurely pace, when I suddenly felt something go "thunk" at my left ankle. The bike went along with no problem and I arrived home safely. But upon removing the primary cover to investigate, I discovered that one of the clutch basket segments had parted company from the assembly . Thank God it didn't get caught up in the primary chain !! While TIG welding it back into place, I noticed some of the other segments had started to flare outward. So I bent them back into position then fashioned a narrow steel band around the circumference and it's held together ever since. Although, I would not trust it for any high RPM power shifting LOL
They say every dog has his day.. Trouble is, nobody tells the dog which day it is !
I would again recommend going through the engine, splitting the cases and just having a good look about. The seals no doubt need replacing, and the bearings could be pitted from sitting in old oil for so long. Plus you can do some necessary mod's to upgrade the engine such as the breather mod, ensuring against oil leaks in the oil gallery between the case's that supplies the rocker feed. Give it a good cleaning, check the Zinc chromate paint inside the case's etc. You'll be glad you did! Tom Oil
The advance mechanism on the Interceptor is apparently unique as Gregg hasn't been able to find a suitable replacement piece. At this point I'll probably just have him lock it at proper full advance. I'm fairly adept at kicking over British twins. Hopefully it won't try to kill me.
Have a look at VOC spares company, Not sure if they have the part you are looking for, and I’m only assuming it is the same stuff. It does turn in the correct direction though. I haven’t looked there in a while, but last time I did, they had a few parts and new assemblies I think. Post a picture of what you need. I do have some ATD parts. In the mean time, you could just stuff an electronic ignition in there. Bit of work, but would get you going until the ATD and mag are ready to go.
I may have spoken too soon about the parts I have. There is most of an ATD, but the piece with the tangs that limit advance is NG. Two of the tangs have disappeared into someone’s timing chest. Post a picture anyway and I will check with the local tribe.
It does not say it is for Enfield, but it has a sprocket for a timing chain like Enfield uses. Could be for an early Norton twin though.. Maybe there's other differences that are not so apparent. Worth a look, the price seems reasonable
They say every dog has his day.. Trouble is, nobody tells the dog which day it is !
That eBay ATD is a Norton version, which is for the wrong rotation among other differences..
The Enfield version is deeper axially, and has a duplex drive sprocket with a finer pitch \\.. Gregg
Spyder Integrated Technologies Lucas & BTH Magneto Restoration Lucas & Miller Dynamo Restoration SMITHS Chronometric & Magnetic Instrument Restoration [email protected]
The Vincent ATD is the correct rotation, but the stop plate's hub is different and will not mate with the rest of the Enfield ATD. .. Gregg
Spyder Integrated Technologies Lucas & BTH Magneto Restoration Lucas & Miller Dynamo Restoration SMITHS Chronometric & Magnetic Instrument Restoration [email protected]
Brakes and wheel bearings checked out okay. Took the primary cover off and found the chain super-slack which seems to be a theme on every RE I've touched so far. Tensioner shoe is worn badly so ordered a replacement from Hitchcocks that gets riveted on...that should be a fun exercise. The chrome is actually flaking off the front mudguard so there is no dressing it up. All the rest of the chrome seems to be cleaning up into 'presentable' status. I should have a new video up soon. Just ordered a few hundred bucks of joy from Hitchcocks. Need to get tires and tubes coming next.
Well, things have...advanced? Deteriorated? Escalated?
A few quirks and oddities. First, why on earth did someone think putting a drain plug here was a good idea? You have to take the bloody exhaust off to get a socket on it, and no, a wrench won't work.
Brakes and wheel bearings checked out okay. Took the primary cover off and found the chain super-slack which seems to be a theme on every RE I've touched so far. Tensioner shoe is worn badly so ordered a replacement from Hitchcocks that gets riveted on...that should be a fun exercise. The chrome is actually flaking off the front mudguard so there is no dressing it up. All the rest of the chrome seems to be cleaning up into 'presentable' status. I should have a new video up soon. Just ordered a few hundred bucks of joy from Hitchcocks. Need to get tires and tubes coming next.
Aah, I see you're going down the rabbit hole quite nicely. Consider your self lucky with that drain plug, Bud.... they're soft chrome plated brass and most look like they've been attacked by a rabid beaver.
They say every dog has his day.. Trouble is, nobody tells the dog which day it is !
I put some spacers to hold off the headers and silencers a bit to get access to the drain plug, but even then it won't come out but will come out far enough to drain the oil. I generally use a box end on that. Tom Oil
I tried a few different ways of getting on it but the case stud next to it is in the way for anything other than a thin wall socket. So, whatever. It's no worse than changing the oil on a modern car where you have to remove an underbody shield with 14 Fasteners before you even see the filter.
Gregg may have found one. He is persistent, like a honey badger.
Why thank you, Dwight and Cyborg. "Honey Badger Persistence" is a condition which precedes lunacy when chasing challenges. I have now completed the restoration of Dwight's ATD and mag ... they will soon be reunited with his bike. ..gREgg
Last edited by gREgg-K; 12/02/202:06 am.
Spyder Integrated Technologies Lucas & BTH Magneto Restoration Lucas & Miller Dynamo Restoration SMITHS Chronometric & Magnetic Instrument Restoration [email protected]
Nice video. Let me point out a couple of things... the paint on the inside of the cases is to seal any porosity in the casting surfaces and prevent oil leakage. A little trick I do with the oil plug/ filter screen , is to glue a magnet in the end to help catch any stray metal particles. I do that on the g-box plug as well.
Last edited by oilyamerican; 12/02/2012:50 pm.
They say every dog has his day.. Trouble is, nobody tells the dog which day it is !
