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Last edited by BSArider; 12/02/13 9:38 pm.
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You'll have a leg up if those wheels will polish up. And I don't see any dents in the fuel tank, that's a big plus.

The blue color suggests a Thunderbolt. I see only one carb, but it does appear to be over to one side. Check your engine numbers; some folks liked to fit dual-carb heads on Tbolts (not that it's a big deal, but it's good to know what you have).

Good luck with it!





Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
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Pretty nice find....looks like it will clan up well and some polish will bring it a long way from it's present state. Too bad about that seat cover ripped out right in the middle..looks like the rest is in good condition !


Jon W.


1957 6T Thunderbird 650
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BSARider - welcome to the forum.

Originally Posted by Mark Z

The blue color suggests a Thunderbolt.


Hmmm, It looks pretty original to me, 70' export lightnings were all blue
http://www.bsansw.org.au/catalogs/1970/c70-13.jpg

All the thunderbolts from 68+ were black.

Looks to be a good buy. You will find plenty of good help and advice on here to get the old gal back on the road again.

BTW, IMO you have the best model year A65 ever made. :bigt


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BSArider,

You didn't mention whether you intend to restore it back to original or make a few changes.

Harvey


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Looking good !!! I will be following your progress. Keep the photos coming :bigt


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I've seen the other pictures of all the progress you've made. I'm not sure these bikes ever looked that good even in the showroom! How did you clean up your engine and other alloy parts (brakes, etc)?

Harvey


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Originally Posted by BSArider
A big step forward, the "Power Egg" installed back in its frame!
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]



Very pretty... I'm amazed at how much you've been able to do in a day!

Don in Nipomo


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What a beaut! I'll bet you're gonna have at least $20-25 dollars invested in this project! grin

I can relate. I went to this extreme with a '42 Harley 45ci Flathead several years ago. It's well worth the effort but sure can be frustrating at times!

Harvey


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Reynolds chain is now made badly in China, get a decent replacement before you do too much damage to your sprockets as it rapidly wears out.

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Looking rally shiny, not like mine ugly duckling smile.

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I don't know how some of you guys do it. Even if I aspired to it, and had the patience for that level of perfectionism, well I know I'd scrape the crap outa the frame putting engine back in. Or drop the handlebars on the tank. Or, god forbid, drop the whole bike.

Gonna be a beauty, glad you found your way to britbike. I got plenty of rust and grease and sludge trap crud here if you need any.

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Leon bee I agree I would be scared to ride it after all that work.
Like you I would probably damage the tank while fitting it.
Great work BSArider.puts my work to shame.
Looking forward to seeing finished motorcycle.

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Originally Posted by leon bee
I don't know how some of you guys do it. Even if I aspired to it, and had the patience for that level of perfectionism, well I know I'd scrape the crap outa the frame putting engine back in. Or drop the handlebars on the tank. Or, god forbid, drop the whole bike.


I know how that feels. Dropped a wrench on a freshly painted chain guard. Instant chip on a flawless job. Geez!

BSArider... superb job. Looking loverly.

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This is impressive work to be sure, but have you considered an oil filter to protect this beautiful resto?

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[Linked Image]


Down to ‘69 T120R now a Tr6R tribute bike
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The "Norton" filter adpter and a HI Flow (read low resistance to flow) filter used in the oil line that returns oil to the tank. No other place to interupt the system for a filter. Works for me and many others.

[Linked Image]


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Originally Posted by BSArider
As it came to fitting the rear wheel, the speedometer drive was needed, the one originally on the bike being long gone. An original Smiths drive was obtained off eBay for $30, which seemed like a bargain if it worked. These drives are notoriously unreliable and they are best dismantled, repaired and properly lubricated before being reused. The gears are removed by carefully prying off the brass "drive" end, and the other end can then be drifted out. Fortunately, the spiral gears for this drive were in excellent shape...

There is typically a lot of dried and hard grease and contaminates in behind the large gear. Unless the four rivets are driven out that hold the large gear in place, the bad stuff cannot be cleaned. Without this step it eats up the gear and the case. This a particular reason why the speedo drives give up. Unless this area is checked out, don't expect the drive to live long.


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Original gear drive and cable can be reliable if maintained. The restoration is too perfect to use electronics. IMHO.



Ago

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Looks like some really good stuff...thanks for the eye opener.

http://www.puca.co/index.html



Originally Posted by BSArider
It can all be cleaned. With hindsight, replacing the gears with a Hall-effect sensor driving a retro Smiths electronic speedo would have been the way to go, and I may still do that. http://www.puca.co/images/HF-1.jpg


Jon W.


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Originally Posted by BSArider
...this is a full ground up restoration project to original factory condition...

The gauge mount looks to be about vintage '66. '70's didn't have the round indention in the middle.

Originally Posted by BSArider
...With hindsight, replacing the gears with a Hall-effect sensor driving a retro Smiths electronic speedo would have been the way to go, and I may still do that. http://www.puca.co/images/HF-1.jpg

Then it wouldn't be original. But it's not that way anyway with the reproduction parts such as the wire harness. It's coming along nicely though. Appreciate all of the pictures of your progress. We all like pictures.


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Originally Posted by BSArider
"The gauge mount looks to be about vintage '66. '70's didn't have the round indention in the middle."

Good to know that. It will do for now, but I'll keep my eyes open for the 70 vintage version. SO, what's the indentation for anyway?


The indent was a carryover from 1965 LR models that had the fork lock located there. The 65 LR had different triple trees and instrument mounting.


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Looks like some one has mounted the Right float bowl the wrong way around


Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...

Now lets all have a beer!

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Originally Posted by Allan Gill
Looks like some one has mounted the Right float bowl the wrong way around

Yes. Perhaps someone who saw this:
http://www.ingfatrygg.se/amal.html
(A nice effort to explain the Concentric, but it really went wrong when it came to the illustrations.)


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Well spotted Pelle, I wonder how many potentially wrecked carbs and none running bikes are out there because someone decided to follow this.

BSArider: you have done a good thing by buying the new carbs.


Life is stressful enough without getting upset over the little things...

Now lets all have a beer!

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (now rebuilt)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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