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[b][/b]I am attempting to bring a 1971 Triumph Tiger 650 back to life. It is an actual "barn find" that has sat for many years. I have been taking measures to restart it. In the process of getting oil pressure up by using the kick starter, there was an occasional lock-up of the kick starter. Upon removing that case and examining the quadrant and starter pinion gear, we noted that the starter pinion gear was badly worn. The kick starter quadrant appears virtually unworn. After installing a brand new pinion gear and aligning and reassembling the cover, there is still an ocassional clashing of the quadrant and pinion at the first tooth of the quadrant and the starter pinion gear. It occurs at the first, short tooth of the quadrant. There is no apparent wear of that tooth and it looks just like photos of new quadrants.
My question is: should that first short quadrant tooth be perfectly square as mine appears to be, or should it be slightly rounded at the top to facilitate engagement with the starter pinion?
Any ideas to prevent this problem will be appreciated.

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my 72 Bonneville (owned for 13 years) does this on occasion reach down put in 2nd gear rock bike select neutral and it frees up it's not necessary to let kicker return to top o stroke every time use clutch lever to let it start stroke at about the 9 or 10 oclock position and use foot to hold it there for next stroke if not start on first one nicely tuned bike will easily start with that amount of plunge dig?


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Originally Posted by jimmiejag
[b][/b]My question is: should that first short quadrant tooth be perfectly square as mine appears to be, or should it be slightly rounded at the top to facilitate engagement with the starter pinion?

The first quadrant tooth is often poorly cut which results in the clashing you describe and gets worse as the second quadrant tooth wears down.

A little grinding of the relieved tooth can improve the engagement.

Last edited by L.A.B.; 09/01/20 9:41 pm.
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Hi Jimmiejag, The '69 Bonnie is a bit worse, but even my '73 Tiger jams occasionally. Usually one jab down & up it will reset, sometimes takes 2. I've never had to put it in gear & push bike slightly or anything.

Hi LAB, can you post photo or sketch of how/where you reprofile tooth. Thanks!
Don


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Originally Posted by TR7RVMan
Hi LAB, can you post photo or sketch of how/where you reprofile tooth. Thanks!

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

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[Linked Image]
There are two common supplied after market kick starter pinion available. One with the the teeth that come to a point and an other that the top of the teeth are cut flat. The one with the flat will on occasions bind up. The one that the teeth come to a point rarely does.

57-0730.JPG
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That is a good tip about the pointed teeth. This seems a very common problem and mine jams on occasion but if I pull the clutch and prod gently it frees.

Dave

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Thanks LAB & John Healy! Much appreciated.
Don


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Originally Posted by dave jones
That is a good tip about the pointed teeth. This seems a very common problem and mine jams on occasion but if I pull the clutch and prod gently it frees.

Dave

My mongrel 650 that spans three decades does this occasionally, but at least it's better than unexpected slippage of the kickstart.

Does not the fact that it clears when pulling in the clutch indicate that it's something on the "engine side" of the clutch?

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Originally Posted by Dibnah
Does not the fact that it clears when pulling in the clutch indicate that it's something on the "engine side" of the clutch?

No. It’s the quadrant teeth failing to mesh with the pinion teeth.

Pulling the clutch lever allows the gears to be nudged around when you tap the kickstart.


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Originally Posted by Dibnah
[quote=dave jones]Does not the fact that it clears when pulling in the clutch indicate that it's something on the "engine side" of the clutch?

.

As TT says, lifting and releasing the clutch can move the position of the mainshaft just fractionally for the quadrant to engage with the ratchet pinion on the next attempt as the ball ramp mechanism rotates to 'lift' the clutch.

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Works sometimes with the Pre-Unit lever-operated clutch too, sometimes.


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Thanks LAB and TT, that eases my concerns.

I had a Japanese two stroke several decades ago where a balance weight fell out of the crankshaft when the bike was parked on the sidestand. Running well when I parked it, kickstart jammed at the next start. That was a dismal day.

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Good photos and information. Thanks!


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