Britbike forum Forums British Motorcycle specific Brands Bsa bulletin board Just acquired a '71 A65 (restoration project)

Ok folks, this is a start to restoring kurt fisher's thread. It's a little bit raw, I'll dress it up if it becomes necessary.
Hope you like it, feel free to post away per the original thread.

Just acquired a '71 A65 (pages 1 to 8)

Thank you!

I really appreciate it, Two Alpha and everyone else involved. You flatter me that it's a restoration, more like a fix-up and get running. Of course, it's never that simple. Some things get fixed to restoration standards, like the frame welding repairs and reinforcing.

As a point of reference, here's the bike as first seen on Cape Cod June 2011:



To pick up where we left off the other day ...

Correct BSA chain guard acquired on eBay, with thanks to Jon for the pics comparing the Triumph and BSA items side-by-side:




Rear brake pedal stop fabricated and adjusted:




Mufflers bolted up and attached to head pipes with 1&3/4" clamps"







Now to move on to the wiring, I've put it off for too long. (BTW, I sold the so-called "negative ground" LED tail lamp to a forum member for his metric project.)

FYI, all my pics of this project are in a Flickr set at http://flic.kr/s/aHsjDNTtqB

I have really enjoyed watching your progress. I got a 72 A65 about a month ago. It was in a bit better shape than yours but still needed some work. I am in the process of tearing down and cleaning everything, replacing fork seals, rebuilding carbs etc...

I was wondering if you have re-wired the bike yet? If so could you pm me some pictures of where the wiring harness is placed. I am having a heck of a time getting the right placement. I took the original harness (came with the bike) and tested everything and re-wrapped it but have no clue how to run it again. Also, did you install a electronic ignition or did you stick with the original points?

I'm excited to see how yours come out. I will post some pictures of mine on this forum shortly.

Thanks, Joey, I have fans!

Seriously, if my experiences can help anyone, I'm glad. Sounds like you're having fun with it already. Looking forward to your pics.

I have not made up the wire harness yet. I think of it more as wiring the components rather than making a harness. The bike came with some wretched scraps of the original wiring, so I am replacing everything, all wires, all connectors. (Not using britishwiring.com, sorry, I just order generic supplies from delcity.com)

All that remains of the original wiring:


Do you know the GABMA resource page?
http://www.gabma.us/page2.htm
Scroll down and check out Electrical Sys articles -- really great info.

Also, this britbike forum has convinced me of the need for "single point ground" or "SPG" -- in other words, don't rely on the frame to connect your grounds, instead, run so called "ground" wires to a "single point ground" to complete the circuit.

Back to your questions, I'm just going to run the wires where they make sense and don't rub anything and don't get pinched by the tank. I use lots of split loom to protect them.

I'm going to stay with points ignition on the BSA. One of my Triumphs has points, one has a Boyer. Gotta say, I prefer the points, because, being old, I like working on things I understand, if only slightly, and can adjust and troubleshoot myself.

Recommended reading:
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=428872&nt=4&page=1

I do run the Tympanium regulator/rectifier on all three Brit bikes, replacing the original rectifier and Zener. So in some cases, I do prefer a black box.

Hope that helps. No doubt others have views and experience they can contribute to what you're doing. Does anyone else have a tank off an OIF BSA to show where the wires are run?

Great that will help me when I get to that part of the build. I just finished rebuilding the forks and thought I had tightened the bottom allen screw enough but as soon as I put in fluid the right side started leaking. When I tried to tighten it the inside nut just spun inside the fork tube.
All this to say HOW THE HECK DO YOU KEEP THE INSIDE NUT FROM SPINNING SO THE ALLEN SCREW CAN BE TIGHTENED!?!?!?!?!?

As you can tell I am a little frustrated.

Any help/pictures would be amazing.

Thanks

An air impact ratchet? Maybe???

I always found that a bit of upward pressure on the bottom of the outer member kept the rod from turning. They do make a tool to hold things in place, but I've never needed it.

Indeed, I use an air impact.

Not that I'm recommending this technique to anyone or suggesting that it's a good way or the right way to do it. Let the rebukes and abuse begin!

Usually, with the stanchions (inner fork tubes) assembled on the bike and pinched into the triple clamps, I position the o-ring sealing washer thing on the bottom of the damper rod with a bit of grease. Then, working quickly, I insert the socket head (Allen head) screw (with the hex bit already inserted into the head of the screw) into the bottom of the lower leg (slider), pour the proper amount of fork oil into the slider, slide the slider onto the tube, screw in the socket head screw by hand, attach the air impact wrench to the bit, and then give the trigger on the air impact a burst.

If the forks are off the the bike, I still use the air impact, you just have to devise a way to keep the lower legs from rotating when you apply the air impact.

Use a 13/16" socket (3/8" drive) with a long extension and pass it down the stanchion from the top. The socket engages on the hex at the top of the damper tube and you tighten the Allen screw against that.
In terms of the Dowty seal at the bottom of the forks (through which the Allen screw goes) my way of locating the seal is to take the slider when off the bike, pass through it from the bottom a length of stiff wire (i use a straigthened out wire coat hanger)--long enough so that the wire sticks out at the top of the slider and then thread the seal down the wire. Jiggle the wire around a little and the seal fits nicely in the recess at the bottom of the slider.Then carefully remove the wire.
Then gently ease the slider up over the stanchion and engage the Allen screw in the end of the damper tube.
Did a couple this way on my 1973 TR5T only yesterday.
Works for me!
HTH

Sounds good -- and highly preferable!

Thank you all for the suggestions. I will give the socket with the extensions on it a go. If it doesn't work I will give the air impact a go.

So after pulling the lowers off I noticed that something didn't look right with the fork tubes. Pulled the tripple tree apart and low and behold both fork tubes are bent!
Got to love not knowing anything about the past of a 41 year old motorcycle.

So new fork tubes go on the list of things to do. I simultaneously love and hate my A65.

Kurt how is yours coming along?

Always a surprise around the next corner, eh what, Joey? I've had my share

There's another recent thread on the forum about fork tubes, about EMGO tubes and what to watch out for, look around and it should pop up -- can't look for it right now myself.

As to my A65, I've been putting off wiring up the electrics, and lo, and behold, another thread ...

http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=488350&page=1

... brought up some useful components to use, like a fuse panel, and relays with fuses built in, so those parts are on the way to me now. Another demonstration that procrastination pays dividends ...

Suprises are what make it interesting. My 71 Lightning came with what was described as a new wiring harness. What I found in the harness consisted of soldered together pieces of new wire. Like they only sell wire in 6 inch lengths.

Found this *fabulous* taillamp at the Auburn meet Sunday, a beauty, eh what?



Figure I'll mount it here maybe ...



... or better yet, here ...



... after a bit of sheet metal work ...

Hella fuse panel mounted, and Tympanium secured inside the left side cover. The right coil was contacting the rear fender, so I lifted it up about 1/4", hope the seat clears.





Ray -- I sealed it up with some silicone sealant.

Got me a UK tank for the Beezah [smilee]

Don't forget the support bracket that goes underneath in the front of the tank. Without it, these tanks were quite prone to cracking.

Dave

Thanks, Dave, I recall the discussions of the bracket and read the recent posts about the 5/16-24 bolts. In fact, I need to collect all of the mounting hardware.

Took the UK tank to Don Hutchinson to have him check it out.



Got it back 10 days later, media blasted, pin holes fixed, filler neck replaced, pressure tested: all good. (Thanks, Don!)







Bit of Bondo next.

Filled the dings, sanded all over.



Next step, primer.

Today I re-started the BSA after 18 months. (Recall that after the first start up I discovered the broken frame member.) So it's finally back together, wiring done, remote filter installed in the return line, pretty much all together. I primed the oil lines, pumped some oil into the rocker feed, squirted some oil onto the rings, poured in fresh fuel, tickled, and two kicks later, it was running well, with an immediate, strong oil return to the tank. These mufflers are very quiet, you can really hear the exhaust leaking at the head pipe connection. The motor settled down to ca. 600rpm idle, with good throttle response. I restarted a few times, then put it back on the lift to drain the start-up oil, change the filter, and clean the sump screen.





Next:
Fresh oil.
Bolt the tank on. (This one (thanks, Alex) or the "Home" tank.)
Oil tank breather hose.
Finish grafting the Britax taillamp onto the fender.
Figure out a front fender.
Fix and install the seat.
Needs a speedo cable.
Shorter throttle cables.
Rear view mirrors.
Ride.
Check over, tighten up.
Get state inspection.
Ride more.

Lookin' good, Kurt! :bigt
Since you have a painted rear fender you can get something for the front at a reasonable price.
With the Mics on mine, I make my own throttle cables. I start with cables sold for go-carts. These come with only the fitting at the throttle end and can be cut to size. Solder on the little barrel at the carb end, and you"re good to go.
There's a guy in Canada who sells seat covers on eBay for $50. Good quality cover, at least the '71 is easy to install.

That makes me sad that I sold my OIF Beezer..... I swear I'll never sell anything else ..... Revised " I pray I'll never have to sell anything else"

Thanks, guys! Look close enough and you will see some Triumph parts that have snuck in here and there.

David, thanks for the encouragement, I used to solder up my own cables, so I'm thinking I'll shorten these at the carb end, though it would be nice to have some new barrel ends on hand before I go hacking at them. For the seat cover, I like the "quilted" design used on the '72 BSA, BCS has them at a reasonable price. For a front fender, I'm looking at Glas from the Past http://www.gftpstore.com/Other-Parts_c10.htm Their Norton fender looks like it might work well http://www.gftpstore.com/Norton-Front-fender-NORFDRA-NORFDRA.htm

Wade, yes, keep that vow of keeping. I've said it before of my '52 Triumph, T100 25998, where are you now?

A view of the wiring: I went with in-line fuses rather than the fuse block, the battery is a SLA like the one in my Verizon FIOS box. Might put in relays later.



Oil filter as supplied by DMadigan, I like it a lot. To change the element, I unbolt the bracket mount and tip it out over a drain pan, quick and easy, uses a Hi-Flo HF-116 element.