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I will undertake the measurements you require.

Richard,

It is a 1974 model that I purchased from BritBike member "larrymondello" in late 2017.

https://drive.google.com/drive/fold...UjQ?resourcekey=0-X67N-PlxSeyBRGO80qblBg

No man,

Suck out whatever liquid is in the cylinders and refill with kerosene and expect to let it sit for at least a few weeks or maybe a little more. That doesn't mean you can't try and nudge it along periodically. My first ever BSA was freed that way as well as my 1974 Honda CB750.

When trying to break it loose, you can try to nudge it using the kick start, you can put it in gear and try and rock it loose by turning the rear wheel (chain must be installed) or you can remove the primary cover and put a breaker bar on the crankshaft nut (most preferred method for maximum torque).

PM sent.

Hi Clive1, You drain gear box on unit 650/750 add 500cc the level will be good. 50cc extra probably won’t really hurt anything. Nor help. I’ve put 500cc in numerous gear boxes. It really is good.

I’ll won’t be able to measure tube until Monday.
Don

https://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/john-bull-style-rubber-tidy-sample-pack_4858.htm
( link is to a sample pack , just one of the options )

No I don’t think it’s normal but don’t have a lot of info on this bike that’s why I was asking.

That's similar to mine, which came with detachable and adjustable extra rails to suit different frame options.
Once collapsed, it leans against the wall without getting in the way.

i wisht it was mine

Dang, that's a heck of a good deal for a ready-to-go engine!

This little Beasty is taking shape. Looking to get it running this winter

C15 Factory Scramble Frame
B44 Square Barrel 441V
B50 Front end and tank

21-1877 manifold nuts are available from several manufacturers, distributor and dealers. They are not rare!!! We have over 100 in stock.

As did I. However, Stuart commented in another post that Triumph continued stamping T150 with G until October of '72. I surmise that they delayed the '73 models because they were busy making Hurricanes. I spent the money to have the production date verified by the TR3OC, September of '72, dispatched to Baltimore. My title says 1973.

That sounds about right. My T120V is EG 55***. I rebuilt the gearbox after the lay shaft broke between 3rd and 4th gears. The first-gear dog was the later one, but scarring inside the bottom of the case indicates that the early one probably broke at some time. The high gear was still the early one. I replaced that and the bearing, as well as the lay shaft.

Echoing Stuart Kirk's point, my Riley 1½ has sludge traps in its crank. Yes, it also has an oil filter. I always understood that sludge traps dated from the era of monograde oils. The Riley design dates originally from the 1920s. High detergent multigrade oils came in in the 1950s. In the Riley world you clean the crank (inc sludge traps) thoroughly when doing a full overhaul. As others have said, this is so impacted apparently it sometimes requires a drill to get the sludge out. I've never done this (on a Riley or Triumph engine), but somehow got away with it so far. However, I don't do the sort of miles reverb does. By all accounts, when the high detergent oils first came on the market this did sometimes shift some of the accumulated dirt into the bearings when used in an old engine. However, we're over fifty/sixty odd years from those days and I'd imagine anything now in regular use has been running on multigrades in that time. If I didn't have the sludge traps, I'm not sure I'd worry provided I was doing regular oil changes. And if high mileage, an oil filter.

GrandPaul, I wanted to say THANK YOU for recommending Keyboard motorcycle shippers.
They were affordable and very professional in their handling of my shipment.
Their time frame of 3-5 weeks may be off putting for some, but I was in no hurry.
I would definitely use them again.

Sorry, finger trouble. Dowty, not Dowry.

Yep, very little you can't get from Hitchcocks. They also have the parts catalog and shop manual online for free.

Gaskets should be no problem.You might ask about pistons from MAP http://www.mapcycle.com/performance...mph-t120-big-bore-forged-piston-set.html

Glad it worked out.

I am hoping to make it as well ...

Thanks for bringing this to my attention Richrd.... I certainly hope to make it... I just lost my ticket money for Mid Ohio though thinking nothing was going to stop me ,,but work did ... so there.... I will do everything I can to make the One State though as it is indeed a great event with great roads and even greater friends....

Could be, but I find it hard to believe that BSA would have made that same error for 3 years straight in their parts books (68, 69, 70). Mistakes weren't uncommon, but corrections were usually made by the next year's parts book it seems.

Well, 4 years running if you count the 67 book, calling for both rear anchor bolts to be 40-4820, and illustrating them as the extended type.

Guess if I had a dog in this struggle I'd call Peter Q and have him confirm types with numbers...

EDIT- no dog, but I checked his pictured available parts list anyway... suggest you do the same, inputting these 2 part's numbers.

Looking for a dealer decal from Marsden in Leeds. Any era or info appreciated.

I got some pictures from you. Nice bike. Replied to you by email.

Hi Nomad,

TriSupply is a good quality supplier (Oliver Barnes the proprietor really knows his stuff and knows these bikes inside out) but can be on the expensive side for run of the mill bits.

I’ve mainly used TMS Nottingham for most parts over the last 20 years, as most of the suppliers I used in the 80’s and 90’s have gone.
http://www.tms-motorcycles.co.uk/

Only an 18T gearbox sprocket was originally available for pre-units, as gearing changes were done with the engine sprocket.
I note that “disaster” sprocket of yours is 19T. As I said previously, we can’t know if that was just any old sprocket he had on hand to try to bodge-fit, or whether he wanted to gear it up a little on the cheap.

TMS list engine sprockets from 19T-24T.
The standard for a 6T would have been 22T (the more powerful and rev-willing TR6 and T120 had 21T).
How many teeth are on your engine sprocket? If it is in good condition you may wish to re-use it.

So when you buy a new gearbox sprocket (IMHO you must) it would be worth considering the overall gearing from crank to rear wheel, while keeping in mind factors such as:
-the bike is significantly lighter than the original Triumph
-the engine may have more power than original
-the kind of riding you expect to be doing (short twisties needing acceleration, fast roads/motorways etc)
-solo or with pillion

The original sprockets for a 6T would have been 22 engine X 43 clutch, then 18 gearbox X 43 wheel (with 3.50x18 tyre).
What is your rear tyre? It would be 3.50x19 on the original Norton rear wheel.
I think you can imagine the considerations involved.
Of course this only really matters if you hope to enjoy the bike to the max when its fully sorted, if just selling it on then less to concentrate on.

It is good you’ve already got the later rear 3/8 “ sprocket/brake drum (from the late 60s). I only found out about that when I bought my first triton (a bag of sxxt) when I was 17, it had a gearbox sprocket slimmed to ¼ “ to match the wheel sprocket, they wore out in short order. I didn’t know of such subtleties in 1977, so when I bought a new gearbox and rear wheel sprocket at considerable expense, I discovered the mis-match. Gotta get a sprocket from a late Atlas, and also the nuts to suit.

You’ve got a Norton front end, except for the brake plate. My guess is that’s from a late 60s Triumph (or BSA). They first introduced them in 1968 (I think) and it was with the problematic cable routing that you have. The following year it was modified to bring the cable in line with the fork.
There will be people here with expertise in this, I believe different components can be used to obviate the issue.

Moving on, I have no idea what’s going on with the clutch nuts and springs. They are not right. Its not surprising that they are leaving marks on the chaincase, they protrude far beyond the pressure plate. Get the right bits I‘d suggest.

Good to see the alternator is of the later encapsulated variety. Is it 2 or 3 wire? No simple way to know if the rotor magnetism is still strong enough for practical use until you run the engine.
What electrical bits were fitted, as in switches, bulbs, anything?

I’m not too excited by a distributor, but as its working that’s a good thing (better than 3 unknown magnetos).
There are other options in this area depending on where you wish to go with this project.

The old photo is pretty, but there’s nothing Manx about it. I had exactly the same tank for years, before ethanol destroyed it. I now have a vaguely similar shape alloy tank.
That is what I requested when I had it made.

I think the Manx look is pretty, but it is so ubiquitous that I find it a bit monotonous, like a uniform. That is why I posted years ago “Is the Triton still a special” because most builders were making bikes in a similar mould. I thought a special was supposed to be individual.
You could line up dozens of tritons along Brighton esplanade and hardly tell one from another. That is not individualism to me, its following a recipe.

Only my silly thoughts…