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Hello Ray,

Since the car has been de registered for many years ( Registration is cancelled if allowed to lapse for more than a year ) I can not simply get the car up to scratch and put it through for a WOF ( 6 monthly safety inspection ). Instead it has to go through a more in depth inspection known as certification to ensure it is safe for use. Unfortunately the government do not believe that a mechanic is qualified to comment on the integrity of any corrosion repairs carried out so they require seperate " Repair certification " by someone with panel beating experience. This needs to be issued before the safety inspection and the repairs have to be inspected and signed off before being finished and covered up. I had a customer some years ago spend $30000 restoring an old Ford Capri, the guy doing the rust repairs did not get them certified, when it came to getting the safety inspection the inspector insisted the back half of the car be sand blasted to uncover what he considered a questionable repair. The car was sold to someone in Australia!

Rod


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^^^Thanks for the explanation. That Capri owner must have been fit to be tied!

Your projects are always interesting, so I'm sure that a little diversion while you wait for the cylinder head to come back would be just fine. Pictures are always welcome.


'64 TR6R Plus some Twins from other countries (U.S., Germany, Japan)
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Originally Posted by R Moulding
Unfortunately the government do not believe that a mechanic is qualified to comment on the integrity of any corrosion repairs carried out so they require seperate " Repair certification " by someone with panel beating experience. This needs to be issued before the safety inspection and the repairs have to be inspected and signed off before being finished and covered up.
Around here, there are TWO requirements-

1. Vehicle must not be stolen

2. Amount paid must equal the amount the person at the counter tells you to pay

If those two requirements are met, you drive away legal.

(not really, but ALMOST. vehicle inspections are cursory, does the horn honk? Blinkers work? Paperwork has to match frame number, that's about it. As far as insurance, just meet the state minimum, even if it is only a TEMPORARY policy good for one month!)

Last edited by GrandPaul; 07/27/20 2:02 pm.

GrandPaul (does not use emoticons)
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Well, some years ago I spoke with a repair certifier. We arranged a plan of attack, I would repair a section of the car and give him a call to come take a look, he would then decide if he was happy putting his name to my work. With that in mind I've been trying to get this A post area back together. So having repaired the inner sill I then made up a new section for the inner sill step and wheel arch followed by a section of floor.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Today I gave the certifier a call, bearing in mind it's been a few years, he explained that the rules have now changed. I am no longer allowed to perform these repairs and have them certified unless I am an I-Car certified welder working in a panel shop. So that is pretty much the end of this project. The engine and box have already been sold and I'll start listing everything else this evening. The rolling shell will be sent to the scrap metal merchant. I'm a little gutted to be honest but better to find out now.

Rod


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Geez Rod, that sucks. Especially when you go the extra mile to craft a rebuild piece that will work as originally intended. Plus the associated bits and bobs.


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Sorry about your car project, Rod. At least you learned the new rules before you invested even more of your time and money than you already have. Happily, the money you save will let you keep paying the salaries of the people who squashed your project. They are quite sure they are smarter than you are, and they want to protect your children from riding in a car welded by someone they have not approved. Never mind that your kids probably would have loved to have that Morris Minor when they get a little older.


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El Stink-O


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Sad to see when self important bureaucracy gets in the way of individual endeavor and DIY capabilities.

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Well theres no point me crying over spilt milk. Since it was a complete car I have a selection of hard to come by first year parts that should make me a little coin. Since this is play money I'll use it for the application to use alternative paper work and try and get the Bonnie registered for the road, be nice to have it legal.

Rod


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I got the head back a little while ago, turns out it was a f$$k up of mammoth proportions. Long story short. The exhaust guides had to made 54 thou oversize in order to bring them Concentric with the seats and the new seat are recessed by 80-90 thou. Using the exhaust valves Len supplied, which have longer stems and the retainer groove higher up, I had seat pressures on the exhaust side of around 40 lbs. Using standard KPMI valves I was able to raise this to 55. So I've been saving pennies and got a set of oversize KPMI valves. Whilst this has not brought the stem protrusion exactly into spec I think its close enough given the methods I'm using to measure. It has however raised my seated pressures to 66 lbs which is within spec. The hole in the timing side port has been filled and built up with epoxy, I'm not convinced but the tech department at JB Weld assured me it would work. We can call it an expensive experiment!

As a comparison this is the head with standard valves
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
and again with oversize valves
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
This is Len's ( The Cylinder Head Shop ) exhaust valve against a stock KPMI valve.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
I can say that due to Len's valves having a dome on the cylinder side that this pic is not entirely accurate, however I contacted G&S who manufacture the valves and they confirmed they are not made to standard specs, the stems being longer etc. This contradicts what Len told me.

I did a dry assembly to check piston/valve clearance. Even with the thick head gasket ( Required because Len also skimmed the head ) the inlets were just touching the edge of the valve relief. I had the same problem using over size valves in my Bonnie but to a greater extent. I shaved the edge of the recess with a razor blade then sanded it smooth with some wet and dry. A re check showed I now have well over the 60 thou recommended minimum clearance.

I then went looking for some decent Rocker Cover gaskets, I ended up finding some Aluminium ones made locally and made the 15 minute drive to pick them up Saturday afternoon.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/mo...qid=3ea4c66ade6b4a0c98b7bd0158c734e1-001

Last edited by R Moulding; 11/08/20 5:28 am.

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With the Wife and the Bin Lids safely tucked up in bed I decided Saturday night I would get everything cleaned up and arranged ready for final assembly Sunday.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Then I got carried away and a pair of hours later
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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Looking very tidy.


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Of all the important life lessons I feel I should have learnt by now, " Never, storm out to the garage after a barney with the ball and chain " should be well up there. Yet I still do it......
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Bugger!


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"a barney with the ball and chain"
Let me guess - a fight with the wife?


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I always try and find the positive. In this case that part is replaceable, it’s not a part of the crank case. But yes, it’s not good to work on things when your frustrated.

It’s like having a beer, I never have one when the “I need a beer” moment comes on... I usually stick to I fancy a beer and everything’s good. Otherwise it’s a slippy slope.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Originally Posted by Allan G
It’s like having a beer, I never have one when the “I need a beer” moment comes on... I usually stick to I fancy a beer and everything’s good. Otherwise it’s a slippy slope.

THAT is why I keep my shotgun locked in a gun safe, locked in a closet. Because there are MANY times I feel like I "need" one!


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Originally Posted by GrandPaul
Originally Posted by Allan G
It’s like having a beer, I never have one when the “I need a beer” moment comes on... I usually stick to I fancy a beer and everything’s good. Otherwise it’s a slippy slope.

THAT is why I keep my shotgun locked in a gun safe, locked in a closet. Because there are MANY times I feel like I "need" one!


laughing yes I kinda guess that counts also grin


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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I've given up pot and cut right back on Beer, I don't keep any in the house. I am incapable of enjoying either in small quantities.

I tried finding a new replacement tach drive, seems the ones that are available are of a different design and look ugly. I've not been able to find a second hand one either. Rather than have something so small keep me of the road I pulled out the JB Weld.....[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

I've not really had a plan for this bike in terms of when it will be on the road again but Friday was a public holiday leading into a long weekend. I decided to try and have it running so I can take it to work Monday and run it through for a WOF. With that in mind I decided the first thing on my " To do list ", should be to write a " To do list "
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

By the end of Friday evening progress had been made
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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Well, it was not meant to be. I completed my list and pushed the bike outside into the evening sunshine. Pored in a gallon of 98 and checked for leaks, none found. Pulled the plugs with a view to kicking the motor over until the oil light went out. First kick and the return spring broke!


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Having slept on it Sunday night I decided I couldn't help myself. Monday morning I fitted a temporary return spring, fired the old tart up and road it to work. First time in a little over two years.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

She did pretty good, pulled well through the gears and got me there on time. I managed to prove that replacing the selector forks cured the gearbox from jumping out of second at 5000 rpm. Slicked it into third at 6500 just as I approached the parked traffic cop flashing his lights. I had a wee leak from the timing cover that required the screws tweaking up and the pinch bolt fell out of the top yoke but nothing serious.

So the old girl is legal again!


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Very nice indeed!


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Little under 20 miles on the bike and I've parked her up so I can sort the kick start and give the head a re torque. I've also registered it so I have no excuse. A couple of observations, the work on the head was really worthwhile. Having ridden the Bonnie which has a refreshed but not messed with head the TR6 was definitely lacking in power before, that is no longer the case and I have a lovely crackle to the exhaust note.

The other thing is that compared to the Bonnie with those big, wide bars it's quite a different ride. Cant say as I really noticed before but the UK bars on the TR6 mean I use my knees much more to get the bike to lean over and come back up. Not really a bad thing but you do have to ride it a bit more.

Once I pull the tank of I will have a better idea how the epoxy in the exhaust port is holding up but currently there are no signs of soot around the repair.


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Well, in the interest of honesty the kickstart return spring did not just break. Turns out I had failed to tighten the main shaft nut, I'm guessing something jammed and the spring snapped when I jumped on the lever first time. All fixed now and I spend some time giving the old girl a polish and coat of wax. Then for the first time in ages I got to just stand and motorcycle stare for a little while.


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Originally Posted by R Moulding
. . . Then for the first time in ages I got to just stand and motorcycle stare for a little while.
So, Rod, in that large, fancy, new garage, there is no space for your motorcycle staring chair?

Good on you for staying with the TR6 till it was done!


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Nah Ray, my comfy chair met its demise with the house move. It was so thick with paint and body filler dust that it just wouldn't have fitted in with the new look. I will look into a replacement when the current list of things to do reduces some more!


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