The resistor used with the points ignition to momentarily energize the 6 volt coils with 12 volts during starting, must be removed from the electrical circuit!!!
The resistor in question on the pick-up plate should be 180 ohms (brown, grey, brown - with a gold band indicating it is a 5% accuracy). Earlier units had a different resistor.
If you have one of the newer pick-p plates missing third coil the are missing the coil should be facing the alternator. The earlier unit, with three coils, the coil adjacent to the alternator would pick-up RF and confuse the triggering circuit.
One thing that people fail to observe in this installation is the wires that served the points, two of which now serve the Boyer
pick-up, runs into the wiring harness at the same point where the alternator wires do. They run parallel to each other. This allows the Boyer
pick-up wires to pick-up RF from the alternator wires. The signal picked up from the alternator wires confuses the trigger unit in the control box and the bike will not start.
When diagnosing any electronic ignition one must pay close attention to Tridentman's: "You need a good battery
, not a new battery
Electric starters produce a heavy load on the electrical system, especially the battery
. Wire sizes, and the condition of all connections, will cause problems even with a good battery
. This is especially true as the starter ages.
One must pay close attention to all of the connections in the circuit that feeds the electronic box. Starting at the battery
, then the fuse holder, ignition switch, kill button and all of the electrical connectors must not be loose, be clean and have NOT gone high resistance. You can get a pretty good size voltage drop between the battery
and the control unit even if you can read battery
voltage at the feed wire attached to the unit. Because the Boyer
, and other electronic units, turn off when there is no signal from the trigger plate, there is no load on the circuit. NO LOAD - NO VOLTAGE DROP. To actually measure the voltage drop you will have to create a load. You can do this by jumping the feed wire directly to the coil, thus creating a load (current draw). Then you can check to see if you have battery
voltage at the point the feed wire is attached to the coil. On Triumphs of that era the kill button's two lead white connector inside the headlamp is one of the first places I start looking for a connection that has gone high resistance. Often you will find them turned brown, or black, from the heat generated by the resistance.