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Loctite 518 #714321
11/08/17 11:11 pm
11/08/17 11:11 pm
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NJ USA
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Mori55 Offline OP
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I’m about ready to seal my engine cases on my 67 Tr6.
I have Loctite 518 , my question is how much do I put on ? Also has anyone have experience with how it holds up ?
I was looking at yamabond threebond , Honda Bond but I really don’t want wait a week to get it since it’s not available locally.

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Re: Loctite 518 [Re: Mori55] #714342
11/09/17 2:10 am
11/09/17 2:10 am
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Frazier Park, CA
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Chris Johnson Online content
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Permatex makes ‘motoseal’ that can be had off the shelf at larger chain auto parts stores. Same stuff as the various “bond” sealers, to add another option to your list.

It doesn’t take a bunch of product... you’ll end up with a metal to metal contact, with the sealant making up for any minute irregularities. It will ooze out on both sides; the goal is to not get tons of ooze in the inside. Outside will wipe clean with a rag wetted by acetone or brake clean before it sets.

Chris

Re: Loctite 518 [Re: Mori55] #714348
11/09/17 6:55 am
11/09/17 6:55 am
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Pleasant Hill, California USA
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TR7RVMan Offline
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Hi Mori, Did the photos come through ok I emailed to you on how I put on the 518?

It can be put on in a 1.5mm bead or screen printed on. For Triumph I used screen printing method using an acid brush from ace hardware. A thin coat on 1 side of case only.

I like to put it on the left case only. Then set right case on & bolt it starting with the 2 "screws" in the cyl. base, then outside the base as specified in work shop manual. Using a rubber or plastic hammer tap case to level cly. base surface close as possible. The dowels are not perfect so that needs to be checked.

The lip on the left case tends to reduce squeeze out inside the motor. You can wipe squeeze out from the upper inner surface easily.

The beauty of the 518 or 515 type products is any squeeze out of sealant will dissolve in oil & not block any small oil passages. Also since 518 & 515 only harden in absence of air you don't need to rush application. You can take your time & apply neatly & evenly. If you make mistake, simply wipe off & go again.

Be ready with all case bolts. Once you place right case on, 518 starts curing rather quickly. Not too quick, but don't dally on assembly.

All of the "silicon" type sealants have the risk of squeeze out sluffing off into the oil & clogging passages or the oil pump. Even years later little bits can break off. I've seen this many times.

The '69 Bonnie had prior been assembled with red silicon. Little bits of silicon could be found in many places. Exhaust tappet feed was one of them.

Loctite 515 is similar to 518, but is much much stronger in the bond. Can be very hard to separate cases once cured. It does not leak. 515 is less forgiving of sticking to an oily surface. 518 will stick at least somewhat decent to an oily surface, but perfectly clean & dry is preferred. John's brother has been around 518 for some time in piston aircraft engine repair & 518 has proven durable & leak free.

Many manufactures use silicon due to it is cost effective, will seal non machined surfaces well & if applied to clean dry surface is very leak free. Bits of silicon in the oil has been an issue though. At Mercedes Benz there was so much problems with silicon blocking oil passages they have a week long class to train technicians on how to use it correctly.

Silicon on gaskets is a risky plan as it can allow gasket to "migrate" out. The gasket can split & slip out as the silicon does not glue it in place sufficiently. I've seen this many times. 3 Bond doesn't seem so bad on gaskets as it tends to harden after some days. 515 cures & holds gaskets & seals in place quite well. I have not used 518 on gaskets so I don't know what it will do. I've done a few experiments & it seems to hold ok, but not like 515.

515 used to install a seal where the hole is rough or damaged seems to work well, but the loctie acts as a lubricant & seal may want to pop out until sealant cures. In this case you must have some sort of way to hold seal in place like a large flat washer & bolt or something. Usually not a problem though.

Don



1973 Tiger 750
Re: Loctite 518 [Re: Mori55] #714349
11/09/17 7:00 am
11/09/17 7:00 am
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Pleasant Hill, California USA
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TR7RVMan Offline
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Use 518 on timing cover also. Same thing, just one side. I like engine side as you can just brush it on around dowels. The bristles of the acid brush act rather like an adhesive trowel with the grooves. It leaves tiny ridges in sealant. Smearing with finger will almost always leave too much or too little. Usually too much with most people.

This way when you place cover on no chance of sealant getting scraped into the oil passages.
Don


1973 Tiger 750
Re: Loctite 518 [Re: Mori55] #714350
11/09/17 7:03 am
11/09/17 7:03 am
Joined: Sep 2011
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New Zealand
Excalibur Online content
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It comes down to experience. The correct application is such that a small amount squeezes out when the halves are bolted up.
Start by de-burring the mating surfaces then degreasing with thinners or brakeclean. Apply a thin coat to both surfaces. Once bolted up look for some squeezing out indicating sufficient sealer was applied. Clean off excess with a dry rag,

Re: Loctite 518 [Re: TR7RVMan] #714351
11/09/17 7:10 am
11/09/17 7:10 am
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+1 for Dons' description about avoiding silicon sealer.

Re: Loctite 518 [Re: TR7RVMan] #714367
11/09/17 11:48 am
11/09/17 11:48 am
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NJ USA
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Mori55 Offline OP
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Unfortunately I can’t access the photos you sent me. They were there now gone.

Last edited by Mori55; 11/09/17 10:51 pm.
Re: Loctite 518 [Re: Mori55] #714449
11/10/17 3:23 am
11/10/17 3:23 am
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Pleasant Hill, California USA
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TR7RVMan Offline
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Hi Mori, I'll re send them tomorrow. In the mean time go to RAT site & see the post I just did about using the new ring compressor. The things worked really good. There is info & photos of the cyl. base gasket also.
Don


1973 Tiger 750
Re: Loctite 518 [Re: Mori55] #714451
11/10/17 4:03 am
11/10/17 4:03 am
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Mori55 Offline OP
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Well it’s together. Didn’t work out bad. I got them together then put the bolts in and snugged up with a Milwaukee electric ratchet then torqued them. Just a very little squished out not even a 1/8”. I used the little brush and painted it and dabbed too. I also put a little smear on the other case half around the flang. Only thing worried me is how long I had to work with once the cases were together. Of course that’s when you drop a bolt or can’t remebrr we’re you just put a wrench. I spend more time looking for stuff that I just put down.

Re: Loctite 518 [Re: Mori55] #714464
11/10/17 7:11 am
11/10/17 7:11 am
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518 is anaerobic so it will not harden until the parts are together, unlike Trebond/Yamabond/Silicone/et cetera. It should sit at least a day before putting into service. Wipe off any that squeezed out as it will not harden anyway. You only need enough to fill any gaps (to 0.015"), so fairly thin.

Re: Loctite 518 [Re: Mori55] #714468
11/10/17 7:56 am
11/10/17 7:56 am
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It's true. If you've pasted up the gasket faces ready to assemble there's no need to worry if the phone rings or someone at the door. The Loctite will wait. It's only once it gets deprived of oxygen does it begin to cure. I've found adequate cure time to be relatively quick though I accept max strength is overnight. Often I've fitted primary, trans or timing covers and been riding within an hour or so.

Re: Loctite 518 [Re: Mori55] #714472
11/10/17 8:56 am
11/10/17 8:56 am
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That is the main difference between 515 and 518, the latter 'goes off much quicker, you probably have the best part of 24 hours with 515.

My own thoughts as far as joints being oil tight is, the two surfaces need to be checked for face condition, neither of those products could be regarded as a filler, I think on a crank case main joint it can be worth the time to fill any divots with the likes of Devcon or similar and then dress that fill to get a good surface to seal. ( I think most folk have come across parts that have been attacked with screwdrivers or who knows what as far as gasket removal)
The mastic type sealers might be better in that regard.
Suzuki Bond is a silicone type sealer that is good but obviously needs to be used sparingly, Suzuki moly paste is also good for the likes of gears and high load items (camshaft lobes, followers, valve adjusters) that product is a high build and stays put unlike the usual moly lubes for other assemblies (bearings etc)

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Re: Loctite 518 [Re: Mori55] #714510
11/10/17 4:31 pm
11/10/17 4:31 pm
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Lancaster, California
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three-bond


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