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perfect.tommy
perfect.tommy
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btour Offline OP
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Has anyone tried treating the shifting parts to prevent them from rusting?

For example could they be powder coated? Just painted? Treated in phosphoric acid?


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
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if they're rusting in there, then the same goo is bathing the gears and shafts further inside. maybe a better solution would be to just change the oil more frequently. if it sits a lot, then the oil won't warm up frequently enough to evaporate condensation or any rain that trickles down the cable.


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If the bike is not ridden long enough to cook out the condensate, maybe once every other month, grab a friend and heel the bike all the way over on its timing side. That'll coat all the bits in gearbox oil.....

Steve


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Copper plate the parts. Get a bottle of Root Kill and a 1 amp battery charger and dip all the pieces.
It should make the parts last much longer.

Cheers,
Bill


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Don't know if it does any good, anytime I have a gearbox apart, I'll drill a small (5/16) hole in the inner cover as close to the bottom as possible. I figure it's got to help to circulate oil into the outer cavity. Maybe just a feel good......

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btour Offline OP
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All good thoughts. I am in there now. Not a sign of rust. All parts were covered in oil.

Bill, I am interested in how you do that. I never tried it. Could you take it on step further and coat the copper with nickel?


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
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Yes, Caswell sells nickel plating kits. Hard steel parts like springs should be aged or baked to purge hydrogen after plating, otherwise they might be brittle enough to break.

Cheers,
Bill


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Btour--I always smear the springs, pawls etc with grease while assembling them.
Seems to work OK.
HTH

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Hi btour, If you get a chance, could you email me photos of both outer cover, & the shifter parts & inner cover also. I'm very curious as to what you have. Thanks.

Don


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I like the blue greese used for boat trailer wheel bearings that are regulary under water.


1968 T120R
1972 T120RV
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HI Mike Baker, Hmmm.... interesting thought about drilling a hole there. I've pondered that. I've wondered why factory didn't do that. As I expect you've found the condensation seems to collect right there. So I'd agree it doesn't seem to circulate much if any oil there down low. I suction it out with a small tube as I have an oil sucker for changing car oil.

I had my lower clutch cable end pull off. It falls right down to where the old inside trans speedo drive used to be. I've done others as well & found in same place. Bit of a chore to find & fish out on the first one. Some leave it, but with my luck I'm afraid it would end up inside gear case & tangle in the gears. Not likely, but with my luck...

The way it is from factory when you drain trans oil, the part below the oil passage hole just behind & slightly below lay shaft doesn't even drain. That seems where the condensation collects. That's why I suction it.

I was thinking more like a 1/8 hole as cable end couldn't pass through. Maybe that's really to small to help & it would drain slowly.

Following up, after drilling the hole has it actually made a difference with condensation trapped there?
Don


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btour Offline OP
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Don,

The springs look pristine. I think I will leave the centering ones in place. I don't think it is even necessary to remove the C cover. Those springs have a bit of yellow paint on them. They are pretty stiff. Perhaps the T140 ones you speak off.

Pics sent let me know when you get them.


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Am I being thick?
They shouldn't rust if the bike is actually used and the oil changed properly.
Take it for a thrash so the oil gets nice and hot.

Drilling a hole? How do you stop the oil leaking out?

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I believe he meant a small hole in the inner case near the bottom so the oil trapped below the cast hole can drain out with the rest of the gearbox.
You should be able to fish out the cable end with a magnet on a flexible wand.
The kickstart gear sits in the oil so vigorous kicking will throw oil at the shifter and lifter parts.

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I recently changed all the springs, plungers, plunger springs and buttons on my 59 5Ta and was recommended to coat all new parts in grease prior to reassembly.

Turns out I couldn't find my tub of grease but the copaslip was sitting pretty, so I liberally coated everything thing in that. All seems well in there atm

















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I cannot say for sure it helps, Don. Whether it's changing the oil often enough, riding regularly, or the little hole I drill, I don't have H2O problems in my bikes.

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btour Offline OP
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Originally Posted by DMadigan

The kickstart gear sits in the oil so vigorous kicking will throw oil at the shifter and lifter parts.


lol. With all the starting problems last year, that would explain how well oiled everything was. What a way to oil it.


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.

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