TriSupply is a good quality supplier (Oliver Barnes the proprietor really knows his stuff and knows these bikes inside out) but can be on the expensive side for run of the mill bits.
I’ve mainly used TMS Nottingham for most parts over the last 20 years, as most of the suppliers I used in the 80’s and 90’s have gone.http://www.tms-motorcycles.co.uk/
Only an 18T gearbox sprocket was originally available for pre-units, as gearing changes were done with the engine sprocket.
I note that “disaster” sprocket of yours is 19T. As I said previously, we can’t know if that was just any old sprocket he had on hand to try to bodge-fit, or whether he wanted to gear it up a little on the cheap.
TMS list engine sprockets from 19T-24T.
The standard for a 6T would have been 22T (the more powerful and rev-willing TR6 and T120 had 21T).
How many teeth are on your engine sprocket? If it is in good condition you may wish to re-use it.
So when you buy a new gearbox sprocket (IMHO you must) it would be worth considering the overall gearing from crank to rear wheel, while keeping in mind factors such as:
-the bike is significantly lighter than the original Triumph
-the engine may have more power than original
-the kind of riding you expect to be doing (short twisties needing acceleration, fast roads/motorways etc)
-solo or with pillion
The original sprockets for a 6T would have been 22 engine X 43 clutch, then 18 gearbox X 43 wheel (with 3.50x18 tyre).
What is your rear tyre? It would be 3.50x19 on the original Norton rear wheel.
I think you can imagine the considerations involved.
Of course this only really matters if you hope to enjoy the bike to the max when its fully sorted, if just selling it on then less to concentrate on.
It is good you’ve already got the later rear 3/8 “ sprocket/brake drum (from the late 60s). I only found out about that when I bought my first triton (a bag of sxxt) when I was 17, it had a gearbox sprocket slimmed to ¼ “ to match the wheel sprocket, they wore out in short order. I didn’t know of such subtleties in 1977, so when I bought a new gearbox and rear wheel sprocket at considerable expense, I discovered the mis-match. Gotta get a sprocket from a late Atlas, and also the nuts to suit.
You’ve got a Norton front end, except for the brake plate. My guess is that’s from a late 60s Triumph (or BSA). They first introduced them in 1968 (I think) and it was with the problematic cable routing that you have. The following year it was modified to bring the cable in line with the fork.
There will be people here with expertise in this, I believe different components can be used to obviate the issue.
Moving on, I have no idea what’s going on with the clutch nuts and springs. They are not right. Its not surprising that they are leaving marks on the chaincase, they protrude far beyond the pressure plate. Get the right bits I‘d suggest.
Good to see the alternator is of the later encapsulated variety. Is it 2 or 3 wire? No simple way to know if the rotor magnetism is still strong enough for practical use until you run the engine.
What electrical bits were fitted, as in switches, bulbs, anything?
I’m not too excited by a distributor, but as its working that’s a good thing (better than 3 unknown magnetos).
There are other options in this area depending on where you wish to go with this project.
The old photo is pretty, but there’s nothing Manx about it. I had exactly the same tank for years, before ethanol destroyed it. I now have a vaguely similar shape alloy tank.
That is what I requested when I had it made.
I think the Manx look is pretty, but it is so ubiquitous that I find it a bit monotonous, like a uniform. That is why I posted years ago “Is the Triton still a special” because most builders were making bikes in a similar mould. I thought a special was supposed to be individual.
You could line up dozens of tritons along Brighton esplanade and hardly tell one from another. That is not individualism to me, its following a recipe.
Only my silly thoughts…