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Mar 11th, 2023
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...Sometimes you have to compromise a little between originality and practically... I agree. ...A new (authentic reproduction) wiring harness is hardly an egregious restoration violation. As also with a Hall effect speedo sensor hidden inside the original Smiths housing... From a show judging standpoint, it could well make a difference, if there is another machine of equal quality, but it has original or NOS parts rather than reproduction. The judging critieria is based on how the machine compares to one the day it was delivered to its first owner. Not getting it judged someday?, then no harm, no foul. It'll look nice either way. Glad you went with the original mufflers.
1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 BSA Cyclone Competition Build
1965 BSA Spitfire Hornet Build
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 65 Likes: 4
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It's looking fantastic and can't wait to see the final pictures. You need to make one slight change - the Speedo should be on the left and the rev counter on the right.
Have fun
Keith.
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Joined: Feb 2005
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What does he charge?
I've got a bare A65 pan that needs everything...
Last edited by Rickman; 11/08/13 11:29 am.
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How about the BSA logo on the back of the seat?
1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 BSA Cyclone Competition Build
1965 BSA Spitfire Hornet Build
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,710 Likes: 7
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Joined: May 2005
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It's come a long way, fantastic looking bike.
When given the choice between two evils I picked the one I haven't tried before
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Joined: Jan 2006
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For BSA's the air cleaner tops are flat rather than stepped as in the images.
1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 BSA Cyclone Competition Build
1965 BSA Spitfire Hornet Build
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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 9,043 Likes: 314
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
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Posts: 9,043 Likes: 314 |
For BSA's the air cleaner tops are flat rather than stepped as in the images. If you want to sell the domed covers, I'll happily take them off you, I prefer them and also have the matched domed screw on portion IME/IMO those paper elements on only good for riding in dry weather, as soon as they get wet they restrict air flow permanently. EMGO do some cloth elements for a reasonable price which will replicate the originals, or you can go for the red K+N elements.
Last edited by Allan Gill; 11/11/13 5:21 am.
Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...
Now lets all have a beer!
68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 115
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Joined: Jan 2006
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Noticed the wet battery. Really recommend an AGM battery. No vent line for the wet battery to leak acid on the muffler, the rear rim, spokes and nipples. Scorpion AGM Battery $43 including shipping via USPS Priority Mail. Have it in about 3 days. And be sure and use the proper battery charger, a ' battery Tender' or similar.
1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 BSA Cyclone Competition Build
1965 BSA Spitfire Hornet Build
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 14,911 Likes: 502
Well'ard Rocker
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Well'ard Rocker
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 14,911 Likes: 502 |
Tell me seriously, is this really happening in "real time"? If you started this work when you started posting, this is all happening over the course of 3 or 4 weeks?
This kind of restoration usually takes the most determined and consistent restorers many MONTHS to do, and a year or two for most of us .... ?
Lannis
Patriotism is supporting your country all of the time and your government when it deserves it.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,651 Likes: 112
Life member
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Life member
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Really nice detail work. Really clean shop too. Really envious.
Bill
69 A65T
71 B50T
85 K100RS
54/59 A10SR
69 B44VS
71 A65FS
95 Trident
Too much moderation is bad for you.
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Joined: Aug 2001
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I agree, that's a first class job....you see so many of these old BSA's cobbed up and left derelict for decades that it 's easily forgotten how sharp they looked when they were new.
Here's hoping the start-up and subsequent run-in go as well as the restoration so obviously has to this point.
After all these years of riding my Beezer, the crack & fire of that old A65 still pegs the testosterone level meter right into the red!
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It certianly looks very nice.
Jon W.
1957 6T Thunderbird 650
1968 T100R Daytona 500
1971 TR6R Tiger 650
1970 BSA A65F 650
1955 Tiger 100 - Project
1971 BSA A65 650 - Project
1972 Norton Commando 750 "Combat"
"Charlie don't surf"
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That's right.
However you didn't use any isolating distance pieces between your cylinder head and carbs, so you'll loose your idle in town during summer and have real problem trying to start the hot bike after short brake during ride.
If you didn't use any sealant on the rocker cover gasket, it will start leaking after first serious ride.
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Posts: 361
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If you didn't use any sealant on the rocker cover gasket, it will start leaking after first serious ride.
That is an issue I had all summer. So, the rocker gasket will not form a seal on its own and I need to use sealant? Or dispense completely with the gasket and just use sealant? Dave
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Perhaps they do  . If yours will hold oil inside give us a shout, I would use them in my triple ( even more prone to leaks from this area ). I found Tufnol insulator being sold currently not up to the job. At least my carbs need wider pieces, or I have to operate the bike when outside temperature is below 20 C.
Last edited by Adam M.; 11/18/13 12:58 pm.
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The nuts on the carb studs look to be lock nuts. If so, the spec nut to be used there are nylocs. Also, the side cover transfers are from the '68 model year. I see you ditched the wet battery for a sealed unit. Good on ya for that.
1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 BSA Cyclone Competition Build
1965 BSA Spitfire Hornet Build
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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 9,043 Likes: 314
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 9,043 Likes: 314 |
The nuts on the carb studs look to be lock nuts. If so, the spec nut to be used there are nylocs.
Also, the side cover transfers are from the '68 model year.
I see you ditched the wet battery for a sealed unit. Good on ya for that. I see you haven't pointed out the 1968 style chain guard in black  BSA Rider: Nice looking bike, If you haven't done so already, I would stick a non metallic pad on to the oil tank. The battery shouldn't move, but should it rock it could short out. only thing to do now is to get out and enjoy it.
Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...
Now lets all have a beer!
68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,194 Likes: 30
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,194 Likes: 30 |
Can't help you with that, mine clips are changed by p o to big diameter bolts holding covers in place. They have flat rubbers going between bolt head and the cover and another piece of hose goes on the threaded piece of the bolt to prevent over tightening it and cracking the cover.
I also put some black foam around the frame rails where covers interfere with it to prevent both parts rubbing into each other.
But I don't know how it works with clips, perhaps you have to put it on cylindrical part of the clip to prevent it being too loose into bracket hole.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,651 Likes: 112
Life member
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Life member
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Would like to see pics of those. I only remember mine having the one big bumper at the bottom on the batt cover where the hole is. Suspect you know that but I don't understand "clips". Memory hazy tho...
Bill
69 A65T
71 B50T
85 K100RS
54/59 A10SR
69 B44VS
71 A65FS
95 Trident
Too much moderation is bad for you.
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 305 Likes: 1
In Remembrance
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In Remembrance
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 305 Likes: 1 |
you need 2 buffers # 40-8046 ( see pic) and 2 clips one at the top of each cover ![[Linked Image]](http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o247/goldstarfreddie/100_1002_zpse88fb0ed.jpg)
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Joined: May 2013
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When I stripped an original 1970. The left hand buffer ( battery side ) was the larger type. The oil tank side was the smaller type which is the same as used under the seat ( supposedly although I have never seen buffers under the seats) Note: on the bolt on bracket that holds the rear of the left cover, 70' models should have a distance piece between the bracket and the frame tab. Without this the big rubber buffer is too big ( and the small one is too small ) I was cheap and cut a big buffer down to size.
Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...
Now lets all have a beer!
68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 569
Britbike forum member
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Britbike forum member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 569 |
Would like to see pics of those. See item #5 (below) from the spares catalog. They are referred to as "buffers". I have 4 clips with a rubber hose that slides over each one, then they then apparently clip around the frame tubes (somewhere) to prevent the covers from rattling. The idea makes sense but where exactly are they supposed to go? The only place I see as having a clearance issue is at the top of the cover so that perhaps explains where 2 out of the 4 go. I have the big rubber buffers but the replacements I bought from BrittishOnly seem way too big and will not fit behind the cover and the lower frame tube. If someone can make a measurement of the proper thickness of this big buffer/bumper/snubber thing (item #12) then I'd appreciate it. And the foam pad, #3, goes on the cover or the frame? You've built up a very smart looking A65, and I understand your reasons for a "stock" setup. However, those clips you refer to won't stay in place. I have an original one and it's simply not tight enough to stay put during use. I'd ditch the clips and use a piece of black foam pipe insulation . This stuff fits very nicely around the frame and provides good protection to both the cover and the frame. Unless your not going to ride this bike, put the foam pad and clips in a box. Also, cut those oversized rubber bumpers down just enough (about 2/3rds) so that the side panels are snug against the foam insulation when the oddies are pressed in place. Those panels won't budge when the bike is in use.
Last edited by Bola; 11/19/13 8:06 pm.
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The metal band clips with the rubber around them go on the frame tube just below the seat, so the very top of the side covers ride on them. The fiberglass side covers crack right there in short time. I put multiple layers of thin strips of black tape around the frame tube above and below the clip to keep it in place, as it vibrates out of position.
1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
1965 BSA Cyclone Competition Build
1965 BSA Spitfire Hornet Build
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or 
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/bJMXsBP5/willeysmall.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](http://s122.photobucket.com/user/goldstarfreddie/media/100_1002_zpse88fb0ed.jpg.html)
