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B33 1949 #713451
11/01/17 7:34 am
11/01/17 7:34 am
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 3
Norfolk
T
tilfordtel Offline OP
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tilfordtel  Offline OP
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T

Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 3
Norfolk
Hi Guys

I'm new to the forum. I have a B33 from 1949 and have just given it a Brightspark condensectomy. That was no problem but I'm getting confused setting the timing. I has a M01 mag dyno and I have various instructions that cable loose is full advance or looking at the points with the cable entering from the right its cable tight. Can anyone help me please. Ever since I bought it the advance retard has never been of any use even in starting. Just made it not run never better. Also anyone know how to post a pic from an iPad? - Thanks for any help guys, Terry


Tilfordtel
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Re: B33 1949 [Re: tilfordtel] #713459
11/01/17 12:02 pm
11/01/17 12:02 pm
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 48
Canterbury, New Zealand
B
BevanC Offline
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BevanC  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 48
Canterbury, New Zealand
Hi Terry,
I am reasonably new to old bikes, but here is what I do with my bike; hopefully you might be able to compare things to yours:

The MO1L magneto on my Panther has the advance retard cable entering from the right hand side, when viewed from the points. When I turn the engine over, the points rotate clockwise. When I tighten the cable, it rotates the face cam anticlockwise (i.e. opposite direction to the points rotation), causing the points to open earlier than when the wire is slack; thus it a tight wire advance magneto.

With the Panther, and I imagine all bikes with these magnetos, there are two ways to set the timing (obviously, I set the points gap, of 12 thou, beforehand) -

1/ With the cable tight, so the lever is in the full advance position, have the points just opening at a specified angle before tdc (for my Panther it is 33 degrees), or when the piston is a specified distance before tdc (11 mm for my Panther).

2/ With the cable loose, so the timing is fully retarded, have the points just opening when the piston is at tdc. This is easier, but it does allow the possibility of over-advancing the timing, which can have disastrous consequences.

I use the 1st method.

I hope this might be of use to you; obviously you'd need to determine the appropriate degrees or distance before tdc for your bike. BSA Service sheet #604 says 7/16 ths btdc but 3/8 ths for models with engine prefix GB.
Sheet can be found here: https://www.bsa-oc.com/wp-content/uploads/bsk-pdf-manager/95_SECTIONM_BSASERVICESHEETNO604.PDF

Cheers,
Bevan

Last edited by BevanC; 11/01/17 12:13 pm.
Re: B33 1949 [Re: BevanC] #713482
11/01/17 5:49 pm
11/01/17 5:49 pm
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 3
Norfolk
T
tilfordtel Offline OP
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tilfordtel  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
T

Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 3
Norfolk
That is perfect, thank you for your wisdom!


Tilfordtel
Re: B33 1949 [Re: tilfordtel] #713490
11/01/17 6:49 pm
11/01/17 6:49 pm
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 48
Canterbury, New Zealand
B
BevanC Offline
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BevanC  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 48
Canterbury, New Zealand
No problem smile

I meant to add that I start both my magneto powered bikes with the advance\retard lever knocked back from full advance by about 1/3 of its travel - works for me, but I guess every bike will be a bit different.

Best of luck with getting it going; would be useful to hear how you get on - all adds to the learning.

Cheers,
Bevan

Re: B33 1949 [Re: BevanC] #713695
11/03/17 6:26 am
11/03/17 6:26 am
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 3
Norfolk
T
tilfordtel Offline OP
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tilfordtel  Offline OP
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T

Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 3
Norfolk
Yep, started and advance retard seems to work ok cheers.


Tilfordtel
Re: B33 1949 [Re: tilfordtel] #713699
11/03/17 7:37 am
11/03/17 7:37 am
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 48
Canterbury, New Zealand
B
BevanC Offline
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BevanC  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 48
Canterbury, New Zealand
That's great news smile.

Happy riding !
Cheers,
Bevan


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