I am trying to replace the Rotor on My 1971 Triumph Bonneville. There is a problem removing the nut holding the rotor in. The manual says to put a metal rod down in the the crankshaft to hold it still to crank on the nut. That would require removing the cylinder heads. Is there another way??? Is the nut reverse threaded? Someone suggested putting a rope down the spark plug hole to hold the piston down hmmm. Trying to do this during a raging snow storm.. Any ideas???
If you put the bike in fourth gear and apply the back brake you can undo the nut. You have to tap the spanner to undo it sometimes but it is not very tight and is a normal thread. When you put it back on use the tab washer or some BLUE loctite.
Someone recently convinced me to use the red loctite in this situation. I don't have the rotor off yet, and YES I did read that about "locking" out the crank, so this post helps me... hope the red loctite--OR BLUE!--help you... I am CONVINCED now that loctite is a required item. LOL.
Re: Triumph Bonneville: Rotor Nut Removal???#87912 02/06/0612:32 am02/06/0612:32 am
Hi Guys! I tried the fourth gear thing. Even put as 2x4 through the rear wheel spokes and all I did was have the clutch slip. Still can't get it loose. Aside from buying an impact does anyone have any other ideas? Snowbob P/S There will be a British Only ride here, June 2,3&4, 2006. Look up www.pentwatermichigan.com. Scroll down to 'calendar' we are the first listed under June.
Is it possible that the previous owner/mechanic used red loctite on the nut? If so, you will have to heat, or should I say WARM, the nut to release the loctite.
On the other internet site somone suggested heating the oil way plug on his crankshaft to release the plug that was loctited in place. Out came the torches and he proceeded to heat the whole half of the crankshaft red hot.
Warm, gentlemen! You know, like boiling water warm. john
If the heat doesn't do the trick, you can also put the bike in 4th, have someone step on the rear brake as Dave mentioned, then use a 2 foot long pipe over your ratchet handle to use as a breaker bar for more leverage...and hope that it's red loctite holding the nut on & not the result of the previous owner possibly having cross-threaded it. Good luck!
I guess you could tighten the clutch springs - might overcome the clutch slip enough. I'd be wary of too much heat. I seem to vaguely remember from my schoolboy science that heat is one way to destroy a magnet - ie your rotor!
Re: Triumph Bonneville: Rotor Nut Removal???#87920 02/07/0612:39 am02/07/0612:39 am
Especially the part: Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?
A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface.
This is why I hate Red Loctite around vintage motorcycles. Heating the a hardened part to 500 degrees will remove a lot of the temper , and strength, from the metal.
Blue is very appropriate for the things we work on. When you need to service the motorcycle the fasteners can be removed with normal tools without any heroic effort or damaged parts. john
Re: Triumph Bonneville: Rotor Nut Removal???#87921 02/07/0612:51 am02/07/0612:51 am
John, I've always thought that you should have to have a license to buy 'Red' Locktite. I recently rebuilt an engine that the PM (previous mechanic) had used Red Locktite on EVERYTHING, including drain plugs and Phillips head case screws!! Air impact and heat were the only ways to get some of them apart. Lots of cussing on my part.
Re: Triumph Bonneville: Rotor Nut Removal???#87923 02/07/064:03 am02/07/064:03 am
If you can't get the clutch not to slip, the rope-down-the-spark plug hole-trick works! Start with the piston all the way down and valves closed (beginning of the compression stroke). Feed in about 17 feet of 1/2" cotton clothesline. The rope hurts nothing and is easily removed when you're done.
A folded up [otherwise to be discarded] copper head gasket between the primary chain and clutch chainwheel will work as well as a piece of timber and leave less behind. Loctite make a grade called "Super Wick In" which is great for securing carb flange nuts if you use the smallest drop possible, applied with a matchstick, after the carb has been mounted. Slop it on and the studs will have to be removed when next the carb has to come off.
Hi Guys! Yeah!!!! I finally got the damn thing loose. I have a heat gun that will melt concrete. I put it on a low setting as John recommended, jamed a 1x2 between the primary and the clutch and guess what? The thing came off like a very tight spark plug comes out. Now the only problem is does anyone have a use for a whole wad of used red Loctite? Regarding my rally June 2,3&4,2006. As long as it is British I don't care if it was built in England, Australia or India, ie, new Royal Enfields, please show up. This is to benefit the Pentwater Public Library. Snowbob