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wadeschields
wadeschields
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Joined: Sep 2012
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JiminNC Offline OP
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Another chapter for the book of Live and Learn. As part of winter prep work, I pulled the primary cover to look things over and when trying to unscrew the clutch nuts to look over the friction plates, found one could not be removed with the right tool... so had to use vise grips to remove the last one... figured if chewed up would just replace the one.

Once removed,...I found out why the one was tight... all 4 cush basket screws had backed out and the chewed up remains of all the cush rubbers were in the bottom of the basket, and guessing that one hard to remove was probably under too much pressure from within. Is apparent that did not use lock-tite and now know that peening the ends is also recommended... so... live and learn I will.

New stuff ordered from one of our sponsors includes new cush rubbers, friction plates, clutch nuts.

Questions for this forum:

My bike is a WD - fitted with a chain Tensioner, but I noticed that the spacers on the stud between the rotor & clutch were not adequate to make up the gap and as such, when I put this together last, I really tightened that Tensioner arm at an angle such that it was too tight, such that I could not adjust to take up the slack. There are 2 different sized spacers... and I had originally installed the longest behind the Tensioner arm and the shortest directly behind the stator, but that arrangement is not enough for the arm to not be cocked on the stud. Is additional spacing ok to add address this?

I want to remove the chain wheel and regrease the bearings but reckon to do so I need to remove the rotor to pull it all off. Hoping I don't need to pull the crank sprocket. I know sprocket is fairly new, replaced less than 1,000 miles ago, If I can avoid pulling the sprocket that would be nice, but it appears I do need to pull the stator? If so, anything I need to care for when doing that? Or is there a trick to removal without removing the stator?

And finally... while in the primary side, any other suggestions for inspection and replacement?
I'm using air impact sockets to attach the clutch.
Assume is ok to do same if I have to remove and reinstall the stator?

Anything to care for on reassembly other than.

1. Loc tite on cush basket screws and peen them on the back plate.
2. Grease up the bearings and cush spider.
3. Fresh friction plates going in.

The primary chain, sprocket and bearings are all fairly new, so should be good.

Thanks all...


'67 WD-B40
'71 A65L
'71 TR25T
BSA on eBay
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Posts: 11,355
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Quote
There are 2 different sized spacers...


There should be 2 equal spacers, the correct thickness is the long spacer minus the thickness of the tensioner arm divided by 2.


Sprocket has to come off to get the chain wheel off too, a puller takes the centre off the taper on the main shaft and keeps the bearings in place.

1. Loctite on cush basket screws and peen them on the back plate.

Yes

2. Grease up the bearings and cush spider.

Bearings yes but not the spider or use silicone grease there to protect cush rubbers.

3. Fresh friction plates going in.

Check the steel are flat too.

Joined: Sep 2012
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JiminNC Offline OP
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Thanks Kommando,

Appreciate your reply.

All set here - just waiting for parts arrival and time to put things back together next weekend.

Jim


'67 WD-B40
'71 A65L
'71 TR25T

Moderated by  Allan G, Jon W. Whitley 

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