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Yes, that's it exactly, thanks. It goes here:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Only problem is, I need to remove the engine from the frame (again!) to replace it. Aarrgggh!

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You might want to wipe a cotton bud with some gasoline on the tip around that hole, it looks like it’s full of crud.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Yes indeed.

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You don't have to pull the engine out, you can start the plug with your fingers and just cut an allen key down a bit
to nip it up or use a ball headed key, it should go.

Last edited by NickL; 04/21/20 6:06 am.
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Just a thought, if your missing that one there, are you missing the other one also? It’s a few inches further back.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

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There are 2 sets screws, both underneath the case on the timing side, near the PRV. You won't get an allen wrench in there, sorry!

btw your kick start ratchet gear looks pretty worn

Last edited by Danam; 04/21/20 4:44 pm.
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Yep, I ut the other one back in but for some reason just missed that one. I took the engine out of the frame, fixed it, and also noticed an oilway that was blcoked by grit from cleaning, that I had also missed. Sheesh, I'm not so good at this stuff. Anyway, now all fixed.

Yes, I'm tempted to replace the kickstart ratchet.

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Hi
If you missed one oilway what about the rest of them
Blasting media is great at wrecking engines !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

John

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+1 on John's comment on blasting media. eek

I also think that the kickstart ratchet should be renewed.
Good luck with buying a proper one. I have been recently supplied with two of them (IIRC made by MCA :mad), both were not to the original dimensions bore-wise and bushes had to be tailormade to suit the bores.

I hope pattern parts' quality is better on your side of the pond.


Cheers!

Ph.


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My kickstart ratchet looks like that. works fine.
How did you get on shimming the layshaft?


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Slowly. I've ordered some thicker thrust washers and they should arrive soon.

I did do (I thought) a thorough clean of all me orifices but missed one entirely. The others are clean as the proverbial.

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Still waiting for the larger thrust washer so I can reinstall the gearbox, so I decided to press on with the cylinder block

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Installed the inlet cam and rockers:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Now just waiting for a tap to arrive to I can clear one of the threads for the cylinder head nuts prior to installing it

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[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

I don’t like those circlips with long tails.


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Me too.......like in Norton with the JCC pistons , they are prone to fail , not for me I put real seager clips.......!

Last edited by marinatlas; 04/26/20 9:19 am.
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I was looking more at the scuffs and thread marks on the pistons.

What is the grey stuff on the gasket?


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
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Looks like the grey stuff on the gasket maybe some kind of gasket sealer?

I agree with the comments about the circlips, they look a bit crude and loose, maybe a failure point in future.

Searching on Google I found a type of circlip made my Carillo called Kranm Lox, see This Link, the tool comes complete with a special installation tool.

Interesting video about these circlips Here

These circlips are listed on page 185 in the Carillo catalogue located Here, so I assume you can order them from your local Carillo dealer or direct.

Last edited by gunner; 04/26/20 11:53 am.

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While you are waiting, that divot in the cylinder head ( valve cover mating surface) should be fixed or it will leak.
Which oil passageway was blocked with blasting media? Just wondering how you would safely and completely clean that out on assembled cases. Unfortunately it doesn’t take much of that stuff to destroy an engine.

https://i.imgur.com/JZQQyKe.jpg

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They grey stuff is Hondabond. Yep, the divot's on the list...

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Hi
In the photo of the piston that (excuse for a) circlip is ready to make a bid for freedom
I would go back and replace them with plain wire circlips
Seeger circlips should not be fitted to pistons designed for wire circlips, another recipe for disaster

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The circlips are all seated well in their grooves and can rotate if pushed around with a screwdriver. I tried pulling the ends with needle-nosed pliers to see if the circlip wanted to jump and it seemed well seated.

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I’ve used those types of circlips many times with no problems. What I would do though is not leave the end of the circlip within the open area, ie fit it so it resembles the letter C and both ends of the clip are then fully supported.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

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68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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i think its important to install circlips with the open ends at the cutout, the worst way is to install then so they look like a C, they should look like an omega sign with the gap at the bottom, if installed like a C so the ends are at 90 degrees to the axis of travel then the accel, decel of the piston at each end of the stroke can cause the clip ends to move.


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Good point Gavin, I’ve always made sure that the ends of the clip are not within the open part of the piston, I’ve never had an issue but will do it this way from now on.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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To me it looks like the circlip wire is too thick and they are not fully seating in the piston recess. I would try fitting some circlips with thinner wire and see if they seat any better.


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On your head, two things I would double check:
  • The spring washers on the inlet shaft: check that it isn't caught on the nut side, and that it's still springing. Hard to tell in the pics but it has a tendency to get caught by the grooves in the shaft and end up squished against the final washer.
  • Looks like the rocker cover studs were replaced with threaded rod (one is missing). Take a good look at the front-center stud hole. It appears to be stripped at the top. This is a tough place to fix as there isn't a ton of meat to drill for an insert.


Lastly, I'm surprised no one mentioned the oil that appears to have been added to the rings prior to the ring compressors going on.

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