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Gearard Offline OP
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Got the T140 last fall and don't know much about it yet, but I'm trying to get it road worthy. Rear brake reservoir had dried gunk in it, so i cleanded it out, filled and started to bleed the brake. Pedal seemed really tough to pump with the bleed screw open, occasionally not emitting any fluid per pump, and feeling like there was no refill of the master cyl piston after some pumps.

I had removed the brake from the bike so that the air could rise toward the bleed screw. Now the brake will skid the tire but it seems to take considerable pressure on the pedal to get brakeing, more than my A10 needs.

Question: Is this normal brake funtion on a T140, or could the master cylinder require repair or replacement? TIA


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If the reservoir had dried gunk in it, the entire system is contaminated. It all has to come apart and be thoroughly cleaned and replaced where needed. Check for pitting on the pistons. The inside of the master is often pitted. A couple of rebuild kits are needed also.


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What John said..........

And don't forget the caliper end of things.....there are fluid and dust seals that can be replaced and you should also check the surface of caliper pistons for pitting........

I have some Lockheed literature......email me offline if you want.....


HTH,

Steve


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Ditto what John said! Mine had all the same problems. Guarantee the whole rear system needs to be redone. DO NOT buy ant Taiwan cylinders if you have to get one and buy only Lockheed rebuild kits. Pay the extra and get quality parts ; and they are not cheap! Been there- done that and wasted much time and money on inferior stuff. If you wind up in a jam let me know. I have alot of extra braking parts left over. P.S.: When you bleed the rear, flip the caliper so the bleed screw is on the top, then put it back to it's normal position after it's bled. Good luck,
:bigt: Bob

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I might recommend replacing the rear hose also with the rebuild kit. I built a simple hone out of a scotch bright pad piece and a piece of safety wire twisted around it and mounted in a drill and ran her through the bore a few times. It's held up well for some 7 or so years. My hose colapsed a few years after the rebuild and would not let fluid pass trough properly but it looked fine on the outside. A kit and hose are not very expensive and well worth it. I also recommend purging the fluid from the system yearly with your winter maintenance. If your planning on riding in weather (rain) I would "seal" in the rubber dust boot with a good gasket former as to keep it weather tight. The placment is not the best to keep wetness out.


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All the above advice is good and should be helpful. I definetely agree about changing brake fluid every year. However, dont expect too much of the rear brake on the T140. Even a rear brake in perfect condition might feel somewhat meek, I think. Actually, my M20 has a sharper rear brake (single leading shoe, well oiled...). As long as the front one is good, it does not matter. If you are going to exchange the brake pressure hose, consider the smaller diameter, armoured version. Enjoy your bike!

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A small brake cylinder hone intended for a car will clean up the master cylinder bore nicely.


1978 Bonneville T140E
1974 Trident
1970 BSA Thunderbolt
1971 Norton Commando
1972 Norton Commando
1973 Norton Commando
1974 Norton Commando
2018 Kawasaki Z900RS


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Beware over-honing the master cylinder, it will then need to be reamed and sleeved (the better option anyway).


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Hi,

Fwiw:-

Quote
Originally posted by 66 Bonny:
DO NOT buy ant Taiwan cylinders
Certainly here in GB, stainless cylinders and pistons have been available for many years.

Quote
Originally posted by JTsmks:
I might recommend replacing the rear hose
On both my T160's, many years ago, I replaced both solid and rubber hoses with single pieces of Goodridge. I also incorporated a pressure switch to operate the brake light instead of the normal Heath Robinson arrangement. If anyone wants more information (methods, part numbers, etc.), e-mail or pm me.

Quote
Originally posted by JTsmks:
I also recommend purging the fluid from the system yearly
Quote
Originally posted by Torkel:
All the above advice is good and should be helpful. I definetely agree about changing brake fluid every year.
Or put in DOT5 and forget about it. I first used DOT5 in one of the T160's front brakes something like 25 years ago; apart from slight losses and later top-ups when I've fiddled with it, most of the original fluid is still there. The other bike's front brake and both rear brakes were done in the following few years.

Quote
Originally posted by JTsmks:
I would "seal" in the rubber dust boot with a good gasket former as to keep it weather tight.
Or just fill it with grease.

Quote
Originally posted by Torkel:
However, dont expect too much of the rear brake on the T140.
Ime, I'd disagree - before I converted the T160's to twin disc front brakes, both bikes gave me nasty moments in the wet when I managed to lock the rear wheel. frown If I could find the parts, I'd experiment with converting 'em to the TR65 rear drum arrangement, which appears to bolt to the standard disc hub.

Hth.

Regards,

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Gearard Offline OP
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Thanks for all the fine info from everyone. Currently have other issue taht has become higher priority than the bike. May PM some of you about your info when I get a chance to get back to the bike. Thanks again.


Another day, a few more miles...and a smile! Life is good!
'76 T140V
'10 T100
'58 A10
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GP's right. Only a light pass if you use a hone.


1978 Bonneville T140E
1974 Trident
1970 BSA Thunderbolt
1971 Norton Commando
1972 Norton Commando
1973 Norton Commando
1974 Norton Commando
2018 Kawasaki Z900RS


Everything will be alright in the end. If its not alright, its not the end.

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