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#714564 - 11/10/17 11:18 pm 67 Tr6c cam timing markd  
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 180
Mori55 Online content
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Mori55  Online Content
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 180
NJ USA
Tell me if this looks right. looked at the manual and it said on the use the long dash. As you can see there both the same. I’m assuming this is correct. Rather be safe than sorry
https://flic.kr/p/DftetY

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#714601 - 11/11/17 9:13 am Re: 67 Tr6c cam timing markd [Re: Mori55]  
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 208
TR7RVMan Offline
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TR7RVMan  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 208
Pleasant Hill, California USA
Hi Mori, That is correct for your motor.

Interesting how the gears can have such different markings. The '69 bonnie I'm doing has a short dash & dot above it.

Once the crank nut is on you often can't see mark on crank gear. However it is always TDC. Pull rods up hard so motor goes to TDC & that tooth is up. One tooth off & rods will be obviously not at TDC if you pull on them.

Sometimes the idler gear shaft can migrate out after heating case for bearing install. I ran into that this time. I noticed it when I trial fit the timing cover. It didn't want to mate up tightly. I suppose the cover screws could drawn it in, but I didn't want to chance having cover in a bind. I was able to gently tap shaft inwards with a plastic hammer. In my case the shaft was a fairly tight fit in the case. Some you can just push in.

Are you running points? If so water ingress must be avoided. Even with EI you need to keep water out. There is a rubber sleeve that goes into timing cover hole that seals wire. It's not just a piece of vacuum hose. It's a tapered rubber bushing that squeezes down tight on wire jacket when you push it in. #70-4707. The ones Raber's sells fits good. As far as I know the factory placed it in the timing cover pushed in from the outside. Some also use one on the engine case as well, pushed in from the left side. From new my bike only had the one. In any case most important to seal the wire. Rain ride will force water into points cavity & cause motor to die with points & cause corrosion in any case.
Don


1973 Tiger 750
#714623 - 11/11/17 3:16 pm Re: 67 Tr6c cam timing markd [Re: Mori55]  
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 180
Mori55 Online content
BritBike Forum member
Mori55  Online Content
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 180
NJ USA
I have the AC ignition. I wish I didn’t but I’m stuck with it. I have the AC stator such is new, remagnitized rotor. I did upgrade to the 6ca points plate. And have condensers by the new coils. It is a pain to set but my next problem is the head.
I had new valve guide installed and vacuum tested. I did not have the head shaved he said it was fine.
The last time before this complete rebuild I redid the top end. New cylinders pistons , rings. I also took the tappet blocks out and redid them and had the followers reground. After all that it ran terrible. It seems to be leaking oil around the head it didn’t seem to be leaking around the pushrod seals. When I removed the head I saw oil in the cylinders. I pulled the cylinder and checked the rings gap and all. Rings looked good and cylinder was fine. Only had a couple minutes running. I used the thin push rod seals but after checking again the squish gap was over 45 thousands. As far as I can tell the head was never off before. It had low miles originally.
So after splitting the cases I’m still worried about the head. Everything on the bike is original no mixed up parts from other bikes. I know the original owner and it sat in his garage since 1980 only had 7800 miles on it.
One other thing , how much of the engine do you put together before putting back in the frame ?

#714625 - 11/11/17 3:39 pm Re: 67 Tr6c cam timing markd [Re: Mori55]  
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,883
kommando Online content
kommando  Online Content


Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,883
Scotland
Quote
I did not have the head shaved he said it was fine.


And if you find out the head is now bent then do not get it shaved but get it bent back to being flat. The head is too easy to bend as it is without making the head even thinner and you also end up with bent rocker-box gasket surfaces.

#714682 - 11/11/17 10:46 pm Re: 67 Tr6c cam timing markd [Re: Mori55]  
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 180
Mori55 Online content
BritBike Forum member
Mori55  Online Content
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 180
NJ USA
I have no idea how the head would of gotten bent. All the pr tubes were in I could see them looking in the head. Only thing I changed out was a tappet block because I broke the ears on the original. I even checked the tappet block with a caliper. I checked the head with a straight edge in all directions with feeler guages and it seems fine.

Last edited by Mori55; 11/11/17 10:53 pm.
#714704 - 11/12/17 1:39 am Re: 67 Tr6c cam timing markd [Re: Mori55]  
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 208
TR7RVMan Offline
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TR7RVMan  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 208
Pleasant Hill, California USA
Hi Mori, If head shows flat with straight edge it's flat. You're good.

Regarding your points & ignition system, that system works good. With practice setting points & timing is very easy. The 6CA plate makes it extra easy. Static timing done properly will be within a half degree of perfect. Well close enough for perfect running. We'll cross that bridge when we get there. Properly serviced points are extremely reliable. Proper service is not hard or time consuming.

My Tiger Cub has the energy transfer ignition & it starts easy & runs good. It has AC lighting & no battery. The lights are very dim at idle, that sucks. I started restoring cub some years ago & it still sits unfinished. I hope to get to it in 2019, seriously.

Make sure you have "keepers" on your rotor or store it inside the stator. This protects the magnetism. Left to stand alone the magnets will loose power. Many rotors get weak due to this. Of course they can loose from old age too, but no keepers is very hard on them.

Remember the PRT on the early bikes is different from wedding band bikes. So make sure you do PRT seals for your style motor.

Regarding motor install that's hard for me in any case. The motor is about 130#. Feels like 500 when your lifting it. No good place to grab it either. The pre 1970 frames are the worst in my mind. 1970 had the removable plates & OIF has the spacers to give some wiggle room.

I find it very easy to gouge front motor mount area on engine. Tape up the casting well in this area. The frame tabs are not so easy to line up on the front. I also think follow shop manual & removing nuts, studs from lower rear frame is worth while.

The trans is fairly heavy. The clutch/primary drive is very heavy. The cyl. is heavy.

This go round on the '69 Bonnie I'm doing it different. I have motor stand so I decided to install cyl. on stand since it's much easier in my mind (at this time). I installed trans & outer cover since it was easy on stand.

Leaving head & primary drive off. Still rather heavy.

One reason I did trans before install is shift fork rod end is open on left end. This was a source of leakage. I wanted to seal over the end with silicon after trans was assembled. Very hard to access this area so I wanted to seal it with motor out. I turned motor on end to do this. Easy while on engine stand.

Made lifting handle. I took a piece of angle iron 20" long drilled it such I can place old head gasket on cyl. Then bolt angle iron handle to rear outside head bolts. Idea is to use as lifting handle to ease motor in.

Then taking some long bolts & installing on rear motor mounts where side plates bolt. These will be rear lifting handles, but main weight is held by angle iron.

I don't know if any of this will work yet. But 2 old farts just grabbing motor is too hard. I needed to find a better way. I have a chain hoist for pulling car motors, but no good way to attach to Triumph motor. A tiny cherry picker might work??

The head bolts are not all that easy to install with bike in frame sometimes either. But if motor is not fully bolted you can cant it over slightly which helps.

I'll let you know how it all works out in a few weeks with photos. That is photos if it works good....
Don


1973 Tiger 750
#714712 - 11/12/17 4:00 am Re: 67 Tr6c cam timing markd [Re: Mori55]  
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 180
Mori55 Online content
BritBike Forum member
Mori55  Online Content
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 180
NJ USA
I also made a stand , sure makes it easy to work on. I have a hydraulic Bike table but I really not climbing around the bike when I can do it on the table.
I notice before I did the test down and used a degree wheel and set the timing I could really get spark. I found if I moved the points plate a little there was a small window of were I could see the plugs sparking.
I have the thinnest prt seals top and bottom. I can’t figure it out.
Here my stand I made.
https://flic.kr/p/Di2F7q

Last edited by Mori55; 11/16/17 2:31 am.

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