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Mark Z Offline OP
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This is primarily in response to TR6Ray's query in the "tank rubbers" thread, but I think it may be of help to others who may have to deal with a 1967 fuel tank, so I started a new thread. The 1967 fuel tank is unique, and as I learned the hard way, improper mounting can lead to the breaking of bits which are getting harder and harder to source as time goes on.

The first photo shows the distance from the fuel tank to the handlebar mounting bolt. I know you can't read the ruler in the photo, but the distance is 9/16".
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
The next photo shows the height of the fuel tank relative to the frame, and the location of the lower bracket. Ray asked, how does the rubber bushing stay in place? The answer is, it fits into the bracket very tightly. For many of the rubber bits, I've found it's better to make your own; then you can determine the needed dimensions and the consistency of the material used. This bushing must be quite firm, in order to keep the fuel tank from rocking side to side, which can lead to breakage, primarily at the top mount. My bushing happens to have a flange on the end, but this is not necessary. I also added a rubber washer between the bracket and the frame to cushion the bracket a bit.
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
Since I was taking pictures, I thought I'd also address the center mount assembly. The rubber bushing, which gets inserted into the chrome cup, and the flat washer, slip over the sleeve shown in the last photo. The shouldered nut however, butts up against the end of the sleeve. This is important because you don't want a lot of downward force against the chrome cup; that will break the cup.
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
This photo shows the rubber O-ring and trim pieces. On my '67 L, which was original when I bought it, there was also a flat metal ring, or washer, which I believe is also shown in the Spares Manual. However, whether above or below the O-ring, assembly with that metal ring simply DOES NOT WORK. It does not allow the ends of the trim pieces to fit into the slots in the chrome cup, and results in breaking off the ends of the trim pieces and/or the chrome cup.
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
Finally, a picture of the center mount bolt and sleeve, which are correct NOS parts, and the tank rubbers. I like to tape the rubbers in place to facilitate assembly. The front rubber measures 1 1/4" in height, and the rear rubber measures 3/4" in height.
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
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Mark, please educate me. What makes the ‘67 tank unique, aside from the cap? Is the shape different, and causes this Clearance issue? Had 5 A65s and never noticed a shape difference in height, always thought the cap was the only concern. Interesting for sure! I do know my ‘67 tank to bars clearance is SCARY close at turned to stop!


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Mark Z Offline OP
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Well, the '66 tank does not have that center chrome strip or a ridge down the center or the center chrome "cup" (trim holder), right? I'm not sure, but I think the '67 might be the only year with the chrome trim. Also, the '66 tank being flat-bottomed, I would guess the lower bracket is a bit different as well. My comment about the '67 tank being unique referred mostly to the top center mount though.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
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Mark Z Offline OP
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I stand corrected. I just looked at some photos and I see that '68-'70 models also have the chrome trim down the center. I guess the '67 tank is not so unique after all. It is, however, the first year that the bottom is not flat like the '65 and '66 tanks, and the last year of the Lucite badges.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
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This is a good example as I had a ‘66 that I “assumed” by way of patina was original. I forgot about the flat bottom and the smooth top, center cap!! Anyhow, back to the fit on the ‘67 - ON, I guess it’s a matter of trial and error with the frame rubbers, at least I’ve never been able to remember the order over the long period of project rebuilding. Of course the different fork top clamps makes a difference too!


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Mark Z Offline OP
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Well, I can tell you that the tank on my '67 Lightning, which was original when I bought it in 1972, sat just like this one, so I guess the 1.25" and .75" rubbers are "correct", as things go. But after reading and thinking about TR6Ray's post, I would consider shaving another 1/16" to 1/8" off the rubbers if that would keep the handlebar bolts from hitting the trim when the wheel is turned to full lock.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
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I believe the 67 tank is one year only because of the small plastic badge. 68-70 have the large metal one.


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Shaving the rubber would be a good idea as you mentioned. And if done “just enough”, wouldn’t disengage the bottom bracket rubber from the frame spike. I think I’d do that if I have my tank off again for some reason. That close fork to tank proximity still makes me nervous!


Down to 1 BSA, 2 Triumphs, 1 '56 Chevy
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