Britbike forum Forums Active Threads

Hi PM’d you back………..

Yes it is and it is in great shape other than a clogged pilot jet and perhaps a worn needle jet.

If possible, I send a telegram directly to "Trusty Triumph" in Meridian. That way I know they'll get it on the next steamer across the Atlantic- has cut down the shipping time from the company to about 3 months.

I don't think he did Allan. The gears came back pretty quickly. Interesting to see how long it lasts.

If you value the bike. rent the heated closed storage. Damp air causes many more problems than just the moisture in the gearbox.
Here in northern Illinois, winter can be (and sometimes HAS been) as long as five months.

If you do store the bike, either in a heated or an unheated facility, wipe grease on all the chrome parts and any bare metal you can see.
Fifty tears ago, when I had a car with chromed wheels, this was the best prevention for rust and corrosion for that vehicle, which was outside all winter.

Quite right--- British Cycle Supply is still very actively in business.
Headquartered in Nova Scotia but with a big warehouse in Maine.

Hi Wilf, thanks a lot for the offer, but I think I’ll just go with a crimped section of hose on the balance pipe and the fuel supply line. Cheers Bryan

gunner
In this crankshaft situation, like the cam that gets pulled to the right from screw into the tach drive gear, the crankshaft also gets pulled to the right from screwing into the oil pump gear..
Just remember that you are setting end play at room temperature. The week end I blew up (at 105mph) the temp was 4 degrees F / -15C and the cases would have shrunk close to interference fit at start up. I would never build at room temp, a NHT engine with under .010".

With a quality small bearing puller you can easily pull off and then press on repeatedly with out damage.to the crank or bearing. This is for ball or moderrn fag superblends. The middle type with rollers on the inner race are more difficult if you want to reuse them. A special tool may be needed to hold the rollers and prevent damage to the brass cage. I have not bothered yet to make one..
My preference only...
Avoid shims if possible.
The original shims were on the crank despite the parts book pix showing large shims to go behind the races in the case. I would prefer to remove the crank bearing over the case races. I would also only put shims on the timing side that gets held together with a nut... there is nothing on the drive side except press fit...and "there are stories"of shims broken up and have come off and showed up inside the bottom end.

There may be stuff that doesn't get measured or the improvement doesn't gradually appear but suddenly. Because where it needs to go is sort of the opposite of what the factory did and you tend to think how could this be right? You think they are making a venturi to speed it up, but actually it's just strangulation, it may venturi but air to the valve is... blocked! Making it the same but bigger gives more and it's top end, but the bigness is in so many places where it's not helping the blockage.

I was calculating against my 883. It has flow on my readings around 200cfm through a 38mm Lectron but they flow amazing and it uses TMs. So possibly 193-5cfm, with it running lean with guessed timing 85-83rwhp. Transposing that to a 650 it would mean 66.7rwhp with a flow of 143.6cfm. But the 34mm head with 42mm valves is around 160cfm. A 744 would be 71.5rwhp and need 163.4cfm. And the latest 42mm valve head is a little more. But I have a 34mm head with big valve reading 182cfm, what would that do? It would be like the 883 having 216cfm. But how it does it then kicks in. Size to flow is quality or efficiency or punch. And it is speed and ease of flow. Heaps of air moving fast at lower test pressure or vacuum. 216cfm with the same size port is that much more speed and midrange punch, if you can get it. 744 seems like the fun size to mess with. And changing that dynamic slightly could be significant in hp right across the range.

How it works on a 650cc if like the 883 output, then 66.7rwhp=75.6hp needing 143.6cfm which predicts 74hp in a calculator, 160cfm, which we have easily, predicts 80+ if you could get it. Just my cfm numbers that may not match other proper benches, but they relate to each other.
744 71.5rwhp=81hp and needs 160cfm which predicts 82hp but the little head can get more cfm, predicting 86hp, the big valve can get 180cfm which predicts 93hp. If it actually works better on the motor and you can get it without sacrificing punch. But the smaller one predicting 86hp may drive better. That's as a race engine, but like the 883 would be very streetable and nice. The 883 is hard to kick, a 744 isn't.

Triumph Pre-Unit 8" Front Drum & Brake Plate

Has OIF air filters. No idea how old coils or ignition system (pazon sure fire) is since it was on bike when I purchased it last year. Looking now to see how to check coils. Then go from there.

If you can access the RAT forum, I have put up the document on the technical tips area, I don’t really want to go through the hoops to either paying or messing about to get it onto here just to help people! The parallel port head flows well, but you probably need concentrics to make it work.
My name on the other forum is Mick Barratt, funnily enough my name.

Actually Mr Mike found a typo in my email address and I got my file without problems.
Thank you again.

Thanks for the effort, but I believe the issue has been resolved. Regards!

The short stanchions are 41-5116 and are 21 7/8" long. Often very hard to find but I think BBB has them.

“It appears that early original valve adjustment cap covers were diecast , making the nut part hollow”

I wouldn’t doubt that, all the ones I’ve seen and bought since 1976 have looked the same. You can see the remains of the sprues on them.

Reverb’s custom-made replacements were possibly made in a higher dome shape so as to keep the hex solid (the hollow allows a bit of space for the top of the valve adjuster, as well as saving metal money in production).
If so, then your idea of drilling across the hex for a torque handle will be a good one, though I’d doubt it could be anything like a quarter inch, unless the hex is an organ-stop of a nipple.

If Reverb would show us the inside and outside of one that he can remove, then we would have more idea of what we’re dealing with.

PM sent. I'll take it if the Catt doesn't

DJinCA

Cool. If you see the fuel slowly rising either the float is just too high, or the seat is cracked chipped from tapping. You need a strong magnifying glass to see if that is the case as I could not see it with my now old eyes.

FWIW - White spirits (I should know what this is but I don't - kerosene?) will have a different density than the pump fuel you are using. Apples and oranges I'm afraid. Sooo......

Price reduction - time for it to go!

$9850

thanks for the information Don

New Photo. More parts added.

Hi Bon,
The Draganfly site is useful when such questions arise !
https://draganfly.co.uk/shop/57613/wheel-bearing-sealed-1x2-14x58/#1440-89

So LJ1 Equivalent to: RLS8, LS10

John

Funnily enough a few years back I experimentally fitted an aftermarket spiral baffle silencer to my Suzuki SP370/DR400 single. It sounded great but was was very loud! With such things, the bike/motor, pipe lengths, quality of baffling etc. all must affect the outcome.

Hi all,



Today, in a rush as ever, I made an avoidable error & modified a rear sprocket supplied for a Triumph with Conical hub. The sprocket was supplied "ready to use" for such hubs. Now a waste of cash...
If I had checked it closely against the other sprockets I have, it would have revealed the new one's inner dia. to be too damn big!
My existing sprockets are 7 7/16" dia. The new one is 7 11/16"
Accordingly, the 5 mounting stud hole centres are in different pitch circle diameters.

So... I had assumed (never... ) that all Triumph & quite possibly BSA Conical rear hubs were the same.
It seems that this may not be the case...

I know there were detail changes to the hubs, as some have a drive side bearing boss externally threaded for a retaining / dust cap & others are plain - no thread or cap. No doubt there are other variations!

Can anyone confirm or say if there were differences in diameter of the sprocket / mounting point-ring / stud pitch circle dia. on hub. That is, differences between these rear hubs (if any) for the various Triumphs & BSA's ?
Does anyone have a dimensioned drawing/s, or at least just know the internal dimension/s of the sprocket / mounting rings of the possibly different versions of the hub?

Or can anyone point me in the right direction for this info?

Thanks


BTW I don't own a Triumph or have any literature on them!

Center stand can hit acorn nut on Charlie’s filter depending on year. Cure is replace acorn with thin all steel lock nut using lots of Loctite. The stems on this & Motao can unscrew if not well Loctited when unscrewing the filter top. I always counter hold filter when unscrewing which mostly prevents that.

Motao tends to hit stand as well. Overall Motao is much sturdier base. NEVER use the rubber orings on feed nipple or drain plug.

Oil feed nipple is sharp on both filters. Smooth it so it doesn’t chafe rubber into feed hose.

I’ve personally installed both. Only on T140 though. Both hit center stand.

Both use exactly same filter element. Ive found Motao element very high quality. eBay or Motao direct. Same price. eBay sold as two for $20 from Motao. Ive ran Motao in my bike several years now.

The elements are tiny, but flow is same as through screen. I did testing on this. Paper element in spin-on is same small size.

If I had early frame I’d personally use the Tricor. Don’t need to modify frame & looks factory made. But if you don’t mind cutting tube out in frame is the way to go.

The screen will still need to be cleaned with Tricor, cutting out tube not bad plan.
Don