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Oil not only lubricates, it cools , picking up heat from the TS bush, then the TS big end bearing before it gets to the drive side.
The poor drive side gets the least quantity/ hottest oil in the chain.

With a fire extinguisher to hand!

Hi Paul,
Afaik, the b&w diagram is in the workshop manual is correct? If you don't have the manual, last page of http://classicbike.biz/Triumph/Repair/Trident/69-73TridentRepair.pdf Where does that not match the wiring on the bike?

Absent a colour diagram, first rewire I did, I took the workshop manual wiring diagram to a local copy shop and had them blow it up to A3 or A2, then went over the lines with colour felt tips according to the b&w colour codes. However, I didn't find it hard to learn the colour codes.

Hth.

Regards,

Incidentally, I've got a lead on the original handlebars, levers and the carb. The previous owner still has them so hopefully when lockdown in the UK is lifted I can obtain them and get them back on the bike.

Hi Mark,

I received an email this morning, saying that you had made a post on this subject but when I clicked on the link it said that the page couldn't be found?

Am I going mad, or has your recent post been removed for some reason?

Kev E

Hi Uli,
I regret not.

The rear lamp mounting is for a '68-'70 twin, it was only used on the '70 T150; specifically the '69 T150's rear lamp mounting did not have the "cutaway" in the top front edge, because the '69 T150 grabrail did not have the tube around the rear mudguard.

The side pieces on the grabrail are from a US accessory; I believe they allowed a passenger grabrail and a rack to be interchanged?

I have an idea what the grabrail is from but I would need to see a photograph with one of the US accessory pieces removed?

The mudguard is also for a twin; generally, T150's did not have chromed (or stainless steel) mudguards before '73 (except possibly in specific markets like Canada?). Check the mudguard beside the oil tank; if it is for a twin, it might touch the oil tank.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Thanks all,

To address Tom's suggestions - I am using rose ( heim ) joints at both ends of the adjuster rod and will look at using tubes rather than a solid rod bent around any obstructions. Can't reduce the length of the gear lever as it will foul the kickstart and/or gearbox case and always thought you were supposed to use the same length arms at both ends ? ( I have a CB72 with similar arrangement ).
One thing that I am waiting to try is to fit the linkage below the kickstart and gearchange shafts but waiting on a 2.5mm allen key so I can dismantle the pedal/lever connection.

Stuart - will check the buttons if all else fails - don't want to pull the gearbox cover unless I have to. I didn't replace them when I rebuilt the gearbox so they could be original from '61. I had to get a hole welded in the back of the gearbox area where the person who originally fitted the engine into the Ducati frame had filed through it to make it fit the existing engine mounts, then patched it with epoxy. Had it all welded up then spent a couple of days trying to figure out why I couldn't select 4th gear - turned out the weld protruding into the gearbox was limiting the selector camplate movement !

Progress is currently held up by another issue ...the joys of non standard bikes !

Phil

Thank you. I've allready update the image links above.

Good advice all. The bottom coil of the one which I managed to extract did appear to have been pushed away from the wall. I ran the tap further into the hole and will try again. The two coils I put in were recessed below the top by maybe an 1/8".
The real problem is that the drill bit starts chattering once it gets close to the bottom of the hole.
The only other coil on this engine is for one of the rocker cover studs, and that doesn't need to be so long.

Nick, I appreciate your comments and knowledge of these bikes. I'm just confused by your undying allegiance to this brand. I've had this bike since I joined this forum and I still don't see the attraction.

BB, for the banjo I used a 10 mm washer, for the bowl drain 16 mm cause I had one to hand. I think 14 mm might be better for this application and I have one here to try when I get a second.

Alan, depends on your definition of overkill. In this case using Dowty washers, which are not exactly expensive, sealed the carb up. I didn't need to mess around dressing flanges or smearing sealing washers and threads with sealant. I just fitted them, nipped them up and went for a ride.

All the washers in this carb kit were fibre.

According to the sources, Mr Berger didn't patent it.
Mr Bosch did.
A very large number of years later.

The French probably needed lots of plugs because they made lots of engines !
De Dion Bouton reportedly had sold 40,000 of their engines before anyone else had made much of anything at all.

As someone once quoted, the Germans invented motorcycles, the French perfected them and then the English marketed them to the world.
Which is a great line, but Indian was making more motorcycles than the whole rest of them combined at one point ... !

...and what about the crankshafts made from steel billet? Could be that the lack of flex can transmit the vibration to the cases and fractured them? May be is a dumb question but I remember to read, long time ago, about different hypothesis regarding forged crankshafts; vibrations, forces; waves etc.

Thanks

If you don't mind me interfering.... You can just buy a small choke wound on a circular former
and run your HT lead through it, put a 1watt 12v zener across the choke and connect + side
to your tacho input and - side to ground that will trigger 90% of those tacho's.

I wonder if anyone knows the thread diameter and pitch for the Exhaust Adaptors on a ‘65 T120 and could let me know.

My thinking on this Cafe special is taking me to some interesting places. I’m mostly thinking about making more power from the 650 motor and making the bike as light as possible. I’m in the Carbon Fiber business so maybe a bunch of CF to get the weight down.

My parameters are it must look period correct, all the modified parts must be bolt-on so the bike could be returned to 100% original if required.

So how light can a T120 Cafe bike be . . . . ?

Ian
SoCal

Love it, awesome work!

The numbers match three examples of '68 frame numbers that I have.

Remember; "T120R" is a one-piece stamp, "DU" is also a one-piece stamp, and each number is an individual stamp.

I agree with Jon that Bob's numbers are legitimate.

Sunshine Chapter is on today thru Sat. at the Silver Sands Bridal club in Samsula Fl. Good to hear your Pa. chapter is happening.

Just stumbled on this wet sumping tech article at JRC site.

Triumph, not BSA.

Lots of other good tech there too!

https://jrcengineering.com/technical-support/wet-sumping-problems/

Hi Wind1, Excellent!!
Don

I do recall Chris Vincent owning a Triumph Bandit or BSA Fury that he generously allowed magazines to road test.

David Green who died this morning was a draughtsman at Triumph who uniquely spent all his working life at the last four entities of the marque: Triumph Engineering Co, BSA-Triumph , Meriden Workers Cooperative and Hinckley Triumph. He was a widower and leaves behind his son, Ian. By all accounts he was a gentleman and universally liked by his colleagues. Edward Turner noticed him at a grass track meet and mentioned it to him when David was called to his office to run an errand for him. David was also privy to Turner’s in-line four cylinder design which was not produced.

The things I will stoop to to lose weight...

Hi Shaun,
No !! the rocker oil pipe is a feed to the head. It is T'd into the return from the engine at the oil tank pipe fitting
There is a banjo fitting and a rubber connecting piece , seen here https://www.baxtercyclebooks.com/FB/BSA_1958_DBD34/17/index.html#zoom=z
The banjo has fibre washers either side and held with a thin 1/4BSP nut (57) part no 42-8340
https://www.baxtercyclebooks.com/FB/BSA_1958_DBD34/43/index.html#zoom=z


The 58 DBD parts book is online here https://www.baxtercycle.com/parts/parts-books-online/bsa/

John

Thanks Alan,that is indeed good news as the 200 is the only jet in my Amal spares cache.Motor is fresh rebuild new pistons bearings Cams valves etc.So no
full throttle likely for long time. Colin

Hi Reverb,
The entensive welding may possibly have annealed the alloy of the head.

It would be interesting to hear from a metallurgist like WM20 or maybe John Healy, to learn how raw castings were treated to provide structural strength.

This may help you rescue that head.