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Anne, as your running the needle roller timing side conversion... where will you use the oil feed take off? SRM/Devimead used the front dowel as the feed.

Hi

FYI The early Devimead motors were just a copper tube with a couple of banjo bolts, one end into the pressure switch port and the other into the alloy bush welded onto the timing cover to carry the quill seal.
A number of others used a similar manner then doing their own conversions to cut down in the machining work.

bye-o

John

a hose.
a oil line (hose) will run from the prv, modified of course, to the oil filter (norton style) and the to an ugly fat lump of alu welded to the outer timingsidecover to carry the oil-crankshaft seal. see my other pictures for details.

this time I'll try the down size the ugly lump so all will fit behind the timing side cover.

regards A

did some work today on the new engine in a well equipped workshop.
-bolted the outer timing side cover to the mill-bed
-used the innertiming side cover the line up spindle and main bearing centerline
-drill 28 mm made the required hole
-fitted inner timing side with needle roller bearing
-finished seal holder ready to be welded on the outer timing side cover

crankshaft still to be modified, it is a used item and today appeared to be bent, have to check that one again or use my own crankshaft (from my still running engine, modified in '82)

axial setup will remain more or less the same, with different parts and material selection.
oilpump still to choose.

[img:left]http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/lemans41/media/DSCF2400_zps98c8fc9e.jpg.html[/img]

[img]http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/lemans41/media/DSCF2401_zps4a2c3d22.jpg.html[/img]

regards Anne

looks good Anne.

I admire your skills :bigt

Hi

Or machine the seal carrier to size after welding to allow any distortion.
On one engine, I used aero-quip hose and fittings to pipe in the oil supply, this gave a bit of flexibility and looked quite tidy.

John

the SRM-camshaft arrived today.
looks very good and should go with the 90 drg crank

Looking good, Anne. :bigt

after a delay of more than a year things are picking up again.

dismantled my old engine as I need the rods for my new engine.
old bottom end has not been apart in 25 years!.

general condition: used, sludge trap completely filled, needle roller bearing in good condition, axial bearing in good condition.

used the stb BSA axial setup, however made a bronze bush to size as the main bearing was removed. will post some pictures.

Question: how to remove the sludge trap tube?.
anybody

regards Anne

I've just removed one by using a 14 mm tap, just putting a couple of turns on the sludge trap and working it out using the tap as a puller. Very basic, but it worked.
I went to do the same on the second crank I have and the tap isn't a large enough diameter!
I'm going to make a dowel with a spring loaded peg to pick up the oil delivery hole. Bit like the system used on the quick adjustable alloy crutches and walking sticks you get.

Hope that helps.
Cheers John

promised to post pictures of the timing side main bearing conversion of the old engine.

needle roller is SKF "NKI 35/20 TN"
axial bearing is a modified std BSA, I made a bronze ring which is partly inserted in the main bearing bore. the axial setup has worked very well.

converted sometime in 1982~1983, all work done in the royal navy workshop.
hasn't been dismantled since, used regularly for the last 8 years,
total mileage after conversion, my best guess is 12~17.000 km


pictures tell the story.

new crank is in, collected yesterday from Nourish
marvelous piece of work, pictures tell the story

[img]http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/l...1311_zpsr1ghkivh.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2[/img]

[img]http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/l...1312_zps7snuktug.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1[/img]



regards Anne

Piece of art, Anne.
PS: you do not read my newspaper. Just joking mate.

Shame to hide in a set of crankcases

What is the coating on the rod journals.

Hi Anne

Nice piece of kit, well worth the wait.

Nice work Anne, I like your end fed setup, does the thrust face allow you to run with some end float?

indeed well worth the wait, more than well worth the wait. of course it took some time but when the piece of work in on your dinner table and you start imagining the amount of work to make this out of a solid lump with all sizes to spec, all centerlines lined up, it didn't take that long.

axial bearing setup is std BSA, in one of the previous post you could see my solution used 25 years ago. this worked well and will be used again in slightly modified form. the axial bearing setup BSA used for the A65 is a normal and proper method and I've never had any issues.

of course the axial bearing can be changed but that doesn't mean it will be improved.

coating on the rod journals is protective tape

regards A

progress, holidays over, all the best 2016 wishes to all of you, drive safely.

finished the axial setup today
had the previous engine a genuine bronze axial bearing, this one will have to do with plain alu, with some alterations.

old engine; needle roller not supported on the outside, axial bearing press-fitted into the old main bearing hole. see previous posts
new engine; needle roller supported on the outside by a 4mm ridge, alu axial bearing plate loosely fitted.

as the old timing side bush + bronze insert is 4mm thick, I made the alu bearing out of a 4mm strip. It lies slightly raised above the timing side main casing material.

end float, negligable but all turns freely. casings will expand more, so no problem. actually my ducati has an negative end-float when cold.

regards A

I've got to say I really liked your original setup with the modified bush.

I had ordered anRNA4907 bearing which arrived today, the OD is bigger than yours but the 20mm width is the same. For the oil groove to align with original I'm thinking of making a 4mm ring to sit on the inner side of the crank, then maybe a thrust washer inboard of that.



How will you hold your aluminium plate in place?

Alan, with a needle roller bearing you do not want the oil spilling out of the oil groove into the bearing, that will be robbing oil pressure from the big ends.
Ideally the oilway leading to the groove should be plugged, the needle roller bearing will get plenty lubrication by splash

I don't want to Hijack Anne's thread here. However the crank is end fed so no pressure being lost, and there is a bleed to feed this bearing drilled in the crank case. But thanks for your interest.

well, not at all. as you can see in picture 3 in post #633717, the BSA-shop machined a recess into the timingside casing. probably to standard dimensions for the crank and to provide a reasonable flat surface to press the main bearing bush to. the depth of this recess is small, prob less than 1~1,5mm (1/16 inch) but enough to prevent the alu-plate from sliding forward and backward. the ends of the recess are round and the alu-plate is filled to fit preceisly. so the axial bearing fits snugly, free to move a little bit but not much.

regards A

Dutch Approach

as the new set of cases came without nuts and bolts and the set from the old engine is rather knackered, new ones had to be sourced.

searching the internet, for instance: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X5%2F16+x+26+x+2.TRS0&_nkw=5%2F16+x+26+x+2&_sacat=0

revealed some ridiculous pricing; 5/16 x 26TPI x 2,5"@ 1,20GBP each. P&P to be added.

local machineshop has the correct dies for 4 GBP and M8 (yes metric) has the correct shaft diameter.

improvement possible, I'll make a new set out of M8 allen-bolts

regards A

Not only cheaper I think but you will also be sure you have the correct steel quality.

Looking good, Anne.

started today with axial end float/play
straightforward task: mount crankshaft in cases, measure end-float. insert spacer acc to calculation. measure end-float. finished.

still there is some voodoo involved. first measurement 0,67mm. inserted 0,65mm spacers. second measurement 0,07mm end float. hmm somewhere found another 0,05mm play. added an extra 0,05mm spacer. third measurement 0,07mm float. hmmmm, cases are made of putty. added more spacers and am satisfied at 0,04mm with the thought of putting the cases together with ducati superbond liquid gasket.

reg A