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Re: Devimead end feed A65
[Re: Allan Gill]
#720058
12/26/17 9:46 pm
12/26/17 9:46 pm
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 419 Cork Ireland
chaterlea25
BritBike Forum member
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BritBike Forum member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 419
Cork Ireland
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Hi, cold starting oil pressure and its off the scale In that case the PRV is not opening at the correct pressure (or not opening at all) Pressure should not rise above the leak off setting, 60/65lbs/sq in. from memory I would replace the PRV John
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Re: Devimead end feed A65
[Re: Ian Mcgregor]
#720076
12/26/17 11:27 pm
12/26/17 11:27 pm
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,757 argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler
BritBike Forum member
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BritBike Forum member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,757
argyll. scotland, uk
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I stick the seal into the housing with bearing fit,doesnt come out without a struggle .
71 Devimead A65 750 56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65 Cagiva Raptor 650 MZ TS 250 The poster formerly known as Pod
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Re: Devimead end feed A65
[Re: Ian Mcgregor]
#720135
12/27/17 2:57 pm
12/27/17 2:57 pm
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 771 Brisbane, Australia
BrizzoBrit

Life member
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Life member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 771
Brisbane, Australia
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How about an annular ring of thin steel with a couple of tabs that could be used to screw it down (3/16 or 2BA countersunk or something similar). Sounds like you could squeeze something about 1/8" thick in there? Sure I've seen a solution like this somewhere. Quick search revealed this. Take a look at this thread of Mark's and you'll get the gist. http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=40261Ray
BSA 1969 A65F BSA 1966 A65H Triumph 1968 T120 Kawasaki A1R & too many projects!
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Re: Devimead end feed A65
[Re: Ian Mcgregor]
#720283
12/28/17 7:17 pm
12/28/17 7:17 pm
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Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 528 Isle of Wight, UK
koan58
BritBike Forum member
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BritBike Forum member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 528
Isle of Wight, UK
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Hi Ian, I'm not familiar with the A65 and how much metal and space you have to play with. However, I had exactly the same issue with my pre-unit Triumph. In ~1980 I had the timing cover modified by a local engineer to take the crank oil seal as used in unit Triumphs. This has become a common update, and is done using a retaining circlip just as in the units.
My installation, however, didn't have the circlip. The seal simply pressed into it's recess, leaving the seal flush with the surface of the timing cover. Your situation seems to be the same? Very soon, I had the seal pop out, and when the next seal did the same thing, it was obvious that a way of retaining the seal securely was essential for such a critical item. Today, I would take it back for the engineer to recess the seal further for a circlip, as the seal-bearing nose of the crank has plenty of length. Would your situation permit this? If so, I think it the best way to go, and any good engineer (SRM maybe?) should be able to do it.
In my case, I chose to try a "bodge it and see" approach, much like Brizzo's suggestion. In a Triumph, the inside surface of the timing cover comes close to the crank pinion nut, so the solution had to be thin. I used stainless sheet (~1mm or so thick) to make a retaining plate. Then in the alloy outside of the seal, drilled and tapped 2 holes, something like ~M3. Then loctited 2 bolts in place, firmly bottoming them. Cut the bolts down leaving just enough to play with, allowing for the thickness of retaining plate and nuts.
It was then a matter of assembling the plate/nuts, filing the studs down flush with the nuts, then trial fitting the cover, finding it won't go all the way home. The gap of conflict showed that filing the nuts/studs to ~half the nut's original thickness would get me close, but not close enough. So ended up filing a little off the outer surface of the crank pinion nut as well. As I said "bodge it and see" but I didn't think I could do much damage by trying.
Once I was happy with it, I cleaned up the threads on the studs/nuts, put the nuts back on, and dot-punched the nuts. When routinely changing the seal a few years later, the studs came out with the nuts (reassuringly), so I cut fine screwdriver slots in their ends before loctiting them back in. That allowed me to screw them in, and also on later removals, to hold the stud while undoing the nut.
That set up is still in place more than 35 years later. None of it has ever loosened in action. I guess I've replaced the seal routinely 4 or 5 times, and once because the seal split.
By the sounds of it, you may have more room to play with on your bike, in which case such a solution would be a lot less fuss!
Cheers Dave
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Re: Devimead end feed A65
[Re: Ian Mcgregor]
#720988
01/03/18 10:42 pm
01/03/18 10:42 pm
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,677 Aus
NickL
BritBike Forum member
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BritBike Forum member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,677
Aus
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You could also look into finding a 4mm oil seal that would just about allow the circlip groove to be cut.
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