Britbike forum Forums British Motorcycle specific Brands Bsa bulletin board Hornet, Wasp, Spitfire Hornet, Cyclone (Restored)

Absolute amazing results. Thank you for sharing that. I've used sand and soda. The bits came out clean but still mottled (bad description?) 80 grit glass is what I'll try next time.

Thanks again, Gordon

I find methylenechloride based paint stripper removed powder coat even quicker than it does "normal" (wet) paint. its otherwise a pain to remove.

I had some new harris (powder coated) foot pegs, I started off using the powder as a base for the dove grey and primer but it didn't like the etch prime much, so removed it with the m.c. stripper and it came off almost in one piece.

I usually burn the powder coat with the ac torch, then it comes off in the blast cabinet.

Certainly cheaper that way, and fewer problems with trying to dispose of the remains.

I let my powder coater handle the whole job. She also uses a primer coat prior to top coat.

Third batch of parts picked up from the powder coat shop for the '65 Spitfire Hornet restoration.

Sharp looking!

Ian
SoCal

'65 Spitfire Hornet is coming along nicely.

The '65 Spitfire Hornet tank that I brought back from the dead. See earlier images. Now ready for base coat/clear coat primer/sealer then paint and clear.

Progression of 1965 Spitfire Hornet Restoration
Have to find a new painter. My go to guy, for 23 years, retired.

Tank looks new already.

A lot of work went to it to bring it back from the dead. The '64/'65 tank is a bit difficult to source these days, so I had to resurrect a tank that was in sad condition.

All is well now.

Just got my tank. Rougher than expected. I was advised to gouge the spyder cracks then cover the whole tank with epoxy resin. What's your idea? Resin or just glazing compound before gel-coat?

Need more information. Is it an original tank, or something new with no gelcoat?

How a bout an image or two, so I know what you are working with.

Sorry took me a while to learn how to post pictures. I hope this works.

Ok, good. Original tank. Good that the recessed side areas are still there for the original style transfer. Some tanks I've had to rebuild those with micro.

All those gelcoat stress cracks should be ground out deep enough until the crack no longer shows, using an 1/8" round dremel cutter bit. Some will end up deeper than others Make sure you get the full length of the crack, as any amount left over, even the tinyest spot, will begin a new one.

Blow out the grooves and wash them with acetone or lacquer thinner. I use acetone as it evaporates very quickly.

Fill with glazing putty or micro. I've had good success with glazing putty, but micro works the best. It's just more work. It'll take several applications with sanding in between. I do it is small areas at a time since glazing putty fires off quickly, so only a small amount is mixed at a time and spread with a small soft flexible applicator.

When all the stress cracks are taken care of, then go after the gelcoat pin holes. There won't look like there are very many until the first coat of primer is applied, then there will be dozens that show up. They have to filled and sanded and the paint just builds up around the edge of them and doesn't fill the hole nor bridge over it.

All said and done, the tank will look like this before primer. (I do the bottom of the tank same as the top).

Thanks for the help. I was a little afraid to go after the cracks with a Dremel. I may need to build up the right-hand upper decal recession. I'll post the results.

This is how I do it.

Posting for Ron Saunders on the West Coast. He is currently working on a recent rescue of a 1967 West Coast Hornet. Bringing it back to original condition.

Wow, this is a really good thread. How did I miss it all this time?

Is this common with the rear loop on these frames? or is this a previous owner modification?

It is a previous owners modification. Why they did it, I do not know.

Time to start all the bikes here in Arkansas. Having some issues with advancing physical decrepitude, so I chose the ET ignition 67 Hornet first. Let all the oil out the bottom, poured it back in the top. Coughed on the first kick, started and running clean at the third.

Yes, age makes a difference, so I cheat by using the starter rollers.

I'm looking for any info on this early (1964?) 500 twin engine. The numbers are A50B 053. I know that the engine serial numbers started with 101 for the Royal Stars and Cyclones. I'm thinking this engine could be a special imported to the U.S. for a replacement or perhaps for a special build for a specific customer by a dealer, distributor or tuner. Did BSA use special numbers for replacement engines? It is currently in a 1968 Royal Star frame purposely built for flat track racing. Any ideas? Thank you in advance.