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Hi Dave, you might get more interest if you were to pose you question on the British Motorcycles In General board.

The 6dh4s work on the 734 it flows the most through these carbs. They do not work on the 650 Firebird they go too lean. A place in Italy sell 4stroke needles and scooter shops sell them. I got some from Germany marketed as Naraku NK101.95. They are too pointy and go too rich for both these, they are ok for a while but go rich then the main takes over. They may be the thing in your application. The company is called Heavy Tune there is a shop in the UK. The needles are for 28-30pwk but they are the right length and fit the 34mm.

I have some if you cannot get them. I didn't understand the tapper before, but you can feel it when it's ballpark. If it's around 13-1 or 12-1 it's a world of difference to 16-1 or 10-1. On light load 14.7 to 15 seems ok, but when you turn the throttle you need 13-1 or less. The hotter it is the richer it gets.

That really is a storybook ending getting to see a grand old building restored to usefulness. It makes me think of historic steam railroad preservation. The volunteer effort must have been enormous.
How long ago did they start?

Not TriCor but looks like a decent set of JoMo 500 cams

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1156028643...r=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Have you seen proof of this in factory literature, or are you just speculating?

Routts TRW 403-99 Piston Sets with wrist pins-- slightly used--no rings or clips included--- $40 each set

+020" OS-- 9.5 comp. ratio-- piston A weighs 303.8 grams---skirt size 3.0065"
piston B weighs 303.2 grams-- skirt size 3.0062"
each pin weighs 72.9 grams

+.040" OS-- 8.5 comp. ratio-- piston A weighs 301.8 grams-- skirt size 3.0260"
piston B weighs 299.7 grams-- skirt size 3.0255"
A pin weighs 72.9 grams
B pin weighs 72.75 grams
note: piston A has 3 small dings near the oil ring groove and some weight matching work has begun. Nothing
that would cause a problem

NEW Bearings--- one. 70-2879. DS crank shaft roller bearing--MRJA1.1/8JC2--- this is the "tight" C2 clearance -- spec. for later years of 750 twins --$40
one. 57-0448. High Gear 4 speed transmission. RHP 1/LJ 31.7---- $40

NEW RING SET for 2 pistons--Hepolite Triumph 650. 71mm 2.7953. +.070". Vacuum Chromium. 1950-52 Thunder Bird-- original box and packaging ----$25

buyer pays shipping -- reply here or PM me-- thanks

gennelmens thanks for the input i went back and looked at my checkbook records for the last couple of years i spent about 20 percent of my income on motorcycle related projects/junk maybe i need to be content with what i have and not open another can of financial worms....

All go info,

Ok, I will indeed chamfer and deburr the tappet block holes and the cross drilled hole. Support the flange and be sure to measure the components prior to setting the blocks in.

@Tigernuts,
Wondering why the steel pipe would be more beneficial than blocking with wood.

@kevin,
Copy all...

@TR7RVMan,
Got all the info, thanks.

@Tinker Too,
I found them, thanks.

All right, I have work to do.

Thank you,
Rob

Hi, In my experience lever effort & stopping power ha never been an issue on the 68-70 TLS brake. It’s the pulsation/shutter
From out of round drum. This is very common on this brake. I put 30k miles on my ‘70 TR6C. The shudder started in lightly about 3k miles. I did everything, beveled lining, sanded drum, arced shoes, tried every adjustment, but root problem was out of round drum. Even in ‘71 was very hard to find a shop to turn drum. Dealer only replaced them. I did have money for that. I just lived with it. At 30k was horrible. Sold bike & bought car.
Don

For anyone interested in vending, I just exchanged emails with Tommy and there is a waitlist of 22 people. I’m going to mail a check to join the list but I’m not optimistic. On the upside, I guess that means I have more time to walk around and hunt for parts

Tracking shows my two copies made a second round trip between NJ and PA, with the latest entry showing them having left PA, for destination unknown, at 2:41am today. However, what tracking does not show is that one of the two copies, printed three days ago in Las Vegas, was dropped off on my doorstep this afternoon. Amazon works in mysterious ways.



Holding the book in my hands and flipping through the pages, I'm again reminded what a huge effort it required. But, I'm very pleased with the final result.

Seems there is some data coming forward that is interesting about this 70 T100c tank-- although the pictures of the EBAY T100c above clearly show the silver center strip and a OEM Decal-- Triumph in America says the 70 T100c is Jacaranda purple with no mention of any center strip color-- also my buddy's tank is probably the 3 gal version mentioned above because when I'm filling with solution to remove rust with electrolysis I'm adding at least 2 3/4 gals. Don Hutchinson says he has this color in stock. In his stock of sample NOS Triumph tanks he has this exact tank with a silver stripe.

That's about the temperature I use as well.
The boiling water in the old service sheets probably had to do with what was readily available.

Hi pidjones, If you oil your chain it makes a pretty substantial difference.
My 73 Tiger has the breather pipe over left outside of rear fender. If the axle was center of a clock, the filing off goes from 2 o’clock to 4 o’clock. This hose really takes a lot of chain lube.
If that hose wasn’t there it would spray bike even worse.
Riding double…. My wife’s pants had oil spots from the left hip pocket to about half way to knee. Back of license plate gets oily.
Earlier bikes with the wrap around at rear simply don’t do this.

Not getting into chain lube thread I’ve found GL5 80-90w gives very long chain life. It’s messy. My experience with dry wax lube, chain wears much more rapidly. PJ-Black has good reviews on short term tests. Long term chain life was poor. But this is they stickiest snot you’ll ever find. Need solvent to remove it. The link plates stay oily & gooie, however the pins & inside of rollers have zero lube after 200 miles. Add more PJ the fling off is worse than GL5.

So in my view cutting end off & curving it down like old ones & using GL5 is the best of both worlds.

The rim will get lube on it no matter what.

Real cure is oring chain. On my bike that would mean narrow sprockets. I don’t want to convert to oring. A wrap around chain guard would satisfy my needs.
Pm me your email & I’ll send you short video of my oil spray.
Don

Baz,
I contacted Paul at Alton this morning and explained the situation to him.
Paul will be contacting you directly to sort it out.
.. Gregg

Since those original small condensers are now over 50 years old, it will be remarkable if they still work. Also, conventional capacitance testers work at only a few volts, whereas the condensers will be subjected to pulses of several hundred in your ET system. What matters is their capacitance when measured at hundreds of volts so, even if a condenser seems to have an appropriate value with a conventional tester, that doesn't mean it will work. Unfortunately, high voltage capacitance testers are not very common.

Note the setting of the knob at the right on my high voltage condenser tester, up to 500 V for the 'Test Voltage', vs. the lack of any voltage indication on my LCR tester (that also measures inductance and resistance).





Both meters cover roughly the same range of capacitances, but only the Jackson can be used to test if a given condenser actually will function at the high voltage it will see when the points open. That said, if a condenser fails with the low-voltage LCR tester, it definitely is no good. It's just that if it passes, it doesn't mean it is good.

I'll bid on the hub tomorrow so keep your nose off 😅
The hub will be shipped to Central Wheel in B'ham UK and they will blast it and repaint and then fit their best 21" chrome rim made to spool hub using polished S/S 9 gauge spokes.

BSA, you last paragraph states most of the problems motorcyclists cause themselves.

Hey Boomer, thank you very much for posting the pics! Every little bit helps in this build we're doing. I still find it a little odd that the factory built the BB32R with a center stand. Mine has the tabs for it, but planning on just putting a bolt through the tabs and using it for hand operated stand. Thanks again!

And greetings from OZ
Always good to be forced to look up manuals to find an answer as it helps me remember things
Unlike the AHMRA who consider a sales catelogue to be the absolute gospel , BSA owners appreciate that what BSA put in their catelogue is not necessarily what was in the show rooms
I would assume that Argentina is some what similar to Australia where motorcycles were mostly daily transport not just weekend toys for boys .
Thus the high number of commuter bikes and low number of sport bikes .
Up until WWII more than 1/2 the powered vehicles on Australian roads were motorcycles but cinema rarely shows a number higher than 1% to 5% .
However unlike Argentina the Oz workforce were paid substantially more so our percentage of touring sized bike was larger , apparently around 30% of bike sales but this varied greatly state to state
Post WWII there was a pro motorcar movement to support car factories so motorcycles got descriminated against to force people to buy more cars .

Peter
I will pass this along to the other Peter unless you have already put the bite on him .
AFAIK the ame crowd from the NSW club will be there.
Shane has already booked a big room

I think you only get one shot at that, Celibate or chaste, perhaps.

As St Augustine is reputed to have said "Grant me celibacy and continence, but not just yet"

That BTH mag looks pretty nice. Buying and paying for a rebuild of an old mag would cost you a lot more than that I would think. I presume it is totally self generating and does not need a source of electricity.

Gordo

I just rebuilt my A65T and installed a Boyer 4 system. It will not start for anything.
I have gone through all the Boyer static checks. Everything checks out fine..
I have spark when the plug is lying on the exhaust pipe.

Is it possible the magnets are backwards? David, you mentioned that the bike won't start with the trigger leads reversed.?

Getting very frustrated. (Tired if kicking...)

I can recall doing up Caterpillar cyl head nuts with a 10ft extension tube on the torque wrench.
At that distance, it only takes a ~20lb push.
And you can stand clear and get a free swing at it.
Makes light work of it.
A 2nd pair of hands helps....