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#810195 05/25/20 1:34 am
Joined: Nov 2017
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D
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Not him, my 69 triumph 500. It started missing and then back firing and then died. No lights either. I checked the battery and it's got almost 13 volts. The in line fuse is good. Could it be the diode?


69 Daytona/ scrambler
02 BMW r1150r
assorted vintage dirt bike's
Triumphs on eBay
dale sonny #810196 05/25/20 1:45 am
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Ignition switch is a likely candidate. Try by passing it.


1978 Bonneville T140E
1974 Trident
1970 BSA Thunderbolt
1971 Norton Commando
1972 Norton Commando
1973 Norton Commando
1974 Norton Commando
2018 Kawasaki Z900RS


Everything will be alright in the end. If its not alright, its not the end.
1 member likes this: dale sonny
dale sonny #810197 05/25/20 1:53 am
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It's a new switch but that doesn't always mean it's ok.. Thanks


69 Daytona/ scrambler
02 BMW r1150r
assorted vintage dirt bike's
dale sonny #810200 05/25/20 3:20 am
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Use a test probe to see if you are getting voltage to the switch.

Last edited by Excalibur; 05/25/20 3:21 am.
dale sonny #810206 05/25/20 5:46 am
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Hi Dale, What ignition system are you using?

If Zener diode goes short circuit, it will blow fuse or melt wire harness if too large of fuse is installed. It Diode goes open circuit, the battery can overcharge. However if you ride with headlamp on all the time & have incandescent normal BPF bulb, the lighting system draw is such it pretty much uses up the current such Zener is not turned on or barely turned on. Unlikely Zener is cause of dying.

As suggested your volt meter or even a cheap test light is needed to see where the fault is. Sometimes with only a whisker of wire, volt meter will show ok, but test light will be dim indicating a poor circuit.

Whatever you do, don't buy anything as a guess. You want to find the real root problem(s) & correct them. That leads to a real repair that will leave you with very reliable machine. Also is by far the most cost effective way to repair.

Just because the fuse looks good visually doesn't mean it is. They can fracture under the end caps, plus fuse holder can be faulty. Start with checking both sides of fuse holder. Use a needle if necessary to reach into the back side of fuse holder or connectors to read voltage if volt meter probe is too fat to reach in.

Next put one probe on head fin, other on battery - negative. You should have power. This tests ground from battery.

Visually examine every last inch of wire you can possibly see. Wiggle & tug on any connectors to check for loose connection. The metal tube inside the snap connectors can/will split lengthwise leaving only the tension of old hard rubber to hold bullet connectors it.

Next move to ignition switch & check that you have constant power at one terminal & then power comes out other terminal with key on.
We'll go from there.

Good thing is the fault is constant at this time so you should be able to pin point exact problem.
Don


1973 Tiger 750
dale sonny #810229 05/25/20 2:00 pm
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Thanks for the info. I will look at it tonight. My thinking is the switch is good since this issue took a few miles before it quit. I thought it was a draw on the battery since it slowly got worse and drained the battery. I have a meter and test light so I will do some checking.


69 Daytona/ scrambler
02 BMW r1150r
assorted vintage dirt bike's

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