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Wassell Micro MK1 electronic ignition
If these are the same as the first batch sold some years ago, they're a licensed copy of the Boyer
-Bransden MicroMark3 analogue, superseded by the B-B Mark4 several years ago.
Do you need anything else to go with it for it to work?
On a twin, I always fit '6V' coils with electronic ignition. This might sound odd to you - as you know your bike has 12V electrics - if you aren't familiar with with the difference between connecting electrical components 'in parallel' and 'in series':-
. On your bike, coils were originally switched by points; the two coils were connected 'in parallel'; the Voltage of coils connected 'in parallel' must be the same as the system Voltage (i.e. 12V on your bike);
. Including the Wassell, all electronic ignitions suitable for your bike have only one connection to the coils, so multiple coils must be connected 'in series'; 'in series', the system Volts are divided between the components so, on your bike, system 12V divided by 2 coils equals 6V each coil. :bigt
As this is your first British bike, if you do replace the original '12V' ignition coils with '6V', I suggest the coils that look the same - they'll fit in the same frame mounting brackets. :bigt
Coils with two HT leads are common and many Britbike owners fit them with electronic ignition; however, such coils vary enormously in quality, you have to understand electrical resistance and how to check a coil, and you have to be prepared to fabricate a non-standard mounting for the coil.Fuse
Although not shown in wiring diagrams, I fit a 5A standard automotive blade fuse/holder in the supply to an electronic ignition.Multi-meter
Risking stating the obvious, your A65 is getting on for half-a-century old; any electronic ignition is only part of the ignition circuit and won't tolerate shonky near-half-century-old connections and other components; the rest of the electrics - including the battery
and charging system (alternator, rectifier and Zener diode regulator) must be near-perfect.
So welcome to the world of electrical fault-finding. If you don't have one already, the first electrical fault-finding tool you'll need will be at least a cheap multi-meter (with at least scales for reading resistance (Ohms, horseshoe-shaped symbol) and a little over 12V, you'll add a more-expensive meter later). As you're in the US, you'll also likely add British Wiring
on speed-dial ...
basket case and is my first British bike.
Magpie Syndrome is the temptation to acquire lots of shiny new trinkets.
If original points, auto-advance unit, condensers and 12V coils are in the "basket", you might want to consider at least getting the bike up and running before fitting an e.i.? Apart from they'll obviously plug straight into an original harness without any modifications, when you go to start your assembled rebuild for the first time and it won't, you need as few potential causes as possible. Also, no component is 100%-reliable, you'll be pissed if you find the cause is a dud e.i. you bought ages ago and can't get a replacement or a refund.
Otoh, if you get the bike running on points, then fitting an e.i. mostly restricts problems to newly-fitted components. :bigt
Btw, same advice applies to the charging system. You'll undoubtedly read at least one post that says the original separate rectifier and Zener diode were junk, and what transformed the poster's life was a shiny new combined regulator/rectifier. Speaking as someone who's run all his Britbikes on shonky old rectifiers 'n' Zeners for thirty-five years (that've somehow managed to run electronic ignitions, electric starters, 100/55 quartz-halogen headlamps and other modern conveniences for tens of thousands of miles
), again I suggest at least getting the bike running with what's in the 'basket' before straining your plastic?