Britbike forum Forums British motorcycles in general British motorcycles in general Barn find '72 TR6RV

Yes, thanks for that. Down the line I will do as you suggest. -BA

Today I changed the sump and tank oil and the primary oil. Wow, what a hassle draining the primary. Anyway, I noticed that there actually is a spark at each plug (not a good one) so I splashed a little 2-stoke mix in each hole (that's all I had on hand) and the old fossil fired a few times on one side only. So now I need to take that AMAL 930 off and get it cleaned up and operational. It's frozen shut but I'm sure I can fix it up easy enough. Stay tuned. I'll make a video of the first start-up. -BA

Slow and steady.

ALWAYS apply some form of lubrication (Never-Sieze, 20W50, chassis grease, what ever!) to spark plug threads before installing a spark plug. Even if you just took that plug out of that hole.

That's good to know, thanks. I've been giving them an occasional shot of WD-40. Now I will always do so.

Today I finally got my carb gasket set and put the 930 AMAL back together and on the engine. However the float valve is leaking badly so off it comes. I think the valve seat down in the bowl is crudded up but I was leary of messing around down there and ruining the surface. What can I do to restore this seat or do I need to get a new bowl? The old valve needle itself looked fine so I reused it since the carb kit did not include one. Thanks, -BA

Edit; I just watched a YouTube vid by Lunmad and I notice that he uses a different method for checking float height. Using his method my float was about .140 inch too high. I believe I will buy a new needle and adjust the seat if possible (not sure mine has the brass insert like his '73 Bonnie does). I still need to know how to clean or true the seat. -BA

The last garage I worked at also raced Rally cars, they asked me to change a set of plugs on a hot engine, but didn’t likely me using lubrication on the new plugs, so I pointed out that I didn’t want blaming for stripped threads so would do it my way.

sometimes people put that stuff on with a trowel and it gumz up the firing end. ive uzed a copper based antizieze for yearz, sparingly, with no problems.

sometimes they tighten the wazoolies out of em too, and that doesnt help

RE: WD-40:

Isn't that a "water dispersant", NOT a lubricant?

It appears to evaporate too quickly to be an "oil."

Not sure about it's volatility but it has been tested somewhat favorably as a penetrating oil and does seem to have it's uses as a lubricant, probably not too effective in this application I admit but remember, my engine is not running so heat is not a factor. The anti-cease copper formulas would seem to be more appropriate. -BA

Also, since this is an international forum, WD-40 is completely different between the UK, the U.S. and Australia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

Here is an excellent test of it's (U.S.formula) penetrating ability; ( it beat PB Blaster and Kroil) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

Here is my $200 treasure (now ~$300 with parts and oils) in the light of day after a quick cleaning.





Here is what I'm dealing with currently;







Even after thorough cleaning, adjusting and testing it still leaks worse than a sieve after installation due to overflowing bowl. -BA -ordered some petcocks so that I don't burn the place down during testing.

Might be worth going to a stay-up float.
https://www.thebonnevilleshop.com/p...r-triumph-norton-bsa-etc-2-pn-622-069-w/

It appears to be complete, or nearly so.

It's going to work up into a pretty nice bike.

BA,

Where exactly is it leaking from ? Also, as suggested, a Stay-up float should be on your list of things to buy. I would also buy a new brass Viton tipped float needle.

I don't know how you cleaned the carburetor but if you haven't done so, it and all of its metal components need to be submerged for a few days in Gunk Carburetor Parts Cleaner

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...xYdt4CO5vxoCFrEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds



Or Berryman Chem-Dip

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...ER1HxAYNmxoCsYwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds



Then thoroughly cleaned with small brushes, pipe cleaners, carb cleaner from a spray can and compressed air. Or, treat yourself and the bike to a brand new AMAL Premier 930 Concentric Carburetor.

MEK works really well for removing the varnish in carburetors. Being in California, you would probably have to order it from out of state (assuming it’s legal to do so) and MEK has probably been removed from any carburetor cleaners available locally.

By the time you’ve bought all the components to get that carb half decent you might as well have bought a new prem. it will come with the stay up float, aluminium float needle (which replaced the brass type) and anodised slide, plus new jets which will be to the correct size and not worn out.

That float bowl you have there has also been shaved at some point in its life also, it’s possible that the mounting face on the carb is also bent meaning a poor seal and a pita to pull up the pilot mixture.

Not sure how much they are in the US, but with the current GBP-USD rate it might be cheaper to buy direct from the UK.

Seconded !

Vintage Triumph Supply eBay

https://vintagetriumphsupply.com/in...-hand-single-carb-tr6r-tr6c-triumph.html

https://vintagetriumphsupply.com/in...nd-cable-right-hand-tr6-for-triumph.html

Got it squared away and it started 2nd kick! I was really shocked and the throttle was stuck a little too high because I need to lube the cable a bit more than I have already.

BA,

Congratulations, getting it to run !!

It looks like your kicker return spring needs some attention. Also, make sure your kill switch is working.

Thanks! It needs a few things and this start-up was not planned! I need to pressure-lube the cables, add an in-line oil filter to the return line (recommendations welcome) and un-stick the clutch. Also it only idles with the choke 1/2 closed, so I need to check the idle circuit for blockage. Float level is spot on.

For unsticking the clutch I am thinking about push-starting it in 1st gear, getting it up to the RPM where max torque occurs which is North of 5000 I believe, and nailing the throttle with the clutch pulled all the way to the bar. Then on and off the throttle a few times. If that doesn't work, I will have to buy a puller tool and go in there and have a look-see. Still just thinking at this point., -BA

You don't need a puller just to un-stick or remove the clutch discs; you just need to undo the clutch spring nuts and pull the discs and pressure plate out of the clutch basket. Once removed, I think you'll find they come apart pretty easily (if they're not already apart by then).

What you might need is a tool to remove the clutch spring nuts. This would be something like a very wide screwdriver with a notch in the center of the blade (to clear the stud that protrudes through the nut), and can be homemade, if you don't mind sacrificing a large screwdriver.

The clutch spring nuts have a "tit" on the underside of the head that's there to catch on the end of the spring and keep them from backing off. When removing them, you need to pry the spring back with a screwdriver so it doesn't try to shear the "tit" (or worse, ruin the spring, which I've done.)

Thanks Mark Z,

I answered this once but it isn't showing so here goes again;

This is music to my ears and thanks for the info about what to watch out for when doing the clutch operation. You probably saved me some grief. Thanks again! -BA

Yes, I soaked the carb in lacquer thinner for three days and then scraped and reamed my way through the considerable crap and blew all passages with compressed air. Apparently it needs to come off for more work on the idle circuit because it won't idle without some choke, maybe 1/2. Don't know about the $200 carb just yet. I still need to see if it has a transmission that works. Brakes sound rusty too, so it will slowly come around. Thanks for all the suggestions. -BA

In my experience, the only thing that really works on old really gummed up carbs is carburetor cleaner. Lacquer thinner, acetone, brake cleaner all work fine if the carb is just mildly dirty, but they don't seem to shift the the really gummed up fuel deposits you get from something that has been sitting for years with gas in it. The best thing you can do is give the carbs a bath in an ultrasonic cleaner, followed by going through it with spray can carb cleaner and, of course, the requisite .076" drill for the pilot jets. Having said that, I'll bet yours will run just fine if you spend $5 on a can of spray cab cleaner to go through them once more, and run the drill bit through the pilot jets.

Ed from NJ

Good points. I got the lacquer thinner idea from am old book "Glenn's Triumph..." but he wasn't talking about totally cloggred up carbs. I'll get some carb cleaner and give it a shot. I think the pilot jet is the stuck-up one. In another thread ( http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=323555 ) a guy says the pilot is .016, I think that is what you meant because .076 seems large for that purpose but I can't remember much from 40 years ago when I last worked on an AMAL. Also, if it makes a difference, this is a single carb (Tiger) bike. Thanks again, -BA

The pilot jet is 0.016” or 16 thou.
It is a #78 drill bit.
Same for AMAL Concentrics whether single or dual carb.
HTH

no no no don't do that.

they may be well and truly dry and stuck and won't come undone. if you're lucky you'll just shear the mainshaft key.

you don't need a puller. the basket can stay in place.

take off the pressure plate, winkle the steel and fibre plates out with two bits of bent wire. slather the fibre plates with white lithium grease very casually wiped off, put em back, install the pressure plate, adjust the springs and pressure plate lift and you're good.

in a stock 1972 you run the risk of grenading the gearbox putting a sudden load on it trying to free up the clutch.

don't do that. it's expensive.

you'll need a puller eventually, but not for this.