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Bye
Last edited by BSArider; 12/02/13 9:38 pm.
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You'll have a leg up if those wheels will polish up. And I don't see any dents in the fuel tank, that's a big plus.
The blue color suggests a Thunderbolt. I see only one carb, but it does appear to be over to one side. Check your engine numbers; some folks liked to fit dual-carb heads on Tbolts (not that it's a big deal, but it's good to know what you have).
Good luck with it!
Mark Z
'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
2007 Triumph Bonneville Black
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Pretty nice find....looks like it will clan up well and some polish will bring it a long way from it's present state. Too bad about that seat cover ripped out right in the middle..looks like the rest is in good condition !
Jon W.
1957 6T Thunderbird 650
1968 T100R Daytona 500
1971 TR6R Tiger 650
1970 BSA A65F 650
1955 Tiger 100 - Project
1971 BSA A65 650 - Project
1972 Norton Commando 750 "Combat"
"Charlie don't surf"
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BSARider - welcome to the forum.
The blue color suggests a Thunderbolt.
Hmmm, It looks pretty original to me, 70' export lightnings were all blue http://www.bsansw.org.au/catalogs/1970/c70-13.jpgAll the thunderbolts from 68+ were black. Looks to be a good buy. You will find plenty of good help and advice on here to get the old gal back on the road again. BTW, IMO you have the best model year A65 ever made. :bigt
Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...
Now lets all have a beer!
68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)
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BSArider,
You didn't mention whether you intend to restore it back to original or make a few changes.
Harvey
1970 A65L (Yep, it's one of the "Y" bikes)
1942 HD45
1942 Boeing N2S-3
1930 Ford A
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Looking good !!! I will be following your progress. Keep the photos coming :bigt
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I've seen the other pictures of all the progress you've made. I'm not sure these bikes ever looked that good even in the showroom! How did you clean up your engine and other alloy parts (brakes, etc)?
Harvey
1970 A65L (Yep, it's one of the "Y" bikes)
1942 HD45
1942 Boeing N2S-3
1930 Ford A
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A big step forward, the "Power Egg" installed back in its frame! ![[Linked Image]](http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s678/J_Gordon_Leishman/DSCN4779_zpsbcf38c34.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s678/J_Gordon_Leishman/DSCN4775_zps072b3a68.jpg) Very pretty... I'm amazed at how much you've been able to do in a day! Don in Nipomo
1956 Zundapp KS601EL
1960 Greeves Scottish/Hawkstone Velorex 560
1963 BSA Gold Star Spitfire
1964 Triumph T20SM
1965 BSA C15T
1966 BSA VE
1968 Bonham Tote Gote
1969 BSA VS
1970 BSA A65L (with a "Y")
1972 Husqvarna 450 WR
1986 Yamaha TT 225
1987 BMW K75C
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What a beaut! I'll bet you're gonna have at least $20-25 dollars invested in this project!  I can relate. I went to this extreme with a '42 Harley 45ci Flathead several years ago. It's well worth the effort but sure can be frustrating at times! Harvey
1970 A65L (Yep, it's one of the "Y" bikes)
1942 HD45
1942 Boeing N2S-3
1930 Ford A
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Reynolds chain is now made badly in China, get a decent replacement before you do too much damage to your sprockets as it rapidly wears out.
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Looking rally shiny, not like mine ugly duckling  .
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I don't know how some of you guys do it. Even if I aspired to it, and had the patience for that level of perfectionism, well I know I'd scrape the crap outa the frame putting engine back in. Or drop the handlebars on the tank. Or, god forbid, drop the whole bike.
Gonna be a beauty, glad you found your way to britbike. I got plenty of rust and grease and sludge trap crud here if you need any.
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Leon bee I agree I would be scared to ride it after all that work.
Like you I would probably damage the tank while fitting it.
Great work BSArider.puts my work to shame.
Looking forward to seeing finished motorcycle.
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I don't know how some of you guys do it. Even if I aspired to it, and had the patience for that level of perfectionism, well I know I'd scrape the crap outa the frame putting engine back in. Or drop the handlebars on the tank. Or, god forbid, drop the whole bike. I know how that feels. Dropped a wrench on a freshly painted chain guard. Instant chip on a flawless job. Geez! BSArider... superb job. Looking loverly.
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This is impressive work to be sure, but have you considered an oil filter to protect this beautiful resto?
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Down to ‘69 T120R now a Tr6R tribute bike
‘70 TR6C “happy in the hills”
‘67 A65LA (now single carb)
‘93 K1100RS heavy metal (should be gone, still here…)
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The "Norton" filter adpter and a HI Flow (read low resistance to flow) filter used in the oil line that returns oil to the tank. No other place to interupt the system for a filter. Works for me and many others. ![[Linked Image]](http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy207/kckpics/Motorcycles/Motorcycle%20Work%20Parts/IMG_0243_1024_768.jpg)
Down to ‘69 T120R now a Tr6R tribute bike
‘70 TR6C “happy in the hills”
‘67 A65LA (now single carb)
‘93 K1100RS heavy metal (should be gone, still here…)
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As it came to fitting the rear wheel, the speedometer drive was needed, the one originally on the bike being long gone. An original Smiths drive was obtained off eBay for $30, which seemed like a bargain if it worked. These drives are notoriously unreliable and they are best dismantled, repaired and properly lubricated before being reused. The gears are removed by carefully prying off the brass "drive" end, and the other end can then be drifted out. Fortunately, the spiral gears for this drive were in excellent shape... There is typically a lot of dried and hard grease and contaminates in behind the large gear. Unless the four rivets are driven out that hold the large gear in place, the bad stuff cannot be cleaned. Without this step it eats up the gear and the case. This a particular reason why the speedo drives give up. Unless this area is checked out, don't expect the drive to live long.
1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 BSA Cyclone Competition Build
1965 BSA Spitfire Hornet Build
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Original gear drive and cable can be reliable if maintained. The restoration is too perfect to use electronics. IMHO.
Ago
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Looks like some really good stuff...thanks for the eye opener. http://www.puca.co/index.html It can all be cleaned. With hindsight, replacing the gears with a Hall-effect sensor driving a retro Smiths electronic speedo would have been the way to go, and I may still do that. http://www.puca.co/images/HF-1.jpg
Jon W.
1957 6T Thunderbird 650
1968 T100R Daytona 500
1971 TR6R Tiger 650
1970 BSA A65F 650
1955 Tiger 100 - Project
1971 BSA A65 650 - Project
1972 Norton Commando 750 "Combat"
"Charlie don't surf"
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...this is a full ground up restoration project to original factory condition... The gauge mount looks to be about vintage '66. '70's didn't have the round indention in the middle. ...With hindsight, replacing the gears with a Hall-effect sensor driving a retro Smiths electronic speedo would have been the way to go, and I may still do that. http://www.puca.co/images/HF-1.jpgThen it wouldn't be original. But it's not that way anyway with the reproduction parts such as the wire harness. It's coming along nicely though. Appreciate all of the pictures of your progress. We all like pictures.
1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 BSA Cyclone Competition Build
1965 BSA Spitfire Hornet Build
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"The gauge mount looks to be about vintage '66. '70's didn't have the round indention in the middle."
Good to know that. It will do for now, but I'll keep my eyes open for the 70 vintage version. SO, what's the indentation for anyway? The indent was a carryover from 1965 LR models that had the fork lock located there. The 65 LR had different triple trees and instrument mounting.
Never underestimate the human ability to elevate stupid to a whole new level!.
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Looks like some one has mounted the Right float bowl the wrong way around
Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...
Now lets all have a beer!
68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)
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Looks like some one has mounted the Right float bowl the wrong way around Yes. Perhaps someone who saw this: http://www.ingfatrygg.se/amal.html(A nice effort to explain the Concentric, but it really went wrong when it came to the illustrations.)
BSA WM20, BSA A10, BSA WD B40, Husqvarna CR 250, Triumph Tiger 800 XC
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Well spotted Pelle, I wonder how many potentially wrecked carbs and none running bikes are out there because someone decided to follow this.
BSArider: you have done a good thing by buying the new carbs.
Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...
Now lets all have a beer!
68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)
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...Sometimes you have to compromise a little between originality and practically... I agree. ...A new (authentic reproduction) wiring harness is hardly an egregious restoration violation. As also with a Hall effect speedo sensor hidden inside the original Smiths housing... From a show judging standpoint, it could well make a difference, if there is another machine of equal quality, but it has original or NOS parts rather than reproduction. The judging critieria is based on how the machine compares to one the day it was delivered to its first owner. Not getting it judged someday?, then no harm, no foul. It'll look nice either way. Glad you went with the original mufflers.
1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 BSA Cyclone Competition Build
1965 BSA Spitfire Hornet Build
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It's looking fantastic and can't wait to see the final pictures. You need to make one slight change - the Speedo should be on the left and the rev counter on the right.
Have fun
Keith.
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What does he charge?
I've got a bare A65 pan that needs everything...
Last edited by Rickman; 11/08/13 11:29 am.
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How about the BSA logo on the back of the seat?
1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 BSA Cyclone Competition Build
1965 BSA Spitfire Hornet Build
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It's come a long way, fantastic looking bike.
When given the choice between two evils I picked the one I haven't tried before
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For BSA's the air cleaner tops are flat rather than stepped as in the images.
1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 BSA Cyclone Competition Build
1965 BSA Spitfire Hornet Build
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For BSA's the air cleaner tops are flat rather than stepped as in the images. If you want to sell the domed covers, I'll happily take them off you, I prefer them and also have the matched domed screw on portion IME/IMO those paper elements on only good for riding in dry weather, as soon as they get wet they restrict air flow permanently. EMGO do some cloth elements for a reasonable price which will replicate the originals, or you can go for the red K+N elements.
Last edited by Allan Gill; 11/11/13 5:21 am.
Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...
Now lets all have a beer!
68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)
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Noticed the wet battery. Really recommend an AGM battery. No vent line for the wet battery to leak acid on the muffler, the rear rim, spokes and nipples. Scorpion AGM Battery $43 including shipping via USPS Priority Mail. Have it in about 3 days. And be sure and use the proper battery charger, a ' battery Tender' or similar.
1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 BSA Cyclone Competition Build
1965 BSA Spitfire Hornet Build
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Well'ard Rocker
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Tell me seriously, is this really happening in "real time"? If you started this work when you started posting, this is all happening over the course of 3 or 4 weeks?
This kind of restoration usually takes the most determined and consistent restorers many MONTHS to do, and a year or two for most of us .... ?
Lannis
Patriotism is supporting your country all of the time and your government when it deserves it.
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Really nice detail work. Really clean shop too. Really envious.
Bill
69 A65T
71 B50T
85 K100RS
54/59 A10SR
69 B44VS
71 A65FS
95 Trident
Too much moderation is bad for you.
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I agree, that's a first class job....you see so many of these old BSA's cobbed up and left derelict for decades that it 's easily forgotten how sharp they looked when they were new.
Here's hoping the start-up and subsequent run-in go as well as the restoration so obviously has to this point.
After all these years of riding my Beezer, the crack & fire of that old A65 still pegs the testosterone level meter right into the red!
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It certianly looks very nice.
Jon W.
1957 6T Thunderbird 650
1968 T100R Daytona 500
1971 TR6R Tiger 650
1970 BSA A65F 650
1955 Tiger 100 - Project
1971 BSA A65 650 - Project
1972 Norton Commando 750 "Combat"
"Charlie don't surf"
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That's right.
However you didn't use any isolating distance pieces between your cylinder head and carbs, so you'll loose your idle in town during summer and have real problem trying to start the hot bike after short brake during ride.
If you didn't use any sealant on the rocker cover gasket, it will start leaking after first serious ride.
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If you didn't use any sealant on the rocker cover gasket, it will start leaking after first serious ride.
That is an issue I had all summer. So, the rocker gasket will not form a seal on its own and I need to use sealant? Or dispense completely with the gasket and just use sealant? Dave
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Perhaps they do . If yours will hold oil inside give us a shout, I would use them in my triple ( even more prone to leaks from this area ). I found Tufnol insulator being sold currently not up to the job. At least my carbs need wider pieces, or I have to operate the bike when outside temperature is below 20 C.
Last edited by Adam M.; 11/18/13 12:58 pm.
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The nuts on the carb studs look to be lock nuts. If so, the spec nut to be used there are nylocs. Also, the side cover transfers are from the '68 model year. I see you ditched the wet battery for a sealed unit. Good on ya for that.
1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 BSA Cyclone Competition Build
1965 BSA Spitfire Hornet Build
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The nuts on the carb studs look to be lock nuts. If so, the spec nut to be used there are nylocs.
Also, the side cover transfers are from the '68 model year.
I see you ditched the wet battery for a sealed unit. Good on ya for that. I see you haven't pointed out the 1968 style chain guard in black BSA Rider: Nice looking bike, If you haven't done so already, I would stick a non metallic pad on to the oil tank. The battery shouldn't move, but should it rock it could short out. only thing to do now is to get out and enjoy it.
Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...
Now lets all have a beer!
68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)
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Can't help you with that, mine clips are changed by p o to big diameter bolts holding covers in place. They have flat rubbers going between bolt head and the cover and another piece of hose goes on the threaded piece of the bolt to prevent over tightening it and cracking the cover.
I also put some black foam around the frame rails where covers interfere with it to prevent both parts rubbing into each other.
But I don't know how it works with clips, perhaps you have to put it on cylindrical part of the clip to prevent it being too loose into bracket hole.
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Would like to see pics of those. I only remember mine having the one big bumper at the bottom on the batt cover where the hole is. Suspect you know that but I don't understand "clips". Memory hazy tho...
Bill
69 A65T
71 B50T
85 K100RS
54/59 A10SR
69 B44VS
71 A65FS
95 Trident
Too much moderation is bad for you.
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In Remembrance
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In Remembrance
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you need 2 buffers # 40-8046 ( see pic) and 2 clips one at the top of each cover ![[Linked Image]](http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o247/goldstarfreddie/100_1002_zpse88fb0ed.jpg)
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When I stripped an original 1970. The left hand buffer ( battery side ) was the larger type. The oil tank side was the smaller type which is the same as used under the seat ( supposedly although I have never seen buffers under the seats) Note: on the bolt on bracket that holds the rear of the left cover, 70' models should have a distance piece between the bracket and the frame tab. Without this the big rubber buffer is too big ( and the small one is too small ) I was cheap and cut a big buffer down to size.
Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...
Now lets all have a beer!
68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)
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Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
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Would like to see pics of those. See item #5 (below) from the spares catalog. They are referred to as "buffers". I have 4 clips with a rubber hose that slides over each one, then they then apparently clip around the frame tubes (somewhere) to prevent the covers from rattling. The idea makes sense but where exactly are they supposed to go? The only place I see as having a clearance issue is at the top of the cover so that perhaps explains where 2 out of the 4 go. I have the big rubber buffers but the replacements I bought from BrittishOnly seem way too big and will not fit behind the cover and the lower frame tube. If someone can make a measurement of the proper thickness of this big buffer/bumper/snubber thing (item #12) then I'd appreciate it. And the foam pad, #3, goes on the cover or the frame? You've built up a very smart looking A65, and I understand your reasons for a "stock" setup. However, those clips you refer to won't stay in place. I have an original one and it's simply not tight enough to stay put during use. I'd ditch the clips and use a piece of black foam pipe insulation . This stuff fits very nicely around the frame and provides good protection to both the cover and the frame. Unless your not going to ride this bike, put the foam pad and clips in a box. Also, cut those oversized rubber bumpers down just enough (about 2/3rds) so that the side panels are snug against the foam insulation when the oddies are pressed in place. Those panels won't budge when the bike is in use.
Last edited by Bola; 11/19/13 8:06 pm.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,157 Likes: 108
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,157 Likes: 108 |
The metal band clips with the rubber around them go on the frame tube just below the seat, so the very top of the side covers ride on them. The fiberglass side covers crack right there in short time. I put multiple layers of thin strips of black tape around the frame tube above and below the clip to keep it in place, as it vibrates out of position.
1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 BSA Cyclone Competition Build
1965 BSA Spitfire Hornet Build
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,241 Likes: 9
Life member
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Life member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,241 Likes: 9 |
Looks just like mine, even the sidepanel decals! ![[Linked Image]](http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c58/dbeezer/Lightning/DSC00511.jpg) Don in Nipomo
1956 Zundapp KS601EL
1960 Greeves Scottish/Hawkstone Velorex 560
1963 BSA Gold Star Spitfire
1964 Triumph T20SM
1965 BSA C15T
1966 BSA VE
1968 Bonham Tote Gote
1969 BSA VS
1970 BSA A65L (with a "Y")
1972 Husqvarna 450 WR
1986 Yamaha TT 225
1987 BMW K75C
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Joined: Jun 2013
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Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
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Very smart looking lightning!!!!
Did the 1970 lightning only come in blue?
Were there differences in colour for UK or US models?
I also have a 1970 lightning but it's a long way away from painting just yet....
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 14,911 Likes: 502
Well'ard Rocker
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Well'ard Rocker
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 14,911 Likes: 502 |
Tell me seriously, is this really happening in "real time"? If you started this work when you started posting, this is all happening over the course of 3 or 4 weeks?
This kind of restoration usually takes the most determined and consistent restorers many MONTHS to do, and a year or two for most of us .... ?
Lannis No, this is not happening in real time. If you had read the earlier postings on this thread then you would seen that this restoration was started in early August. Much of the painting and motor overhaul was contracted out so not all of my labor hours are in this project. This is not my first restoration, but these days I leave the really hard work (e.g., the guts of the motor) to the experts. I have several good craftsman that I rely on for such projects, including master British motorcycle mechanic Jack Geoghegan of Deer Park Cycle in Eldersburg MD and master mechanic, painter, and artist John Owings of Custom Cycle Studio LLC in VA. Without them this project would have taken much longer to happen. Still amazing. That would have taken me years ..... Lannis
Patriotism is supporting your country all of the time and your government when it deserves it.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Mar 2006
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That is just fantastic. Hope you enjoy riding it. You are going to make some new friends every time you park it.
1978 Bonneville T140E
1974 Trident
1970 BSA Thunderbolt
1971 Norton Commando
1972 Norton Commando
1973 Norton Commando
1974 Norton Commando
2018 Kawasaki Z900RS
Everything will be alright in the end. If its not alright, its not the end.
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Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
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Would it not be easier to put the oil in via the timing plug hole, rather than taking the tank and rocker cover off and putting it in the rocker box? The oil will only run to the bottom of the engine anyway? Or am I missing something here?
Dave
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Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,897 Likes: 210 |
Jon W.
1957 6T Thunderbird 650
1968 T100R Daytona 500
1971 TR6R Tiger 650
1970 BSA A65F 650
1955 Tiger 100 - Project
1971 BSA A65 650 - Project
1972 Norton Commando 750 "Combat"
"Charlie don't surf"
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Joined: Aug 2001
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Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Aug 2001
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YESSSS.....it's alive!
You've certainly brought it a loooong way from the sorry state in which you found it.
Here's hoping it rewards you with many miles of "spontaneous grinning" as mine has always done for me.
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Britbike forum member
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As a regular follower of this thread I can say i'm genuinely excited for you.....
Can you post a video of it running? I'd love to hear it start up and settle down to fast idle.
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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 9,043 Likes: 314
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 9,043 Likes: 314 |
Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...
Now lets all have a beer!
68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 52
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 52 |
Been following this rebuild great to seeit runs and rides good
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 172 Likes: 1
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 172 Likes: 1 |
What you say is exactly correct. Another small piece of transport history saved from the dump and that's got to be worth more than just the cost of restoration to you.
Great job.
What's this thread?
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,194 Likes: 30
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,194 Likes: 30 |
You are making a mistake keeping your bike idling after first start. Start riding as soon as possible and give her same much needed revs under pressure .
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Joined: Apr 2005
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Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
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Posts: 2,194 Likes: 30 |
Just after this video ended and the motor was warmed up to the point I could not touch the rocker cover I took the bike on the road, putting load on the motor but not being too aggressive. I've done this break-in process before with Triumphs and Harleys, more than once, so give me some credit.
I give you a lot of credit, repeating how great this rebuild was doesn't improve anything or help you, besides everybody else told you this already. So what I intend to do is tell you little tips which worked for me during the years and helped to make a great ride from my A65, however it isn't even close to yours in looks department . One of this tips was to load the engine before setting the carbs, not after - unfortunately I am dismantling a triple in the moment and got late with this comment.
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or 
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/bJMXsBP5/willeysmall.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](http://s1311.photobucket.com/user/J_Gordon_Leishman/media/DSCN4779_zpsbcf38c34.jpg.html)
![[Linked Image]](http://s1311.photobucket.com/user/J_Gordon_Leishman/media/DSCN4775_zps072b3a68.jpg.html)
.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy207/kckpics/Motorcycles/Motorcycle%20Work%20Parts/IMG_0241_1024_768.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](http://s122.photobucket.com/user/goldstarfreddie/media/100_1002_zpse88fb0ed.jpg.html)
![[Linked Image]](http://s25.photobucket.com/user/dbeezer/media/Lightning/DSC00511.jpg.html)
![[Linked Image]](http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s678/J_Gordon_Leishman/th_BSAfirststart_zps7a61930e.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s678/J_Gordon_Leishman/th_BSAfirstkick_zps07fe5bd3.jpg)
