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Yes,
Mine is about 12" throw and eye wateringly heavy
However not having air over on Shanes press I do use it at least weekly because it is really quick & of course gives better feel than pumping a handle while watching a gauge rise .
Down side is they are not deep enough to do wheel bearings but perfect for single spring clutch work
In fact I really can not see much motorcycle use other than broaching if the arbour runs true enough and pressing in gear box bushes

Hit one of those dark edges with a file. it should pretty much slide off with minimal cutting... like nothing except a polish. if it takes any kind of a bite the lobe is soft

Hi Reverb, Looking like that's not going to work on your custom bike. So forget the pumper can on feed pipe.

Do you know what year the timing cover is? The threads are not that odd ball.

British standard pipe thread straight 1/8-28 will screw in a few threads. That's enough to test pressure. This is actually much more common fitting size than the American thread. 1/8-27 NPS straight. You might be able to find this British fitting. It was used on various cars like Datsun & Mazda plus many tractors etc. in USA anyway. I had older Datsun & Mazda. That's when I learned about that thread.

Also... In USA lamp parts meaning the threaded stem tube in table lamps & the like are 1/8-27 straight. You could screw a piece of lamp stem (it's hollow) into the timing cover. Bottom it in thread or use a lamp nut on thread to lock it into timing cover. Then slip rubber hose over the threads. Secure with hose clamp or twisting wire around it. Do same to gauge fitting. You might see some pressure just kicking. Or start motor briefly. Be ready to turn motor off if it blows hose off. If your test fittings & hose have a little leaking, no matter. It will only lower pressure a few #. All we want is to verify feed side is pumping.

Did you bench test the new Morgo pump before installing? If it passed bench test, highly unlikely it's not pumping. I know you did clean work so no dirt got into oil lines.
Don

More pictures

My neighbour runs an engineering shop and he is going to bore them to fit the Triumph shells. Just need to find the big end diameter. UPDATE - its 1.77"

Lovely cars and lovely beer.
We have regular car shows in my town, but it's mostly American cars and a couple of repro AC Cobras.
The closest I get to anything like in your post is my model of an SSK.

Hi Robert. Do you have volt meter, or test light?

Can you post detailed photos of your Boyer wiring.

For the sake of general knowledge, the brown/blue from battery & fuse goes to ignition switch. This wire is constantly "hot", meaning it has power key on or off.

Turning on key, power is sent to all the white wires on bike. So white is key on power. You'll see white wires here & there. They are all interconnected & power up when you turn on ignition switch.

There is a multi plug for right switch console in headlight shell. You'll see a white from inside the headlight connected to the grey wire sleeve from right handle bar. The grey sleeve will have a white wire running up it to the switch. The kill switch is hooked to this white wire. Thus the kill switch gets its power from the white wire.

When you turn kill switch to run, the switch sends power out on a white/yellow wire. Again back into the headlight shell to the chassis wire harness. Then the chassis white yellow USED TO POWER COILS ORGINALLY. BUT NOT NOW. This white/yellow had 2 spade connectors to coils. One to each coil. They are disconnected from coils for Boyer. One connector is tapped up or cut off. The remaining connector hooks to the Boyer white wire. So Boyer power can be controlled by kill switch.

However.... Some like to not use the kill switch. So they hook the Boyer white to the closest white wire on bike's harness. So the have effectively by passed the kill switch. Remember all the white wires are powered when ignition switch is turned on. So really any of the whites will work.

This is where detailed photos of you Boyer wiring as you had it last year would be helpful.

Thinking of the kill switch, the contacts in kill switch are pretty reliable. The solder joints in kill switch are pretty reliable. However the multi connector to the grey sleeve to switch is VERY UNRELIABLE. Many owners have cut the multi switch out & replaced it with bullet connectors like older bikes had or any other connector they desire. Will this multi connector go open circuit just setting a year. ABSOLUTELY!

Now if you have a volt meter or even a test light you can probe the connectors & determine if you have power or not. The very best test is volt meter & test light at same time. That gives a load. Failed connector or kill switch will read zero volts & test light will not shine. Weak connector will show lower than expected volts & test light will look dim.

Your spark test after hooking Boyer straight to battery shows you were NOT getting power to Boyer. Why that was is what the voltage tests will show.

To get a base voltage turn on key & put volt meter leads on battery +&-. Read volts & note it.

key on. With one side of volt meter or test light connected to ground, touch other probe to the white/yellow wire at Boyer connection. Use a needle to feel inside connector if needed & touch probe to the needle. Remember the probe must have metal to metal contact to the connector. So make sure the needle or probe point is actually getting to connector. A good system will read about .5 to 1.3v less that battery volts. There is normal volt drop in ignition & kill switches as well as the connectors. If you get higher volts, you have extra good system. Remember key must be on! Kill switch must be to run.



Again, test light & volt meter at same time is most accurate, but one or the other is usually good enough. If you just have test light. Hook it to battery first. Memorize brightness. If bub gets way dim, that's bad.

If this test passed & you had Boyer hooked to white/yellow it should have had spark.

No power at white/yellow?

With head light reflector removed fine the above multi plug/wires to right handle bar switch. Using skinny probe such as a needle hooked to volt meter lead with alligator clamp. Look at connector & push the needle next to wire until it touches metal of connector. Do not unplug connector during this test.

One probe to ground, the other to white on chassis side of multi connector or whatever connector owner replaced it with. You should have power on the both sides of connector. If bad which side(s) is no power. We'll go from there on that diagnosis. Key must be on!

Now move to the white/yellow wires.

One probe on ground, the other touch white/yellow on both sides of multi plug or whatever plug owner may have installed. Again you should have power both sides. Kill switch must be set to run. No power both sides we'll look into that later.

Power both sides white/yellow, but not back at the Boyer is problem in white/yellow wire itself.

If you are not familiar with electrical diagnosis, this stuff is very confusing. Look at your wiring. Look inside the headlight shell & become familiar with were the connectors & wires are. That will give a perspective of what we're talking about.

Your detailed photos of your wiring will pretty much show us what the prior owner did on wiring the system.

The other thing is the red wire.... You must have good ground to Boyer also.

Since you had spark on scratch test, it's sounding like the one coil has good enough ground.

At the same time the wires to the pick up plate & related connectors must be good. If you still have factory wire to points case, there are 2 snap (bullet) connectors at the top back bone. These hook to chassis harness & the chassis harness ran back to coils originally. Now repurposed as trigger wires for Boyer.

By a margin the #1 fault with electronic ignition is poor contact in connectors, including ground connections.

The front battery tray mount has red wires under the nut. Remove wires. Clean paint, metal as needed. Smear the area, connectors, threads, nut with dielectric grease. Petroleum jelly is better than nothing. This is the main ground for bike. If it's faulty, you'll chase your tail with ongoing problems. One of these eyelets goes straight to battery +. A good plan is hook Boyer red & coil ground directly to battery + or this ground bolt.

The ground wire on rear fender bracket goes to here also. There is also red wire that goes to front rocker box & into headlight. So the central ground is very important. Also make sure your right air box is well grounded. Remove air filter. Remove the right air box bolt. Remove paint from under bolt head & frame tab such you are sure the bolt/nut/ air box are well grounded to frame. Again thick coat of dielectric on all these fasteners & bare metal.

Smart money will remove every last bullet on bike. Clean bullet & sleeves. Smear dielectric on each part. Inspect the metal sleeves for splitting lengthwise into 2 halfs. This is common. Then only rubber sleeve holds bullets in.

This cleaning & dielectric grease leads to very trouble free electrics for years. I've done this to many bikes. Works really well. Any poor connection will have repercussions.
Don

Since "insulation" is the word of the day, I made a trip to pick up three more 4'×8' sheets of it, along with another roll of aluminized tape. I decided on three sheets because that would be more than needed to cover the NW and NE walls, along with the rest of the roof, and what was leftover could be usefully applied to the part of the SE wall not shielded by the adjacent water-harvesting tank.

Styrofoam insulation was very cheap, which it should be since its insulation value is nearly 0. So, I spent quite a bit more for panels made with a foam that has actual insulation properties.

Even without the insulation yet in place the cool air blowing from the A/C made working inside the shed quite tolerable. It was a long afternoon of measuring, cutting, fitting, and taping, but I finished the roof and, as the photograph shows, much of the NW wall.



However, it's time-consuming to piece together the segments, with most of that time spent applying tape to the edges to seal in the insulation so it won't later show up in the Vincent's tank. Close inspection of the photograph shows that the panel below the air equipment isn't done yet, only cut to size before I quit for the day. The NE wall will be equally time consuming because of the doors and the inlet for the filtered air. But, one more day might be enough to finish, at which point I'll learn whether all this effort (and expense…) was worthwhile.

I had the pleasure of John's company at a few rallies, always entertaining and extremely knowledgeable.
We all hope for a quick recovery and a long life for Mr Healy.

Squatted your truck right down didn't it

You can test the rectifier with your multimeter. Disconnect the wires and put your meter in Ohms at the lowest scale. Touch the black lead to the top center tab on your rectifier and touch each other tabs with the red lead. The outer two should read about 400, while the center should read double that. Now do the same with the meter leads reversed. All tabs should read open circuit.
Granted, this will not tell you how the rectifier behaves with high current going through it, but it will tell you if it's bad.
Testing the Zener is a bit more complicated, but my money is on a bad rectifier. In many years with my first Brit bike I replaced many rectifiers, never a Zener.
As mentioned, you can replace the rectifier with a modern unit mounted in the same location.

"Are the front sprockets in these things that crazy to get to?" - yes, they are British.
You could try pulling on the top and bottom run of the chain to free it up. Worst case you have to pull the clutch and take the door off to unpack the chain.

https://imgur.com/8eaH6qU

Rode my ‘79 T140D 90 miles on a sunny day.

Sounds like SOP for the guys I camp with at BIBR. Up at the crack of dawn, "Let's ride over to Suches for breakfast at Two Wheels!"
It's a lovely ride, but I like my breakfast BEFORE I ride, thank you.

Hey Ethel, there's a Howard Johnson's. Wanna get some clams?

Hi Reverb, I apologize for delay in responding. I made a brief search for the piece of steel to photo, but didn't readily find it. I used a cutoff wheel to create a rectangular tab of steel slightly wider than the larger spline diameter and ground it to fit in inner hub. Clamping the piece in the vise and putting the inner hub on it allowed me to use a steel clutch plate bolted to a lever (angle iron) move the outer and load up the cush drive rubbers on one side to intall the other side. I hope this makes sense.

DJinCA

How long did you have to wait for a pedestrian?

DJinCA

i have heard of harley people installing some sort of stop to allow the FM magneto to advance to run position but no farther. thrn tjey spring loaded the magneto's rotation and tightened the mount just enough to hold in a retard position for kickstarting.

once it was runnimg the vibration allowed the spring-loaded magneto to creep into the correct timing position.

a long time ago. sorry i dont have any more details

Yes the unit uses a different setup than the pre-unit .

but I'm guessing the ( same Magneto body )
"unit" BSA Magneto is set up differently than the triumph "unit" Magneto ?

The NOS 1970 tank I bought had a smooth button

Is the paint original ? Very nice.

And a few of my favorites:

Custom Trident:



Hurricane look alike:



This is why I find bone stock boring. What is "correct" is the only thing to look at and discuss here.



Auto body factory in Fleetwood, PA: