Hi Splash, A few thoughts. I have great interest in clutch cables & durability.

First, exactly what brand of clutch cable were you using prior?

The strength of the cable wire is seldom a problem, but the end attachments can vary greatly on how easily they pull off.

Your home made cable may look odd, but could prove durable. Time will tell. In every case the cable will need lube. I'd use motor oil. It tends to work well * allows free return of cable & the lever which is important.

It looks like your lever did not have enough free play during clutch adjustment. That always leads to the click. Click happens when balls run onto the flat part of the cam, out of the dimple. That never happens with proper adjustment. But if it does, few things can happen. First you run out of effective clutch release, depending on how far out the rod adjustment was. Next, the ball can set on top of flat & not allow the lever to return. In this case you have to use a screwdriver or the like & push the lever down through the trans fill hole. The cam has a washer & cotter pin that retains the 2 halves together. This can be bent or compromised. In many cases the cam runs out of proper travel & doesn't want to rotate further. This puts great strain on cable.

Cam wear generally consists of wear in the center hole where retainer & return spring are. The lost motion allows sideways movement of lever rather than forcing lever to rotate cam. I've only seen this a few times. If all adjustments & lever fulcrum distance, cable etc are all perfect, then worn cam is suspect. I doubt your cam is worn. I've covered 36k miles on my bike & cam still works perfectly. But keep that in mind if all else is good.

Also the rod length & adjuster screw length are very important. If adjuster screw sticks out too far it will hit the plug in primary cover. You can see wear mark on inside of plug & this can be tested with grease as well. Put grease on end of adjuster screw head. Screw in plug. Pull lever. Check for grease transfer. You want a good .020" or more wiggle room to allow for expansion etc. This is very common with aftermarket rods. Shorten slotted end of screw as needed & re slot.

Adjust rod as explained in Rabers video. Check the end of screw clearance as above.

Regarding the special tool Rabers uses, I've adjusted hundreds of clutches without it. I own the tool now & it works good, but it's a luxury tool for sure. The point is to get the rod clearance right no matter what tool you use.

On an aside is the crimp on your stainless cable steel? Should cable break can you fish end out with magnet? It falls into cover where the old speedo drive was. Some leave it there. I don't. I fish it out.

Again, please respond on your prior cable brand. Thank you!

1973 Tiger 750