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Hi everyone...

The rim arrived and its to pait it...

Now i need help with the ignition switch.
My BSA C15 from 1959 as switch for ignition and not a key stile...

Does anybody know where i can find it??

I have the grey button in great shape, only need the electrical part, but if it is complete never mind...

Best regards
Sérgio Crespo

Hi there...

Need help to understand what is written in the black circles.
And what is the Points it referes in the yelow circle?
Side points??
Dont have...



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Best regards

Black circle 1: Two white wires are connected to the -terminal of the coil. Single black/white wire is connected to the +terminal of the coil.

Black circle 2: Brown/green from the harness is connected to the tail light in the tail lamp. White wire from the harness is connected to the white wire from the stop switch cable. Brown wire from the stop switch cable is connected to the brake light.

This appears a little different from the harness I have where the stop light switch cable is a permanent part of the main harness and there is a sub-harness to run from under the seat to the tail lamp.

Yellow circle: Black/white should be to the points (contact breaker) in the distributor.

Maybe this wiring diagram will help:

Thanks a lot...
Ill give a try when i get home...

Cheers...

Hi everyone...

Im in the last lap to end my bike, but the most dificult i think...
Maybe if you help me it maybe more easy...

As i sayed before im turning my bike from 6v to 12v...

The alternator has been repaired and i have a ignition coil of 12v new and now i need to know what i need to buy more to complete this project...

Can someone please help me??

Best regards
Sérgio Crespo

You need 12V bulbs, a voltage regulator eg a zener diode or better to replace your current rectifier with a modern combined voltage regulator/rectifier such as a Podtronics. Your horn can stay 6v, it just gets louder .
The ignition condenser does not need changing or any of the switches but the wiring will need modifying mainly at the lighting switch and this is covered in Rupert Ratios book on Unit Singles.

And a 12V battery.

Hi...

Thanks for reply...
I dont have the book, but is it complicated to modify the wiring??

Regards...

Hi...

Found this info and im goin to do it today or tomorrow...

http://www.classicmotorcycles.org.uk/c15/c15_12v_conversion.htm

Hope its correct and the same in the book...

Dont understand what cable is in here "... to connect your two alternator wires to the outer connections on the rectifier using 14/0.30mm automotive cable..."

Do some one know what it means??

Regards

Hi everyone...

The Rupert Ratio arrived today and now i have a question...
It seams that i need many snap connectors, but...
What is a snap connector?
Can someone give me a link to a image or a image so i can see what it is??

And, is it good idea to put a fuse?
Where is the best places?
What power, in A?

Best regards
Sérgio Crespo

Connectors

http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000...nnectors_Bullet/47mm_Classic_Style_Lucas

Yes you need a fuse, a 17 amp (marked 35A just to confuse) one was used in 12V sytems originally but if you use a modern fuse then 15A or 20A will work. Fit it on the live wire from the battery.

Hi...

Thanks...

Now, up in this page i posted a picture (hand writting) sent from where i buyed (TMS) the wiring harness and on the right we see Points.
But on the Rupert Ration 12v convertion dont says Points and nothing related.
But i found a same picture in web and were it says Contact Breaker near of Ignition Coil also says condenser...
The condenser it refers its the one on distributor, the Points??
Right??

Best regards
Sérgio Crespo

I am guessing what your question is so here goes.

You are changing from 6V to 12v, there is no need to change the condenser or the points, both the points and condenser are inside the distributor. The single wire going to the distributor is connected inside the distributor to both the points and contact breaker and none of the internal wiring inside the distributor changes going from 6v to 12V so do not change anything inside the distributor.

Ok...

But on the picture up in this page says on the right "POINTS".
On Rupert Ratio book dont refers no conection to Points, so i imagine that the same wire that goes on the main wiring harness for 6V is the same without any modification for 12V...

On my distributor the condenser stays out of the distributer, but bolted on it...

On Rupert Ratio book dont refers no conection to Points, so i imagine that the same wire that goes on the main wiring harness for 6V is the same without any modification for 12V...

Yes Looking at Ruperts 12 V conversion he has labeled the distributor points but the diagram shows points and a condenser in symbol form.


On my distributor the condenser stays out of the distributer, but bolted on it...

Some previous owner has modified it when he could not get the correct replacement, see page 174 in Rupert for what it looks like under the cover.

Hi...

Your right, the condenser is inside...

I dont know if can do this convertion...
The book says that the 6v wiring will need to be all replaced and i have a brand new wiring buyed from TMS.
This means that the wiring that i buyed is no good for 12v?
It needs some changes, but....

I already have the Zener diode, 12v ignition coil and waiting for regulator...
I think im not forgeting nothing...
Will buy also 2 condensers...

Best regards
Sérgio Crespo

You don't have to make many changes to the wiring to use a 12V system. The change down at the alternator is the only necessary change I can think of.

You can simplify the wiring and switching, when you change to 12V but that does not mean throwing away the loom.

Hi, thanks for reply...

Dont know if you have Ruperts Ratio book, but the wirings on light switch and ignition switch are bit diferent for 6v to 12v...

And need to wire the Zener diode...

If you dont have i can put images here that i found on web that are the same as in the refered book...

The diagram as TMS sent me to help...



Also sent by TMS...


The 6V, same as in the book...


The 12V, same as the book...

On 12V, the 3rd alternator wire circuit, through the switches, becomes redundant, but it is no longer connected to the alternator so that doesn't matter. If you are starting out with a new loom, you will not be using the wires and switch terminals that are only for 6V alternator coil switching.

The Zener is simply connected between rectifier live and earth.

Sorry, but im not understanding very well what do you mean here, where i quoted you...

The light and ignition switchs dont work on 12v??

Look at the diagrams you posted. Look where the GY wire goes on the 6V diagram. The ignition switch (wrongly labelled "ignition coil" on the 6V diagram), connects it to the lighting switch, via the B wire. The lighting switch connects that to the rectifier, via the GB wire, to give full alternator power only when the headlight is on.

On 12V, the alternator gives full power all the time. The Zener prevents overcharging of the battery, especially when the lights are not on.

I think you have to get an understanding of the circuits to be successful in this.

The loom i have as the light and ignition sockets and i was going to change the wires positions on it so it will be the same as the 12v diagram, but the 6v diagram uses more wires on sockets as the 12v one...


I dont understand as an expert but i want to give a try...
I dont know anyone that can help me with this in my area, only car electritians and only new cars and they have to much work, so they cant help me for next weeks...

The six volt system has extra wires for switching in some of the alternator coils.

Wire it as the 12 volt diagram. There aren't many differences. Just don't use the wires in the 6V diagram that are not in the 12V diagram. Ignore them.

Oh...

That was my doubt, what ill i do to the extra wires...
lol

Another question...
As i dont have the 12v battery for my BSA, for now, i dont know the correct one to fit in my BSA C15 original battery shelf ...
Can i use a 12v battery from a car just to test the lights, not to put the bike running the motor??
Or its to much??

I have 2, 12v 44Ah and 12v 55Ah...

How can i test if my Zener diode is working well??