Andy .. Your idea brings to mind a full length method done that some of the race tuners did during 'The Era'. As described to me the OEM case inserts were threaded internally and a length of cro-mo tubing was threaded in and were used as head bolts with the upper end of the tubes tapped for bolts going through the top of the head. Using these bolts securing the head, vs full length studs allowed removing the head without disturbing the barrel or the tubular studs. I believe internal head modifications were also required dealing with oil drain down issues, I don't know the details....
Yes, I plugged the drains between the valve cavity and stud hole and re drilled them at a different angle. There is still a hole between the stud hole and pushrod tunnel so I am fitting "O" rings on the studs at the head gasket line to keep the oil in.
Well not MY bike, my son's TR5T. Getting ready to put the barrel on. I don't like these Tbolt clamps nearly as much as I like the wrinkle-band ring compressors I have for my A65, but I wasn't able to source those in the right size for the TR5T. With the Tbolt clamps, you have to figure the right tension, tight enough to sufficiently compress the rings, but not so tight as to bind on the pistons. We'll see how it goes...
took 72 T120 for ride after installing new Lucas rotor/stator.....new motobatt battery had 12.3 volts across the posts when I left..went on 3 mile ride 45mph with lights on got home checked battery 12.1 volts......uh oh ..the tympanium on this bike is 20 years old so ordered a new podtronics will try that...also sanny claws brought me a new polished stainless front fender for the commando project so I put that on..also cleaned and scotchbrite pad cleaned innards of front caliper for that bike in prep for rebuild with new o-rings and stainless pistons..
raf, 12.3 is low for a new battery. With a full charge on it, it should be more like 12.7. Did you put a full charge on it before putting it into service? Don't ever believe a battery retailer if he tells you it's fully charged when it leaves the store. Motobatt, is that an AGM? If so, be sure to use a charger that has an "AGM" setting. Test static voltage 1/2 hr. after charging. If it's not 12.7-12.8, you may have gotten a crap battery. You wouldn't be the first. The battery can be further tested by powering a headlamp for 10-15 minutes. The voltage may drop to 11.8-11.9 while the headlamp is on, but should jump back up over 12 when the headlamp is disconnected.
If the battery checks out, and before giving up on the Tympanium, put a full charge on the battery, then start the engine and read voltage across the battery with the headlamp off. It should read around 13V at a "spirited" idle, and climb to around 14.5 when you rev it.
mark here's the saga..took bike out for a few rides before cold got here and noticed 3 year old scorpion battery was getting weak and last ride I barely made it home and checked battery it was about 11 volts (Boyer ignition) so got new motobatt agm and rode bike and barely made it home again about 10.5 volts showing upon landing...so battery not getting charge so took old rotor/stator off and date stamped on back of rotor was 4 72 it was obviously the original one...stator was old too and wires were toast...put new Lucas rotor/stator on with new connections to old tympanium (it was on bike and looked old when I got it 10 years ago) put battery on battery tender jr charger for an hour or so and took off got home and could not see that battery was charging...my multimeter is digital type and solid copper plug wires and nonsuppressed caps and wires drives it nuts when engine is running so I have to turn engine off and quickly put probes on battery posts...since wires on the old tympanium looked fishy I found a good deal on a anew podtronics and will try that when it warms up a bit...I don't see how it can be anything else. happy new year alan
belay all that above...took time off from work this afternoon and traced all wires...found culprit....broken tympanium ground wire hidden under ancient electrical tape oh well...got all new charging system so wont have t worry about that for a while
Glad you found the problem. Like the saying goes, "It's always the simple stuff".
Forgive my battery diatribe if I'm preaching to the choir. I work at a place where we make electric mobility scooters, so batteries are my life.
There's only one part I don't understand: "...my multimeter is digital type and solid copper plug wires and nonsuppressed caps and wires drives it nuts when engine is running..."
I've never experienced that with my digital meter, and it's nothing fancy, just a $35 Radio Shack. I've never heard of a VM picking up RF interference - or is it just voltage fluctuations, and the meter has no stabilization circuitry whatsoever?
TR5T, the barrel is on. The Tbolt clamp ring compressors worked great, the barrel dropped right on. Getting the clamps off required a bit of fiddling; they open all the way up, but neither end of the clamp will fit between the cylinders, so I had to get one end down below the piston skirt and feed it through.
The picture shows the cut-off ring spanner I use for the front two base nuts. With the hose around it, I can get a good deal of torque on it. No torque wrench used, as was discussed in another thread. I just keep going around and pulling about as hard as I can until the nuts won't turn anymore. I figure that's about 25 ft.-lbs.
Decided it was time for some action on the Enfield. Took out the primary cover, and tested if paint stripper would touch it Yep, bubbled up nicely, easy to scrape off. Done in no time. Coat of paint or 2, and will be as good as new.
One small step for man...
Obviously been refinished some time in the past, genuine stoved enamel can be a real bear to get off. (And the local sandblasting guru has shut up shop, so tough to find someone with the right equipment these days.) Those silvery patches are some sort of levelling coat, not factory at all. Bit of hammer and dolly work required.
Re: What did you do to your bike today --join in
[Re: chris l]
#722084 01/15/183:18 am01/15/183:18 am
Ongoing project to refurb this mill and use at the same time. Head has been refurbed and is running.
Bridgeport M Head mounted on a 1942 Adcock Shipley Model 1 horizontal mill. Its mounted on the Arbor support shaft with a right angle mount and surplus arbor support shaft is pushed through to rear. Just added back motor drive to the horizontal shaft so it can be used to drive the table and if the head is removed or swung horizontal then use it as originally setup as horizontal mill. VFD's on both motors and next addition will be 4 axis DRO, later I will mount a 2.5" shaft on the top so the head can be moved 6" higher to accommodate crankcases etc. Currently the head is too low to get large items under especially if a vice is used. The M head is early but not 1942 but the head serial number is unsearchable to find the age, the only references are for complete mills not the head alone.
This is the right angle mount which holds the head and grips the 2.5" shaft