Britbike forum Forums British Motorcycle specific Brands Bsa bulletin board 66 Victor up on the bench

After the OVBSAOC meet in August I got excited about all of the Victors there and decided to move my locked up bike to the front of the to-do list.

I've had it soaking in Kerosene for a long time and it didnt seem to be working . Yesterday I pulled it out from under the covers to possibly through it on the truck and take it to NYC with me to start taking it apart. For shits and giggles I sat on it and put my foot on the kicker and low and behold- It moved freely in a downward motion! .... I got so excited that I kept on kicking it.... Yeee Haaaw !! Removed all the duct tape from points cover and around the oil cap. Cover has been repaired (see photo) but the oil tank is full of clean new oil... Thats a plus I said to my self.



Lets see if we have spark. Nope !

Got some dangling wires but they look like they should have lead to the headlight? Maybe? See photo



Point are moving . Maybe my ET coil is bad. Dont know ... But I pulled the seat off and found some strange things...

Is this the way a 66 seat mounted?


And the rear mounts?







Is there something missing here. Should there be another screw hole at the button for the round cover. Hard to see in the shadows but there is not a hole like there is at the top


Looks like a student had this bike from new or close to new

Could have even been Wanda who was the previous owner. (She was a babe in her photos at least)

Some PO welded the rear fender mounts it seems. I think my seat mount is bolted, I'll go look later. Yep there should be a screw hole at the bottom of the points cover. I'll look and see how my wires are on my 66 and try and get back to ya. Nice start! Gene

So fender mounts are correct except have been welded?

The slots in the U-shaped bracket on the seat slide over the top shock mounting bolts. That bracket is a little flimsy and with a lard ass rider, fore and aft movement of the seat is prone to crack the seat pan at the captive bolts.

The 3 way block connects the coil under the seat with the points (white/black)and the ET alternator. Seat is from a 67 model. The 66 should have a single saddle which bolts through the vertical tubes welded to the frame loop ahead of the shock mounts. You can also use that twin seat bracket to mount a single saddle to the shock mounts; I've done that on my 68 frame. Rear mudguard mounts are correct for 65,66 &67, but have been re welded. Should be 2 screw holes in the cover each with a pillar bolt to mount the cover screws.

Enjoy!

You only need b/w, b/y and red wires from the stator to run. Brown/blue and brown/green are headlight and taillight.

Hiya,
On a long disused bike the crap and carbon blackening settles to the bottom of the oil tank
So the first time you go to attempt to run the engine all the crap gets sucked into the engine

Drain and clean out the oil tank and crankcase !!!!!

HTH
John

Also I don't think the round lugs or socket head screws on the rear frame loop are supposed to be their. They look like some DIY add on for the seat to rest on.

Larry

I can't see the socket head screws you mention but those tube lugs on the rear loop forward of the shock mounts are bog standard. Fitted to all C15C, B44E and B44EA frames. The bolts go from underneath and screw into the seat base of the short single seat.

The socket head screws look to be on the bracing bar at the rear of the oil tank, this looks to be an addition of a piece of angle iron, no idea if the seat rests on it or not.

I will have to look again but I think the coil and rectifier ect. are mounted to the bar..... I will look agin this weekend.

On '66 & '67 frames, the angled iron brace/bracket is the standard mounting point for the oil tank and coil bracket. On your bike someone used socket head screws to mount the coil (instead of stock bolts).

Thats helpful. I need to look at the workshop manual I have. I assume it will have a wiring diagram as well.

Is there a difference in the side cover and point plate between 66 and other years? I still need to tear into the motor so I might as well put it back together with nice parts if I can find them.

The Points plate (4ca) and sidecover are both the same for '66 & '67. Lots changed in '68 like the sidecover due to a different oil tank and mounting method, and points changed to 6ca that relies on a remote fitted condensor. I've updated my point plate and mounted the points near the coil.
Adam

In case u can't find it...

Awesome Thanks. Does anything ever show the routing of the wires? My wires seem routed in a weird way. As in the wire from the rear break switch goes up to the seat on the outside of the frame toward the coil area, then back to the brake light. Doesnt seem right but its too short to route it any other way . Needs more investigation.

No, that routing is correct. There should be a small hole in the L. side of the fender near the filter housing for the brake wire to be routed inside the fender (and clipped in) to the taillight housing.

Using Shaun's advice of getting in the workshop for a bit at a time, I got a little deeper into the Victor this weekend. That and the boss wasnt around to push me on the kitchen project.

Things I have learned and things I have questions about.


The rear most cover bolt was long and had a nut on the back side. Is that correct or a bodge?

I hadnt noticed that my side cover also had a bodge. Well a repair I should say. Looks like the foot peg went through it at some point and it has a brown epoxy or something sealing it up on the inside. I think I will try to find a better cover for the rebuild...

The clutch basket.... (The large bit that the chain rides on) is very loose. I can rock it laterally and in and out. Seems like something is wrong there as well.



Next question. The left side foot peg on an A65 is reverse threaded. This one is not. Is that correct for the Victor?

And the nut on both sides are the same but a 20mm wrench fits better then a Whitworth. Is that correct?


Lastly . I was getting short on time and as soon as I found myself reaching for a screwdriver to pry the oil pipes off I decided to quit before I damage the surfaces. BUT .... Its not coming off.... I removed the nut and washer and kerosene (from the stuck piston) started leaking out . The pipe moves a tiny bit back and forth but will not pull off. and doesnt move up and down either.... Am I missing something?

The long bolt is correct, it would originally have screwed into a rear chain oiler, its best replace by a nut as it sprays too much oil around.



Either the rollers are worn or more likely the outer clutch inner face worn, I take a few thou off the clutch inner to restore normality.



Should be as A65 until 70 and then the reverse thread was dropped



Yes cycle thread but Whitworth sized heads




Not once the nut and washer are off the stud the oil pipe manifold should pull off, its a leak point until they added O rings to the manifold so suspect gasket goo holding on too well.

[quote]]Should be as A65 until 70 and then the reverse thread was dropped [quote]]


On 66 and 67 frames, the footrests are held on by a long straight through stud with R/H thread on both ends. A L/H thread was not necessary because the flat on the footrest engages with a flat on the frame lug. 68 frames had a L/H threaded short stud and taper fitting footrest on the left side.

Vic is right, had forgot the earlier footrests. The C15 had the A65 setup, why they dropped it for 66/67 and then reinstated it for 68 is a mystery.

The 1966 & 1967 B44 Victor frames are the same as the C15C frames that were used on the C15 scramblers and trials bikes and also on the B40 Enduro Star. Those all used a long bolt to hold on the foot pegs that engaged with the frame with a stepped mounting as in the picture above. Even the earlier goose neck framed C15 dirt bikes had a similar footpeg mount set up. The road bikes used a left side splined stud and differently located peg frame mounting points . In my opinion in 1968 when the Victor switched to the road bike staggered friction footpeg mounts they took a step backward.

Peter

" Lastly . I was getting short on time and as soon as I found myself reaching for a screwdriver to pry the oil pipes off I decided to quit before I damage the surfaces. BUT .... Its not coming off.... I removed the nut and washer and kerosene (from the stuck piston) started leaking out . The pipe moves a tiny bit back and forth but will not pull off. and doesnt move up and down either.... Am I missing something? "

Is it possible that the nut has been overtightened?
That may result in the bolt hole being crushed & gripping the bolt.....

Good point 441. I will keep that in mind when I get back to the project this weekend....