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quinten #897868 12/13/22 12:27 am
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Quinten, you are correct: I meant to write 'engine held by the ignition timing tool', not TDC. I edited the original post so as not to confuse the unwary. Thanks again

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Ekhm, those carbs need a proper cleaning I mean ultrasonic bath + checking all the channels and specially these 2 orifices under a slide in a carb body. Small o rings on the air and slide screws need changing for a new ones, connected surfaces on a bowl to a body and body to cylinder head have to be checked for straightness and repaired if necessary for a start. After this fuel level has to be checked and if float needles are aluminum with viton covered cones you can assemble them and install on the engine.
Personally I changed bottom plastic plugs for a brass plugs and used longer ticklers to not smell fuel on my fingers all the time. The best set of gaskets for them I had from John Heale company, but I forgot the name of it. As a rule I'd change 106 needle jets, which tend to wear quite quickly. No 78 drill bit is a best tool to clean and size a pilot jet buried deep into a carb body.

Last edited by Adam M.; 12/13/22 4:08 pm.
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OK, I'm back! I had a brush with Covid over the Christmas/New Year period. As I'm fully vaxxed and boosted it was like a severe cold for a few days, then tiredness, then a relapse for two days, then tiredness. I still get tired easily so I'm not fully recovered from it, but am around 90%.

Anyway, I gave the swingarm back to the guys who pressed the bearings in, and they had a go at reaming it out so the pin would move freely. Only partially successful, there's still a step at the point where the two bushes meet, but it is a lot better: I can get it all the way through and back out again now.

I set up like so:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Get the swingarm roughly in place, and then mount the other end into the two Shocks. This just holds everything roughly in place. Then smear the pin with anti-seize, and start pushing the pin through:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
I needed to resort to a rubber hammer and then a bigger hammer as it went through, but it was never too hard: just had to knock it in. I used an old bolt to guide the locking hole over the hole in the frame as it got closer:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
and got it through!
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
On with the serrated washer and nut:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
and a nice shiny M8 Allen head bolt and Nyloc nut on the locking hole:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Job's a good'un! I hope.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Swingarm moves smoothly around the pivot with no tight spots.

Last edited by Psychopasta; 01/09/23 1:17 am. Reason: Typo
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Thats probably not a good thing.

Your swing arm if using that spindle should be the silent bloc bush type, you would set the suspension travel to the preloaded amount (ie the weight of you on the bike with the bike on its wheels) and then tighten the swing arm. it will then lock the centres of the swing arm bushes to the frame and there should be enough movement on the bush to allow the extra distance travelled on the suspension.

What you dont want to do is to tighten the spindle with no preload, likewise you don't want the swing arm to move too freely when it is tightened up. The arm should support its own weight if the shock absorbers were removed.


Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...

Now lets all have a beer!

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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What the heck!

Has somebody assembled a silentbloc swing arm as a steel on steel bearing??

The movement is in the rubber.


Amateur Loctite enthusiast.
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The arm does support it's own weight, but it can move if pushed.

Have I got this wrong? As far as I can see it is the same as I disassembled.

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I’ve never had an A65, but on my Norton and various other makes, the inner steel sleeve of a Silentbloc is gripped in the frame by the long stud (or spindle) clamping the frame web and whatever sleeve is between the Silentblocs. The outer steel part of the Silentbloc is a tight press fit in the swing arm and turns with the swing arm.

I’m not sure what has been done in this case. The thread is too long.


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That's what I've done. The silent blocs are fitted into the swing arm, and then the pin goes through the frame. You can see the bushings here:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
The pin is then pushed though
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
and held on the other side by a serrated washer and nut
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Did I miss anything?

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What’s the star washer looking thing behind the head (the pear shaped part) of the spindle?


Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...

Now lets all have a beer!

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Its an m8 bolt and Nylon nuts that presents the pin from rotating

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Originally Posted by Psychopasta
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

The star shaped thing here?


Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...

Now lets all have a beer!

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Allan G #899839 01/09/23 10:15 pm
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the gray stuff ? ... grease ?

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It's anti-seize, that I covered the pin in, being pushed off as the pin is inserted.

Last edited by Psychopasta; 01/10/23 10:45 pm.
1 member likes this: Allan G
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