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FWIW, the flanders website seems to be down, in case anyone goes to look at their options

Flanderco.com

Pretty much standard procedure for most serious auto engine builders to run at 2000 rpm for twenty minutes often with light springs to break-in cam and lifters. Fine for a water cooled engine not so much for our air cooled ones. Even with a large fan on I would still be afraid of excess heat build up after even a couple of minutes. If I can I like to do first starts when the weather is cooler. Also, start it up and never let it sit and idle keep the rpm above 2000 for a few minutes. Then go on a ride always keeping revs above 2000 even when you are caught at a light for the first 100 miles or so.. Need to ensure that splash lubrication is going on. Also, try to minimize time spent trying to dial in an idle. Got plenty of time to do that after the engine is broken in.

dont u mean MAIN SHAFT not layshaft ?

if is shifting fine what is the problem? its not a honda

Steve,

I personally, would buy directly from Andover Norton. Although my pipes for my 1972 Commando are not cross-over style pipes, they are super beautiful, and were very affordable, even with shipping from England.

Hi Joe,
The problem with the shaft adaptor is that most sellers do not know what the part they offer will fit?? You will see "fits All 54-63" on their ads
You need to go to a seller (specialist) who knows the difference between the 4 or more outwardly identical parts
The dealers who specialise in Gold Star parts should know what you need, or as I suggested SRM
I wish you luck in finding good "used" clutch parts !!!
The Triumph clutch inner drum that incorporates a cush drive is what you need, I have never found a good secondhand one, when worn internally they cause all sorts of clutch issues, DAMHIK !!!

Changing the bike to 12 volt will make the wiring much simpler as you can do away with the troublesome combined lighting / charging / ignition switch..
Royal Enfield (2 wire) alternator / rotor and rectifier regulators might be a cheaper alternative to the replica Lucas parts. the modern stator will not match up with the old rotor..

John

I know virtually nothing about BSA twins, but …. (and this is not knowing much about the actual circumstances) if the stud won’t come out with the double nut method, then it might just want to snap off when you use another method. Maybe worth trying some localized heat and give the double nut another try? There were a couple of occasions where I wish I had followed my own advice about using heat.

Please start a project thread once you receive everything and start digging in

Italian Army - Regio Esercito
alexis ren wallpaper
North Africa

Krete or Greece

Normandy

Good to get a good result. Interestingly, nobody suggested what turned out to be the solution!

The following contains an unusually high density of information for a Britbike post, so non-RGS owners may want to avert their gaze.

The attached 2-page list definitely is a rough draft, work-in-progress at this point, but it already contains more information about the differences in the configurations of the various Rocket Gold Stars than I remember seeing anywhere else. If something you'd like to see is missing (e.g. tire width), chances are high it's because it isn't in any of the bulletins from which I extracted information. Also, I haven't created a list yet for the scrambler version, but will. I'd appreciate comments from RGS owners on the usefulness, or lack thereof, of the following, and for suggestions for changes, additions, subtractions, etc.

Some important notes on what follows:

-- I used Parts Service Bulletins G.A.10 (July 1960), G.21 (April 1962) and G.21B (October 1962), BSA Inc. supplementary list (February 21, 1963), Parts Service Bulletin N.8 (August 1963), and Service Sheet 93 (February 1963) to compile the attached list.

-- I've basically used the subject headings and order from factory bulletin G.21 dated April 1962.

-- G.21 contains section for when lighting is not fitted, and another that implies it was possible to have a machine without a saddle. I've not included those sections.

-- In all cases, the bulletins from which the following are extracted are supposed to list only the parts that are different than are in the standard Super Rocket and Gold Star Spares Catalogues.

-- I've only included the "important" components in the attached list, ignoring numerous nuts, bolts, washers, cables, etc.

-- G.21B dated October 1962 says everything on the West Coast U.S.A. machines is as was listed in G.21, except for the parts listed in G.21B.

-- In principle, the parts for West Coast machines listed in factory publication N.8 dated August 1963 should be the same as those in G.21B, but there are some additional parts as well as some differences. I've used square brackets to list the parts that are in N.8.

-- Factory publication G.A.10 dated July 1960 lists the parts for the upgraded clutch fitted to all Super Rockets after frame number GA7-9483, and thus to the later Rocket Gold Stars. I've not listed those parts separately, but only refer to G.A.10.

-- Blank spaces in a column mean those items weren't listed in a particular bulletin, which typically means that item is the same as in the UK-spec machine. However, there are exceptions, such as for the front forks. There are several fork configurations on the UK list, of which only one could be possible for a West or East Coast machine.

-- Even where one of the other bulletins contains the same part number as on G.21, I've included it in the attached list rather than leaving the space blank in the column.

-- At some point BSA added three extra digits to their part numbers, which are included in G.21 but not in the other bulletins. I've kept all the digits but, for example, 18642-6376 is the same as 42-6376.

-- Although what follows shows the differences between the three versions of machine, there are discrepancies. For example, N.8 says its list is the same as "standard" RGS specifications, except for what is on the list, but it shows the same 1-5/32" carburetor for the West Coast version as is on the "standard" G.21 list. Another example is the "standard" specification has a 23T engine sprocket, but the BSA Inc. list still lists that sprocket as if it differs from "standard."

-- N.8 has 9:1 pistons for West Coast Super Rockets, and a 1-5/32" carburetor. Although N.8 doesn't have an entry for Rocket Gold Star pistons, it does show the same 1-5/32" carburetor. Even though the column for West Coast pistons is blank in what follows, it's uncertain at this point whether they are 8.75:1 or 9:1.

IRS don’t care how you got it but want to make sure they get there cut after all tax evasion is what put al capone in prison

Thanks for the update but really, this is no time to give up.
Did you have a close look at the connections yet? There likely should be 2 fibre washers, one on each side, that electrically isolate the spring and wire connections from the fixed contact "plate" it is secured to. Have a close look at the previous photo.

I assume the new points are gapped correctly but they could still need cleaning. Don't laugh, just because they are new doesn't mean they work properly. I have encountered NOS points that had a grey, non conductive deposit on the face of each contact and basically had absolutely no chance of working until cleaned with fine sandpaper (wet or dry type).

Hang in there. There are loads of helpful, patient folk here to guide you through the process.

I may have a chance on Monday to go have another look. Depends on Marie's situation.

Tom:

Great that u used NITROUS ... it wouldnt work for me , here is why. Guy I know built some enormous V8 for the strip with a Nitrous button .. by the time race day came the bottle was flat ...then he had the nerve to blame me! .... man i love that stuff ahhahaha ROFLMFAO

Thank you Ed……just the kind of info I was looking for. I’ve ridden with both Jack and Brian and would do it again in a heartbeat.

Doesn’t sound like it’d be unreasonable if “someone” asked for a certain number of camping spots grouped together, especially for a block of preregistered attendees ???

Vintage British Cables. They do full rebuilds, too.

I tried to be a nice guy once to a new rider. A friend had passed away and his estate being auctioned. He had a lovely Guzzi Ambassador that had been restored. The restorer and I went to the sale to make sure that it wouldn't be "given away" and agreed on a price that we'd go up to.

Bidding was slow. We bid it up for the sake of the widow, and noticed that the only other guy bidding was an enthusiastic looking guy in his early twenties (we guessed). It hadn't reached our agreed price yet, but we said to each other "Us old guys are always b!tching and moaning that there are no young people getting into this hobby. Maybe we're the problem, bidding this up and keeping this young Guzzisti-wannabe from buying a bike at a price he can afford." So we backed off, and let the bike go to this young guy for less than we had agreed to buy it for.

The little [email protected] flogged it off on eBay three days later for almost twice the money.

Lannis

Yep. Thankyou Marc for clarifying for me.

I think it’s always worth adding and this is as good a time as any that when you buy these old bikes, you need two things in your arsenal. One is a parts book for your year of bike. The other is a workshop manual (preferably the factory manual) for your year.

Changes were made year on year and you’re best getting what is for your bike. It probably sounds like I’m having a dig but this is not meant to be as such.

The wsm will answer most questions and often has really good diagrams showing how to do certain things. And list out special tools and how/where to use them (between the two books)

Update…..painter got some free time and did the body work on the tank (no filler) and side covers……I don’t want to jinx it but they look great. He has the paint in and I got to okay it too. So it won’t take as long as I thought.

I talked with him a bit about my badges and he’s going to do a (tank matching) set…..I know that’s not how BSA did it but…..
He told me how he sometimes paints emblems/badges and I’m excited to see how these turn out. His “method” is something I hadn’t thought about so if it works….I could try a set myself.


Note to CBS……even though you’re all the way on the other side of the country….so far your company can beat any other when it comes to FAST SHIPPING..(IME)…usually it really doesn’t matter for the stuff I do but I’d like to hand him those badges early next week…..so you are my go to guys!!!!



Photos to follow

pidjones, I recently stripped fresh powder coat off a bike frame using furniture stripper from the hardware store. Brushed it on, let it sit for a time and it did the job just fine.

Thanks for that. I am new to Triumphs but not to O rings! The ones I have are just appreciably proud of the OD of the shaft when fitted. Given that my outer cover is from an older model and has no seal on the kickstart shaft I suspect that any leakage from the gearchange shaft will be minimal compared to any from the latter!

Very early days anyway but I'm doing trial assembly of various sub-assemblies to check compatibility. To my great surprise, the gearbox internals slid into place with no problem, although I did fit the sleeve gear to the mainshaft rather than trying to engage the layshaft gear with it as I pushed everything home. I was expecting a struggle getting the inner end of the layshaft and the selector spindle located in the shell.

I loved the look in his eye when he fired up the torch to create that car in the movie.

I had a friend in high school who drove a Cadillac Hearse. He died many years later in a parachute accident. Unfortunately it wasn't a fake accident.

BTW My late '72 T150V is also titled as a '73. It had the comical front brake when I bought it, since upgraded to disc.

That is one funky web hosting site.

"Dusky Jewel" Triton, looks like fun.

Thanks, much appreciated , only thing I do not understand viewing Mike Austin’s description and pics is how to determine, adjust reamer collar to prevent plunder body from bottoming out. seems if you get this wrong plunger tip elevation will be to high or to low to function. So it seems critical?