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#39737 06/12/08 4:13 pm
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I was draining all one and a half liters of oil out of my sump last night...yeah, it's been sitting for a while...and when I pulled the sump plate off, I unfortunately ripped the gasket. I do eventually plan on adding a sump plate with a drain plug, but for now, I need to make a new gasket for the stock plate. I looked around for gasket materials, and all I have is 1/8" cork and rubber mixed gasket paper. On the packaging, it says it's good for oil and gas, but it's ideal application if for sealing airboxes for airfilters. Think it would be ok to use for a temporary gasket?


Jer

http://www.caferacer.ca

1968 BSA Lightning Cafe
1968 BSA Thunderbolt
1969 BSA Royal Star
1972 BSA Thunderbolt
BSA on eBay
#39738 06/12/08 4:51 pm
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This board always amazes me.
I have been considering the EXACT same problem.
I am worried about my temporary 1/8 rubber and cork gasket on my stock sump plate.
There are two worries, the crankcase is under pressure. Not much pressure however.
The cork gasket is too thick and will probably lend itself to overtightening and bending of the gasket flange.

This decides it, I'm changing back to a paper gasket tonight.
Common sense prevails.

CTC sells a gasket material asst. in 8x10" sheets for about 8 bucks.

This includes blue gasket material I should have used instead of the cork rubber.

HTH
Gunk


"he who laughs fast, laughs first"~Gunk
#39739 06/12/08 4:53 pm
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For the reason stated by Gunk, I think you're better off using a cereal box.


A smattering:
'53 Gold Flash
'67 Royal Star
'71 Rickman Metisse
'40 Silver Star
'37 Rudge Special
sixtyseventy Lightboltrocket road racer...and many more.
#39740 06/12/08 5:39 pm
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Any particular brand of cereal? smile )

I'll do the same as Gunk, and pick myself up a fresh pack of gasket materials.


Jer

http://www.caferacer.ca

1968 BSA Lightning Cafe
1968 BSA Thunderbolt
1969 BSA Royal Star
1972 BSA Thunderbolt
#39741 06/12/08 10:34 pm
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I presume we are talking about neoprene cork sheeting .
Little granuals of cork bonded together with neoprene rubber.
If this be the case they will be fine for your sump filter.
Some prestige cars actually use neoprene cork on their sumps & rocker covers. Lasts for years, never breaks, toss it in some very hot soapy water to clean the crud off & expand the cork again then shot it back from where ever it came from.

The lesser marques use plain cork which is rarely reuseable but cost 20% of the price of the neoprene cork.

So the material will be fine.
As for warpage, your sump is not a load bearing application ( well if it is your are in big trouble ) so like carby flanges & primary covers it needs only to be tightened enough to make a seal .
If you find yours are warped then the solution is to cut 2" off the end of all your spanners or use a smaller gorilla to tighten them up. laughing


Bike Beesa
Trevor
#39742 06/13/08 1:10 am
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I did as Gunk was going to do tonight...I bought the four pack of gasket making material and made one out of the blue paper. The price has gone up to $11 from $8, but had a good evening making it outside in the sun, none the less.

After installing the new sump gasket and topping up the oil, I fired the Thunderbolt up. I was impressed, considering it has sat for 9 months with stale gas, and it fired up on the third kick. Now for a little shake down run, and get her on the road for the season.


Jer

http://www.caferacer.ca

1968 BSA Lightning Cafe
1968 BSA Thunderbolt
1969 BSA Royal Star
1972 BSA Thunderbolt
#39743 06/13/08 1:51 am
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Gorilla!?
We don't have gorillas in Canada.
You're thinking of Harry.
The cork looked ok when I took it off, probably Trevor is right.

I changed mine today too Jer,
I hope the blue stuff works. I'm going to Dover and Paris in the AM.

Adam is meeting me in Paris, then back from there.
After vibro homogenizing a gut full of beer and diesel dogs I'm returning home to share the returns with my lovely wife at the Sound of Music festival.(I hope the sounds of my music won't drown out the bands.)


Summer.

Gunk


"he who laughs fast, laughs first"~Gunk
#39744 06/13/08 11:45 am
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I have always used a bit of Hi-Tack on the edges of the sump plate before installing the new gasket, and clean off any excess so that it won't ooz and stick to the top of the gasket. I have taken off the sump plate numerous times without any ripping or tearing of the gasket... then again, maybe I have just been getting lucky!

#39745 06/17/08 5:36 pm
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Why not clean everything with laquer thinners and just use form a gasket.? I like the Loctite 515.

#39746 06/19/08 3:23 am
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They sell this stuff in auto supply stores called "rubber-fiber compound". It's thicker and more resilient than gasket paper, but it doesn't compress a lot, as do cork & neoprene. I've been using it for many years on rocker box covers and sump plates, with no gasket cement. These gaskets don't leak, they remove easily with no tenacious goo to clean up, and they can be reused many times.

Go easy on those sump plate nuts; the specified torque is like 6 ft-lbs. They will hold if everything is cleaned up good. (I wonder if you can get CEI Ny-loc nuts, that would be ideal.) It's also good practice to clean and Loctite the studs in place so they don't back out when you're trying to remove the nuts. However, if you're going to install an alloy sump plate, you'll be replacing the studs and nuts with bolts.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
#39747 06/19/08 3:27 am
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However, if you're going to install an alloy sump plate, you'll be replacing the studs and nuts with bolts.

The original studs are not long enough to make it through the thicker alloy cover.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.

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