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Science can't wait until the morning, so I headed to the garage. I mentioned previously that I sacrificed one kickstarter quadrant by grinding away most of the stumpy tooth. It also happens that the quadrant doesn't make contact with the rear edge of the ratchet so inverting it shows the original profile of its teeth. I used these facts to set up the mechanism and photograph it from as far away as a stool would allow, to minimize parallax.

I outlined the teeth to make it easier to see the profile, and the first photograph shows the worst-case relative orientation of the teeth if there weren't a stumpy tooth to first knock the ratchet into position.



As can be seen, because of the rounded profile of gear teeth, as the quadrant rotates its leading full tooth would hit the ratchet tooth nearly head-on over a fairly large range of angles of the ratchet. However, as the next photograph shows, also in the worst-case relative orientation, the ~90° front face of the stumpy tooth only makes grazing contact with the ratchet tooth.



Since I didn't have the ratchet mounted on a spindle to precisely locate it, I screwed up this second photo slightly. The height of the stumpy tooth is such that its tip can't sneak by the tip of a ratchet tooth, which the above photo shows it having done.

Anyway, this shows why there's a stumpy tooth. Unfortunately, the repeated hammering of a 180-lb. rider on the gear teeth takes a toll. If you look closely at the first photograph you'll see the "90°" tip of the stumpy tooth is slightly worn. However, since the ratchet teeth show the most wear, I'll speculate they are made from a softer steel than the quadrant.

What would be the reason for not leaving the timed breather just like it is for a non-racebike. ?


Well i like the idea of using the primary side a a plenum and leaving out the drive side seal.
That way you don't have to check primary oil level.
You do need to have a vent somewhere though.

Well that rules out all pre1957 being the same.
The 54 has only 2 tabs, on top of the swingarm.
One on top of the pivot, and one well forward of the sprocket.

That front one of yourn looks very close to the tyre.
Not that it matters, I guess
Are they threaded though - no room for a nut or bolt head.

I was having same trouble with 67 head. Used the black Vinton oring for a 750 on the top and middle or thin white on bottom. No leaks. Set up for about 0.30 crush. Oring fits the top counter bore and tube much better than the white square profiles.

Gavin, The area which needed the most cutting away was the top of the timing side,
above the oil splash ring, plus the centre cross piece. The drive side and the timing
side both go onto the barrel individually but when paired and bolted up the drive side
can only have 2 studs fitted or it binds. Not the end of the world, i remember having
a similar problem with one of my old SRM kits, as you say a couple of holes may need
opening by 0.5mm or so.

Hi Denis,
Depends what you mean by "time capsule" ... ... it might have a '57 and '60 frame and engine numbers but your bike is a lo-on-ng way from how Triumph built 'em in 1957 and 1960 ...

It looks typical of bikes that were second-hand in the early 1960's - GB had the 'cafe racer' craze - the standard nacelle, deeply-valanced front fender and rear "bathtub" enclosure were ditched for aftermarket parts. However, I'm somewhat surprised at a lot of John Tickle parts; humble 3TA, the 'cafe-racer-ising' was usually done by an impecunious youth who'd just past his driving test, couldn't afford the hire-purchase payments and insurance on a bigger bike but still wanted the girls to think he had a 650 ... I suspect your bike was later 'rescued' with the later, more-common, headlamp bucket, fenders, sidepanel, air filter, etc. to make a saleable bike to someone who just wanted a 'trad' Triumph twin, wasn't concerned about "matching numbers", "correct" parts, yadda, yadda?

Unless a p.o. recognises the license plate, 'fraid it isn't likely to help you discover any post-sale-new history. However, engine and frame numbers to either the Vintage Motor Cycle Club Library or the Triumph Owners MCC Dating Service will get you at least when the original engines were built, when the motorcycles were built and when/where they were dispatched.

Hth.

Regards,

I think you need to refine your googling technique !!

I have a handy large mirror for such viewing purposes.
Just remember that everything is somewhat reversed ....

Taking a photo or 2 under there can often show detail relevant to the subject at hand also.
(Having an autofocus camera/mode helps)
And everything is the correct way round
And you have a permanent record of other stuff.
As long as you can find where you 'filed' it

DO YOU SHOUT AT EVERYONE IN YOUR LIFE !!!!

I rest my case ...

Need Triumph disc bike frame. Need undamaged, must have title. Email to —- [email protected]

Thank, John

that's a really tolerant cat. None of ours are THAT agreeable.

And that is one reason for get togethers like the three state ride. It is always a good time sitting around a campfire swapping lies. Like has been said its not the ride its the people.

Thanks, Brian--- that makes sense.

Hi Padsdad
The fact that you can read the number convinces me that you have a longrod. This means you need a group 1 piston. However reading the text I am not sure if you are looking for another piston or not. The number on the rod is usually polished off on race engines, but normal owners do not polish that far. As far as I know the actual rods are the same

When you use the 65-2444 cam on a 350 engine you need the 10degree engine pinion to make it work. From memory (not very good anymore) if you hold the pinion up to the light, with the key slot at the top, on a standard pinion there will be a tooth over the key slot.. On the 10degree pinion the slot will be between teeth. If my memory is faulty you will soon know because everyone just rushed out to the garage to check.
If you seek a different piston pm me and I will see if I can help.

I will follow the instruction above to see if I can post some info.
best regards, Pat A,

yes ,
the 2 Wires from the distributor were not covered ... (post was already too long )
but they are wired the same as any other analog Boyer .
The two wires from the distributor connect to the same/ similar colored wires in the control box
and form the inputs for the timing signaling circuit .
Distributor wires are outputs from a tiny p.m. alternator , that when in motion , produces an AC signal
that "talks" to the b-box ... and provides all of the spark timing signaling inputs .

i used this 6 v. diagram as "the before wiring" ... because it has switch-PIN readouts , which I assume are correct .
( diagram was snagged from the web , BSA Owners Club , and purported to be an improved diagram from 1965 ... resolution is not the best )

Thanks, Don.
Confirmed slides are #3 and the filters are gauze (no markings, don't know the brand).

I'll go ahead and order 19 pilot jets and TDC tool. I'm sure it will run better, I''ve always thought my pilot screws ended up being too far in when synching the carbs.

As for the carburization - I took off the head today. The combustion chambers looked "normal" with a thin and even veneer of carbon. But the piston tops were a different story. There was heavy buildup in the intake valve cutouts and on the top of the dome. The rest of the piston surface looked "normal." The pock marks I mentioned above ended up being being craters in the carbon layer which was about 1/16" thick in some areas.

Another peculiarity - while the throttle slides had matching numbers printed on them, the shape of the cut-outs for the choke slides are different. One is "T" shaped to match the choke slide profile and the other is semi-circular (for lack of a better description).

I'll get it together and report back later this week.

Good afternoon and good evening for some folks ..........new to the group ......figured I would join to see if possibly anyone on here has any hard to find.1957 t100rr pre unit parts ......I'm currently trying to complete my search so that I can start moving forward with the restoration ...with that being said if you yourself or someone you know has bits please feel free to message me ......this im.sure it will be a long road but I'm prepared for the long haul ....

Only 8 days to go------------------
WEDNESDAY 14th JUNE at RUTTS HUT, CLIFTON NJ --- 5 PM to late
The Rutts Ripper Old Bike Night!

So-- I am now back from CA having been there for my grandsons fifth birthday.
Before I left 12 days ago I gave the A75RV oil tank a second coat of what is supposed to be Dove Grey.
When I painted it it did not look any different from the first coat--- very greenish.
But-- as suggested by Don Hutchinson--- I left it to fully dry.
Yesterday to my untrained eye it was no different from just the first coat (see photo taken yesterday).
So yesterday I called Don and we had a good chat.
He cannot understand it--- that made me feel a bit better as I dont understand it either.
Don was very helpful--- giving a great example of how we all would like a supplier to react if there is a problem.
Don is going to mix another tin of "Dove Grey" and send it to me.
So until I get it --- watch this space.
I could get on with other things on the bike but I am fully tied up at the moment with the Rutts Ripper Old Bike Night scheduled for Wednesday 14th June (see Events page) so probably nothing will happen until I get the fresh paint from Don.
Aaaaah!-- the trials and tribulations of Brit bike restorations!

Do you still habe this frame ?

wrench136
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Looking for a stock chainguard for a 56 Wideline frame. its a special, so I don't care about style. if a Slimline works? ....I'm good with that too.

Anyone have one to sell?

Thanks

60s Beatles on my USB music stick.

You know, before they got weird, kinda like Brikbikes...

That's NOT my dog; it's the kid's beagle.

Anyway she has a subscription to Amazon auto-delivery of a case of 6oz cans of low salt chicken breast meat every 6 weeks. It's cheaper than dog food, and she likes it better. It has brought her weight down to normal, with good energy level, and we know she won't leave any on the plate.

Oy, Butterscotch!

Wow what a fantastic post. Pics tell a helluva story, gorgeous bike! It would be so much fun to ride that around the neighborhood.

Nice......."sorta" reminds me of the BIBR before the move to the fairgrounds. (but I only attended two of those...missed all the early fun)

The fact that I'm not having to deal with a BIG race track that's trying to suck all the money out of you they can get... is nice too IMO.

AND........even though it's a Triumph National Rally........other brands don't seem to be frowned upon. You gota like that.

I'm really looking forward to it.