Hi, took my lads bike for a spin today. First time on the road in 10 or so years. He bought it not running. It runs very good. The gear box is easy and smooth on up changing however on down changing is is smooth and easy but when moving from third to second it goes into neutral and the next down shift is 1st. It misses 2nd all together. Tried it a few time and does it every time. 2nd is good going up the gears, no issues at all. Only going down. Thought I would put it on here just in case someone has had this happen to them. Your information can be very helpful before I pull the cover off.
First, I would pull the plunger pin under the gearbox and put in a rod with the same tip shape as the plunger. Hold it up against the camplate with your finger and have someone shift the gearbox up then down and see if the camplate is over shifting or if the indent feels different. It does not seem likely the driver block is moving the camplate further just for the 3-2 downshift.
Hi and sorry it has taken some time to get back. My time was taken as I received my new sprag clutch gear. improved gears and shafts for my T140es so I just finished putting it back together. I have had no experience with the electric start (didn't work when I got the bike) other than reading forums and thinking I will never use it just in case. But what I will say is it works absolutely perfectly. I haven't kick started my bike since. Cold or hot it just starts up straightaway with no issues whatsoever. If you can tell I'm pretty happy about it, I am. (for now)
Back to my lads issue. I did as stated with a rod and all seemed good. I remembered my daughter gave me an endoscope quite a white back so I had a good look with the camera and the gear selector cam plate looked ok with no abnormal signs of wear. The tip of the camplate index plunger look ok and the spring measured the correct free length. As this bike had not been used in such a long time I think I will remove the outer cover and give the gearchange quadrant and its plungers, springs a good clean and inspection before I think about pulling out the internals.
[quote=John Walker]Hi and sorry it has taken some time to get back. My time was taken as I received my new sprag clutch gear. improved gears and shafts for my T140es so I just finished putting it back together. I have had no experience with the electric start (didn't work when I got the bike) other than reading forums and thinking I will never use it just in case. But what I will say is it works absolutely perfectly. I haven't kick started my bike since. Cold or hot it just starts up straightaway with no issues whatsoever. If you can tell I'm pretty happy about it, I am. (for now)
A word for the wise John, if you are going to use the electric boot with a cold engine you should retard the timing at least 4 degrees to minimise kick back otherwise use the kick starter when cold then the electric once the bike is warm, one good kick back & the spragg is shagged.
Thanks for the advise jack. I will start using the kick from now on on the first start. Just got carried away at how quick and easy it starts. In all the time I have been starting my bike with the kick it has never backfired. Not to say it won't.
Any advise on my lads gearbox before I take off the outer cover?
As it has not run for quite a few years the springs and plungers on the gear change quadrant should be closely examined. They may be somewhat rusty as they receive no direct lubrication. For what they cost if you are having gear change problems I would replace all the springs as a matter of course. Probably still the originals and after 40+ years replacements are probably overdue. Just my two centsworth. HTH
Hi and thanks for the replies. I have had a good look at the bottom of the cam plate with an endoscope and it looks good. The cam plate plunger look ok as I can just still see the machining marks on the tip so no wear there. The spring measures the original length as in the manual and operates smoothly.
On the changes I am just pressing the lever not using heavy/harsh pressure.
For the minimal cost I think I will as suggested replace the springs and have a good look at the plungers. Easier to do that than get the box out especially after already completely cleaning and replacing all seals etc in the primary. But if all fails out she comes.
I will order the parts today and once received I will let you know if any change.
Hi, got the new bit the other day and have fitted 4 x springs and 2 x quadrant plungers. The old ones were a tad worn and one spring was quite corroded. The result was a 90% improvement. However the 3rd to 2nd change was still going thru to neutral if you hit the lever harder than a slight push. I then tried the spacer under the index plunger spring and improved by another 5%. It does seem as if the cam plate has a worn spot in it because you can move from 3rd to 2nd and it hits neutral for 2 seconds then slips into 2nd. End result is the gearbox will be removed when time permits. Thanks for you info.
I have been away for years. When my Bonnie had a battery lead release from its crimp and cook the ground, it just got put in the back of the garage while i rode the Duke. Now after a long rest my Bonnie is back with a nos harness, rings & hone. Running sweet as ever! I sold the Duke last year. My 78 T140V has always given me the same gearbox symptoms as described here. Ive always attributed them to a quirk of the machine. My mileage is under 17K (believed correct) Ive learned to minimize this with technique and no hurried downshifts.It has not gotten any worse since I purchased around 1990.When I hit that intermittent neutral, I pull in the clutch, go back up and take it from there.